Derleme
BibTex RIS Kaynak Göster

ANTI-AGING COSMETICS APPROACHES AND COMPONENTS IN PRODUCTS

Yıl 2016, Cilt: 5 Sayı: 2, 99 - 109, 31.08.2016

Öz


Skin aging is a complex biological process influenced by intrinsic or extrinsic factors or combination of these factors. Emerging technologies and ingredients based on new generation cosmetic products offers alternatives rather than basic cosmetic care. Developments including cosmetic active ingredients produced by using advanced technology, increase in the use of natural raw materials and using pharmaceutical carrier systems in cosmetic formulations have been generate to meet societies advanced cosmetic expectations. In this review, current cosmetic product-oriented solutions of individual external and internal factors were investigated with increased skin aging, especially in terms of components and systems can take place is specified. And also different ant-aging strategies are summarized.


Kaynakça

  • 1. Draleos ZD. Cosmetics, categories, and the future. Dermatologic Therapy. 2012; 25: 223–228.
  • 2. Schneider G, Gohla S, Schreiber J, Kaden W, Schönrock U, Schmidt-Lewerkühne H, Kuschel A, Petsitis X, Pape W, Ippen H, Diembeck W. Skin Cosmetics. In: Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. Weinheim: Wiley-VCH, 2005; p. 24-219.
  • 3. Kışlalıoğlu S. Kozmetoloji Bilimi. In: Yazan Y, ed. Kozmetik Bilimi. İstanbul: Nobel Tıp Kitabevi; 2004; p. 3-9.
  • 4. Kaymak Y, Tırnaksız F. Kozmetik ürünlere bağlı istenmeyen etkiler. Dermatose. 2007; 6(1):39-48.
  • 5. Hekimoğlu S. Deri yaşlanmasına karşı 21. yüzyilin gerçeği: Kozmesötikler. Türkiye Klinikleri J Cosmetol. 1998; 1(1):37-42.
  • 6. Tırnaksız F. Kozmetik ürünlerde kozmesötik olarak antioksidanların, peptit ve proteinlerin kullanımı ve önemi. Türkiye Klinikleri J Int Med Sci. 2006; 2(17):6-18.
  • 7. Tarımcı N. Kozmetik ürün formülasyonlarında yeni alternatifler: Kozmesötik maddeler. Türkiye Klinikleri J Int Med Sci. 2006; 2(17):1-5.
  • 8. Yazan Y. Cilt yaşlanması karşıtı dermakozmetik ürünlerde gelecek jenerasyon. Türkiye Klinikleri J Med Sci. 2008;28:182-185.
  • 9. Özer Ö. Yüz bakımında kullanılan yaşlanma karşıtı kozmesötikler. Türkiye Klinikleri J Med Sci. 2009;29(5):40-43.
  • 10. Chasteen AL, Bashir NY, Gallucci C, Visekruna A. Age and antiaging technique influence reactions to age concealment. J Gerontol B Psychol Sci Soc Sci. 2011; 66:719-724.
  • 11. Grossman R. The role of dimethylaminoethanol in cosmetic dermatology. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(1):39-47.
  • 12. Cevenini E, Invidia L, Lescai F, Salvioli S, Tieri P, Castellani G, et al. Human models of aging and longevity. Expert Opin Biol Ther 2008; 8:1393-405.
  • 13. Contet-Audonneau JL, Jeanmaire C, Pauly G. A histological study of human wrinkle structures: comparison between sun-exposed areas of the face, with or without wrinkles, and sun-protected areas. Br J Dermatol 1999; 140:1038-47.
  • 14. Shuster S, Black MM, McVitie E. The influence of age and sex on skin thickness, skin collagen and density. Br J Dermatol 1975; 93:639-43.
  • 15. Bernstein EF, Underhill CB, Hahn PJ, Brown DB, Uitto J. Chronic sun exposure alters both the content and distribution of dermal glycosaminoglycans. Br J Dermatol 1996; 135:255-62.
  • 16. Elsner P, Maibach HI. Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs versus Cosmetics (2nd edn). Marcel Dekker: New York, 2005.
  • 17. Baumann L. Skin ageing and its treatment. J Pathol 2007; 211:241-51.
  • 18. Trelles MA. Phototherapy in anti-aging and its photobiologic basics: a new approach to skin rejuvenation. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2006;5(1):87-91.
  • 19. Merinville E. Original Contribution: Three clinical studies showing the anti-aging benefits of sodium salicylate in human skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2010;9:174–184.
  • 20. Prahl S, Kueper T, Biernoth T, Wöhrmann Y, Münster A, Fürstenau M, Schmidt M, Schulze C, Wittern KP, Wenck H, Muhr GM, Blatt T. Aging skin is functionally anaerobic: importance of coenzyme Q10 for anti-aging skin care. Biofactors. 2008;32(1-4):245-255.
  • 21. Lademann J, Meinke MC, Sterry W, Darvin ME. Carotenoids in human skin. Exp Dermatol. 2011;20(5):377–382.
  • 22. Zussman J, Ahdout J, Kim J. Vitamins and photoaging: do scientific data support their use? J Am Acad Dermatol. 2010;63(3):507-525.
  • 23. Yenilmez E, Yazan Y. Release of Vitamin E from different topical colloidal delivery systems and their ın vitro-ın vivo evaluation. Turk J Pharm Sci. 2010;7(2):167-188.
  • 24. Kerscher M. Aesthetic and cosmetic dermatology. Eur J Dermatol. 2009;19(5):530-537.
  • 25. Yenilmez E, Yazan Y. Release of Vitamin E from different topical colloidal delivery systems and their ın vitro-ın vivo evaluation. Turk J Pharm Sci. 2010;7(2):167-188.
  • 26. Tabata N, O’Goshi K, Zhen YX, Kligman AM, Tagami H. Biophysical assessment of persistent effects of moisturizers after their daily applications: evaluation of corneotherapy. Dermatology 2000; 200:308-13.
  • 27. Lübbe J. Evidence-based corneotherapy. Dermatology 2000; 200:285-9.
  • 28. Ganceviciene R., Liakou A., Theodoridis A., Makrantonaki E. And Zouboulis C.C., Skin anti-aging strategies, Dermato-Endocrinology 2012; 4:3, 308-319.
  • 29. Trautinger F. Mechanisms of photodamage of the skin and its functional consequences for skin ageing. Clin Exp Dermatol 2001; 26:573-7.
  • 30. Berger MM. Can oxidative damage be treated nutritionally? Clin Nutr 2005; 24:172-83.
  • 31. Marini A. Beauty from the inside. Does it really work?. Hautarzt 2011; 62:614-7.
  • 32. Fusco D, Colloca G, Lo Monaco MR, Cesari M. Effects of antioxidant supplementation on the aging process. Clin Interv Aging 2007; 2:377-87.
  • 33. Terada A, Yoshida M, Seko Y, Kobayashi T, Yoshida K, Nakada M, et al. Active oxygen species generation and cellular damage by additives of parenteral preparations: selenium and sulfhydryl compounds. Nutrition 1999; 15:651-5.
  • 34. Vedamurthy M. Antiaging therapies. Indian Journal of Dermatology Venereology Leprology. 2006;72(3):183-186.
  • 35. Kim H, Kim M, Quan Y, Moon T, Mun J, Cho H, Park N, Moon W, Lee K, Kim H, Lee J, Ryoo H, Jung H. Novel anti-wrinkle effect of cosmeceutical product with new retinyl retinoate microsphere using biodegradable polymer. Skin Res Technol. 2012;18(1):70–76.
  • 36. Cernasov D. The design and development of anti-aging formulations. In: Dayan N, ed. Skin Aging Handbook. NY, USA: William Andrew Inc.; 2008. p. 291–325.
  • 37. Bissett DL, Miyamoto K, Sun P, Li J, Berge CA. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci 2004; 26:231-8.
  • 38. Kerscher M, Buntrock H. Anti-aging creams. What really helps?. Hautarzt 2011; 62:607-13.
  • 39. Murray JC, Burch JA, Streilein RD, Iannacchione MA, Hall RP, Pinnell SR. A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid provides protection for human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation. J Am Acad Dermatol 2008; 59:418-25.
  • 40. Draelos ZD. The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. J Cosmet Dermatol 2007; 6:2-6.
  • 41. Haftek M, Mac-Mary S, Le Bitoux MA, Creidi P, Seité S, Rougier A, et al. Clinical, biometric and structural evaluation of the long-term effects of a topical treatment with ascorbic acid and madecassoside in photoaged human skin. Exp Dermatol 2008; 17:946-52.
  • 42. Zhai H, Behnam S, Villarama CD, Arens-Corell M, Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Evaluation of the antioxidant capacity and preventive effects of a topical emulsion and its vehicle control on the skin response to UV exposure. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2005; 18:288-93.
  • 43. Chiu A, Kimball AB. Topical vitamins, minerals and botanical ingredients as modulators of environmental and chronological skin damage. 2003; 149: 681-9.
  • 44. http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/cosmetics/cosing/
  • 45. Ohshima H, Tada A, Kanamaru A, Akamatsu H, Sakai Y, Itoh M, Kanto H. Relevance of the directionality of skin elasticity to aging and sagging of the face. Skin ResTechnol. 2011;17(1):101–107.
  • 46. Darlenski R, Surber C, Fluhr JW. Topical retinoids in the management of photodamaged skin: from theory to evidence-based practical approach. Br J Dermatol. 2010;163:1157–1165.
  • 47. Gunin AG, Kornilova NK, Vasilieva OV, Petrov VV. Age-related changes in proliferation the numbers of mast cells. eosinophils, and cd45-positive cells in human dermis. J Gerontol A Biol Sci Med Sci. 2011;4:385–392.
  • 48. Rona C, Vailati F, Berardesca E. The cosmetic treatment of wrinkles. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004;3(1):26-34.
  • 49. Kafi R, Kwak HS, Schumacher WE, Cho S, Hanft VN, Hamilton TA, et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol 2007; 143:606-12.
  • 50. Varani J, Warner RL, Gharaee-Kermani M, Phan SH, Kang S, Chung JH, et al. Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. J Invest Dermatol 2000; 114:480-6.
  • 51. Campos PM, de Camargo Júnior FB, de Andrade JP, Gaspar LR. Efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, alpha-lipoic acid and kinetin. Photochem Photobiol. 2012;88:748–752.
  • 52. The Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products Intended For Consumers. Consumer safety of alpha-hydroxy acids. SCCNFP/0799/04.2004.
  • 53. Pena Ferreira MR, Costa PC, Bahia FM. Efficacy of anti-wrinkle products in skin surface appearance: a comparative study using non-invasive methods. Skin Res Technol. 2010;16:444–449.
  • 54. Martín PI, Sánchez PA, Rewald E. Microparticles and the hygiene hypothesis. Ann N Y Acad Sci. 2009;1173:409–421.
  • 55. Watson RE, Ogden S, Cotterell LF, Bowden JJ, Bastrilles JY, Long SP, Griffiths CE. Effects of a cosmetic 'anti-ageing' product improves photoaged skin. Br J Dermatol. 2009;161(2):419–426.
  • 56. G Gillis, M Bishop, S Norton. ActiMatrix TM: Mushroom derived peptide exhibiting firming capabilities. Cos Sci Tech 2006;49-55.
  • 57. Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G, Gil A, Fernández-Ballester G, Ponsati B, Gutierrez L, Pérez-Payá E, Ferrer-Montiel A. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int J Cosmetic Sci. 2002;24:303-310.
  • 58. Elmets CA, Singh D, Tubesing K, Matsui M, Katiyar S, Mukhtar H. Cutaneous photoprotection from ultraviolet injury by green tea polyphenols. J Am Acad Dermatol 2001; 44:425-32.
  • 59. Pinsky MA. Materials and methods for delivering antioxidants into the skin. Patent 2010; US 20100098752 A1.
  • 60. Lupo MP, Cole AL. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Ther 2007; 20:343-9.
  • 61. Öztürkcan, S., Kayhan, T.Ç. Deri Yaşlanmasına Karşı Medikal Önlemler, Dermatoz 2010; 1(2): 77-82.
  • 62. Rougier,A., Seite,S.,. Clinical efficacyof topically apllied Vitamin C associated with madecassoside on skin aging. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 2007; 56: AB 28.
  • 63. Algın Yapar E, İnal Ö, Erdal MS. Design and in vivo evaluation of emulgel formulations including green tea extract and rose oil. Acta Pharm. 2013;63(4):531-543.
  • 64. Wang KH, Lin RD, Hsu FL Huang YH, Chang HC, Huang CY, Lee MH. Cosmetic applications of selected traditional Chinese herbal medicines. J Ethnopharmacol. 2006;106:353–359.
  • 65. Brandy JJ, Baochuan L, Jason EB. Genus vaccinium: medicine, cosmetics, and coatings. Recent Patents on Biotechnology. 2010; 4(2):112-124.
  • 66. Baxter RA. Anti-aging properties of resveratrol: review and report of a potent new antioxidant skin care formulation. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008;7(1):2-7.
  • 67. Callaghan TM, Wilhelm KP. A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part I: Cellular and molecular perspectives of skin ageing. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008;30:323-332.
  • 68. Ono, Y., Hattori, E., Fukaya, Y., Imai, S., Ohizumi, Y. Anti-obesity effect of Nelumbo nucifera leaves extract in mice and rats. Journal of Etnopharmacology 2006; 106: 238-244.
  • 69. Sohn, D.H., Kim, Y.C., Oh, S.H., Park, E.J., Li, X., Lee, B.H. Hepatoprotective and free radical scavenging effects of Nelumbo nucifera. Phytomedicine 2003; 10: 165-169.
  • 70. Rai, S., Wahile, A., Mukherjee, K., Saha, B.P., Mukherjee, P.K. Antioxidant activity of Nelumbo nucifera (sacred lotus) seeds. Journal of Etnopharmacology 2006; 104: 322-327.
  • 71. Wu, W.B., Chiang, H.S., Fang ,J.Y., Chen, S.K., Huang, C.C., Hung, C.F. (+)-Catechin prevents ultraviolet B-induced human keratinocyte death via inhibition of JNK phosphorylation. Life Sciences 2006; 79: 801-807.
  • 72. Psotova, J., Svobodova, A., Kolarova, H., Walterova, D. Photoprotective properties of Prunella vulgaris and rosmarinic acid on human keratinocytes. Journal of Phytochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology 2006; 84: 167-174.
  • 73. Casagrande, R., Georgetti, S.R., Verri Jr.W.A., Dorta, D.J., Santos, C.A., Fonseca, M.J.V. Protective effect of topical formulations containing quercetin against UVB-induced oxidative stres in hairless mice. Journal of Phytochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology 2006; 84: 21-27.
  • 74. Yetkin H., Ceylan, A.M., Yıldırım, M. Deri yaşlanması ve tedavisi, S.D.Ü. Tıp Fak. Derg. 2009; 16(2)/ 32-38.
  • 75. Türsen, Ü. Deri yaşlanmasının Topikal Ajanlarla Önlenmesi, Dermatose, 2006/4, 267-283.
  • 76. http://www.cobiosa.com/producto_ficha.php?id=en&prod=42 (son erişim tarihi:21.03.2016).
  • 77. Epstein, H. Cosmeceutical vehicles. Clin Dermatol. 2009;27(5):453-460.
  • 78. Amer M, Maged M. Cosmeceuticals versus pharmaceuticals. Clin Dermatol. 2009;27(5):428-430.
  • 79. Gao XH, Zhang L, Wei H, Chen HD. Efficacy and safety of innovative cosmeceuticals. Clin Dermatol. 2008;26(4):367-374.
  • 80. Li D, Wu Z, Martini N, Wen J. Advanced carrier systems in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals: a review. J Cosmet Sci. 2011;62(6):549-563.
  • 81. Bergişadi N, Erdem O, Çadırcı E, Alğın Yapar E, Aktaş Y, Erdal MS, Demirel Özel A. Kozmetik Bileşenlerinin Güvenlilik Değerlendirmesinin Avrupa Düzeyinde Yürütülen Kritik Analizi. In: Kadıoğlu Y, ed. Avrupa`da Kozmetiklerin Güvenlilik Değerlendirmesi. İstanbul: Cosming.Com Yayınları; 2014. p. 64-109.
  • 82. Alğın Yapar E, İnal Ö. Nanomaterials and cosmetics. J Fac Pharm Istanbul. 2012; 2(1):43-70.
  • 83. Alğın Yapar, E, Ölgen, S. Kozmetikler ve In Silico Yaklaşımlar. MÜSBED, 4(4):253-260, 2014.
  • 84. Agarwal S, Kumari KPV. Advances in novasome technology- A review. Int J App Pharm. 2013;5(1):1-4.
  • 85. Guimarães, KL, Inês Ré, M. Lipid Nanoparticles as Carriers for Cosmetic Ingredients: The First (SLN) and the Second Generation (NLC). In: Beck R, Guterres S, Pohlmann A, eds. Nanocosmetics and Nanomedicines New Approaches for Skin Care. Verlag Berlin Heidelberg: Springer; 2011. p. 101-122.
  • 86. Gokce EH, Korkmaz E, Dellera E, Sandri G, Bonferoni MC, Ozer O. Resveratrol-loaded solid lipid nanoparticles versus nanostructured lipid carriers: evaluation of antioxidant potential for dermal applications. Int J Nanomedicine. 2012;7:1841–1850.
  • 87. Gokce EH, Korkmaz E, Tuncay-Tanrıverdi S, Dellera E, Sandri G, Bonferoni MC, Ozer O. A comparative evaluation of coenzyme Q10-loaded liposomes and solid lipid nanoparticles as dermal antioxidant carriers. Int J Nanomedicine. 2012;7:5109-5117.
  • 88. Tarımcı N, Badıllı U. Nanotaşıyıcıların Kozmetik Uygulamaları. In: Zırh-Gürsoy A, ed. Nanofarmasötikler ve Uygulamaları. İstanbul: Kontrollü Salım Sistemleri Derneği Yayını; 2014. p. 349-353.
  • 89. Chanchal D, Swarnlata S. Novel approaches in herbal cosmetics. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008;7:89-95.
  • 90. Amit G, Ashawat MS, Shailendra S, Swarnlata S. Phytosome: A novel approach towards functional cosmetics. J Plant Sci. 2007;2(6):644-649.
  • 91. Guglielmini G. Nanostructured novel carrier for topical application. Clin Dermatol. 2008;26(4):341-6.
  • 92. Boonme P, Junyaprasert VB, Suksawad N, Songkro S. Microemulsions and nanoemulsions: novel vehicles for whitening cosmeceuticals. J Biomed Nanotechnol. 2009;5(4):373-83.
  • 93. Özer Ö. Bilimden pratiğe kozmesötikler. Turkiye Klinikleri J Med Sci. 2008; 28(Suppl):175-177.
  • 94. Gopaul R, Knaggs HE, Lephart JF, Holley KC, Gibson EM. An evaluation of the effect of a topical product containing salicin on the visible signs of human skin aging. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2010;9:196-201.
  • 95. Özmen.İ, Köse O. Vitamin D ve Deri. Türk Dermatoloji Dergisi. 2008;2:77-83.

YAŞLANMA KARŞITI KOZMETİK YAKLAŞIMLAR VE ÜRÜN BİLEŞENLERİ

Yıl 2016, Cilt: 5 Sayı: 2, 99 - 109, 31.08.2016

Öz


Cilt yaşlanması; iç veya dış faktörlerin veya bunların birlikteliğinin neden olduğu karmaşık biyolojik bir süreçtir. Gelişen üretim teknolojileri, farmasötik taşıyıcı sistemlerin kozmetik formüllerinde kullanılması ve yenilikçi bileşenlere dayalı yeni nesil kozmetik ürünler, temel kozmetik bakımdan ileri alternatifler sunmaktadır. İleri teknoloji kullanılarak üretilen kozmetik aktif bileşenleri, doğal kaynaklı hammaddelerin kozmetik bileşenleri olarak kullanımının artması ve farmasötik taşıyıcı sistemlerin kozmetik formüllerinde kullanılması ile geliştirilen kozmetik ürünler toplumların artan kozmetik beklentilerini karşılamayı hedeflemektedir. Bu derlemede, günümüzde bireylerin dış ve iç faktörler ile artan cilt yaşlanmasının, kozmetik ürün odaklı çözümleri özellikle bileşenler açısından irdelenmiş, yaşlanma karşıtı farklı yaklaşımlar özetlenmiş ve kullanılan taşıyıcı sistemler belirtilmiştir.

Kaynakça

  • 1. Draleos ZD. Cosmetics, categories, and the future. Dermatologic Therapy. 2012; 25: 223–228.
  • 2. Schneider G, Gohla S, Schreiber J, Kaden W, Schönrock U, Schmidt-Lewerkühne H, Kuschel A, Petsitis X, Pape W, Ippen H, Diembeck W. Skin Cosmetics. In: Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. Weinheim: Wiley-VCH, 2005; p. 24-219.
  • 3. Kışlalıoğlu S. Kozmetoloji Bilimi. In: Yazan Y, ed. Kozmetik Bilimi. İstanbul: Nobel Tıp Kitabevi; 2004; p. 3-9.
  • 4. Kaymak Y, Tırnaksız F. Kozmetik ürünlere bağlı istenmeyen etkiler. Dermatose. 2007; 6(1):39-48.
  • 5. Hekimoğlu S. Deri yaşlanmasına karşı 21. yüzyilin gerçeği: Kozmesötikler. Türkiye Klinikleri J Cosmetol. 1998; 1(1):37-42.
  • 6. Tırnaksız F. Kozmetik ürünlerde kozmesötik olarak antioksidanların, peptit ve proteinlerin kullanımı ve önemi. Türkiye Klinikleri J Int Med Sci. 2006; 2(17):6-18.
  • 7. Tarımcı N. Kozmetik ürün formülasyonlarında yeni alternatifler: Kozmesötik maddeler. Türkiye Klinikleri J Int Med Sci. 2006; 2(17):1-5.
  • 8. Yazan Y. Cilt yaşlanması karşıtı dermakozmetik ürünlerde gelecek jenerasyon. Türkiye Klinikleri J Med Sci. 2008;28:182-185.
  • 9. Özer Ö. Yüz bakımında kullanılan yaşlanma karşıtı kozmesötikler. Türkiye Klinikleri J Med Sci. 2009;29(5):40-43.
  • 10. Chasteen AL, Bashir NY, Gallucci C, Visekruna A. Age and antiaging technique influence reactions to age concealment. J Gerontol B Psychol Sci Soc Sci. 2011; 66:719-724.
  • 11. Grossman R. The role of dimethylaminoethanol in cosmetic dermatology. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(1):39-47.
  • 12. Cevenini E, Invidia L, Lescai F, Salvioli S, Tieri P, Castellani G, et al. Human models of aging and longevity. Expert Opin Biol Ther 2008; 8:1393-405.
  • 13. Contet-Audonneau JL, Jeanmaire C, Pauly G. A histological study of human wrinkle structures: comparison between sun-exposed areas of the face, with or without wrinkles, and sun-protected areas. Br J Dermatol 1999; 140:1038-47.
  • 14. Shuster S, Black MM, McVitie E. The influence of age and sex on skin thickness, skin collagen and density. Br J Dermatol 1975; 93:639-43.
  • 15. Bernstein EF, Underhill CB, Hahn PJ, Brown DB, Uitto J. Chronic sun exposure alters both the content and distribution of dermal glycosaminoglycans. Br J Dermatol 1996; 135:255-62.
  • 16. Elsner P, Maibach HI. Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs versus Cosmetics (2nd edn). Marcel Dekker: New York, 2005.
  • 17. Baumann L. Skin ageing and its treatment. J Pathol 2007; 211:241-51.
  • 18. Trelles MA. Phototherapy in anti-aging and its photobiologic basics: a new approach to skin rejuvenation. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2006;5(1):87-91.
  • 19. Merinville E. Original Contribution: Three clinical studies showing the anti-aging benefits of sodium salicylate in human skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2010;9:174–184.
  • 20. Prahl S, Kueper T, Biernoth T, Wöhrmann Y, Münster A, Fürstenau M, Schmidt M, Schulze C, Wittern KP, Wenck H, Muhr GM, Blatt T. Aging skin is functionally anaerobic: importance of coenzyme Q10 for anti-aging skin care. Biofactors. 2008;32(1-4):245-255.
  • 21. Lademann J, Meinke MC, Sterry W, Darvin ME. Carotenoids in human skin. Exp Dermatol. 2011;20(5):377–382.
  • 22. Zussman J, Ahdout J, Kim J. Vitamins and photoaging: do scientific data support their use? J Am Acad Dermatol. 2010;63(3):507-525.
  • 23. Yenilmez E, Yazan Y. Release of Vitamin E from different topical colloidal delivery systems and their ın vitro-ın vivo evaluation. Turk J Pharm Sci. 2010;7(2):167-188.
  • 24. Kerscher M. Aesthetic and cosmetic dermatology. Eur J Dermatol. 2009;19(5):530-537.
  • 25. Yenilmez E, Yazan Y. Release of Vitamin E from different topical colloidal delivery systems and their ın vitro-ın vivo evaluation. Turk J Pharm Sci. 2010;7(2):167-188.
  • 26. Tabata N, O’Goshi K, Zhen YX, Kligman AM, Tagami H. Biophysical assessment of persistent effects of moisturizers after their daily applications: evaluation of corneotherapy. Dermatology 2000; 200:308-13.
  • 27. Lübbe J. Evidence-based corneotherapy. Dermatology 2000; 200:285-9.
  • 28. Ganceviciene R., Liakou A., Theodoridis A., Makrantonaki E. And Zouboulis C.C., Skin anti-aging strategies, Dermato-Endocrinology 2012; 4:3, 308-319.
  • 29. Trautinger F. Mechanisms of photodamage of the skin and its functional consequences for skin ageing. Clin Exp Dermatol 2001; 26:573-7.
  • 30. Berger MM. Can oxidative damage be treated nutritionally? Clin Nutr 2005; 24:172-83.
  • 31. Marini A. Beauty from the inside. Does it really work?. Hautarzt 2011; 62:614-7.
  • 32. Fusco D, Colloca G, Lo Monaco MR, Cesari M. Effects of antioxidant supplementation on the aging process. Clin Interv Aging 2007; 2:377-87.
  • 33. Terada A, Yoshida M, Seko Y, Kobayashi T, Yoshida K, Nakada M, et al. Active oxygen species generation and cellular damage by additives of parenteral preparations: selenium and sulfhydryl compounds. Nutrition 1999; 15:651-5.
  • 34. Vedamurthy M. Antiaging therapies. Indian Journal of Dermatology Venereology Leprology. 2006;72(3):183-186.
  • 35. Kim H, Kim M, Quan Y, Moon T, Mun J, Cho H, Park N, Moon W, Lee K, Kim H, Lee J, Ryoo H, Jung H. Novel anti-wrinkle effect of cosmeceutical product with new retinyl retinoate microsphere using biodegradable polymer. Skin Res Technol. 2012;18(1):70–76.
  • 36. Cernasov D. The design and development of anti-aging formulations. In: Dayan N, ed. Skin Aging Handbook. NY, USA: William Andrew Inc.; 2008. p. 291–325.
  • 37. Bissett DL, Miyamoto K, Sun P, Li J, Berge CA. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci 2004; 26:231-8.
  • 38. Kerscher M, Buntrock H. Anti-aging creams. What really helps?. Hautarzt 2011; 62:607-13.
  • 39. Murray JC, Burch JA, Streilein RD, Iannacchione MA, Hall RP, Pinnell SR. A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid provides protection for human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation. J Am Acad Dermatol 2008; 59:418-25.
  • 40. Draelos ZD. The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. J Cosmet Dermatol 2007; 6:2-6.
  • 41. Haftek M, Mac-Mary S, Le Bitoux MA, Creidi P, Seité S, Rougier A, et al. Clinical, biometric and structural evaluation of the long-term effects of a topical treatment with ascorbic acid and madecassoside in photoaged human skin. Exp Dermatol 2008; 17:946-52.
  • 42. Zhai H, Behnam S, Villarama CD, Arens-Corell M, Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Evaluation of the antioxidant capacity and preventive effects of a topical emulsion and its vehicle control on the skin response to UV exposure. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2005; 18:288-93.
  • 43. Chiu A, Kimball AB. Topical vitamins, minerals and botanical ingredients as modulators of environmental and chronological skin damage. 2003; 149: 681-9.
  • 44. http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/cosmetics/cosing/
  • 45. Ohshima H, Tada A, Kanamaru A, Akamatsu H, Sakai Y, Itoh M, Kanto H. Relevance of the directionality of skin elasticity to aging and sagging of the face. Skin ResTechnol. 2011;17(1):101–107.
  • 46. Darlenski R, Surber C, Fluhr JW. Topical retinoids in the management of photodamaged skin: from theory to evidence-based practical approach. Br J Dermatol. 2010;163:1157–1165.
  • 47. Gunin AG, Kornilova NK, Vasilieva OV, Petrov VV. Age-related changes in proliferation the numbers of mast cells. eosinophils, and cd45-positive cells in human dermis. J Gerontol A Biol Sci Med Sci. 2011;4:385–392.
  • 48. Rona C, Vailati F, Berardesca E. The cosmetic treatment of wrinkles. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004;3(1):26-34.
  • 49. Kafi R, Kwak HS, Schumacher WE, Cho S, Hanft VN, Hamilton TA, et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol 2007; 143:606-12.
  • 50. Varani J, Warner RL, Gharaee-Kermani M, Phan SH, Kang S, Chung JH, et al. Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. J Invest Dermatol 2000; 114:480-6.
  • 51. Campos PM, de Camargo Júnior FB, de Andrade JP, Gaspar LR. Efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, alpha-lipoic acid and kinetin. Photochem Photobiol. 2012;88:748–752.
  • 52. The Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products Intended For Consumers. Consumer safety of alpha-hydroxy acids. SCCNFP/0799/04.2004.
  • 53. Pena Ferreira MR, Costa PC, Bahia FM. Efficacy of anti-wrinkle products in skin surface appearance: a comparative study using non-invasive methods. Skin Res Technol. 2010;16:444–449.
  • 54. Martín PI, Sánchez PA, Rewald E. Microparticles and the hygiene hypothesis. Ann N Y Acad Sci. 2009;1173:409–421.
  • 55. Watson RE, Ogden S, Cotterell LF, Bowden JJ, Bastrilles JY, Long SP, Griffiths CE. Effects of a cosmetic 'anti-ageing' product improves photoaged skin. Br J Dermatol. 2009;161(2):419–426.
  • 56. G Gillis, M Bishop, S Norton. ActiMatrix TM: Mushroom derived peptide exhibiting firming capabilities. Cos Sci Tech 2006;49-55.
  • 57. Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G, Gil A, Fernández-Ballester G, Ponsati B, Gutierrez L, Pérez-Payá E, Ferrer-Montiel A. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int J Cosmetic Sci. 2002;24:303-310.
  • 58. Elmets CA, Singh D, Tubesing K, Matsui M, Katiyar S, Mukhtar H. Cutaneous photoprotection from ultraviolet injury by green tea polyphenols. J Am Acad Dermatol 2001; 44:425-32.
  • 59. Pinsky MA. Materials and methods for delivering antioxidants into the skin. Patent 2010; US 20100098752 A1.
  • 60. Lupo MP, Cole AL. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Ther 2007; 20:343-9.
  • 61. Öztürkcan, S., Kayhan, T.Ç. Deri Yaşlanmasına Karşı Medikal Önlemler, Dermatoz 2010; 1(2): 77-82.
  • 62. Rougier,A., Seite,S.,. Clinical efficacyof topically apllied Vitamin C associated with madecassoside on skin aging. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 2007; 56: AB 28.
  • 63. Algın Yapar E, İnal Ö, Erdal MS. Design and in vivo evaluation of emulgel formulations including green tea extract and rose oil. Acta Pharm. 2013;63(4):531-543.
  • 64. Wang KH, Lin RD, Hsu FL Huang YH, Chang HC, Huang CY, Lee MH. Cosmetic applications of selected traditional Chinese herbal medicines. J Ethnopharmacol. 2006;106:353–359.
  • 65. Brandy JJ, Baochuan L, Jason EB. Genus vaccinium: medicine, cosmetics, and coatings. Recent Patents on Biotechnology. 2010; 4(2):112-124.
  • 66. Baxter RA. Anti-aging properties of resveratrol: review and report of a potent new antioxidant skin care formulation. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008;7(1):2-7.
  • 67. Callaghan TM, Wilhelm KP. A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part I: Cellular and molecular perspectives of skin ageing. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008;30:323-332.
  • 68. Ono, Y., Hattori, E., Fukaya, Y., Imai, S., Ohizumi, Y. Anti-obesity effect of Nelumbo nucifera leaves extract in mice and rats. Journal of Etnopharmacology 2006; 106: 238-244.
  • 69. Sohn, D.H., Kim, Y.C., Oh, S.H., Park, E.J., Li, X., Lee, B.H. Hepatoprotective and free radical scavenging effects of Nelumbo nucifera. Phytomedicine 2003; 10: 165-169.
  • 70. Rai, S., Wahile, A., Mukherjee, K., Saha, B.P., Mukherjee, P.K. Antioxidant activity of Nelumbo nucifera (sacred lotus) seeds. Journal of Etnopharmacology 2006; 104: 322-327.
  • 71. Wu, W.B., Chiang, H.S., Fang ,J.Y., Chen, S.K., Huang, C.C., Hung, C.F. (+)-Catechin prevents ultraviolet B-induced human keratinocyte death via inhibition of JNK phosphorylation. Life Sciences 2006; 79: 801-807.
  • 72. Psotova, J., Svobodova, A., Kolarova, H., Walterova, D. Photoprotective properties of Prunella vulgaris and rosmarinic acid on human keratinocytes. Journal of Phytochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology 2006; 84: 167-174.
  • 73. Casagrande, R., Georgetti, S.R., Verri Jr.W.A., Dorta, D.J., Santos, C.A., Fonseca, M.J.V. Protective effect of topical formulations containing quercetin against UVB-induced oxidative stres in hairless mice. Journal of Phytochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology 2006; 84: 21-27.
  • 74. Yetkin H., Ceylan, A.M., Yıldırım, M. Deri yaşlanması ve tedavisi, S.D.Ü. Tıp Fak. Derg. 2009; 16(2)/ 32-38.
  • 75. Türsen, Ü. Deri yaşlanmasının Topikal Ajanlarla Önlenmesi, Dermatose, 2006/4, 267-283.
  • 76. http://www.cobiosa.com/producto_ficha.php?id=en&prod=42 (son erişim tarihi:21.03.2016).
  • 77. Epstein, H. Cosmeceutical vehicles. Clin Dermatol. 2009;27(5):453-460.
  • 78. Amer M, Maged M. Cosmeceuticals versus pharmaceuticals. Clin Dermatol. 2009;27(5):428-430.
  • 79. Gao XH, Zhang L, Wei H, Chen HD. Efficacy and safety of innovative cosmeceuticals. Clin Dermatol. 2008;26(4):367-374.
  • 80. Li D, Wu Z, Martini N, Wen J. Advanced carrier systems in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals: a review. J Cosmet Sci. 2011;62(6):549-563.
  • 81. Bergişadi N, Erdem O, Çadırcı E, Alğın Yapar E, Aktaş Y, Erdal MS, Demirel Özel A. Kozmetik Bileşenlerinin Güvenlilik Değerlendirmesinin Avrupa Düzeyinde Yürütülen Kritik Analizi. In: Kadıoğlu Y, ed. Avrupa`da Kozmetiklerin Güvenlilik Değerlendirmesi. İstanbul: Cosming.Com Yayınları; 2014. p. 64-109.
  • 82. Alğın Yapar E, İnal Ö. Nanomaterials and cosmetics. J Fac Pharm Istanbul. 2012; 2(1):43-70.
  • 83. Alğın Yapar, E, Ölgen, S. Kozmetikler ve In Silico Yaklaşımlar. MÜSBED, 4(4):253-260, 2014.
  • 84. Agarwal S, Kumari KPV. Advances in novasome technology- A review. Int J App Pharm. 2013;5(1):1-4.
  • 85. Guimarães, KL, Inês Ré, M. Lipid Nanoparticles as Carriers for Cosmetic Ingredients: The First (SLN) and the Second Generation (NLC). In: Beck R, Guterres S, Pohlmann A, eds. Nanocosmetics and Nanomedicines New Approaches for Skin Care. Verlag Berlin Heidelberg: Springer; 2011. p. 101-122.
  • 86. Gokce EH, Korkmaz E, Dellera E, Sandri G, Bonferoni MC, Ozer O. Resveratrol-loaded solid lipid nanoparticles versus nanostructured lipid carriers: evaluation of antioxidant potential for dermal applications. Int J Nanomedicine. 2012;7:1841–1850.
  • 87. Gokce EH, Korkmaz E, Tuncay-Tanrıverdi S, Dellera E, Sandri G, Bonferoni MC, Ozer O. A comparative evaluation of coenzyme Q10-loaded liposomes and solid lipid nanoparticles as dermal antioxidant carriers. Int J Nanomedicine. 2012;7:5109-5117.
  • 88. Tarımcı N, Badıllı U. Nanotaşıyıcıların Kozmetik Uygulamaları. In: Zırh-Gürsoy A, ed. Nanofarmasötikler ve Uygulamaları. İstanbul: Kontrollü Salım Sistemleri Derneği Yayını; 2014. p. 349-353.
  • 89. Chanchal D, Swarnlata S. Novel approaches in herbal cosmetics. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008;7:89-95.
  • 90. Amit G, Ashawat MS, Shailendra S, Swarnlata S. Phytosome: A novel approach towards functional cosmetics. J Plant Sci. 2007;2(6):644-649.
  • 91. Guglielmini G. Nanostructured novel carrier for topical application. Clin Dermatol. 2008;26(4):341-6.
  • 92. Boonme P, Junyaprasert VB, Suksawad N, Songkro S. Microemulsions and nanoemulsions: novel vehicles for whitening cosmeceuticals. J Biomed Nanotechnol. 2009;5(4):373-83.
  • 93. Özer Ö. Bilimden pratiğe kozmesötikler. Turkiye Klinikleri J Med Sci. 2008; 28(Suppl):175-177.
  • 94. Gopaul R, Knaggs HE, Lephart JF, Holley KC, Gibson EM. An evaluation of the effect of a topical product containing salicin on the visible signs of human skin aging. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2010;9:196-201.
  • 95. Özmen.İ, Köse O. Vitamin D ve Deri. Türk Dermatoloji Dergisi. 2008;2:77-83.
Toplam 95 adet kaynakça vardır.

Ayrıntılar

Birincil Dil Türkçe
Bölüm Derlemeler
Yazarlar

Evren Alğın Yapar Bu kişi benim

Sakine Tuncay Tanrıverdi Bu kişi benim

Yayımlanma Tarihi 31 Ağustos 2016
Gönderilme Tarihi 7 Mart 2016
Yayımlandığı Sayı Yıl 2016 Cilt: 5 Sayı: 2

Kaynak Göster

APA Alğın Yapar, E., & Tuncay Tanrıverdi, S. (2016). YAŞLANMA KARŞITI KOZMETİK YAKLAŞIMLAR VE ÜRÜN BİLEŞENLERİ. Balıkesir Sağlık Bilimleri Dergisi, 5(2), 99-109.

Uluslararası Hakemli Dergi

Dergimiz Açık Erişim Politikasını benimsemiş olup dergimize gönderilen yayınlar için gerek değerlendirme gerekse yayınlama dahil yazarlardan hiçbir ücret talep edilmemektedir. 

Creative Commons License

Bu eser Creative Commons Atıf-GayriTicari 4.0 Uluslararası Lisansı ile lisanslanmıştır.