Moda Tasarımında Döngüsel Ekonomi Kavramı Ve Farklı Tasarım Seviyelerinde Benimsenen Stratejiler

Year 2020, Volume: 10 Issue: 1, 24 - 40, 30.06.2020

Duygu Atalay Onur

https://doi.org/10.20488/sanattasarim.828900

Abstract

Moda endüstrisi, Sanayi Devrimi’nden bu yana giysi tüketiminin her sınıf için daha demokratik olabileceği bir ekonomik yapı yaratmıştır. Ancak bu yapı beraberinde insan ve çevre üzerinde olumsuz etki yaratan bir sistemin oluşumunu da getirmiştir. Al-kullan-at tarzı tüketim alışkanlığını dayatan bu yapı doğrusal bir sistemdir ve son 15 yıldır bu sistem yerine Döngüsel Ekonomi modeline geçiş özellikle de gelişmiş ülkeler tarafından tartışılmakta ve Avrupa Birliği içerisinde bu modeli benimsemeye yönelik protokoller imzalanmaktadır. Döngüsel Ekonomi kavramı kapalı döngü sistemine işaret eder. Zaten sistemin içine girmiş olan ürün, malzeme ve kaynakların sahip oldukları değerlerin sistemde olabildiğince uzun süre kalmasını hedefleyen bir sistemdir. Bu makalenin amacı yakın gelecekte moda endüstrisinin başlıca üretim yöntemlerinden biri olacak bu kavramın gelişim sürecini incelemek ve ortaya çıkan yeni tasarım ve üretim stratejilerini tartışmaktır. Araştırma, Türkiye ve yurtdışından moda sektöründeki farklı pazar seviyelerinden örneklerin incelenmesine dayanmaktadır. Çalışmada hem var olan pazar seviyelerine bakılmış hem de Döngüsel Ekonomi kavramının yarattığı yeni pazar seviyelerinde benimsenen stratejiler ortaya konmuştur. Yöntem olarak literatür taramasına dayalı bir araştırma yapılmış ve literatürde öne çıkan kavramlar vaka incelemeleriyle örneklenmiştir.

Keywords

Moda Tasarımı, Döngüsel Ekonomi, Yukarı-dönüşüm, Sıfır Atık, Kişiye Özel Tasarım

The Notion Of Circular Economy In Fashion Design And Strategies Embraced In Different Design Levels

Abstract

Since the Industrial Revolution, Fashion industry invented an economic structure that provides a democratized atmosphere of consumption for each class. However, this progression has generated negative impacts on humanity and the environment. It leans on a linear system which imposes the pattern of consumption based on take-use-dispose practices. Within the last 15 years, especially in developed countries, a transition from the linear model to the Circular Economic model has been discussed. In the European Union, members sign protocols to embrace this circular model. Circular Economy is characterized by a closed loop system. It aims to keep the products, materials, and sources within the same system as long as possible. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the progression of this system which will be among the primary production methods of the fashion industry in the near future. It also aims to discuss the emerging design and production strategies of the circular model. The research is based on the analysis of examples from different market levels of the fashion sector in Turkey and abroad. It firstly focuses on existing market levels and at the same time, it introduces the practices that have been adopted in new market levels emerged with Circular Economy. The method of the research is based on a literature review and analysis of case studies.

Keywords

FashionDesign, CircularEconomy, Up-cycling, ZeroWaste, CustomizedDesign

References

• Arman, A. (2018). Davet Çok Elbisem Yok’un Yaratıcıları Eda ve Seda. Hürriyet. http://www.hurriyet.com.tr/yazarlar/ayse- arman/davet-cok-elbisem-yokun-yaraticilari-eda-ve-seda-40788618. (Erişim tarihi: 06.10. 2019).
• Baki, Y. (2019). Röportaj: A Hidden Bee ile Sürdürülebilir Moda. Live to Bloom. https://livetobloom.com/roportaj-a-hidden- bee-ile-surdurulebilir-moda/. (Erişim tarihi: 06.10. 2019).
• Black, S. (2008). Eco-Chic The Fashion Paradox. Londra: Black Dog Publishing.
• Bocken, N. M.P, Pauw, I., Baker, C. ve Gritten, B. (2016). Product Design and Business Model Strategies for a Circular Economy. Journal of Industrial and Production Engineeering, 33(5), 308-320.
• Bosnalı, C. (2019 a). Sürdürülebilir Türk Moda Markaları: Atölye Ren. Oggusto. https://www.oggusto.com/blog/detay/2032/ surdurulebilir-turk-moda-markalari-atolye-ren.html. (Erişim tarihi: 01.10. 2019).
• Bosnalı, C. (2019 b). Sürdürülebilir Türk Moda Markaları: One Square Meter. Oggusto. https://www.oggusto.com/blog/de- tay/1932/surdurulebilir-turk-moda-markalari-one-square-meter.html. (Erişim tarihi: 01.10. 2019).
• Braungart, M. ve McDonough, W. (2009). Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things. Londra: Vintage Books.
• Brown. S. (2010). Ecofashion. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd.
• Burns, L. D., Mullet, K. K., ve Bryant, N. O. (2007). The Business of Fashion: Designing, Manufacturing, and Marketing. New York: Fairchild Publications.
• Chapman, J. ve Gant, N. (Ed.). (2007). Designers, Visionaries and Other Stories : A Collection of Sustainable Design Essays. Londra: Earthscan Publications.
• Craik, J. (2009). Fashion: The Key Concepts. Oxford: Berg Publishers.
• DeFacto. (2016). DeFacto Sürdürülebilirlik Raporu. http://dfcdn.defacto.com.tr/ kurumsal/DeFacto _surdurulebilirlik_rapo- ru2016.pdf. (Erişim tarihi: 05.10. 2019)
• Durukan, N. E. (2019). Koton Sürdürülebilirlik için Adım Attı. Campaigntr. https://www.campaigntr.com/koton-surdurulebil- irlik-icin-adim-atti/. (Erişim tarihi: 05.10. 2019).
• Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2013). Towards a Circular Economy: Business Rationale for an Accelerated Transition. https:// www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/ downloads/publications/Ellen-MacArthur-Foundation-Towards-the-Circular- Economy-vol.1.pdf. (Erişim tarihi: 15.06. 2018)
• Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2017). A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future. http://www.ellenmacarthurfoun- dation.org/publications. (Erişim tarihi: 15.06. 2018)
• Faerm, S. (2010). Fashion Design Course Principles, Practice and Techniques: The Ultimate Guide for Aspiring Fashion De- signers. Londra: Thames and Hudson.
• Fletcher, K. (2008). Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys Malta: Earthscan.
• Gregory, P. M. (1947). A Theory of Purposeful Obsolescence. Southern Economic Journal, 14(1), 24–45.
• Han, S. L. C., Chan, P. Y. L., Venkatraman, P., Apeagyei, P. Cassidy, T. ve Tyler, D. J. (2017) Standard vs. Upcycled Fashion Design and Production. Fashion Practice, 9(1), 69-94.
• Hepburn, S. (2015). Nike and Adidas show cautious support for eco-friendly dye technology. The Guardian. https://www. theguardian.com/sustainable-business/sustainable-fashion-blog/2015 /apr/24/nike-and-adidas-show-cautious-support-for- eco-friendly-dye-technology/ (Erişim tarihi: 03.02.2019)
• Hollins, O. (2013). Report on Closed loop fibre recycling: Current status and future challenges. Textilesupdate. http://tex- tilesupdate.com/oakdene-hollins-report-on-closed-loop-fibre-recycling-current-status-and-future-challenges (Erişim tarihi: 01.02.2019)
• Hvass, K., K. (2015). Business Model Innovation through Second Hand Retailing: A Fashion Industry Case. The Journal of Corporate Citizenship, 2015(57), 11-32.
• Kennedy, B. (2012). Leaner, faster, greener: Nike’s new supply chain goals. Greenbiz. https://www.greenbiz.com/ blog/2012/05/07/nike-sustainability-goals-supply-chain. (Erişim tarihi: 10.01.2019)
• Koszewska, M. (2018). Circular Economy-Challanges for the Textile and Clothing Industry. AUTEX Research Journal, 18(4), 337-347.
• Loscialpo, F. (2012). Fashion and Philosophical Deconstruction: A Fashion in-Deconstruction. A. de Witt-Paul ve M.Crouch (Editörler), Fashion Forward içinde (s. 13-27), Oxford: Inter-Disciplinary Press.
• Mau, D. (2017). Stella Mccartney Wants You To Resell Her Goods. Fashionista.
• https://fashionista.com/2017/10/stella-mccartney-the-realreal-partnership/. (Erişim tarihi: 03.02.2019)
• McQuillan, H. (2011). Zero Waste Design Practice: Strategies and Risk Taking for Garment Design. A. Gwilt and T. Rissanen, (Editörler). Shaping Sustainable Fashion: Changing the Way We Make and Use Clothes içinde ( s. 99-140). Londra: Earthscan.
• Merli,R., Preziosi, M. ve Acampora, A. (2017). How do scholars approach the circular economy? A systematic literature review. Journal of Cleaner Production, 178, 703-722.
• Moorhouse, D. ve Moorhouse, D. (2017). Sustainable Design: Circular Economy in Fashion and Textiles. The Design Journal, 20(sup1), S1948-S1959.
• Payne, A. (2011). The life-cycle of the fashion garment and the role of Australian mass market designers. The International Journal of Environmental, Cultural, Economic and Social Sustainability, 7(3), 237-246.
• Rissanen, T. (2008). Creating Fashion without the Creation of Fabric Waste. J. Hethorn ve C. Ulasewicz (Editörler). Sustain- able Fashion Why Now? A Conversation about Issues, Practices, and Possibilities içinde (s. 184-206). New York: Fairchild Books.
• Scaturro, S. (2008). Eco-tech Fashion: Rationalizing Technology in Sustainable Fashion. Fashion Theory, 12(4), s. 469-488.
• Seivewright, S. (2013). Moda Tasarımında Araştırma ve Tasarım. (Çev: B. Bakan). İstanbul: Literatür Yayıncılık.
• Thomas, S. (2008). From Green Blur to Ecofashion: Fashioning an Eco-lexicon. Fashion Theory, 12(4), 525–540.
• Tung, F.-W. (2012). Weaving with Rush: Exploring Craft-Design Collaborations in Revitalizing a Local Craft. International Journal of Design, 6(3), 71-84.
• Varol, L. (2018). Çevre Dostu 5 Türk Markası: SuCo, Epidotte, Restrore Jeans, Iamnotbasic, Reflect. The Magger. https://www. themagger.com/cevre-dostu-markalar/ (Erişim tarihi: 03.10.2019).
• Welters, L.(2008). The Fashion of Sustainability. J. Hethorn ve C. Ulasewicz (Editörler). Sustainable Fashion Why Now? A Conversation about Issues, Practices, and Possibilities içinde (s. 7-29). New York: Fairchild Books.
• http-1: http://orangefiber.it/en/ (Erişim tarihi: 26.01.2019)
• http-2: http://www.viktor-rolf.com/haute-couture/ (Erişim tarihi: 22.02.2019)
• http-3: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/j/junky-styling/ (Erişim tarihi: 18.01.2019)
• http-4: https://www.patagonia.com/home/ (Erişim tarihi: 22.01.2019)
• http-5: https://www.awaydenim.com/ (Erişim tarihi: 22.02.2019)
• http-6: https://www.renttherunway.com/plans?nav_location=mainmenu&action=click_ ways_to_rent&object_type=top_nav (Erişim tarihi: 28.01.2019)
• http-7: https://vigga.us/in-english/ (Erişim tarihi: 22.02.2019)
• http-8: https://mudjeans.eu/how-lease-a-jeans-works/ (Erişim tarihi: 01.02.2019)
• http-9: https://www.fameandpartners.com/about (Erişim tarihi: 01.02.2019)
• http-10: http://www.ecofashiontalk.com/2013/08/antithesis/ (Erişim tarihi: 15.01. 2019)
• http-11: http://www.ecofashiontalk.com/2012/01/lemuria/ (Erişim tarihi: 15.01. 2019)
• http-12: http://www.postcouture.cc/ourstory/ (Erişim tarihi: 28.01.2019)
• http-13: https://www.freecycle.org/about/ (Erişim tarihi: 28.01.2019)