TY - JOUR T1 - Determining Deformation and Recovery Characteristics of Woven Fabrics Using A Novel Instrument TT - Dokuma Kumaşların Deformasyon ve Geri Dönüş Özelliklerinin Yeni Bir Cihaz Kullanılarak Belirlenmesi AU - Üren, Nazlı PY - 2024 DA - January DO - 10.21205/deufmd.2024267611 JF - Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Mühendislik Fakültesi Fen ve Mühendislik Dergisi JO - DEUFMD PB - Dokuz Eylul University WT - DergiPark SN - 1302-9304 SP - 90 EP - 97 VL - 26 IS - 76 LA - en AB - Deformation and recovery characteristics of fabrics are important factors to be considered when evaluating comfort and formability. In this study, deformation (D), elasticity (E), plasticity (P) and hysteresis (H) properties of nine woven fabrics made of cotton and its blends were measured by Tactile Sensation Analyzer (TSA), and the relations between obtained results and low-stress mechanical properties (compressibility, bending rigidity, extensibility, shear resistance), structural properties (mass per unit area, thread count) and formability were investigated. Parameters which indicate the magnitude of out-of-plane deformation (D and E) were found out to be strongly related to bending, shear and extension properties. Recovery characteristics of fabrics - plasticity and hysteresis - were observed to be highly related to bending length and extensibility recorded under 5 N/m load. Moreover, parameters P and H were noted to be moderatly related to mass per unit area, thread count and resistance to repeated shear deformation. In addition to these findings, formability of cotton blended woven fabrics was detected to be significantly corelated with deformation and elasticity parameters measured by TSA. KW - Tactile Sensation Analyzer KW - out-of-plane deformation KW - bending rigidity KW - shear deformation KW - tactile comfort KW - formability N2 - Kumaşların deformasyon ve geri dönüş özellikleri, konfor ve şekil alabilirliğin değerlendirilmesi esnasında dikkate alınması gereken önemli faktörlerdir. Bu çalışmada, pamuk ve karışımlarından elde edilmiş dokuz adet dokuma kumaşın deformasyon (D), elastisite (E), plastisite (P) ve histeresiz (H) özellikleri Tactile Sensation Analyzer (TSA) ile ölçülmüş ve elde edilen sonuçlar ile düşük-yük mekanik özellikler (sıkıştırılabilirlik, eğilme direnci, uzama yeteneği, kayma direnci), yapısal özellikler (birim alan kütlesi ve iplik sıklığı) ve şekil alabilirlik arasındaki ilişkiler incelenmiştir. Yüzey-dışı deformasyonun büyüklüğünü ifade eden parametrelerin (D ve E) eğilme, kayma ve uzama özellikleri ile kuvvetle ilişkili olduğu bulunmuştur. Kumaşların geri dönüş özelliklerinin - plastisite ve histeresiz - eğilme uzunluğu ve 5 N/m yük altında kaydedilen uzama yeteneği ile yüksek ilişkili olduğu gözlemlenmiştir. Ayrıca, P ve H parametrelerinin, birim alan kütlesi, iplik sıklığı ve tekrarlanan kayma deformasyonuna gösterilen direnç ile de orta derecede ilişkili olduğu kaydedilmiştir. Bu bulgularak ek olarak, pamuk karışımlı dokuma kumaşların şekil alabilirliğinin, TSA ile ölçülen deformasyon ve elastisite parametreleri ile anlamlı korelasyon gösterdiği saptanmıştır. CR - Hui, C-L., Ng, S-F. 2005. A New Approach for Prediction of Sewing Performance of Fabrics in Apparel Manufacturing Using Artificial Neural Networks, The Journal of the Textile Institute, Volume. 96, Issue. 6, pp. 401-405. DOI: 10.1533/joti.2005.0101 CR - Giorgio Minazio, P. 1998. 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