TY - JOUR TT - THE EFFECTS OF SEWING THREAD PROPERTIES ON THE NEEDLE THREAD TENSION IN AN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE AU - Koncer, Pınar AU - Gürarda, Ayça AU - Kaplangiray, Binnaz AU - Kanık, Mehmet PY - 2014 DA - June JF - Textile and Apparel PB - Ege University WT - DergiPark SN - 1300-3356 SP - 118 EP - 123 VL - 24 IS - 1 KW - İğne ipliği gerilimi KW - Dikiş ipliği KW - Yağ KW - Yağ besleme oranı N2 - This paper presents the measurement of the needle thread tension in an industrial sewing machine using various sewing threads. In this work, three types of sewing threads, air-jet textured (PET), core-spun (PET/PET) and (PET)-spun were used. Two lubricant types and two lubricant feeding rates were applied to these sewing threads. The results of this research show that the sewing thread type, lubricant type and lubricant feeding rate have important effects on the tension of the needle thread. The tension values were lowest for all of the sewing thread types using a paraffin-based lubricant. When paraffin wax was used in the lubricant the tension decreased slightly. Paraffin-based lubricants with 1 g/min lubricant feeding rate are suitable for sewing threads to achieve the lowest needle thread tension CR - 1. Ferreira F.B.N., Harlock S.C. and Grosberg P., 1994, “Thread Tensions on Lockstitch Sewing Machine (Part I)”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 6, No 1, pp:14-19. CR - 2. Harrison P.W.,2000, “Sewing Threads”,The Textile Institute, Textile Progress, Vol. 30, No 3/4, pp:59-61. CR - 3. Nayak R.,Padhye R.,Dhamija S and Kumar V.,2013, “Sewability of Air-jet Textured Sewing Threads in Denim”, Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management, Vol.8(1), pp:1-11. CR - 4. Baytar F.,2002, “Analysis of Needle Penetration Forces In Lockstitch Sewing Process”, MSc Thesis, İTÜ. 5. Laing R.M., Webster J.,1998, “Stitches and Seams”, The Textile Institute, pp: 17. CR - 6. Midha V.K., Mukhopadhyay A., Chatopadhyay R. and Kothari V.K., 2009, “Studies on the Changes in Tensile Properties of Sewing Thread at Different Sewing Stages”, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 79(13), pp: 1155-1167. CR - 7. Bamberg M., “Circular Knitting”, 1995; pp: 220–221. CR - 8. Gurarda A., Yukseltan E., Kaplangiray B. and Kanık M., 2013, “The Effects of Lubricants on the Frictional Properties of Sewing Threads”, Textile Research Journal, DOI: 10.1177/0040517512470199. CR - 9. Gurarda A, Kaplangiray B, Kanık M, Yukseltan E., 2011, “The Effects of Lubricants on the Stiffness of Sewing Threads”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, Vol.21(3), pp: 272-279. CR - 10. http://www.graf-chemie.com/lang-en/produkte/technik/textil/84-graf-lubrication system.html. UR - https://dergipark.org.tr/en/pub/tekstilvekonfeksiyon/issue//251994 L1 - https://dergipark.org.tr/en/download/article-file/218369 ER -