Avangard Bir Tasarımın Tekrarlanan Görselleri Üzerinden Derridacı Yapısökümü Okumak

Year 2022, Volume: 21 Issue: 3, 1512 - 1524, 31.07.2022

Gizem Kızıltunalı

https://doi.org/10.21547/jss.1054178

Abstract

Bu makale, bir durum incelemesi çalışması olarak Hüseyin Çağlayan'ın Memory Dress tasarımına odaklanır ve Derridacı yapıbozumun eleştirel avangard yöntemi ile avangard moda tasarımı arasındaki benzerliklere işaret etmek için içerik analizi yapar. Memory Dress'in dört farklı versiyonu üzerinde yürütülen içerik analizini standart hale getirmek için bir kodlama şeması kullanılmıştır. Çalışma, Memory Dress'in dönüştürülebilir yüksek yaka, parlak düğme, dikey iğne dikişi, yatay çift dikişi ve yama göğüs cebi gibi tasarım detaylarına odaklanır ve Derridacı metinlerarasılık, iz ve différance kavramları altında her kategoriyi ayrı ayrı inceler. Kodlama şeması, giysinin görsel görüntüleri üzerinde yapılan nitel analiz yoluyla her Derridacı kavramının görsel karşılığını ortaya çıkarır. Bu şekilde makale, avangart bir giysinin yapısını dekonstrüktivist normlarla ilişkili olarak açıklamaktadır. Bu amaçla, makale, bir giysinin yapısal olarak nasıl somutlaştığını ve Derridacı metinlerarasılık, iz ve différance kavramlarını görsel olarak nasıl ilettiğini göstermektedir. Makale, tasarım detayları ve motifler üzerine soyut, felsefi terimleri somutlaştırarak, postmodern eleştirel düşünce ile avangard yaratıcılık arasındaki paralelliği vurgulamaktadır.

Keywords

içerik analizi, avangard, tasarım, Derrida, yapısöküm, iz, metinlerarasılık, differance

Reading Derridean Deconstruction on the Repetitive Visuals of an Avant-garde Design

Abstract

This article focuses on Hussein Chalayan’s Memory Dress as a case study and applies content analysis on it so as to point out the similarities between the critical avant-garde method of Derridean deconstruction and avant-garde fashion design. A coding schema is utilized to standardize the content analysis conducted on the variety of styles of the Memory Dress. The study focuses on the design details of the Memory Dress such as the convertible high-stand collar, the shiny button, the vertical needle stitch, the horizontal double stitches and the chest patch pocket and studies each category separately under the Derridean concepts of intertextuality, trace and différance. The coding schema reveals the visual equivalence of each Derridean concept through the qualitative analysis conducted on the visual images of the garment. This way, the article explains an avant-garde garment’s structure in relation to deconstructivist norms. With such intention, the article demonstrates how a garment structurally embodies and visually communicates the Derridean notions of intertextuality, trace and différance. By materializing abstract, philosophical terms on design details, and motifs, the article highlights the parallelism between postmodern critical thinking, and avant-garde creativity.

Keywords

content analysis, avant-garde, design, Derrida, Deconstruction, trace, intertextuality, differance

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