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THE EFFECT OF CLOTHING AS A MARKER ON IDENTITY

Year 2021, Volume: 14 Issue: 33, 117 - 130, 15.03.2021
https://doi.org/10.12981/mahder.867867

Abstract

One of the codes used by individuals to define their identity and convey it to others is clothing. Clothing, which is an instrument that can draw symbolic boundaries between people, must have a strong link between individuals’ real social identities and externally perceived hints in order to be read in common by observers. The major problem to be investigated in this research is to analyze the relationships between identity and clothing, which have been going on since ancient times and will continue in the future. In order to understand these relationships, a theoretical framework needs to be established, and a broad, holistic perspective on the social dimensions of clothing should be developed. The main purpose of this article was to draw on the relationship between clothing and major components of identity. Based on the fact that alternative clothing codes transform those who wear certain clothes into effective symbolic subjects in terms of directing them to a certain behavior politically, culturally, and socially, it was analyzed that this subject constitutes the basis of class struggle.

References

  • Adaş, S. - Konuralp, E. (2020a). Eski Yugoslavya’da Sırp milliyetçiliğinin tarihsel temelleri ve Yugoslavya Sosyalist Federal Cumhuriyeti’nin dağılmasına etkileri. Anadolu ve Balkan Araştırmaları Dergisi, 3 (6), 107–139.
  • Adaş, S. - Konuralp, E. (2020b). Sırp milliyetçiliği fay hattında Bosna-Hersek siyasetinin krizi. Barış Araştırmaları ve Çatışma Çözümleri Dergisi, 8 (2), 102–126.
  • Anderson, B. R. O. (1994). Hayali cemaatler: Milliyetçiliğin kökenleri ve yayılması. İstanbul: Metis.
  • Armstrong, J. A. (1982). Nations before nationalism. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press.
  • Asad, T. (2006). Trying to understand French secularism. Political Theologies: Public Religions in a Post-Secular World, (Eds. H. de Vries - L. E. Sullivan), 494-526, New York: Fordham University Press.
  • Babbie, E. (2001). The practice of social research. (9th edition). Belmont: Wadsworth.
  • Bates, T. R. (1975). Gramsci and the theory of hegemony. Journal of the History of Ideas, 36 (2), 351.
  • Berard, T. J. (2005). Evaluative categories of action and identity in non-evaluative human studies research: Examples from ethnomethodology. Qualitative Sociology Review, 1 (1), 5-30.
  • Billig, M. (1997). Banal nationalism. London: Sage Publications.
  • Blumer, H. (1969). Fashion: From class differentiation to collective selection. The Sociological Quarterly, 10 (3), 275-291.
  • Butler, J. (1999). Gender trouble: Feminism and the subversion of identity. New York: Routledge.
  • Çınar, A. (2012). Subversion and subjugation in the public sphere. Visualizing Secularism and Religion, (Eds. A. Cinar, S. Roy - M. Yahya), 25-46, Ann Arbor, MI: University of Michigan Press.
  • Crane, D. (2000). Fashion and its social agendas: class, gender, and identity in clothing. Chicago and London: University of Chicago Press.
  • Davis, F. (1992). Fashion, culture, and identity. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
  • Davis, L. R. (1997). The swimsuit issue and sport: Hegemonic masculinity in sports illustrated. Albany: State University of New York Press.
  • Fenton, S. (2003). Ethnicity. Cambridge: Polity Press.
  • Field, G. A. (1970). The status float phenomenon: The upward diffusion of innovation. Business Horizons, 13 (4), 45-52.
  • Foucault, M. (1978). The history of sexuality. New York: Pantheon Books.
  • Fraser, N. (1998). Social justice in the age of identity politics: Redistribution, recognition and participation., The Tanner Lectures on Human Values, Vol. XIX, (Ed. G. Peterson), 1-67, Salt Lake City: University of Utah Press.
  • Fraser, N. (2000). Rethinking recognition. New Left Review, (3), 107-120. Gallagher, A. H. - Pecot-Hebert, L. (2007). “You need a makeover!”: The social construction of female body image in “A makeover story”, "What not to wear”, and “Extreme makeover.” Popular Communication, 5 (1), 57-79.
  • Giddens, A. (2000). Siyaset, sosyoloji ve toplumsal teori. İstanbul: Metis.
  • Hamzaoğlu, M. - Konuralp, E. (2018). Türk hukuk sisteminin ‘namus’la imtihanı: Ulusal mevzuat ve uluslararası düzenlemeler açısından namus cinayetleri. Marmara Üniversitesi Kadın ve Toplumsal Cinsiyet Araştırmaları Dergisi, 2 (2), 67-83.
  • Hamzaoğlu, M. - Konuralp, E. (2019a). Geleneksel toplumlarda namus olgusu ve namus cinayeti: Türkiye örneği. İstanbul Üniversitesi Kadın Araştırmaları Dergisi, (1), 51-65.
  • Hamzaoğlu, M. - Konuralp, E. (2019b). Türkiye’de kadına karşı şiddetin sembolik ve doğrudan biçimleri: Namus olgusu ve namus cinayetleri. The Bulletin of Legal Medicine, 24 (3), 226-235.
  • HandEye. (2010). Colour and encoded meaning. Retrieved June 1, 2020, from Handeye Magazine website: http://handeyemagazine.com/content/colour-and-encoded-meaning
  • Haulotte, E. (1966). Symbolique du vêtement selon la Bible. Paris: Aubier.
  • Hirsch, E. G. - Levi, G. B. (2011). Coat. Retrieved May 31, 2020, from Jewish Encyclopedia website: http://www.jewishencyclopedia.com/articles/4427-coat
  • Hutchinson, J. (1987). The dynamics of cultural nationalism: The Gaelic revival and the creation of the Irish nation state. London: Allen & Unwin.
  • Hutchinson, J. (2005). Nations as zones of conflict. London: SAGE.
  • Isaacs, H. R. (1989). Idols of the tribe: group identity and political change. Massachusetts: Harvard University Press.
  • Jerkins, R. (2008). Social identity. Londra: Routledge.
  • Kahn, K. B. - Davies, P. G. (2017). What influences shooter bias? The effects of suspect race, neighborhood and clothing on decisions to shoot. Journal of Social Issues, 73 (4), 723-743.
  • Konuralp, E. (2017). Etnik kimliğin veçheleri ve etnisite kuramları. Kriz, Kimlik ve Ötesi, (Ed. E. B. Ateş Çiftçi), 14-16, İstanbul: İstanbul Yeni Yüzyıl Üniversitesi.
  • Konuralp, E. (2018). Kimliğin etni ve ulus arasında salınımı: Çokkültürcülük mü yeniden kabilecilik mi?. Eskişehir Osmangazi Üniversitesi İktisadi ve İdari Bilimler Dergisi, 13 (2), 133-146.
  • Konuralp, E. (2019). İspanya’da bölgeli devletin tarihsel gelişimi, yasal düzeni ve siyasal yapılanışı. Akademik İncelemeler Dergisi, 14 (1), 345-402.
  • Konuralp, E. (2020). Limits of post-secularism in Turkey: Comparing the attitudes of the Justice and Development Party towards the headscarf and Alevi issues. Religion Compass, e12352.
  • Konuralp, E. - Adaş, S. (2020). Makedonya’da isim sorunu: Yunan ve Makedon milliyetçiliklerinin kıskacında kimlik inşası. Iğdır Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, (21), 311-343.
  • Kymlicka, W. (2016). Çağdaş siyaset felsefesine giriş. (3rd ed.). İstanbul: İstanbul Bilgi Üniversitesi.
  • Laclau, E. (2000). Evrensellik, kimlik ve özgürleşme. İstanbul: Birikim.
  • Maeder, E. (1983). An elegant art: fashion & fantasy in the eighteenth century. Los: Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
  • Marshall, T. H. (1965). Class, citizenship and social development. New York: Anchor.
  • Mcdermott, L. A. - Pettijohn II, T. F. (2011). The influence of clothing fashion and race on the perceived socioeconomic status and person perception of college students. Psychology and Society, 4 (2), 64-75.
  • Özdemir, E. (2012). Kimlik. Siyaset Bilimi: Kavramlar, İdeolojiler, Disiplinler Arası İlişkiler, (Eds. G. Atılgan - A. E. Aytekin), 169-181, İstanbul: Yordam.
  • Perrot, P. (1994). Fashioning the bourgeoisie : A history of clothing in the nineteenth century. Princeton, New Jersey: Princeton University Press.
  • Polhemus, T. (1994). Street style: From sidewalk to catwalk. London: Thames and Hudson.
  • Quataert, D. (2005). The Ottoman Empire, 1700–1922. New York: Cambridge University Press.
  • Scott, J. W. (2007). The politics of the veil. Princeton, New Jersey: Princeton University Press.
  • Simmel, G. (1957). Fashion. American Journal of Sociology, 62 (6), 541–558.
  • Skeggs, B. (1993). A good time for women only. Deconstructing Madonna, (Ed. F. Lloyd), 128, London: Batsford.
  • Smith, A. D. (2007). Epilogue: The power of ethnic traditions in the modern world. Nationalism and Ethnosymbolism: History, Culture and Ethnicity in the Formation of Nations, (Eds. A. S. Leoussi - S. Grosby), 325-336, Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press.
  • Smith, A. D. (2016). Ethnosymbolism. The Wiley Blackwell Encyclopedia of Race, Ethnicity, and Nationalism. John Wiley & Sons.
  • Taylor, C. (2011). Why we need a radical redefinition of secularism?. The Power of Religion in the Public Sphere, (Eds. E. Mendieta - J. VanAntwerpen), 34-59, New York: Columbia University Press.
  • Tocqueville, A. de. (2016). Democracy in America: A new abridgment for students (Ed. J. D. Wilsey). Bellingham, WA: Lexham Press.
  • Tvedtnes, J. A. (1994). Priestly clothing in Bible times. Temples of the Ancient World: Ritual and Symbolism, (Ed. D. W. Parry), 649-704, Provo, UT: Deseret Book Company.
  • Veblen, T. (1894). The economic theory of woman’s dress. The Popular Science Monthly, 46, 198–205.
  • Young, I. M. (1989). Polity and group difference: A critique of the ideal of universal citizenship. Ethics, 99 (2), 250-274.

GİYİMİN BİR İŞARETLEYİCİ OLARAK KİMLİK ÜZERİNDEKİ ETKİSİ

Year 2021, Volume: 14 Issue: 33, 117 - 130, 15.03.2021
https://doi.org/10.12981/mahder.867867

Abstract

Bireylerin kimliklerini tanımlamak ve başkalarına aktarmak için kullandıkları kodlardan biri giyimdir. İnsanlar arasında sembolik sınırlar çizebilen bir araç olan giyimin gözlemciler tarafından ortak olarak okunabilmesi için bireylerin gerçek sosyal kimlikleri ile dışarıdan algılanan ipuçları arasında güçlü bir bağa sahip olması gerekir. Bu araştırmanın temel sorunsalı, eski çağlardan beri devam eden ve gelecekte de devam edecek olan kimlik ve giyim ilişkilerini analiz etmektir. Bu ilişkileri anlamak için kuramsal bir çerçevede ele almak ve giyimin sosyal boyutları hakkında geniş, bütünsel bir bakış açısı geliştirmek amacıyla bu makalede, giyim ile kimliğin temel bileşenleri arasındaki ilişkiye odaklanılmaktadır. Bu çalışmada, bazı grupları sembolik olarak tanımlayan ve diğerlerini dışlayan giyimin politik, sosyal ve kültürel düzeylerde belirleyici bir gösterge olarak kullanıldığı ve belirli sosyal gruplara hitap ettiği sonucuna ulaşılmıştır. Alternatif giyim kodlarının, belli kıyafetleri giyenleri politik, kültürel ve sosyal olarak belirli bir davranışa yönlendirmek açısından da etkili sembolik öznelere dönüştürmesinden hareketle bu öznenin, sınıf mücadelesine temel teşkil etmesi analiz edilmiştir.

References

  • Adaş, S. - Konuralp, E. (2020a). Eski Yugoslavya’da Sırp milliyetçiliğinin tarihsel temelleri ve Yugoslavya Sosyalist Federal Cumhuriyeti’nin dağılmasına etkileri. Anadolu ve Balkan Araştırmaları Dergisi, 3 (6), 107–139.
  • Adaş, S. - Konuralp, E. (2020b). Sırp milliyetçiliği fay hattında Bosna-Hersek siyasetinin krizi. Barış Araştırmaları ve Çatışma Çözümleri Dergisi, 8 (2), 102–126.
  • Anderson, B. R. O. (1994). Hayali cemaatler: Milliyetçiliğin kökenleri ve yayılması. İstanbul: Metis.
  • Armstrong, J. A. (1982). Nations before nationalism. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press.
  • Asad, T. (2006). Trying to understand French secularism. Political Theologies: Public Religions in a Post-Secular World, (Eds. H. de Vries - L. E. Sullivan), 494-526, New York: Fordham University Press.
  • Babbie, E. (2001). The practice of social research. (9th edition). Belmont: Wadsworth.
  • Bates, T. R. (1975). Gramsci and the theory of hegemony. Journal of the History of Ideas, 36 (2), 351.
  • Berard, T. J. (2005). Evaluative categories of action and identity in non-evaluative human studies research: Examples from ethnomethodology. Qualitative Sociology Review, 1 (1), 5-30.
  • Billig, M. (1997). Banal nationalism. London: Sage Publications.
  • Blumer, H. (1969). Fashion: From class differentiation to collective selection. The Sociological Quarterly, 10 (3), 275-291.
  • Butler, J. (1999). Gender trouble: Feminism and the subversion of identity. New York: Routledge.
  • Çınar, A. (2012). Subversion and subjugation in the public sphere. Visualizing Secularism and Religion, (Eds. A. Cinar, S. Roy - M. Yahya), 25-46, Ann Arbor, MI: University of Michigan Press.
  • Crane, D. (2000). Fashion and its social agendas: class, gender, and identity in clothing. Chicago and London: University of Chicago Press.
  • Davis, F. (1992). Fashion, culture, and identity. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
  • Davis, L. R. (1997). The swimsuit issue and sport: Hegemonic masculinity in sports illustrated. Albany: State University of New York Press.
  • Fenton, S. (2003). Ethnicity. Cambridge: Polity Press.
  • Field, G. A. (1970). The status float phenomenon: The upward diffusion of innovation. Business Horizons, 13 (4), 45-52.
  • Foucault, M. (1978). The history of sexuality. New York: Pantheon Books.
  • Fraser, N. (1998). Social justice in the age of identity politics: Redistribution, recognition and participation., The Tanner Lectures on Human Values, Vol. XIX, (Ed. G. Peterson), 1-67, Salt Lake City: University of Utah Press.
  • Fraser, N. (2000). Rethinking recognition. New Left Review, (3), 107-120. Gallagher, A. H. - Pecot-Hebert, L. (2007). “You need a makeover!”: The social construction of female body image in “A makeover story”, "What not to wear”, and “Extreme makeover.” Popular Communication, 5 (1), 57-79.
  • Giddens, A. (2000). Siyaset, sosyoloji ve toplumsal teori. İstanbul: Metis.
  • Hamzaoğlu, M. - Konuralp, E. (2018). Türk hukuk sisteminin ‘namus’la imtihanı: Ulusal mevzuat ve uluslararası düzenlemeler açısından namus cinayetleri. Marmara Üniversitesi Kadın ve Toplumsal Cinsiyet Araştırmaları Dergisi, 2 (2), 67-83.
  • Hamzaoğlu, M. - Konuralp, E. (2019a). Geleneksel toplumlarda namus olgusu ve namus cinayeti: Türkiye örneği. İstanbul Üniversitesi Kadın Araştırmaları Dergisi, (1), 51-65.
  • Hamzaoğlu, M. - Konuralp, E. (2019b). Türkiye’de kadına karşı şiddetin sembolik ve doğrudan biçimleri: Namus olgusu ve namus cinayetleri. The Bulletin of Legal Medicine, 24 (3), 226-235.
  • HandEye. (2010). Colour and encoded meaning. Retrieved June 1, 2020, from Handeye Magazine website: http://handeyemagazine.com/content/colour-and-encoded-meaning
  • Haulotte, E. (1966). Symbolique du vêtement selon la Bible. Paris: Aubier.
  • Hirsch, E. G. - Levi, G. B. (2011). Coat. Retrieved May 31, 2020, from Jewish Encyclopedia website: http://www.jewishencyclopedia.com/articles/4427-coat
  • Hutchinson, J. (1987). The dynamics of cultural nationalism: The Gaelic revival and the creation of the Irish nation state. London: Allen & Unwin.
  • Hutchinson, J. (2005). Nations as zones of conflict. London: SAGE.
  • Isaacs, H. R. (1989). Idols of the tribe: group identity and political change. Massachusetts: Harvard University Press.
  • Jerkins, R. (2008). Social identity. Londra: Routledge.
  • Kahn, K. B. - Davies, P. G. (2017). What influences shooter bias? The effects of suspect race, neighborhood and clothing on decisions to shoot. Journal of Social Issues, 73 (4), 723-743.
  • Konuralp, E. (2017). Etnik kimliğin veçheleri ve etnisite kuramları. Kriz, Kimlik ve Ötesi, (Ed. E. B. Ateş Çiftçi), 14-16, İstanbul: İstanbul Yeni Yüzyıl Üniversitesi.
  • Konuralp, E. (2018). Kimliğin etni ve ulus arasında salınımı: Çokkültürcülük mü yeniden kabilecilik mi?. Eskişehir Osmangazi Üniversitesi İktisadi ve İdari Bilimler Dergisi, 13 (2), 133-146.
  • Konuralp, E. (2019). İspanya’da bölgeli devletin tarihsel gelişimi, yasal düzeni ve siyasal yapılanışı. Akademik İncelemeler Dergisi, 14 (1), 345-402.
  • Konuralp, E. (2020). Limits of post-secularism in Turkey: Comparing the attitudes of the Justice and Development Party towards the headscarf and Alevi issues. Religion Compass, e12352.
  • Konuralp, E. - Adaş, S. (2020). Makedonya’da isim sorunu: Yunan ve Makedon milliyetçiliklerinin kıskacında kimlik inşası. Iğdır Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, (21), 311-343.
  • Kymlicka, W. (2016). Çağdaş siyaset felsefesine giriş. (3rd ed.). İstanbul: İstanbul Bilgi Üniversitesi.
  • Laclau, E. (2000). Evrensellik, kimlik ve özgürleşme. İstanbul: Birikim.
  • Maeder, E. (1983). An elegant art: fashion & fantasy in the eighteenth century. Los: Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
  • Marshall, T. H. (1965). Class, citizenship and social development. New York: Anchor.
  • Mcdermott, L. A. - Pettijohn II, T. F. (2011). The influence of clothing fashion and race on the perceived socioeconomic status and person perception of college students. Psychology and Society, 4 (2), 64-75.
  • Özdemir, E. (2012). Kimlik. Siyaset Bilimi: Kavramlar, İdeolojiler, Disiplinler Arası İlişkiler, (Eds. G. Atılgan - A. E. Aytekin), 169-181, İstanbul: Yordam.
  • Perrot, P. (1994). Fashioning the bourgeoisie : A history of clothing in the nineteenth century. Princeton, New Jersey: Princeton University Press.
  • Polhemus, T. (1994). Street style: From sidewalk to catwalk. London: Thames and Hudson.
  • Quataert, D. (2005). The Ottoman Empire, 1700–1922. New York: Cambridge University Press.
  • Scott, J. W. (2007). The politics of the veil. Princeton, New Jersey: Princeton University Press.
  • Simmel, G. (1957). Fashion. American Journal of Sociology, 62 (6), 541–558.
  • Skeggs, B. (1993). A good time for women only. Deconstructing Madonna, (Ed. F. Lloyd), 128, London: Batsford.
  • Smith, A. D. (2007). Epilogue: The power of ethnic traditions in the modern world. Nationalism and Ethnosymbolism: History, Culture and Ethnicity in the Formation of Nations, (Eds. A. S. Leoussi - S. Grosby), 325-336, Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press.
  • Smith, A. D. (2016). Ethnosymbolism. The Wiley Blackwell Encyclopedia of Race, Ethnicity, and Nationalism. John Wiley & Sons.
  • Taylor, C. (2011). Why we need a radical redefinition of secularism?. The Power of Religion in the Public Sphere, (Eds. E. Mendieta - J. VanAntwerpen), 34-59, New York: Columbia University Press.
  • Tocqueville, A. de. (2016). Democracy in America: A new abridgment for students (Ed. J. D. Wilsey). Bellingham, WA: Lexham Press.
  • Tvedtnes, J. A. (1994). Priestly clothing in Bible times. Temples of the Ancient World: Ritual and Symbolism, (Ed. D. W. Parry), 649-704, Provo, UT: Deseret Book Company.
  • Veblen, T. (1894). The economic theory of woman’s dress. The Popular Science Monthly, 46, 198–205.
  • Young, I. M. (1989). Polity and group difference: A critique of the ideal of universal citizenship. Ethics, 99 (2), 250-274.
There are 56 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language English
Subjects Sociology of Migration, Ethnicity and Multiculturalism
Journal Section Articles
Authors

Mehmet Ada Özdil 0000-0003-1793-7441

Publication Date March 15, 2021
Submission Date January 25, 2021
Published in Issue Year 2021 Volume: 14 Issue: 33

Cite

APA Özdil, M. A. (2021). THE EFFECT OF CLOTHING AS A MARKER ON IDENTITY. Motif Akademi Halkbilimi Dergisi, 14(33), 117-130. https://doi.org/10.12981/mahder.867867