@article{article_1642561, title={EVALUATING CLIMBING KNOT SAFETY: A THREE-PHASE TESTING PROTOCOL PRIORITIZING SECURITY}, journal={Uluslararası Dağcılık ve Tırmanış Dergisi}, volume={8}, pages={29–45}, year={2025}, DOI={10.36415/dagcilik.1642561}, author={Chisnall, Robert}, keywords={Safety Knots, Testing, Climbing Accidents, Tier Behaviour, Bias and Error}, abstract={Abstract Knot performance depends on structural nuances and the tying material’s properties. Accidents are typically the result of security issues caused by faulty knots, improper applications and tying errors. A three-phase evaluation protocol is recommended. Phase I prioritizes bend and loop security by mathematically modelling topological twist fluctuation and circulation energies. Pull tests utilize tying material with no surface asperities, a low coefficient of friction and poor knottability to assess structural performance. Irregular loading is employed to determine capsizement potential under unusual conditions. Cyclic loading tests may be required depending on knot function. Stopper knots and hitches must be evaluated with application-specific methods. Tensile strength tests finish phase I, and data should be analysed with a probability density function because knot efficiency is directly immeasurable. Phase II is devoted to functionality and characteristics of convenience. Phase III evaluates behavioural issues such as ease of teaching, learning, recall and error detection.}, number={1}, publisher={Türkiye Dağcılık Federasyonu}, organization={None}