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Skin Whiteners An Overview

Yıl 2017, Cilt: 21 Sayı: 1, 48 - 53, 08.09.2016
https://doi.org/10.12991/marupj.259880

Öz

It has known that the demand for
skin whitening application has  increased
in the world and use of systemic or locally effective  skin whitening products, whether for
lightening natural skin  color or to
remove dark spots caused by a variety of reasons.  Hyperpigmentation which is darkening of skin
color known  that can be caused by
exposure to sun/UV rays, various  chemicals
(drug, cosmetics, etc.), certain diseases, mechanical  trauma, chemical peels, laser applications,
and in response  to acne or some skin
diseases. After examining the reasons  of
hyperpigmentation, the following may be applied for the  removal; the use of products intended for
depigmentation,  chemical peelings,
cryoscopy, laser treatment or surgery. The 
active compounds for depigmentation can be grouped according  to their mechanism of action as the ones
effective during premelanin  synthesis,
during melanin synthesis, after the melanin 
synthesis and others. When the skin whitening active ingredients  and formulations examined structurally it is
seen that they are  appiled as
pharmaceutical forms of dermal preparations (creams,  emulsions, gels, solutions, etc.) or oral
preparations (capsule,  tablet, etc.) of
biotechnological, botanical or chemical originated  actives. In recent years it is seen that
these actives are prepared  by utilising
nanotechnology and pharmaceutical carriers 
(nanoemulsions, nanospheres, nanocapsules, nanosomes, solid  lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid
carriers, niosomes,  ethozomes, liposomes,
etc.) and launched to the market in the  category
of drug, cosmetic or food in accordance with the scope  of the international legal differences.  

Kaynakça

  • KAYNAKLAR
  • Seiberg M, Paine C, Sharlow E, Andrade-Gordon P, Costanzo M, Eisinger M, Shapiro SS. Inhibition of mela-nosomes transfer results in skin lightening. J Invest Dermatol 2000; 115: 162-7.
  • Street JC, Gaska K, Lewis KM, Wilson ML.. African Safety Promotion: A Journal of Injury and Violence Prevention, 2014; 12(1): 52-71.
  • Cruz GV, Mullet E. The impact of skin tone on perceived facial beauty: A two-culture study. Psicológica, 2014; 35(3): 729-43.
  • Alğın Yapar E. Kozmetovijilans ve küresel yaklaşımlar. Clin Exp Health Sci 2016; 6(2): 93-7.
  • Chohan SN, Suhail M, Salman S, Bajwa UM, Saeed M, Kausar S, Suhail, T. Facial abuse of topical steroids and fairness creams: a clinical study of 200 patients. J Pakistan Assoc Dermatol 2014; 24(3): 204-211.
  • Malathi M, Thappa DM. Systemic skin whitening/lightening agents: what is the evidence? Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol 2013; 79(6): 842-6.
  • Mire A. The scientification of skin whitening and the entrepreneurial university-linked corporate scientific officer. Canadian J Sci Math Tech Edu 2012; 12(3): 272-91.
  • Hakozaki T, Takiwaki H, Miyamoto K, Sato Y, Arase S. Ultrasound enhanced skin-lightening effect of vitamin C and niacinamide. Skin Res Technol 2006; 12(2): 105-13.
  • John S, Lorenz, P, Petersen RD, Heldermann, M, Borchert, S. Skin-lightening agent with different pathways of action on melanogenesis. SOFW Journal 2005; 131(7): 40-9.
  • Rawlings AV. Ethnic skin types: are there differences in skin structure and function? Int J Cosmet Sci 2006; 28(2): 79-93.
  • Gillbro JM, Olsson MJ. The melanogenesis and mechanisms of skin-lightening agents – existing and new approaches. Int J Cosmet Sci 2011; 33(3): 210–21.
  • Parvez S, Kang M, Chung HS, Cho C, Hong MC, Shin MK, Bae H. Survey and mechanism of skin depigmenting and lightening agents. Pyhtother Res 2006; 20(11): 921-34.
  • Yamaguchi Y, Brenner M, Hearing VJ. The regulation of skin pigmentation. J Biol Chem 2007; 282(38): 27557–61.
  • Coelho SG, Zhou Y, Bushar HF, Miller SA, Zmudzka BZ, Hearing VJ, Beer JZ. Long-lasting pigmentation of human skin, a new look at an overlooked response to UV. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res 2009; 22(2): 238–41.
  • Kamakshi R. Fairness via formulations: a review of cosmetic skin-lightening ingredients. J Cosmet Sci 2011; 63(1): 43-54.
  • Perez-Bernal A, Munoz-Perez MA, Camacho F. Management of facial hyperpigmentation. Am J Clin Dermatol 2000; 1(5): 261-8.
  • Rigopoulos D, Gregoriou S, Katsambas A. Hyperpigmentation and melasma. J Cosmet Dermatol 2007; 6 (3): 195-202.
  • Korkmaz S, Erturan I. Hiperpigmentasyon tedavisi ve yeni yaklaşımlar. Turkiye Klinikleri J Dermatol 2010; 20 (1): 14-22.
  • Kılınç, UDF, Metin A. Yüzün hiperpigmentasyon hastalıkları. Dermatoz 2011; 2(1): 245-53.
  • Briganti S, Camera E, Picardo M. Chemical and intrumental approaches to treat hyperpigmentation. Pigment Cell Res 2003; 16(2): 101-10.
  • Jadoon S, Karim S, Bin Asad MH, Akram MR, Khan AK, Malik A, Chen C, Murtaza G. Anti-aging potential of phytoextract loaded-pharmaceutical creams for human skin cell longetivity. Oxid Med Cell Longev 2015; 709628; 1-17.
  • Boonme P, Junyaprasert VB, Suksawad N, Songkro S. Microemulsions and nanoemulsions: novel vehicles for whitening cosmeceuticals. J Biomed Nanotech 2009; 5(4): 373-83.
  • Li D, Wu Z, Martini N, Wen J. Advanced carrier systems in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals: a review. J Cosmet Sci 2011; 62: 549-63.
  • Dave V, Pareek A, Paliwal S. Ethosome: a novel approach of transdermal drug delivery system. IJARPB 2012; 2(4): 439-52.
  • Fairhurst D, Loxley A. Micro- and nano-encapsulation of water- and oil-soluble actives for cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. In: Wiechers JW, editor. Science and Applications of Skin Delivery Systems. Allured Publishing Corporation; Carol Stream, IL, USA: 2008. pp. 313–336.
  • Dinarvand R, Rahmani E, Farbod E. Gelatin microspheres for the controlled release of all-trans-retinoic acid topical formulation and drug delivery evaluation. IJPR 2010; 2(1): 47-50.
  • Errico C, Gazzarri M, Chiellini F. A novel method for the preparation of retinoic acid-loaded nanoparticles. Int J Mol Sci 2009; 10(5), 2336-47.
  • Müller RH, Radtke M, Wissing SA. Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) in cosmetic and dermatological preparations. Adv Drug Deliv Rev 2002; 54(1): 131-55.
  • Jurkovic P, Sentjurc M, Gasperlin M, Kristl J, Pecar S. Skin protection against ultraviolet induced free radicals with ascorbyl palmitate in microemulsions. Eur J Pharm Biopharm 2003; 56(1): 59-66.
  • Petit, JLV, Gonzalez RD, Botello AF. U.S. Patent Application No. 13/848,558, 2013.
  • Sharma B, Sharma A. Future prospect of nanotechnology in development of anti-ageing formulations. Int J Pharm&Pharm Sci 2012; 4: 57-66.
  • Huh SY, Shin JW, Na JI, Huh CH, Youn SW, Park KC. Efficacy and safety of liposome‐encapsulated 4‐n‐butylresorcinol 0.1% cream for the treatment of melasma: A randomized controlled split‐face trial. J Dermatol 2010; 37(4): 311-5.
  • Esposito E, Menegatti E, Cortesi R. Ethosomes and liposomes as topical vehicles for azelaic acid: a preformulation study. J Cosmet Sci 2004; 55(3): 253-64.
  • Burchacka E, Potaczek P, Paduszyński P, Karłowicz-Bodalska K, Han T, Han S. New effective azelaic acid liposomal gel formulation of enhanced pharmaceutical bioavailabilty. Biomed Pharmacother 2016; 83: 771-5.
  • Aparajita V, Ravikumar P. Liposomes as carriers in skin ageing. Int J Curr Pharm Res 2014; 6(3): 1-7.
  • Bhalerao SS, Raje Harshal A. Preparation, optimization, characterization, and stability studies of salicylic acid liposomes. Drug Dev Ind Pharm 2003; 29(4): 451-67.
  • Huh SY, Shin J-W, Na J-I, Huh C-H, Youn S-W, Park K-C. The efficacy and safety of 4-n-butylresorcinol 0.1% cream for the treatment of melasma:a randomized controlled split-face trial. Ann Dermatol 2010; 22(1): 21-5.
  • Wen AH, Choi MK, Kim DD. Formulation of liposome for topical delivery of arbutin. Arch Pharm Res 2006; 29(12): 1187-92.
  • Shigeta Y, Imanaka H, Ando H, Ryu A, Oku N, Baba N, Makino T. Skin whitening effect of linoleic acid is enhanced by liposomal formulations. Biol Pharm Bull 2004; 27(4): 591-4.
  • Teeranachaideekul V, Mülle, RH, Junyaprasert VB. Encapsulation of ascorbylpalmitate in nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC)-effects of formulation parameters on physicochemical stability. Int J Pharm 2007; 340(1-2): 198–206.
  • Jenning V, Gohla SH. Encapsulation of retinoids in solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN). J Microencapsul 2001; 18(2): 149-58.
  • Tsujimoto H, Hara K. Application 21-development of functional skincare cosmetics using biodegradable PLGA nanospheres. In: Nanoparticle Technology Handbook. Editors: Hosokawa M, Nogi K, Naito M, Yokoyama T. Elsevier B.V., Oxford UK. 2012, pp. 501-6.
  • Ourique AF, Pohlmann AR, Guterres SS, Beck RC. Tretinoin-loaded nanocapsules: Preparation, physicochemical characterization, and photostability study. Int J Pharm 2008; 352(1-2): 1–4.

Cilt Beyazlatıcılara Genel Bakış

Yıl 2017, Cilt: 21 Sayı: 1, 48 - 53, 08.09.2016
https://doi.org/10.12991/marupj.259880

Öz

Dünyada cilt beyazlatma uygulamalarına talebin arttığı ve gerek doğal cilt renginin açılması gerekse çeşitli nedenlerle oluşan lekelerin giderilmesi amacıyla sistemik veya lokal etkili cilt beyazlatıcı ürünlerin kullanıldığı bilinmektedir. Deri renginde koyulaşma olan hiperpigmentasyonun güneş/UV ışınlarına, çeşitli kimyasal maddelere (ilaç, kozmetik vd.) maruz kalma ya da bazı hastalıklar nedeniyle meydana gelebildiği ayrıca mekanik travma, kimyasal soyma, lazer uygulamaları, akne veya bazı deri hastalıklarına cevaben oluşabildiği bilinmektedir. Hiperpigmentasyona bağlı cilt lekelerinin giderilmesinde nedeninin incelenmesinden sonra depigmentasyona yönelik ürün kullanımı, kimyasal soyma, kriyoskopi, lazer uygulaması veya cerrahi işlem gerekebilmektedir. Depigmentasyona yönelik aktif bileşikler etki mekanizmalarına göre melanin sentezi öncesi melanin sentezi sırasında, melanin sentezi sonrasında etkili olanlar ve diğerleri olarak gruplandırılabilmektedir. Cilt beyazlatıcı aktif bileşenler ve formülasyonlar yapısal olarak incelendiğinde biyoteknolojik, botanik veya kimyasal kökenli bileşiklerin farmasötik şekil olarak dermal uygulanan preparatlar (krem, emülsiyon, jel, solüsyon vb.) veya oral olarak alınan preparatlar (kapsül, tablet vd.) halinde son yıllarda nanoteknoloji ve farmasötik taşıyıcılardan (nanoemülsiyon, nanoküre, nanokapsül, nanozom, katı lipit nanopartikül, nano yapılı lipit taşıyıcılar, niozom, etozom, lipozom, vd.) yararlanılarak hazırlandığı uluslararası yasal farklılıklar doğrultusunda ilaç, kozmetik veya gıda kategorisinde piyasaya sunulduğu görülmektedir.

Kaynakça

  • KAYNAKLAR
  • Seiberg M, Paine C, Sharlow E, Andrade-Gordon P, Costanzo M, Eisinger M, Shapiro SS. Inhibition of mela-nosomes transfer results in skin lightening. J Invest Dermatol 2000; 115: 162-7.
  • Street JC, Gaska K, Lewis KM, Wilson ML.. African Safety Promotion: A Journal of Injury and Violence Prevention, 2014; 12(1): 52-71.
  • Cruz GV, Mullet E. The impact of skin tone on perceived facial beauty: A two-culture study. Psicológica, 2014; 35(3): 729-43.
  • Alğın Yapar E. Kozmetovijilans ve küresel yaklaşımlar. Clin Exp Health Sci 2016; 6(2): 93-7.
  • Chohan SN, Suhail M, Salman S, Bajwa UM, Saeed M, Kausar S, Suhail, T. Facial abuse of topical steroids and fairness creams: a clinical study of 200 patients. J Pakistan Assoc Dermatol 2014; 24(3): 204-211.
  • Malathi M, Thappa DM. Systemic skin whitening/lightening agents: what is the evidence? Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol 2013; 79(6): 842-6.
  • Mire A. The scientification of skin whitening and the entrepreneurial university-linked corporate scientific officer. Canadian J Sci Math Tech Edu 2012; 12(3): 272-91.
  • Hakozaki T, Takiwaki H, Miyamoto K, Sato Y, Arase S. Ultrasound enhanced skin-lightening effect of vitamin C and niacinamide. Skin Res Technol 2006; 12(2): 105-13.
  • John S, Lorenz, P, Petersen RD, Heldermann, M, Borchert, S. Skin-lightening agent with different pathways of action on melanogenesis. SOFW Journal 2005; 131(7): 40-9.
  • Rawlings AV. Ethnic skin types: are there differences in skin structure and function? Int J Cosmet Sci 2006; 28(2): 79-93.
  • Gillbro JM, Olsson MJ. The melanogenesis and mechanisms of skin-lightening agents – existing and new approaches. Int J Cosmet Sci 2011; 33(3): 210–21.
  • Parvez S, Kang M, Chung HS, Cho C, Hong MC, Shin MK, Bae H. Survey and mechanism of skin depigmenting and lightening agents. Pyhtother Res 2006; 20(11): 921-34.
  • Yamaguchi Y, Brenner M, Hearing VJ. The regulation of skin pigmentation. J Biol Chem 2007; 282(38): 27557–61.
  • Coelho SG, Zhou Y, Bushar HF, Miller SA, Zmudzka BZ, Hearing VJ, Beer JZ. Long-lasting pigmentation of human skin, a new look at an overlooked response to UV. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res 2009; 22(2): 238–41.
  • Kamakshi R. Fairness via formulations: a review of cosmetic skin-lightening ingredients. J Cosmet Sci 2011; 63(1): 43-54.
  • Perez-Bernal A, Munoz-Perez MA, Camacho F. Management of facial hyperpigmentation. Am J Clin Dermatol 2000; 1(5): 261-8.
  • Rigopoulos D, Gregoriou S, Katsambas A. Hyperpigmentation and melasma. J Cosmet Dermatol 2007; 6 (3): 195-202.
  • Korkmaz S, Erturan I. Hiperpigmentasyon tedavisi ve yeni yaklaşımlar. Turkiye Klinikleri J Dermatol 2010; 20 (1): 14-22.
  • Kılınç, UDF, Metin A. Yüzün hiperpigmentasyon hastalıkları. Dermatoz 2011; 2(1): 245-53.
  • Briganti S, Camera E, Picardo M. Chemical and intrumental approaches to treat hyperpigmentation. Pigment Cell Res 2003; 16(2): 101-10.
  • Jadoon S, Karim S, Bin Asad MH, Akram MR, Khan AK, Malik A, Chen C, Murtaza G. Anti-aging potential of phytoextract loaded-pharmaceutical creams for human skin cell longetivity. Oxid Med Cell Longev 2015; 709628; 1-17.
  • Boonme P, Junyaprasert VB, Suksawad N, Songkro S. Microemulsions and nanoemulsions: novel vehicles for whitening cosmeceuticals. J Biomed Nanotech 2009; 5(4): 373-83.
  • Li D, Wu Z, Martini N, Wen J. Advanced carrier systems in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals: a review. J Cosmet Sci 2011; 62: 549-63.
  • Dave V, Pareek A, Paliwal S. Ethosome: a novel approach of transdermal drug delivery system. IJARPB 2012; 2(4): 439-52.
  • Fairhurst D, Loxley A. Micro- and nano-encapsulation of water- and oil-soluble actives for cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. In: Wiechers JW, editor. Science and Applications of Skin Delivery Systems. Allured Publishing Corporation; Carol Stream, IL, USA: 2008. pp. 313–336.
  • Dinarvand R, Rahmani E, Farbod E. Gelatin microspheres for the controlled release of all-trans-retinoic acid topical formulation and drug delivery evaluation. IJPR 2010; 2(1): 47-50.
  • Errico C, Gazzarri M, Chiellini F. A novel method for the preparation of retinoic acid-loaded nanoparticles. Int J Mol Sci 2009; 10(5), 2336-47.
  • Müller RH, Radtke M, Wissing SA. Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) in cosmetic and dermatological preparations. Adv Drug Deliv Rev 2002; 54(1): 131-55.
  • Jurkovic P, Sentjurc M, Gasperlin M, Kristl J, Pecar S. Skin protection against ultraviolet induced free radicals with ascorbyl palmitate in microemulsions. Eur J Pharm Biopharm 2003; 56(1): 59-66.
  • Petit, JLV, Gonzalez RD, Botello AF. U.S. Patent Application No. 13/848,558, 2013.
  • Sharma B, Sharma A. Future prospect of nanotechnology in development of anti-ageing formulations. Int J Pharm&Pharm Sci 2012; 4: 57-66.
  • Huh SY, Shin JW, Na JI, Huh CH, Youn SW, Park KC. Efficacy and safety of liposome‐encapsulated 4‐n‐butylresorcinol 0.1% cream for the treatment of melasma: A randomized controlled split‐face trial. J Dermatol 2010; 37(4): 311-5.
  • Esposito E, Menegatti E, Cortesi R. Ethosomes and liposomes as topical vehicles for azelaic acid: a preformulation study. J Cosmet Sci 2004; 55(3): 253-64.
  • Burchacka E, Potaczek P, Paduszyński P, Karłowicz-Bodalska K, Han T, Han S. New effective azelaic acid liposomal gel formulation of enhanced pharmaceutical bioavailabilty. Biomed Pharmacother 2016; 83: 771-5.
  • Aparajita V, Ravikumar P. Liposomes as carriers in skin ageing. Int J Curr Pharm Res 2014; 6(3): 1-7.
  • Bhalerao SS, Raje Harshal A. Preparation, optimization, characterization, and stability studies of salicylic acid liposomes. Drug Dev Ind Pharm 2003; 29(4): 451-67.
  • Huh SY, Shin J-W, Na J-I, Huh C-H, Youn S-W, Park K-C. The efficacy and safety of 4-n-butylresorcinol 0.1% cream for the treatment of melasma:a randomized controlled split-face trial. Ann Dermatol 2010; 22(1): 21-5.
  • Wen AH, Choi MK, Kim DD. Formulation of liposome for topical delivery of arbutin. Arch Pharm Res 2006; 29(12): 1187-92.
  • Shigeta Y, Imanaka H, Ando H, Ryu A, Oku N, Baba N, Makino T. Skin whitening effect of linoleic acid is enhanced by liposomal formulations. Biol Pharm Bull 2004; 27(4): 591-4.
  • Teeranachaideekul V, Mülle, RH, Junyaprasert VB. Encapsulation of ascorbylpalmitate in nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC)-effects of formulation parameters on physicochemical stability. Int J Pharm 2007; 340(1-2): 198–206.
  • Jenning V, Gohla SH. Encapsulation of retinoids in solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN). J Microencapsul 2001; 18(2): 149-58.
  • Tsujimoto H, Hara K. Application 21-development of functional skincare cosmetics using biodegradable PLGA nanospheres. In: Nanoparticle Technology Handbook. Editors: Hosokawa M, Nogi K, Naito M, Yokoyama T. Elsevier B.V., Oxford UK. 2012, pp. 501-6.
  • Ourique AF, Pohlmann AR, Guterres SS, Beck RC. Tretinoin-loaded nanocapsules: Preparation, physicochemical characterization, and photostability study. Int J Pharm 2008; 352(1-2): 1–4.
Toplam 44 adet kaynakça vardır.

Ayrıntılar

Konular Sağlık Kurumları Yönetimi
Bölüm Makaleler
Yazarlar

Evren Alğın Yapar

Yayımlanma Tarihi 8 Eylül 2016
Yayımlandığı Sayı Yıl 2017 Cilt: 21 Sayı: 1

Kaynak Göster

APA Alğın Yapar, E. (2016). Skin Whiteners An Overview. Marmara Pharmaceutical Journal, 21(1), 48-53. https://doi.org/10.12991/marupj.259880
AMA Alğın Yapar E. Skin Whiteners An Overview. mpj. Eylül 2016;21(1):48-53. doi:10.12991/marupj.259880
Chicago Alğın Yapar, Evren. “Skin Whiteners An Overview”. Marmara Pharmaceutical Journal 21, sy. 1 (Eylül 2016): 48-53. https://doi.org/10.12991/marupj.259880.
EndNote Alğın Yapar E (01 Eylül 2016) Skin Whiteners An Overview. Marmara Pharmaceutical Journal 21 1 48–53.
IEEE E. Alğın Yapar, “Skin Whiteners An Overview”, mpj, c. 21, sy. 1, ss. 48–53, 2016, doi: 10.12991/marupj.259880.
ISNAD Alğın Yapar, Evren. “Skin Whiteners An Overview”. Marmara Pharmaceutical Journal 21/1 (Eylül 2016), 48-53. https://doi.org/10.12991/marupj.259880.
JAMA Alğın Yapar E. Skin Whiteners An Overview. mpj. 2016;21:48–53.
MLA Alğın Yapar, Evren. “Skin Whiteners An Overview”. Marmara Pharmaceutical Journal, c. 21, sy. 1, 2016, ss. 48-53, doi:10.12991/marupj.259880.
Vancouver Alğın Yapar E. Skin Whiteners An Overview. mpj. 2016;21(1):48-53.