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AN INVESTIGATION OF FABRIC PROPERTIES AND NEEDLE PENETRATION FORCE DURING TAILORING

Year 2016, Volume: 26 Issue: 1, 100 - 108, 01.06.2016

Abstract

Fabrics are the raw material used in clothing production and vary in weave structure, weight, yarn properties, tensile strength and physical-mechanical properties. Together with sewing parameters, fabric properties determine seam quality. Needle penetration force is a dynamic phenomenon and represents quantitative measure of the fabric damage, where a high value of needle penetration force is associated with high risk of fabric damage. In the present study woven fabrics used for tailoring jackets and blazers, were analyzed regarding their physico-mechanical and physical-mechanical properties using the FAST system. Needle penetration force was measured on the ITV measuring system. The aim of the study was first to examine the fabric properties of two basic weave patterns and to discover needle penetration forces based on the selected needle shape and size that could be used in commercial tailorability process. Then, factor analytic technique was used to detect structure between tested variables. The three independent extracted factors were assigned as needle penetration force, physical and mechanical fabric properties and fabric density. Results shoewed that fabric weight and strenght has influence on needle penetration force, whereas physical-mechanical properties, except from extensibility do not have an influence

References

  • 1. Ly, N. G. 2011, “Simple Instruments for Quality Control by Finishers and Tailors”, Textile Research Journal, 6, pp. 402-406.
  • 2. Hunter, L., and Fan J., 2004, “Fabric Properties Related to Clothing Appearance” In: “Clothing appearance and fit: Science and technology”, Woodhead Publishing, Boca Raton, pp. 89-111.
  • 3. Li, Y., and Dai, X-Q, 2006, “Fabrics” In: “Biomechanical Engineering of Textiles and Clothing”, Woodhead Publishing, 199-221.
  • 4. Geršak, J., 1997, “Objektivno vrednovanje fiksiranih dijelova odjeće”, Tekstil, 46(4), 193-203.
  • 5. Behera, B. K., Hari, P. K., 1994, “Fabric Quality Evaluation by Objective Measurement“, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 19, 168-171.
  • 6. Hursa, A., Rogale, D., Geršak, J., 1998, “FAST mjerni sustav za objektivno vrednovanje mehaničkih i fizikalnih svojstava”, Tekstil, 47(8) 401- 408.
  • 7. Zavec Pavlinić, D., Geršak, J., 1997, “Vrednovanje kakvoće izgleda odjeće,” Tekstil, 46(4) 193-203.
  • 8. Geršak, J., 2013, “Planning and Organisation of Clothing Production in Design and Clothing Manufacturing Processes”, Woodhead Publishing, Philadelphia, 87-103.
  • 9. Abdul Ghani, S., 2011, “Seam Performance Analysis and Modelling”, Ph.D. Thesis, University of Manchester, United Kingdon.
  • 10. Tokmak, O., Berkalp, O., and Geršak, J., 2010, “Investigation of the Mechanics and Performance of Woven Fabrics using Objective Evaluation Techniques. Part I: The Relationship Between FAST, KES-F and Cusick’s Drape-Meter Parameters”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 79(2) pp. 55-59
  • 11. Zavec Pavlinic, D., Geršak, J., Demšar, J., and Bratko I., 2006, “Predicting Seam Appearance Quality” Textile Research Journal, 76(3) 235–242.
  • 12. Behera, BK., 2015, “Role of Fabric Properties in the Clothing-manufacturing Process” in Garment Manufacturing Technology, Woodhead Publishing, 59- 80.
  • 13. Yildiz, E. Z., Pamuk, O. and Öndoğan, Z., 2011, “A Study about the Effects of Interlinings to Sewability Properties of the Woven Fabrics”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 1 87-90.
  • 14. Stylious, G., 1987, “A study of Problems Associated with Fabric Sewing in Commercial Garment Manufacture”, Ph.D. Thesis, University of Leeds.
  • 15. Gurarda, A., and Meric, B., 2007, “The Effects of Elastane Yarn Type and Fabric Density on Sewing Needle Penetration Forces and Seam Damage of PET/Elastane Woven Fabrics”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 63(4) 73-76.
  • 16. Ujević, D., Rogale, D., Kartal, M., and Blobašić Šajatović, B., 2008, “Impact of Sewing Needle and Thread on the Technological Process of Sewing Knitwear”, Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 69(4) pp. 85-89.
  • 17. Domjanić, Ž., Ujević, D., Rogina-car, B., and Brlobašić Šajatović, B., 2011, “Analysis of the Impact of the Sewing Needle Selection on the Quality of Women's Lingerie”, 3rd Edition of the International Conference on Intelligent Textiles & Mass Customisation (ITMC'2011): proceedings / Lahlou, Mohamed; Koncar, Vladan (ur.). - Morocco: ESITH Casablanca, ENSAIT Roubaix, 1-8.
  • 18. Mazari, A., Havelka A., and Hes, L., 2014, “Experimental Techniques for the Measuring Sewing Needle Temperature”, Tekstil ve Konfeksyon, 24(1) 111- 118.
  • 19. Dal, V., Ertinmaz Yargici, M., Salman, S., 2014 “Analyzing the Effects of Sewing Machine Needle Coating Materials on the Needle's Heating during Sewing”, Tekstil ve Konfeksyon, 24(4) 393-398.
  • 20. Hunter, L., and Hunter, E. L., 2009, “Handle and Making-up Performance of Fabrics and Garments” in Engineering apparel fabrics and garments, Woodhead Publishing in Textiles, 33-37.

DİKİM ESNASINDA OLUŞAN İĞNE BATIŞ KUVVETİ VE KUMAŞ ÖZELLİKLERININ İNCELENMESİ

Year 2016, Volume: 26 Issue: 1, 100 - 108, 01.06.2016

Abstract

References

  • 1. Ly, N. G. 2011, “Simple Instruments for Quality Control by Finishers and Tailors”, Textile Research Journal, 6, pp. 402-406.
  • 2. Hunter, L., and Fan J., 2004, “Fabric Properties Related to Clothing Appearance” In: “Clothing appearance and fit: Science and technology”, Woodhead Publishing, Boca Raton, pp. 89-111.
  • 3. Li, Y., and Dai, X-Q, 2006, “Fabrics” In: “Biomechanical Engineering of Textiles and Clothing”, Woodhead Publishing, 199-221.
  • 4. Geršak, J., 1997, “Objektivno vrednovanje fiksiranih dijelova odjeće”, Tekstil, 46(4), 193-203.
  • 5. Behera, B. K., Hari, P. K., 1994, “Fabric Quality Evaluation by Objective Measurement“, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 19, 168-171.
  • 6. Hursa, A., Rogale, D., Geršak, J., 1998, “FAST mjerni sustav za objektivno vrednovanje mehaničkih i fizikalnih svojstava”, Tekstil, 47(8) 401- 408.
  • 7. Zavec Pavlinić, D., Geršak, J., 1997, “Vrednovanje kakvoće izgleda odjeće,” Tekstil, 46(4) 193-203.
  • 8. Geršak, J., 2013, “Planning and Organisation of Clothing Production in Design and Clothing Manufacturing Processes”, Woodhead Publishing, Philadelphia, 87-103.
  • 9. Abdul Ghani, S., 2011, “Seam Performance Analysis and Modelling”, Ph.D. Thesis, University of Manchester, United Kingdon.
  • 10. Tokmak, O., Berkalp, O., and Geršak, J., 2010, “Investigation of the Mechanics and Performance of Woven Fabrics using Objective Evaluation Techniques. Part I: The Relationship Between FAST, KES-F and Cusick’s Drape-Meter Parameters”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 79(2) pp. 55-59
  • 11. Zavec Pavlinic, D., Geršak, J., Demšar, J., and Bratko I., 2006, “Predicting Seam Appearance Quality” Textile Research Journal, 76(3) 235–242.
  • 12. Behera, BK., 2015, “Role of Fabric Properties in the Clothing-manufacturing Process” in Garment Manufacturing Technology, Woodhead Publishing, 59- 80.
  • 13. Yildiz, E. Z., Pamuk, O. and Öndoğan, Z., 2011, “A Study about the Effects of Interlinings to Sewability Properties of the Woven Fabrics”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 1 87-90.
  • 14. Stylious, G., 1987, “A study of Problems Associated with Fabric Sewing in Commercial Garment Manufacture”, Ph.D. Thesis, University of Leeds.
  • 15. Gurarda, A., and Meric, B., 2007, “The Effects of Elastane Yarn Type and Fabric Density on Sewing Needle Penetration Forces and Seam Damage of PET/Elastane Woven Fabrics”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 63(4) 73-76.
  • 16. Ujević, D., Rogale, D., Kartal, M., and Blobašić Šajatović, B., 2008, “Impact of Sewing Needle and Thread on the Technological Process of Sewing Knitwear”, Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 69(4) pp. 85-89.
  • 17. Domjanić, Ž., Ujević, D., Rogina-car, B., and Brlobašić Šajatović, B., 2011, “Analysis of the Impact of the Sewing Needle Selection on the Quality of Women's Lingerie”, 3rd Edition of the International Conference on Intelligent Textiles & Mass Customisation (ITMC'2011): proceedings / Lahlou, Mohamed; Koncar, Vladan (ur.). - Morocco: ESITH Casablanca, ENSAIT Roubaix, 1-8.
  • 18. Mazari, A., Havelka A., and Hes, L., 2014, “Experimental Techniques for the Measuring Sewing Needle Temperature”, Tekstil ve Konfeksyon, 24(1) 111- 118.
  • 19. Dal, V., Ertinmaz Yargici, M., Salman, S., 2014 “Analyzing the Effects of Sewing Machine Needle Coating Materials on the Needle's Heating during Sewing”, Tekstil ve Konfeksyon, 24(4) 393-398.
  • 20. Hunter, L., and Hunter, E. L., 2009, “Handle and Making-up Performance of Fabrics and Garments” in Engineering apparel fabrics and garments, Woodhead Publishing in Textiles, 33-37.
There are 20 citations in total.

Details

Other ID JA89FF93BT
Journal Section Articles
Authors

Jacqueline Domjanıć This is me

Stana Kovačevıć This is me

Darko Ujevıć This is me

Publication Date June 1, 2016
Submission Date June 1, 2016
Published in Issue Year 2016 Volume: 26 Issue: 1

Cite

APA Domjanıć, J., Kovačevıć, S., & Ujevıć, D. (2016). AN INVESTIGATION OF FABRIC PROPERTIES AND NEEDLE PENETRATION FORCE DURING TAILORING. Textile and Apparel, 26(1), 100-108.

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