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EFFECT OF FINISHING TECHNIQUES ON SOME PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF SHOE UPPER LEATHERS

Yıl 2017, Cilt: 27 Sayı: 2, 198 - 203, 30.06.2017

Öz

Aniline, pigmented and patent finishing are the common techniques used for the production of shoe upper leathers. These different finishing types applied to shoe upper leathers have affected the physical and functional properties as well as the comfort and visual characteristics of the leathers. To evaluate the effects of different finishing types on physical characteristics of shoe upper leathers, calf and goat leathers were used in the study. The water vapor permeability, air permeability and thermal resistance tests of aniline, pigmented and patent finished leathers were performed prior and after the finishing processes for the determination of comport properties of upper leathers. For the morphological characterization, Table Top Scanning Electron Microscopy (TSEM) was used. The water vapor and air permeability values were found significantly high prior to finishing process, however lower results were determined after the applications. The only statistically significant effect was found for the water vapor permeability, although no significant difference was observed for the other physical test values.

Kaynakça

  • 1. Sarı Ö., 1983, “The wear physiology properties of wool products and their importance”, The Journal of Ege University Faculty of Agriculture, 20(3),101- 122.
  • 2. Seventekin N., 1988, “The role of the textile materials on the regulation of human body temperature”, Textile and Machinery, 11(2), 246-250.
  • 3. Huang J., 2006, “Thermal parameters for assessing thermal properties of clothing”, Journal of Thermal Biology, 31, 461-466.
  • 4. Zhang P. and Gong R.H., 2001, “Clothing air permeability and moisture regain on human thermal regulation during exercise”, Texnitex 2001 Autex Conference, The University of Minho, Portugal, 216-226.
  • 5. Ertekin G., Oglakcıoğlu N., Marmarali A., Eser B. and Pamuk M., 2015, “Thermal transmission attributes of knitted structures produced by using engineered yarns”, Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 10(4),73-78.
  • 6. Oglakcioğlu N. and Marmarali A., 2007, “Thermal comfort properties of some knitted structures”, Fibers and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 15 (5–6), 64–65.
  • 7. Oglakcioglu N. and Kyosev Y., 2011, “About the computation of the effective thermal resistance of weft knitted structures”, Proceedings of 5th Aachen- Dresden International Textile Congress, Aachen, Germany, 24-25 November 2011, 1-4.
  • 8. Ongel K. and Mergen H., 2009, “Review of literature about the effects of thermal comfort parameters on human body”, Medical Journal of Süleyman Demirel University, 16(1), 25-26.
  • 9. Elahi Mangat A., Bajzik V., Hes L. and Büyük Mazari F., 2015, “The use of artificial neural networks to estimate thermal resistance of knitted fabrics”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 25(4), 304-312.
  • 10. Boguslawska Baczek M. and Hes L., 2014, “Thermal conductivity and resistance of nomex fabrics exposed to salty water”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 24(2), 180-185.
  • 11. Howie I., 1995, “Competing materials in shoemaking”, Leather International, 41-43.
  • 12. Sarı O. and Bitlisli B.O., 2000, “The upper leather problems used for military footwear and boats”, Infantry Symposium, 2000, Istanbul.
  • 13. Harvey A.J., 1982, “Footwear Materials and Process Technology”, Swiftprint Centre Ltd., New York, USA.
  • 14. Bitlisli B.O., Karavana H.A., Başaran B. and Aslan A., 2004, “Importance of using genuine leather in shoe production in terms of foot comfort”, Journal of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists, 89, 107.
  • 15. Sarı O.,1988, “The problems originated from finished leathers in footwear industry and their solutions”, The Seminar of Quality Control for Leather and Footwear, The publications of Sumerbank Research, Development and Education Institute, Bursa, 92.
  • 16. Heus R., 2005, “Water vapor transport as a determinant of comfort in evalvating shoes”, Environmental Ergonomics, Ergonomics Book Series, 3, 445- 448,.
  • 17. Kanlı N., Adiguzel Zengin A.C. and Bitlisli, B.O., 2010, “The effects of different finishing types on water vapor and air permeability properties of shoe upper leathers”, ICAMS 2010 – 3rd International Conference on Advanced Materials and Systems, 16-18 September 2010, Bucharest, Romania, 63-66.
  • 18. Thorstensen T.C., 1993, “Practical Leather Technology”, Shoe Trade Publishing, New York, 340.
  • 19. Adigüzel Zengin A.C., Oglakcioglu N., Bitlisli B.O., 2016, “The Effects of leather finishing types on foot wear comfort properties” 7th International Conference of Textile,10-11 November 2016, Tirana, Albania, 450-455.
  • 20. TS EN ISO 2418, 2006, “Leather - Chemical, physical and mechanical and fastness tests - Sampling location”, Turkish Standard Institute, Ankara, Turkey.
  • 21. TS EN ISO 2419, 2006, “Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Sample preparation and conditioning”, Turkish Standard Institute, Ankara, Turkey.
  • 22. TS 4117 EN ISO 2589, 2006, “Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of thickness”, Turkish Standard Institute, Ankara, Turkey.
  • 23. TS EN ISO 14268, 2004, “Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of water vapor permeability”, Turkish Standard Institute, Ankara, Turkey.
  • 24. Hes L., 2008, “Non-destructive determination of comfort parameters during marketing of functional garments and clothing”, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 33, 239-245.
  • 25. Hes L., 2000, “An indirect method for the fast evaluation of surface moisture absorptiveness of shirt and underwear fabrics”, Vlakna a Textil, 7(2), 91-96.
  • 26. Hes L., Araujo M. and Djulay V., 1996, “Effect of mutual bonding of textile layers on thermal insulation and thermal contact properties of fabric assemblies”, Textile Research Journal, 66, 245-250.
  • 27. Dandar U., Çolak S.M., Deveci R., Adıgüzel Zengin A.C. and Zengin G., 2014, “Skin characteristics of Cervus elaphus L. from Republic of Tuva in Russia, Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association, 109(5), 141-150.
  • 28. Schulz H., 2002, “Flüchtige Substanzen aus Leder – Methoden, Quellen, Substanzen”, Leder & Haute Markt, 3, 25-33.
  • 29. Milasiene D., Jankauskaite V. and Arcisauskaite R., 2003, “Prediction of stress relaxation in laminated leather layers”, Materials Science (Medžiagotyra), 9(1), 73–79.
  • 30. Gibson PW., 2000, “Effect of temperature on water vapor transport through polymer membrane elaminates”, Polymer Testing, 19, 673–691.
  • 31. Śmiechowski K., Żarłok J. and Kowalska M., 2014, “The relationship between water vapor permeability and softness for leathers produced in Poland”, Journal of the Society Leather Technologist and Chemists, 98, 259-263.
  • 32. Keyong T., Fang W., Jie L., Jinglong L. and Quanjie W., 2006, “An air permeability model for leathers”, Journal of the Society Leather Technologist and Chemists, 90, 108-111.

AYAKKABI YÜZLÜK DERİLERİNİN BAZI FİZİKSEL KARAKTERİSTİKLERİ ÜZERINE FINISAJ TEKNİKLERİNİN ETKİLERİ

Yıl 2017, Cilt: 27 Sayı: 2, 198 - 203, 30.06.2017

Öz

Anilin, pigment ve rugan finisaj tipleri yüzlük derilerin üretiminde kullanılan en yaygın finisaj teknikleridir. Yüzlük derilere uygulanan farklı finisaj tipleri, derilerin fiziksel, fonksiyonel özelliklerine ilaveten konfor ve görünüm özelliklerini etkilemektedir. Yüzlük derilerin fiziksel karakterizasyonu üzerine farklı finisaj türlerinin etkisini değerlendirmek için bu çalışmada dana ve keçi derileri kullanılmıştır. Anilin, pigment ve rugan finisaj işlemi görmüş mamul derilerin su buharı geçirgenliği, hava geçirgenliği ve ısıl direnç testleri yüzlük derilerin konfor özelliklerinin belirlenmesi için finisaj işlemi öncesi ve sonrası gerçekleştirilmiştir. Morfolojik karakterizasyon için masaüstü taramalı elektron mikroskobu (TSEM) kullanılmıştır. Su buharı ve hava geçirgenliği değerleri finisaj işlemi öncesi önemli ölçüde yüksek bulunmasına rağmen finisaj işlemleri sonrası daha düşük sonuçlar elde edilmiştir. Sadece su buharı geçirgenliği istatistiksel olarak etkili bulunurken, diğer fiziksel test değerleri için anlamlı bir farklılık tespit edilememiştir.

Kaynakça

  • 1. Sarı Ö., 1983, “The wear physiology properties of wool products and their importance”, The Journal of Ege University Faculty of Agriculture, 20(3),101- 122.
  • 2. Seventekin N., 1988, “The role of the textile materials on the regulation of human body temperature”, Textile and Machinery, 11(2), 246-250.
  • 3. Huang J., 2006, “Thermal parameters for assessing thermal properties of clothing”, Journal of Thermal Biology, 31, 461-466.
  • 4. Zhang P. and Gong R.H., 2001, “Clothing air permeability and moisture regain on human thermal regulation during exercise”, Texnitex 2001 Autex Conference, The University of Minho, Portugal, 216-226.
  • 5. Ertekin G., Oglakcıoğlu N., Marmarali A., Eser B. and Pamuk M., 2015, “Thermal transmission attributes of knitted structures produced by using engineered yarns”, Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 10(4),73-78.
  • 6. Oglakcioğlu N. and Marmarali A., 2007, “Thermal comfort properties of some knitted structures”, Fibers and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 15 (5–6), 64–65.
  • 7. Oglakcioglu N. and Kyosev Y., 2011, “About the computation of the effective thermal resistance of weft knitted structures”, Proceedings of 5th Aachen- Dresden International Textile Congress, Aachen, Germany, 24-25 November 2011, 1-4.
  • 8. Ongel K. and Mergen H., 2009, “Review of literature about the effects of thermal comfort parameters on human body”, Medical Journal of Süleyman Demirel University, 16(1), 25-26.
  • 9. Elahi Mangat A., Bajzik V., Hes L. and Büyük Mazari F., 2015, “The use of artificial neural networks to estimate thermal resistance of knitted fabrics”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 25(4), 304-312.
  • 10. Boguslawska Baczek M. and Hes L., 2014, “Thermal conductivity and resistance of nomex fabrics exposed to salty water”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 24(2), 180-185.
  • 11. Howie I., 1995, “Competing materials in shoemaking”, Leather International, 41-43.
  • 12. Sarı O. and Bitlisli B.O., 2000, “The upper leather problems used for military footwear and boats”, Infantry Symposium, 2000, Istanbul.
  • 13. Harvey A.J., 1982, “Footwear Materials and Process Technology”, Swiftprint Centre Ltd., New York, USA.
  • 14. Bitlisli B.O., Karavana H.A., Başaran B. and Aslan A., 2004, “Importance of using genuine leather in shoe production in terms of foot comfort”, Journal of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists, 89, 107.
  • 15. Sarı O.,1988, “The problems originated from finished leathers in footwear industry and their solutions”, The Seminar of Quality Control for Leather and Footwear, The publications of Sumerbank Research, Development and Education Institute, Bursa, 92.
  • 16. Heus R., 2005, “Water vapor transport as a determinant of comfort in evalvating shoes”, Environmental Ergonomics, Ergonomics Book Series, 3, 445- 448,.
  • 17. Kanlı N., Adiguzel Zengin A.C. and Bitlisli, B.O., 2010, “The effects of different finishing types on water vapor and air permeability properties of shoe upper leathers”, ICAMS 2010 – 3rd International Conference on Advanced Materials and Systems, 16-18 September 2010, Bucharest, Romania, 63-66.
  • 18. Thorstensen T.C., 1993, “Practical Leather Technology”, Shoe Trade Publishing, New York, 340.
  • 19. Adigüzel Zengin A.C., Oglakcioglu N., Bitlisli B.O., 2016, “The Effects of leather finishing types on foot wear comfort properties” 7th International Conference of Textile,10-11 November 2016, Tirana, Albania, 450-455.
  • 20. TS EN ISO 2418, 2006, “Leather - Chemical, physical and mechanical and fastness tests - Sampling location”, Turkish Standard Institute, Ankara, Turkey.
  • 21. TS EN ISO 2419, 2006, “Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Sample preparation and conditioning”, Turkish Standard Institute, Ankara, Turkey.
  • 22. TS 4117 EN ISO 2589, 2006, “Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of thickness”, Turkish Standard Institute, Ankara, Turkey.
  • 23. TS EN ISO 14268, 2004, “Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of water vapor permeability”, Turkish Standard Institute, Ankara, Turkey.
  • 24. Hes L., 2008, “Non-destructive determination of comfort parameters during marketing of functional garments and clothing”, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 33, 239-245.
  • 25. Hes L., 2000, “An indirect method for the fast evaluation of surface moisture absorptiveness of shirt and underwear fabrics”, Vlakna a Textil, 7(2), 91-96.
  • 26. Hes L., Araujo M. and Djulay V., 1996, “Effect of mutual bonding of textile layers on thermal insulation and thermal contact properties of fabric assemblies”, Textile Research Journal, 66, 245-250.
  • 27. Dandar U., Çolak S.M., Deveci R., Adıgüzel Zengin A.C. and Zengin G., 2014, “Skin characteristics of Cervus elaphus L. from Republic of Tuva in Russia, Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association, 109(5), 141-150.
  • 28. Schulz H., 2002, “Flüchtige Substanzen aus Leder – Methoden, Quellen, Substanzen”, Leder & Haute Markt, 3, 25-33.
  • 29. Milasiene D., Jankauskaite V. and Arcisauskaite R., 2003, “Prediction of stress relaxation in laminated leather layers”, Materials Science (Medžiagotyra), 9(1), 73–79.
  • 30. Gibson PW., 2000, “Effect of temperature on water vapor transport through polymer membrane elaminates”, Polymer Testing, 19, 673–691.
  • 31. Śmiechowski K., Żarłok J. and Kowalska M., 2014, “The relationship between water vapor permeability and softness for leathers produced in Poland”, Journal of the Society Leather Technologist and Chemists, 98, 259-263.
  • 32. Keyong T., Fang W., Jie L., Jinglong L. and Quanjie W., 2006, “An air permeability model for leathers”, Journal of the Society Leather Technologist and Chemists, 90, 108-111.
Toplam 32 adet kaynakça vardır.

Ayrıntılar

Bölüm Makaleler
Yazarlar

Arife Candaş Adıgüzel Zengin Bu kişi benim

Nida Oğlakcıoğlu Bu kişi benim

Behzat Oral Bitlisli

Yayımlanma Tarihi 30 Haziran 2017
Gönderilme Tarihi 29 Haziran 2017
Kabul Tarihi 29 Eylül 2016
Yayımlandığı Sayı Yıl 2017 Cilt: 27 Sayı: 2

Kaynak Göster

APA Adıgüzel Zengin, A. C., Oğlakcıoğlu, N., & Bitlisli, B. O. (2017). EFFECT OF FINISHING TECHNIQUES ON SOME PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF SHOE UPPER LEATHERS. Textile and Apparel, 27(2), 198-203.

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