ÖRME KUMAŞLARDA DİKİM İŞLEMİNİN KUMAŞ ÖZELLİKLERİNE ETKİSİNİN İNCELENMESİ

Year 2023, Volume: 30 Issue: 132, 281 - 288, 31.12.2023

Berna Cüreklibatır Encan Esra Zeynep Yıldız

https://doi.org/10.7216/teksmuh.1318318

Abstract

Kumaşların birleştirilmesinde en sık kullanılan yöntem olan dikiş yoluyla birleştirme işlemi, kumaşların çeşitli özelliklerinde değişimlere sebep olmaktadır. Bu çalışmada, günlük giysilerde sık kullanılan üç farklı kumaş yapısının (interlok, 1x1 rib ve pike) dikim sonrasında bazı konfor özelliklerinin değişimi incelenmiştir. Bu amaç kapsamında, belirlenen kumaşlar hazır giyim üretiminde sıklıkla tercih edilen üç farklı dikiş ipliği (%100 pamuk, %100 kesikli PES ve PES-PES özlü iplik) ile dikilmiştir. Dikilen numunelerin dikim öncesi ve sonrasındaki durumlarında hava geçirgenliği, dökümlülük katsayısı ve elastikiyet özelliklerindeki değişimler ele alınmıştır. Ayrıca dikilmiş numunelerin dikiş mukavemeti ve dikiş büzgüsü özellikleri de incelenmiş, kumaş yapısı ile dikim işleminin performansı arasındaki ilişki de irdelenmiştir. Sonuçlar incelendiğinde dikim bölgesinde hava geçirgenliği, dökümlülük ve elastikiyet özelliklerinde azalma olduğu gözlenmiştir. Hava geçirgenliği ve elastikiyet değerlerindeki en büyük azalma pamuk ipliği ile gerçekleştirilen dikişlerde gözlenmiştir. Polyester iplik ise daha iyi dökümlülük değerleri vermiştir. İnterlok kumaşta yapılan dikişin en yüksek mukavemete ve büzgüye sahip olduğu saptanmıştır. Dikiş ipliği açısından ise PES-PES özlü dikiş ipliği en iyi mukavemet ve en yüksek büzgüye sahiptir. Çalışmada elde edilen sonuçlar dikim işleminin konforu etkileyen bazı temel kumaş özellikleri üzerinde önemli ölçüde etkili olduğunu göstermektedir. Bunun yanı sıra, kullanılan dikiş ipliği cinsinin de bu özellikleri etkilediği saptanmıştır.

Keywords

Örme kumaş, dikiş, konfor, dikiş ipliği

INVESTIGATION OF THE EFFECT OF SEWING PROCESS ON KNITTED FABRIC PROPERTIES

Abstract

Sewing, the most common method for assembling fabrics, leads to changes in various fabric properties. Variations in some comfort characteristics of three fabric structures (interlock, 1x1 rib, and piquet) often used in casual clothes were investigated after the sewing process. For this purpose, samples were sewn with three different sewing threads (100% cotton, 100% staple PES and PES-PES core-spun) commonly used in the apparel industry. Changes in air permeability, drapeability coefficient, and elasticity properties of the samples were examined after sewing. Furthermore, seam strength and seam pucker characteristics of the sewn samples were determined, and relations between fabric structure and sewing performance were considered.

Results presented that decreases in air permeability, drapeability, and elasticity characteristics were observed at seam areas. 100% cotton sewing thread resulted in the largest decrease in air permeability and elasticity values, whereas 100% staple PES thread had the best drapeability results. Seams on interlock fabric had the highest seam strength and seam pucker, while PES-PES core-spun thread provided the best seam strength and highest seam pucker. Results demonstrated that the sewing process affected some fundamental fabric properties regarding comfort. Moreover, sewing thread type affected these characteristics, as well.

Keywords

Knitted fabric, sewing, comfort, sewing thread

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