DYEING OF SILK IN EDIRNE RED COLOR WITH MADDER

Year 2023, Volume: 28 Issue: 3, 761 - 774, 27.12.2023

İsmail Yüce Nilgun Becenen

https://doi.org/10.17482/uumfd.1318831

Abstract

Silk is a natural filament obtained from the Bombyx mori species of silkworm, with a fiber length of up to 3000 meters. During the Ottoman era in Edirne, sericulture and silk trade were important activities. To this end, silk factories, trade centers, and silk weaving schools were established, creating an important source of income for the people of Edirne. Edirne Red is a natural dye obtained from the Rubia Tinctorum L. plant and is part of the Ottoman Empire's heritage. This dye is resistant to sunlight and washing. It has been used in Turkish carpets, as well as in silk and cotton fabrics. The aim of this study is to bring together the importance of Edirne Red and silk in Edirne's history. For this purpose, 100% silk fabrics were dyed using madder (Rubia Tinctorum L.) grown within the borders of Edirne province. The effects of dye ratios and auxiliary chemicals used on color and colorfastness were examined during the dyeing process. The color values of the fabrics were measured numerically in the CIEL*a*b* color space, and the washing and light fastness values of the dyed fabrics were also measured. Additionally, highperformance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analyses were performed on both the used madder and the dyed fabric. Based on the obtained data, the closest Edirne Red color was achieved by pre-mordanting fabric before dyeing and using ethanol as the dye solvent. Madder dye, successfully applied to silk fabrics under different conditions, has shown good results in terms of color yield and fastness properties.

Keywords

Edirne Red, Silk, Rubia Tinctorum L., Madder, Fastness

Thanks

This study was financially supported within the scope of the research project "TUBAP 2022/46" conducted by the Trakya University Scientific Research Projects Unit. The cultivation of Rubia Tinctorium L. plant, harvesting of roots, and pulverization were carried out at Trakya University Havsa Vocational School. We would like to thank our Vocational School Director Prof. Dr. Mustafa Tan for his support. We would also like to thank Textile Engineer Ece Karaman at Edirne Kilim Textile Factory for her assistance in the washing and lightfastness tests.

İpeğin Kök Boya İle Edirne Kırmızısı Rengine Boyanması

Abstract

İpek, bombyx mori türü ipek böceğinden elde edilen ve lif uzunluğu 3000 m.ye kadar ulaşabilen doğal bir filamenttir. Osmanlı dönemi Edirne’sinde, ipek böcekçiliği ve ticareti önemli bir yer tutmuştur. Bu amaçla, ipek fabrikaları, ticaret hanı, ipekçilik okulu kurulmuş ve Edirne halkı için ipek önemli bir gelir kaynağı yaratmıştır. Edirne Kırmızısı, Rubia Tinctorum L. bitkisinden elde edilen doğal bir boyadır ve Osmanlı imparatorluk mirasıdır. Bu boya güneş ışığına ve yıkamaya karşı dirençlidir. Türk halılarında, ipek ve pamuklu kumaşlarda kullanılmıştır. Yapılan bu çalışmada Edirne tarihinde önemli yer edinen Edirne kırmızısını ve ipekçiliği bir araya getirmek amaçlanmıştır. Bu amaçla, Edirne ili sınırları içerisinde yetişen Rubia Tinctorum L. kök boya bitkisi kullanılarak %100 ipekli kumaşlar boyanmıştır. Boyama işleminde, boyarmadde oranlarının ve kullanılan yardımcı kimyasalların renk ve haslık üzerindeki etkileri incelenmiştir. Elde edilen boyamalar sonucunda CIEL*a*b* renk alanında kumaşların renk değerleri sayısal olarak ölçülmüş ve aynı zamanda boyalı kumaşların yıkama ve sürtme haslık değerleri analiz edilmiştir. Aynı zamanda kullanılan kök boyarmaddenin ve boyanmış kumaşın yüksek performanslı sıvı kromatografisi (HPLC) analizleri gerçekleştirilmiştir. Elde edilen veriler ışığında, kumaşın boyamadan önce ön mordanlama yapılması ve boyarmadde çözücüsü olarak etanol kullanılması sonucu en yakın Edirne kırmızısı rengi elde edilmiştir. İpekli kumaşlara farklı koşullarda başarıyla uygulanan kök boya, renk verimi ve haslık özellikleri açısından iyi sonuçlar vermiştir.

Keywords

Edirne Kırmızısı, İpek, Rubia Tinctorum L., Kök boya, Haslık

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