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Year 2018, Volume: 1 Issue: 2, 67 - 71, 31.12.2018
https://doi.org/10.38093/cupmap.488668

Abstract

References

  • Baumann, L.S., 2007. Less-known botanical cosmeceuticals. Dermatological Therapy, 20(5):330-342.
  • Desmedt, B., Courselle, P., De Beer, J.O., Rogiers, V., Deconinck, E., De Paepe, K., 2014. Illegal cosmetics on the EU market: a threat for human health? Archives of Toxicology, 88(9):1765-1766.
  • Desmedt, B., Courselle, P., De Beer, J.O., Rogiers, V., Grosber, M., Deconinck, E., De Paepe, K., 2016. Overview of skin whitening agents with an insight into the illegal cosmetic market in Europe. Journal of European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 30(6):943-950.
  • Draelos, Z.D., 1997. New developments in cosmetics and skin care products. Advances in Dermatology, 12:3-17.
  • Draelos, Z.D., 2014. Cosmeceuticals - efficacy and influence on skin tone. Dermatologic Clinics, 32:137-143.
  • Gur, Z.T., Senol, F.S., Shekfeh, S.Orhan, I.E., Banoglu, E., Çaliskan, B., 2019. Novel piperazine amides of cinnamic acid derivatives as tyrosinase inhibitors. Letters in Drug Design & Discovery, 16(1):36-44.
  • Kligman, A.M., 2005. Cosmeceuticals: A broad-spectrum category between cosmetics and drugs. In: Elsner P., Maibach H, eds. Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics. Drug versus Cosmetics, Boca Raton, Tylor and Francis pp. 1-9.
  • Lee, C.M., 2016. Fifty years of research and development of cosmeceuticals: a contemporary review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(4):527-539.
  • Matsumoto, M., Todo, H., Akiyama, T., Hirata-Koizumi, M., Sugibayashi, K., Ikarashi, Y., Ono, A., Hirose, A., Yokoyama, K., 2016. Risk assessment of skin lightening cosmetics containing hydroquinone. Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, 81:128-135.
  • O'Donoghue, J.L., 2006. Hydroquinone and its analogues in dermatology −a risk-benefit viewpoint. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 5:196-203.
  • Pillaiyar, T., Manickam, M., Namasivayam, V., 2017. Skin whitening agents: medicinal chemistry perspective of tyrosinase inhibitors. Journal of Enzyme Inhibition and Medicinal Chemistry, 32(1):403-425.
  • Senol, F.S., Khan, M.T., Orhan, G., Gurkas, E., Orhan, I.E., Oztekin, N.S., Ak, F., 2014. In silico approach to inhibition of tyrosinase by ascorbic acid using molecular docking simulations. Current Topics in Medicinal Chemistry, 14(12):1469-1472.

Studies on Natural Cosmetic R & D – From Laboratory to Prototype Product

Year 2018, Volume: 1 Issue: 2, 67 - 71, 31.12.2018
https://doi.org/10.38093/cupmap.488668

Abstract

Cosmetic sector has been developing day by day and more products based on scientific search are released to the market. In this sector, particularly natural cosmetics are in a great demand, which also raises the need for more effective and safe products. Being one of the most important biodiversity spots in the world due to its rich flora, it must be a target for Turkey’s national economy to use plant species in cosmetic preparation as well as branding for our country’s promotion. For this purpose, we have been working on R&D of natural cosmetics using our own herbal sources to produce cosmetics with anti-wrinkle and skin bleaching effect. In this regard, we started to screen over 100 plant species for their anti-wrinkle and skin bleaching potential in our laboratory by enzyme inhibitory assays against tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase using ELISA microtiter methods. The active extracts were subjected to activity-guided fractionation and isolation and then, compounds responsible for the aforementioned inhibitions were elucidated. The active inhibitory molecules were proceeded to in silicoassays using molecular docking techniques. According to our preliminary screening results, the extracts from Vitis viniferaCamellia sinensisCotynus coggygriaMaclura pomifera, and Geranium glaberrimumwere found to be the most active extracts, from which we prepared several cosmetic formulations under the brand name Vitabel. In this paper, summary of our extensive studies on cosmetic R & D conducted in our laboratory which were finalized with prototype cosmetic samples. Our findings indicate that plants are notable biosources for cosmetic research.

References

  • Baumann, L.S., 2007. Less-known botanical cosmeceuticals. Dermatological Therapy, 20(5):330-342.
  • Desmedt, B., Courselle, P., De Beer, J.O., Rogiers, V., Deconinck, E., De Paepe, K., 2014. Illegal cosmetics on the EU market: a threat for human health? Archives of Toxicology, 88(9):1765-1766.
  • Desmedt, B., Courselle, P., De Beer, J.O., Rogiers, V., Grosber, M., Deconinck, E., De Paepe, K., 2016. Overview of skin whitening agents with an insight into the illegal cosmetic market in Europe. Journal of European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 30(6):943-950.
  • Draelos, Z.D., 1997. New developments in cosmetics and skin care products. Advances in Dermatology, 12:3-17.
  • Draelos, Z.D., 2014. Cosmeceuticals - efficacy and influence on skin tone. Dermatologic Clinics, 32:137-143.
  • Gur, Z.T., Senol, F.S., Shekfeh, S.Orhan, I.E., Banoglu, E., Çaliskan, B., 2019. Novel piperazine amides of cinnamic acid derivatives as tyrosinase inhibitors. Letters in Drug Design & Discovery, 16(1):36-44.
  • Kligman, A.M., 2005. Cosmeceuticals: A broad-spectrum category between cosmetics and drugs. In: Elsner P., Maibach H, eds. Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics. Drug versus Cosmetics, Boca Raton, Tylor and Francis pp. 1-9.
  • Lee, C.M., 2016. Fifty years of research and development of cosmeceuticals: a contemporary review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(4):527-539.
  • Matsumoto, M., Todo, H., Akiyama, T., Hirata-Koizumi, M., Sugibayashi, K., Ikarashi, Y., Ono, A., Hirose, A., Yokoyama, K., 2016. Risk assessment of skin lightening cosmetics containing hydroquinone. Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, 81:128-135.
  • O'Donoghue, J.L., 2006. Hydroquinone and its analogues in dermatology −a risk-benefit viewpoint. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 5:196-203.
  • Pillaiyar, T., Manickam, M., Namasivayam, V., 2017. Skin whitening agents: medicinal chemistry perspective of tyrosinase inhibitors. Journal of Enzyme Inhibition and Medicinal Chemistry, 32(1):403-425.
  • Senol, F.S., Khan, M.T., Orhan, G., Gurkas, E., Orhan, I.E., Oztekin, N.S., Ak, F., 2014. In silico approach to inhibition of tyrosinase by ascorbic acid using molecular docking simulations. Current Topics in Medicinal Chemistry, 14(12):1469-1472.
There are 12 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language English
Journal Section Research Articles
Authors

İlkay Erdoğan Orhan

Fatma Sezer Şenol Deniz This is me

Publication Date December 31, 2018
Published in Issue Year 2018 Volume: 1 Issue: 2

Cite

APA Erdoğan Orhan, İ., & Şenol Deniz, F. S. (2018). Studies on Natural Cosmetic R & D – From Laboratory to Prototype Product. Current Perspectives on Medicinal and Aromatic Plants, 1(2), 67-71. https://doi.org/10.38093/cupmap.488668

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