Sürdürülebilir Moda Perakendeciliği: Tüketici Algıları Üzerine Bir Araştırma

Year 2020, , 86 - 116, 18.08.2020

Şirin Gizem Köse Kenan Aydın

https://doi.org/10.26650/ibr.2020.49.0099

Abstract

Moda perakendecileri arasındaki rekabet, sürekli ürün yenileme ve fiyatı en düşük seviyede tutma zorunluluğunu birlikte getirmektedir. Ancak bu anlayışın sonucu olan hızlı modanın, zehirli kimyasal kullanımına, su kirliliğine ve tekstil atıklarına sebep olmasından dolayı eleştirilmesi, moda sektöründe sürdürülebilirlik faaliyetlerinin önemini artırmaktadır. Bu çalışmada, sürdürülebilir modaya yönelik tüketici görüşleri nitel araştırma yöntemi ile incelenmiştir. Yapılan araştırmada, tüketicilerin sürdürülebilirlik ve modada sürdürülebilirlik hakkındaki algıları ve bilgi düzeyleri araştırılmış, giysi satın alma ve elden çıkarma davranışlarının nasıl şekillendirdikleri incelenmiş, tüketicilerin moda sektöründe sürdürülebilirlik faaliyetlerinde bulunan moda perakendecilerine dair değerlendirmeleri ve satın alma niyetleri sorgulanmıştır. 31 kişi ile derinlemesine görüşme yöntemi ile toplanan veriler, temalar haline getirilmiş ve katılımcıların sürdürülebilirlik algısı, sürdürülebilir moda faaliyetlerinin perakendeci imajı üzerindeki etkileri ile giysi satın alma ve elden çıkarmada sürdürülebilirlik etkisine dair modeller oluşturulmuştur. Araştırma sonuçlarına göre, tüketiciler moda sektörünün olumsuz etkilerinin farkındadır. Tüketiciler, hızlı moda anlayışının getirdiği olumsuz etkileri azaltma konusunda perakendecilerle birlikte kendilerine düşen sorumluluğun da bilincindedir. Bununla birlikte tüketicilerde moda sektöründe sürdürülebilirlik faaliyetlerinin kapsamı ve bu faaliyetleri yapan şirketlerle ilgili bilgi eksikliği bulunmaktadır. Tüketiciler, sürdürülebilir moda perakendeciliği ile ilgili olumlu görüşlere sahiptir ve sürdürülebilirlik uygulamalarının moda perakendecilerinin imajını desteklediği görüşündedir. Bu olumlu görüşlerin satın almaya dönüşebilmesi için, iletişim faaliyetleri, kaliteden ödün verilmemesi, tasarım ve fiyatın uygun olması önem taşımaktadır.

Keywords

Sürdürülebilir moda perakendeciliği, Nitel araştırma, Moda perakendeciliği, Sürdürülebilirlik, Tüketici Algıları

Supporting Institution

Yazarlar bu çalışma için finansal destek almadığını beyan etmiştir.

Sustainable Fashion Retailing: A Research on Consumer Perceptions

Abstract

The intense competition among fashion retailers makes constant product renewal and keeping the minimum price level obligatory. However, the fact that fast fashion orientation is criticized because of using toxic chemicals, causing water pollution and textile waste increased the movement toward sustainability activities in the fashion industry. This study investigated consumers’ opinions on sustainable fashion with qualitative research. Consumers’ perceptions and knowledge on sustainability and sustainability in fashion were researched, how consumers shape their clothing purchases and disposal behaviors were examined, and consumers’ evaluations about fashion retailers that conduct sustainability activities and consumers’ purchase intention for these fashion retailers were questioned. The data was gathered from 31 participants through in-depth interviews and themes were obtained, and models were constructed about consumers’ perception of sustainable fashion, the effect of sustainable fashion activities on retailers’ image, and the sustainability effect on clothing purchasing and disposal. Research results show that consumers are aware of the adverse effects of the fashion industry, and they are conscious of their responsibility together with retailers. Furthermore, there is a lack of information regarding the content of sustainability activities and companies carrying out these activities. Consumers have favorable opinions on sustainable fashion retailing, and they think that sustainability activities support the fashion retailers’ image. In order to convert the positive opinions into purchase behavior, communication activities, not compromising quality, design, and having a fair price are important.

Keywords

Sustainable fashion retailing, Qualitative research, Fashion retailing, Sustainability, Consumer perceptions

References

• Barnes, L., & Lea-Greenwood, G. (2006). Fast fashioning the supply chain: shaping the research agenda. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 10(39), 259-271.
• Baş, T., & Akturan, U. (2013), Nitel Araştırma Yöntemleri. Ankara: Seçkin Yayıncılık.
• Birtwistle, G., & Moore, C. M. (2007). Fashion clothing - Where does it all end up? International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 35(3), 210–216. doi: 10.1108/09590550710735068
• Boström, M., & Micheletti, M. (2016). Introducing the sustainability challenge of textiles and clothing. Journal of Consumer Policy, 39(4), 367–375.
• Bruce, M., & Daly, L. (2006). Buyer behaviour for fast fashion. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 10(3), 329–344. doi: 10.1108/13612020610679303
• Cervellon, M. C., Carey, L., & Harms, T. (2012). Something old, something used: Determinants of women’s purchase of vintage fashion vs second-hand fashion. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 40(12), 956–974.
• Chan, T. Yan, & Wong, C. W. Y. (2012). The consumption side of sustainable fashion supply chain: Understanding fashion consumer eco-fashion consumption decision. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 16(2), 193–215. doi: 10.1108/13612021211222824
• Cho, E., Gupta, S., & Kim, Y. K. (2015). Style consumption: its drivers and role in sustainable apparel consumption. International journal of consumer studies, 39(6), 661–669.
• Çokluk, Ö., Yılmaz, K. ve Oğuz, E. (2011). Nitel bir görüşme yöntemi: Odak grup görüşmesi. Kuramsal Eğitimbilim Dergisi, 4(1), 95–107.
• Da Giau, A., Macchion, L., Caniato, F., Caridi, M., Danese, P., Rinaldi, R., & Vinelli, A. (2016). Sustainability practices and web-based communication: an analysis of the Italian fashion industry. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 20(1), 72–88.
• De Lenne, O., & Vandenbosch, L. (2017). Media and sustainable apparel buying intention. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 21(4), 483–498.
• Eifler, C., & Diekamp, K. (2013). Consumer Acceptance of Sustainable Fashion in Germany. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 17(1), 70–77. doi: 10.1108/RJTA-17-01-2013-B007
• Emmett, D. (2013). Design with a Conscience. L. Petican, M. Esseghaier, A. Nurse & D. Eluwawalage (Ed.) Trending Now-New Developments in Fashion. Inter-Disciplinary Press Oxford, United Kingdom.
• European Environment Agency, (2018). Endüstriyel Kirlilik-Ülke Profilleri, Kopenhag. 09.07.2019 tarihinde https://www.eea.europa.eu/themes/industry/industrial-pollution/industrial-pollution-country-profiles-2018 adresinden erişildi.
• Fletcher, K. (2010). Slow fashion: An invitation for systems change. Fashion Practice, 2(2), 259–265.
• Forsythe, S., Butler, S., & Kim, M. S. (1991). Fashion adoption: Theory and pragmatics. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 9(4), 8–15.
• Fulton, K., & Lee, S. E. (2013). Assessing sustainable initiatives of apparel retailers on the internet. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 17(3), 353–366.
• Global Fashion Agenda & Boston Consulting Group. (2018). Pulse of the Fashion Industry, Kopenhag. 09.07.2019 tarihinde https://www.globalfashionagenda.com/initiatives/pulse/# adresinden erişildi.
• Han, T. I., & Stoel, L. (2016). The effect of social norms and product knowledge on purchase of organic cotton and fair-trade apparel. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 7(2), 89–102.
• Harris, F., Roby, H., & Dibb, S. (2016). Sustainable clothing: challenges, barriers and interventions for encouraging more sustainable consumer behaviour. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 40(3), 309–318.
• Hill, J., & Lee, H. H. (2012). Young Generation Y consumers’ perceptions of sustainability in the apparel industry. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 16(4), 477–491. doi: 10.1108/13612021211265863
• Hill, J., & Lee, H. H. (2015). Sustainable brand extensions of fast fashion retailers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 19(2), 205–222.
• Hong, H., & Kang, J. H. (2019). The impact of moral philosophy and moral intensity on purchase behavior toward sustainable textile and apparel products. Fashion and Textiles, 6(1), 16.
• Hustvedt, G., & Dickson, M. A. (2009). Consumer likelihood of purchasing organic cotton apparel: Influence of attitudes and self-identity. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 13(1), 49–65.
• Iran, S., & Schrader, U. (2017). Collaborative fashion consumption and its environmental effects. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 21(4), 468–482.
• Joergens, C. (2006). Ethical fashion: Myth or future trend? Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 10(3), 360–371. doi: 10.1108/13612020610679321
• Joy, A., Sherry Jr, J. F., Venkatesh, A., Wang, J., & Chan, R. (2012). Fast fashion, sustainability, and the ethical appeal of luxury brands. Fashion theory, 16(3), 273–295.
• Jung, S., & Jin, B. (2014). A theoretical investigation of slow fashion: sustainable future of the apparel industry. International journal of consumer studies, 38(5), 510–519.
• Karaca, Ş. (2018). Duygusal ve bilişsel güdülerin sürdürülebilir giysi tüketim davranışı üzerindeki etkisini incelemeye yönelik bir çalışma. Selçuk Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü Dergisi (40), 254–268.
• Kim, H. & Hall, M.L. Green Brand Strategies in the Fashion Industry:Leveraging Connections of the Consumer, Brand, and Environmental Sustainability. T.-M. Choi, T. C. Edwin Cheng (Ed..), Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain Management, Springer Series in Supply Chain Management. doi: 10.1007/978-3-319-12703-3_2
• Kim, H. E. (2015). A study on the characteristics and trends of sustainable fashion through Esthetica at London Fashion Week. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 17(2), 168–177. doi: 10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.168
• Kim, G., & Jin, B. E. (2019). Older female consumers’ environmentally sustainable apparel consumption. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal.
• Kipöz, Ş., & Atalay, D. (2015). Etik Modanın Temsiliyeti Bağlamında Vaatleri Ve Çelişkileri:‘Etik Moda’ Ne Kadar Etik Sunuluyor? Yedi: Sanat, Tasarım ve Bilim Dergisi, (14), 101–115.
• Koca, E. ve Çağman, D. S. (2012). Kullanılmayan giysilerin değerlendirilmesinde çalışan kadınların ekolojik yaklaşımları. Selçuk Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü Dergisi, 27, 159–169.
• Koca, E., Öz, C., ve Yıldırım Artaç, B. (2016). Hazır giyim sektöründe sürdürülebilirliğin yöneticiler açısından değerlendirilmesi. Tekstil ve Mühendis, 23(103), 220–230. doi: 10.7216/1300759920162310308
• Kong, H. M., Ko, E., Chae, H., & Mattila, P. (2016). Understanding fashion consumers’ attitude and behavioral intention toward sustainable fashion products: Focus on sustainable knowledge sources and knowledge types. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 7(2), 103–119. doi: 10.1080/20932685.2015.1131435
• Koo, H. S., Dunne, L., & Bye, E. (2014). Design functions in transformable garments for sustainability. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 7(1), 10–20. https://doi.org/10.108 0/17543266.2013.845250
• Kozlowski, A., Bardecki, M., & Searcy, C. (2012). Environmental Impacts in the Fashion Industry. Journal of Corporate Citizenship, (45), 16–36. doi: 10.9774/GLEAF.4700.2012.sp.00004
• Kuşat, N. (2013). Yeşil Sürdürülebilirlik İçin Yeşil Ekonomi: Avantaj Ve Dezavantajları-Türkiye İncelemesi. Journal of Yasar University, 8(29).
• Lawless, E., & Medvedev, K. (2016). Assessment of sustainable design practices in the fashion industry: Experiences of eight small sustainable design companies in the Northeastern and Southeastern United States. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 9(1), 41–50. doi: 17543266.2015.1116616
• Lee, N., Choi, Y. J., Youn, C., & Lee, Y. (2012). Does green fashion retailing make consumers more ecofriendly? The influence of green fashion products and campaigns on green consciousness and behavior. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 30(1), 67–82.
• Lundblad, L., & Davies, I. A. (2016). The values and motivations behind sustainable fashion consumption. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 15(2), 149–162.
• Manchiraju, S., Fiore, A. M., & Russell, D. W. (2012). Sustainable Fashion Consumption: An Expanded Theory of Planned Behavior. In International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings.
• Min Kong, H., & Ko, E. (2017). Why do consumers choose sustainable fashion? A cross-cultural study of South Korean, Chinese, and Japanese consumers. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 8(3), 220–234.
• Na, Y., & Na, D. K. (2015). Investigating the sustainability of the Korean textile and fashion industry. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 27(1), 23–33. Niinimäki, K. (2010). Eco‐clothing, consumer identity and ideology. Sustainable development, 18(3), 150–162.
• Niinimäki, K., & Hassi, L. (2011). Emerging design strategies in sustainable production and consumption of textiles and clothing. Journal of Cleaner Production, 19(16), 1876–1883. doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2011.04.020
• Ozdamar Ertekin, Z., & Atik, D. (2015). Sustainable markets: Motivating factors, barriers, and remedies for mobilization of slow fashion. Journal of Macromarketing, 35(1), 53–69.
• Park, H. J., & Lin, L. M. (2018). Exploring attitude–behavior gap in sustainable consumption: comparison of recycled and upcycled fashion products. Journal of Business Research.
• Pookulangara, S., & Shephard, A. (2013). Slow fashion movement: Understanding consumer perceptions-An exploratory study. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 20(2), 200–206. doi: 10.1016/j.jretconser.2012.12.002
• Ritch, E. L., & Schröder, M. J. (2012). Accessing and affording sustainability: The experience of fashion consumption within young families. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 36(2), 203–210. doi: 10.1111/j.1470-6431.2011.01088.x
• Ritch, E. L. (2015). Consumers interpreting sustainability: moving beyond food to fashion. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 43(12), 1162–1181.
• Selamet, S. (2012). Sürdürülebilirlik ve grafik tasarım. ZKÜ Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, 8(15), 125–148.
• Shen, B., Zheng, J. H., Chow, P. S., & Chow, K. Y. (2014). Perception of fashion sustainability in online community. The Journal of the textile institute, 105(9), 971–979.
• Shen, B., Wang, Y., Lo, C. K. Y., & Shum, M. (2012). The impact of ethical fashion on consumer purchase behavior. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 16(2), 234–245. doi: 10.1108/13612021211222842
• Sinha, P., & Shah, R. (2011). Creating a global vision for sustainable textiles. Colourage, 58(1), 25–36.
• Song, H. K., & Lewis, V. D. (2013). Development of a system for sustainable fashion from recycled clothes - Based on U . S . fashion brands-, 21(1), 139–150.
• Sun, Y., Kim, K. H., & Kim, J. (2014). Examining relationships among sustainable orientation, perceived sustainable marketing performance, and customer equity in fast fashion industry. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 5(1), 74–86.
• Tama, D., Encan, B. C., & Öndoğan, Z. (2017). Unıversıty students’ attitude towards clothes in terms of environmental sustainability and slow fashion. Tekstil Ve Konfeksiyon, 27(2), 191–197.
• The True Cost Movie, (2015). Life is My Movie Entertainment. 09.07.2019 tarihinde https://truecostmovie. com/ adresinden erişildi.
• Vehmas, K., Raudaskoski, A., Heikkilä, P., Harlin, A., & Mensonen, A. (2018). Consumer attitudes and communication in circular fashion. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 22(3), 286–300.
• Wei, X., & Jung, S. (2017). Understanding Chinese consumers’ intention to purchase sustainable fashion products: The moderating role of face-saving orientation. Sustainability, 9(9), 1570.
• Yang, S., Song, Y., & Tong, S. (2017). Sustainable retailing in the fashion industry: A systematic literature review. Sustainability, 9(7), 1266.
• Young Lee, Ji, Halter, H., Johnson, K. K. P., & ju, H. (2013). Investigating fashion disposition with young consumers. Young Consumers, 14(1), 67–78. doi: 10.1108/17473611311305494