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Supra as a Space of Female Agency: Women’s Roles in the Georgian Feast and Their Significance for Maintaining of National Identity

Year 2021, Issue: Special Issue - Gender in the Caucasus and in the Diaspora, 23 - 50, 20.02.2021

Abstract

A special significance granted to food preparation and its consumption contributes to the formation of the local identity. In Georgia, the supra, a massive feast organized for different occasions, is a great example of commensality and identity forming process. However, previous research does not recognize enough the role of women in the supra culture: it was mainly perceived as a male-dominated, ritualized gathering focused on alcohol consumption. This article presents Georgian highly ritualized feast from a perspective which takes into account the leading role that women play in it and retraces the mutual dependence between the massive scale of cooking that happens during the supra and women’s agency. Furthermore, this reevaluation, based on the ethnographic research conducted in Western Georgia in 2010-2015, shows that the amount of efforts which women devote to the cooking process influences not only their families, but also maintains the Georgian identity as a whole.

References

  • Abarca, Meredith E. Voices in the Kitchen: Views of Food and the World from Working-Class Mexican and Mexican American Women. College Station: Texas A&M University Press, 2006 (Kindle version).
  • Appadurai, Arjun. “How to Make a National Cuisine: Cookbooks in Contemporary India”. Comparative Studies in Society and History 30.1 (1988): 3-24.
  • Bregradze, Levan. “Sadγegrdzelo da misi k’omp’ensat’oruli buneba. Kartuli supra da samokalako sazogadoeba,” Kartuli supra da samokalako sazogadeoba. Ed. Gia Nodia, Tbilisi: Caucasus Institute for Peace, Democracy and Development, 2000. 9-15.
  • Cairns, Kate, and Josee Johnson. Food and Femininity. London & New York: Bloomsbury Academic, 2015. Chankotadze, Ani. Cultural stereotypes – the “Holy Vessel”, the “Porcelain doll”, the “Caramel candy” and the “Bitch”. 2011, http://www.gwi-boell.de/sites/default/files/assets/gwi-boell.de/images/downloads/Cultural_Stereotypes.pdf 11 May 2018.
  • Cherfas, Jeremy ed. Not Work Alone: A Cross-Cultural View of Activities Superfluous to Survival. Beverly Hills: Sage, 1980.
  • Christie, Maria Elisa. Kitchenspace: Women, Fiestas, and Everyday Life in Central Mexico. Austin: University of Texas Press, 2008.
  • Counihan, Carole. The Anthropology of Food and Body: Gender, Meaning, and Power. New York and London: Routledge, 1999.
  • Counihan, Carole. Around the Tuscan Table: Food, Family, and Gender in Twentieth Century Florence. New York: Routledge, 2004.
  • Dragadze, Tamara. Rural Families in Soviet Georgia: A Case Study in Ratcha Province. London and New York: Routledge, 1988.
  • Dunn, Elizabeth Cullen. “Postsocialist Spores: Disease, Bodies, and the State in the Republic of Georgia”. American Ethnologist 35.2 (2008): 243–258.
  • Goldstein, Darra. The Georgian Feast: The Vibrant Culture and Savory Food of the Republic of Georgia. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1999.
  • Kotthoff, Helga. “Gender, Emotion, and Poeticity in Georgian Mourning Rituals,” Gender in Interaction: Perspectives on Feminity and Masculinity in Ethnography and Discourse. Eds. B. Baron, and H. Kotthoff, Amsterdam and Philadelphia: J. Benjamins Publ. Company, 2002, 283-327.
  • Kotthoff, Helga. “The Social Semiotics of Georgian Toast Performances: Oral Genre as Cultural Activity”. Journal of Pragmatics 24.4 (1995): 353-380.
  • Linderman, Laura Joy. “The Gendered Feast: Experiencing a Georgian Supra”. Anthropology of East Europe Review 29.2 (2011): 22-50.
  • Manning, Paul. Georgian drinking culture, http://www.dangerserviceagency.org/drinking.html 11 May 2018. Manning, Paul. Socialist Supras and Drinking Democratically: Changing Images of the Georgian Feast and Georgian Society from Socialism to Post-Socialism. 2007, http://www.mapageweb.umontreal.ca/tuitekj/cours/Manning-Supra.pdf 10 May 2018.
  • Mühlfried, Frorian. “Banquets, Grant-Eaters and the Red Intelligentsia in Post-Soviet Georgia”. Central Eurasian Studies Review 4.1 (2005): 16–19.
  • Mühlfried, Frorian. Postsowjetische Feiern: Das Georgische Bankett im Wandel. Hanover: Ibidem. 2006.
  • Nodia, Gia ed. Kartuli supra da samokalako sazogadeoba. Tbilisi: Caucasus Institute for Peace, Democracy and Development, 2000.
  • Pilcher, Jeffrey M. Que vivan los tamales!: Food and the Making of Mexican Identity. Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 1998.
  • Thornton, Mary Anna. “Sekt versus Schnapps in an Austrian village,” Constructive Drinking. Ed. Mary Douglas, New York: Routledge, 2003. 102-112.
  • Weismantel, Mary J. Food, Gender, and Poverty in the Ecuadorian Andes. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1988.
  • Wilk, Richard. “Real Belizean Food”: Building Local Identity in the Transnational Caribbean”. American Anthropologist 101.2 (1999): 244-255.
  • Yuval-Davis, Nira. Gender and Nation. London: SAGE Publications, 1997.

Supra as a Space of Female Agency: Women’s Roles in the Georgian Feast and Their Significance for Maintaining of National Identity

Year 2021, Issue: Special Issue - Gender in the Caucasus and in the Diaspora, 23 - 50, 20.02.2021

Abstract

A special significance granted to food preparation and its consumption contributes to the formation of the local identity. In Georgia, the supra, a massive feast organized for different occasions, is a great example of commensality and identity forming process. However, previous research does not recognize enough the role of women in the supra culture: it was mainly perceived as a male-dominated, ritualized gathering focused on alcohol consumption. This article presents Georgian highly ritualized feast from a perspective which takes into account the leading role that women play in it and retraces the mutual dependence between the massive scale of cooking that happens during the supra and women’s agency. Furthermore, this reevaluation, based on the ethnographic research conducted in Western Georgia in 2010-2015, shows that the amount of efforts which women devote to the cooking process influences not only their families, but also maintains the Georgian identity as a whole.

References

  • Abarca, Meredith E. Voices in the Kitchen: Views of Food and the World from Working-Class Mexican and Mexican American Women. College Station: Texas A&M University Press, 2006 (Kindle version).
  • Appadurai, Arjun. “How to Make a National Cuisine: Cookbooks in Contemporary India”. Comparative Studies in Society and History 30.1 (1988): 3-24.
  • Bregradze, Levan. “Sadγegrdzelo da misi k’omp’ensat’oruli buneba. Kartuli supra da samokalako sazogadoeba,” Kartuli supra da samokalako sazogadeoba. Ed. Gia Nodia, Tbilisi: Caucasus Institute for Peace, Democracy and Development, 2000. 9-15.
  • Cairns, Kate, and Josee Johnson. Food and Femininity. London & New York: Bloomsbury Academic, 2015. Chankotadze, Ani. Cultural stereotypes – the “Holy Vessel”, the “Porcelain doll”, the “Caramel candy” and the “Bitch”. 2011, http://www.gwi-boell.de/sites/default/files/assets/gwi-boell.de/images/downloads/Cultural_Stereotypes.pdf 11 May 2018.
  • Cherfas, Jeremy ed. Not Work Alone: A Cross-Cultural View of Activities Superfluous to Survival. Beverly Hills: Sage, 1980.
  • Christie, Maria Elisa. Kitchenspace: Women, Fiestas, and Everyday Life in Central Mexico. Austin: University of Texas Press, 2008.
  • Counihan, Carole. The Anthropology of Food and Body: Gender, Meaning, and Power. New York and London: Routledge, 1999.
  • Counihan, Carole. Around the Tuscan Table: Food, Family, and Gender in Twentieth Century Florence. New York: Routledge, 2004.
  • Dragadze, Tamara. Rural Families in Soviet Georgia: A Case Study in Ratcha Province. London and New York: Routledge, 1988.
  • Dunn, Elizabeth Cullen. “Postsocialist Spores: Disease, Bodies, and the State in the Republic of Georgia”. American Ethnologist 35.2 (2008): 243–258.
  • Goldstein, Darra. The Georgian Feast: The Vibrant Culture and Savory Food of the Republic of Georgia. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1999.
  • Kotthoff, Helga. “Gender, Emotion, and Poeticity in Georgian Mourning Rituals,” Gender in Interaction: Perspectives on Feminity and Masculinity in Ethnography and Discourse. Eds. B. Baron, and H. Kotthoff, Amsterdam and Philadelphia: J. Benjamins Publ. Company, 2002, 283-327.
  • Kotthoff, Helga. “The Social Semiotics of Georgian Toast Performances: Oral Genre as Cultural Activity”. Journal of Pragmatics 24.4 (1995): 353-380.
  • Linderman, Laura Joy. “The Gendered Feast: Experiencing a Georgian Supra”. Anthropology of East Europe Review 29.2 (2011): 22-50.
  • Manning, Paul. Georgian drinking culture, http://www.dangerserviceagency.org/drinking.html 11 May 2018. Manning, Paul. Socialist Supras and Drinking Democratically: Changing Images of the Georgian Feast and Georgian Society from Socialism to Post-Socialism. 2007, http://www.mapageweb.umontreal.ca/tuitekj/cours/Manning-Supra.pdf 10 May 2018.
  • Mühlfried, Frorian. “Banquets, Grant-Eaters and the Red Intelligentsia in Post-Soviet Georgia”. Central Eurasian Studies Review 4.1 (2005): 16–19.
  • Mühlfried, Frorian. Postsowjetische Feiern: Das Georgische Bankett im Wandel. Hanover: Ibidem. 2006.
  • Nodia, Gia ed. Kartuli supra da samokalako sazogadeoba. Tbilisi: Caucasus Institute for Peace, Democracy and Development, 2000.
  • Pilcher, Jeffrey M. Que vivan los tamales!: Food and the Making of Mexican Identity. Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 1998.
  • Thornton, Mary Anna. “Sekt versus Schnapps in an Austrian village,” Constructive Drinking. Ed. Mary Douglas, New York: Routledge, 2003. 102-112.
  • Weismantel, Mary J. Food, Gender, and Poverty in the Ecuadorian Andes. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1988.
  • Wilk, Richard. “Real Belizean Food”: Building Local Identity in the Transnational Caribbean”. American Anthropologist 101.2 (1999): 244-255.
  • Yuval-Davis, Nira. Gender and Nation. London: SAGE Publications, 1997.
There are 23 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language English
Journal Section Article
Authors

Natallia Paulovich

Early Pub Date February 20, 2021
Publication Date February 20, 2021
Published in Issue Year 2021 Issue: Special Issue - Gender in the Caucasus and in the Diaspora

Cite

MLA Paulovich, Natallia. “Supra As a Space of Female Agency: Women’s Roles in the Georgian Feast and Their Significance for Maintaining of National Identity”. Kafkasya Çalışmaları, no. Special Issue, pp. 23-50.

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