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Review
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Year 2022, Volume: 8 Issue: 2, 173 - 193, 31.12.2022
https://doi.org/10.51477/mejs.1172246

Abstract

References

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  • 2. Sudhir SP, Kumarappan A, Malakar J, Verma HN. Genetic diversity of Nigella sativa from different geographies using RAPD markers. Am. J. Life Sci. 2016;4:175-180. <DOI>
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  • 6. Chisvert A, Chafer A, Salvador A. Hair dyes in cosmetics: regulatory aspects and analytical methods. Analysis of Cosmetic Products. 2018;2:159-173. <DOI>
  • 7. Sankar J, Rawat BS, Malankar J, Padmanabha VA, Estimation of available oxygen in powder form of oxygen releaser in henna based hair dyes. SSRG Int. J. Applied Chem. 2017;4:34-37. <DOI>
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  • 18. Park AM, Khan S, Rawnsley J. Hair biology growth and pigmentation. Facial Plastic Surgery Clinics of North America. 2018;26(4):415-424. <DOI>.
  • 19. Koch SL, Tridico SR, Bernard BA, Shriver MD, Jablonski NG. The biology of human hair: A multidisciplinary review. Am J Hum Biol. 2020 Mar;32(2): e23316. <DOI>.
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  • 24. Lasisi T, Ito S, Wakamatsu K, Shaw CN. Quantifying variation in human scalp hair fiber shape and pigmentation. American Journal of Physical Anthropology. 2016;160(2):341-352. <DOI>.
  • 25. Ito S, Miyake S, Maruyama S, Suzuki I, Commo S, Nakanishi Y, Wakamatsu K. Acid hydrolysis reveals a low but constant level of pheomelanin in human black to brown hair. Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research. 2018;31(3):393-403. <DOI>.
  • 26. Ito S, Fujita K. Microanalysis of eumelanin and pheomelanin in hair and melanomas by chemical degradation and liquid chromatography. Anal Biochem 1985;144:527–536. <DOI>.
  • 27. Zviak C, Milléquant J. ‘Hair coloring: non-oxidation coloring’ and ‘Oxidation coloring’, chapters 8 and 9 in The Science of Hair Care , 2nd edition, ed. C Bouillon and J Wilkinson. Taylor and Francis. Boca Raton. 2005.
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  • 37. Robbins C.R. and R.J. Crawford. Cuticle damage and the tensile properties of human hair. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 1991; 42(1):59-67. <URL>
  • 38. Sankar J, Sawarkar S, Malankar J, Rawat B. S, & Ali, M. A. Mechanism of hair dying and their safety aspects. Research Journal of Topical and Cosmetic Sciences. 2017;8(2):72-77. <DOI>
  • 39. Tucker H. H. The coloring of human hair with semipermanent dyes. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem.1971 May; 22:379-398. <URL>
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THE CHEMISTRY MECHANISM OF HAIR DYES

Year 2022, Volume: 8 Issue: 2, 173 - 193, 31.12.2022
https://doi.org/10.51477/mejs.1172246

Abstract

One of the oldest and most well-known cosmetics, hair color has been used by numerous ancient cultures throughout history on both men and women. It involves treating hair with various chemical compounds for changing hair color. According to how long they remain in the hair, these products are primarily divided into two categories: temporary and permanent. This classification is consistent with the types of active substances used in the dyeing process as well as the dyeing method itself, which are referred to as non-oxidative and oxidative hair dye products, respectively. Permanent hair dyes often consist of active chemicals that are not dyed but are oxidized to provide the desired color. As a result, the phrase "oxidative hair dye" was emerged. The precursor part and coupler part are the two main ingredients in formulations for oxidative hair dyes. Quinonediimine intermediates are momentary compounds that are generated when combined with hydrogen peroxide (developer). As a result, the coupler agent and these compounds interact to form the appropriate hair dye molecule. Notably, the entire dyeing process requires both an alkaline medium and an oxidizing agent, often hydrogen peroxide, to ensure that the staining agents reach the cuticle widely. This review's objective is to provide information about hair dye formulations and mechanisms of action as well as repairing damaged hair and new applications.

References

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  • 2. Sudhir SP, Kumarappan A, Malakar J, Verma HN. Genetic diversity of Nigella sativa from different geographies using RAPD markers. Am. J. Life Sci. 2016;4:175-180. <DOI>
  • 3. Sudhir SP, Deshmukh VO, Verma HN. Nigella sativa seed, a novel beauty care ingredient: A review. Int. J. Pharm. Sci. Res. 2016;7:3185-3196. <DOI>
  • 4. Alam MM, Rahman ML, Haque MZ. Extraction of henna leaf dye and its dyeing effects on textile fibre. Bangladesh J. Scient. Ind. Res. 2007;42:217-222. <DOI>
  • 5. Jayaganesh S, Jainendra M, Rawat BS, Venkataramana AP. Influence of gamma radiation on microbial and viscosity parameters of henna based hair colour. Int. J. New Technol. Res. 2016;2:11-15. <DOI>
  • 6. Chisvert A, Chafer A, Salvador A. Hair dyes in cosmetics: regulatory aspects and analytical methods. Analysis of Cosmetic Products. 2018;2:159-173. <DOI>
  • 7. Sankar J, Rawat BS, Malankar J, Padmanabha VA, Estimation of available oxygen in powder form of oxygen releaser in henna based hair dyes. SSRG Int. J. Applied Chem. 2017;4:34-37. <DOI>
  • 8. Sankar J, Sawarkar S, Malakar J, Rawat BS, Ali MA. Mechanism of hair dying and their safety aspects: a review. Asian J. Applied Sci. 2017;10 (4):190-196. <DOI>
  • 9. Draelos ZK. Hair cosmetics. Dermatol Clin 1991; 9:19–27. <URL>
  • 10. Bolduc C, Shapiro J. Hair care products. Waving, straightening, conditioning, and coloring. Clin Dermatol 2001; 19:431-6. <DOI>
  • 11. Harrison S, Sinclair R. Hair colouring, permanent styling and hair structure. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2004; 2:180-185. <DOI>
  • 12. Da Franca, Aparecida S, Dario MF, Esteves VB, Baby AR, Velasco MVR. Types of hair dye and their mechanisms of action. Cosmetics. 2015;2: 110-126. <DOI>
  • 13. Yutaka Shimomura1 and Angela M. Christiano1, 2 (22 September 2010) Annual Review of Genomics and Human Genetics 11:109-132
  • 14. Gillian E Westgate,Natalia V Botchkareva,Desmond J Tobin (30 January 2013) The biology of hair diversity Citations: 35 15. Olivier J. X. Morel‡ and Robert M. Christie*§ ( January 25, 2011) Current Trends in the Chemistry of Permanent Hair Dyeing Chem. Rev. 2011, 111, 4, 2537–2561
  • 16. Célia F. Cruz 1 , Cristiana Costa 1 , Andreia C. Gomes 2 , Teresa Matamá 1,2 and Artur Cavaco-Paulo 1, (20 May 2016; Accepted: 14 July 2016; Published: 25 July 2016 ) Human Hair and the Impact of Cosmetic Procedures: A Review on Cleansing and Shape-Modulating Cosmetics Cosmetics 2016, 3, 26.
  • 17. Kaplan PD, Polefka T, Grove G, Daly S, Jumbelic L, Harper D, Bianchini R. Grey hair: Clinical investigation into changes in hair fibres with loss of pigmentation in a photoprotected population. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2011;33(2): 171-182. <DOI>.
  • 18. Park AM, Khan S, Rawnsley J. Hair biology growth and pigmentation. Facial Plastic Surgery Clinics of North America. 2018;26(4):415-424. <DOI>.
  • 19. Koch SL, Tridico SR, Bernard BA, Shriver MD, Jablonski NG. The biology of human hair: A multidisciplinary review. Am J Hum Biol. 2020 Mar;32(2): e23316. <DOI>.
  • 20. Ozeki H, Ito S, Wakamatsu K, Thody AJ. Spectrophotometric characterization of eumelanin and Pheomelanin in hair. Pigment Cell Research, 1996;9(5):265–270. <DOI>.
  • 21. Shekar SN, Duffy DL, Frudakis T, Montgomery GW, James MR, Sturm RA, Martin NG. Spectrophotometric methods for quantifying pigmentation in human hairinfluence of MC1R genotype and environment. Photochemistry and Photobiology. 2008;84(3):719-726. <DOI>.
  • 22. Vaughn MR, van Oorschot RAH, Baindur-Hudson S. A comparison of hair colour measurement by digital image analysis with reflective spectrophotometry. Forensic Science International, 2009;183(1–3): 97–101. <DOI>.
  • 23. Sealy R, Hyde J, Felix C, Menon I, Prota G: Eumelanins and phaeomelanins: Characterization by electron spin resonance spectroscopy. Science. 1982;217: 545–547. <DOI>.
  • 24. Lasisi T, Ito S, Wakamatsu K, Shaw CN. Quantifying variation in human scalp hair fiber shape and pigmentation. American Journal of Physical Anthropology. 2016;160(2):341-352. <DOI>.
  • 25. Ito S, Miyake S, Maruyama S, Suzuki I, Commo S, Nakanishi Y, Wakamatsu K. Acid hydrolysis reveals a low but constant level of pheomelanin in human black to brown hair. Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research. 2018;31(3):393-403. <DOI>.
  • 26. Ito S, Fujita K. Microanalysis of eumelanin and pheomelanin in hair and melanomas by chemical degradation and liquid chromatography. Anal Biochem 1985;144:527–536. <DOI>.
  • 27. Zviak C, Milléquant J. ‘Hair coloring: non-oxidation coloring’ and ‘Oxidation coloring’, chapters 8 and 9 in The Science of Hair Care , 2nd edition, ed. C Bouillon and J Wilkinson. Taylor and Francis. Boca Raton. 2005.
  • 28. Hefford R. Colourants and dyes for the cosmetics industry. Handbook of Textile and Industrial Dyeing. 2011;2:175-203. <DOI>.
  • 29. Ballarin B, Galli S, Morigi M. Study of dyeing properties of semipermanent dyestuffs for hair.Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2007; 29:49–57. <DOI>
  • 30. Barel A. O, Paye M, & Maibach H. I (Eds.). Handbook of cosmetic science and technology. CRC Press. 2014; 51. <URL>
  • 31. Brown K.C. Hair coloring. hair and hair heater. 2018;191-215. <URL>
  • 32. Da França S. A, Dario M. F, Esteves V. B, Baby A. R, & Velasco M. V. R. Types of hair dye and their mechanisms of action, Cosmetics.2015 June; 2(2):110-126. <DOI>
  • 33. He L, Michailidou F, Gahlon H. L, & Zeng W. Hair dye ingredients and potential health risks from exposure to hair dyeing. American Chemical Society.2022 June; 35(6):901–915. <DOI>
  • 34. Les colorants Wackherr (LCW). Presentation technique About dyes capillaries; LCW: Saint Paulo, Brazil, 2008. (In Portugal). <URL>
  • 35. Lewis D, Mama J, & Hawkes J. A review of aspects of oxidative hair dye chemistry with special reference to N-nitrosamine formation. Materials. 2013 January; 6(2):517-534. <DOI>
  • 36. Morel O. J, & Christie R. M. Current trends in the chemistry of permanent hair dyeing. Chemical Reviews. 2011;111(4):2537-2561. <DOI>
  • 37. Robbins C.R. and R.J. Crawford. Cuticle damage and the tensile properties of human hair. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 1991; 42(1):59-67. <URL>
  • 38. Sankar J, Sawarkar S, Malankar J, Rawat B. S, & Ali, M. A. Mechanism of hair dying and their safety aspects. Research Journal of Topical and Cosmetic Sciences. 2017;8(2):72-77. <DOI>
  • 39. Tucker H. H. The coloring of human hair with semipermanent dyes. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem.1971 May; 22:379-398. <URL>
  • 40. Harrison S, Sinclair R, Hair coloring, permanent styling and hair structure. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2004, 2, 180–185. <DOI>
  • 41. Brown K.C. Hair coloring. In Hair and Hair Care; Johnson D H, Marcel Dekker: New York, NY, USA, 1997.35 21 Draelos, Z.K. Hair cosmetics. Dermatol. Clin. 1991, 9, 19–27.
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  • 43. More O, Christie R M, Greaves A, Morgan, K.M. Enhanced model for the diffusivity of a dye molecule into human hair fibre based on molecular modelling techniques, Color. Technol. 2008, 124, 301–309.
  • 44. Bolduc C, Shapiro, J. Hair care products: Waving, straightening, conditioning and coloring. Clin. Dermatol. 2001, 19, 431–436. <DOI>
  • 45. Kojima T, Yamada, H, Yamamoto T, Matsushita Y, Fukushima K. Dyeing regions of oxidative hair dyes in human hair investigated by nanoscale secondary ion mass spectrometry. Colloid Surf. B 2013, 106, 140–144. <DOI>
  • 46. Wolfram L J, Hair cosmetics. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, Barel, A O, Paye M, Maibach H I, Eds. Marcel Dekker: 2001.New York, NY, USA.
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  • 50. Morita T., Kitagawa M., Yamamoto S., Sogabe A., Imura T., Fukuoka T., Kitamoto D. Glycolipid biosurfactants, mannosylerythritol lipids, repair the damaged hair. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010 Jan;59(5):267-272. <DOI>
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There are 83 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language English
Journal Section Review
Authors

Arzu Yıldırım 0000-0002-8628-9188

Nur Belinda Demir 0000-0001-8077-9779

Berfin Ak İzgi 0000-0001-8077-9779

Büşra Nur Erkol 0000-0003-3264-0080

Çağla Özsu 0000-0001-7383-7600

Gülşah Eşlik Aydemir 0000-0003-3971-2323

Mine Mustafaoğlu 0000-0001-6047-6375

Murat Kızıl 0000-0002-3591-6962

Nubar Ayhan 0000-0003-1203-1392

Sevil Emen 0000-0002-5326-0434

Publication Date December 31, 2022
Submission Date September 8, 2022
Acceptance Date December 5, 2022
Published in Issue Year 2022 Volume: 8 Issue: 2

Cite

IEEE A. Yıldırım, “THE CHEMISTRY MECHANISM OF HAIR DYES”, MEJS, vol. 8, no. 2, pp. 173–193, 2022, doi: 10.51477/mejs.1172246.