SELÜLOZ ESASLI DOKUMA KUMAŞLARIN KONFOR VE PERFORMANS ÖZELLİKLERİ

Year 2019, , 100 - 104, 30.06.2019

Duygu Yavuzkasap Ayakta , Nazlı Cinperi Sezin Çelikkıran Eren Oner

https://doi.org/10.22531/muglajsci.494694

Abstract

Son yıllarda, sürdürebilirlik üzerine ilginin artmasıyla doğal ve yapay selüloz lifleri önemli hale gelmiştir. Sanayileşmenin hızlanmasıyla birlikte kaynak tüketimi ve atık oluşumu hızla artmış ve çevre kayıplarının ve ekolojik zararların azaltılmasında tekstil ürünlerinde çevre dostu liflerin kullanılması önem kazanmıştır. Bu çalışmada farklı sürdürebilir liflere ve farklı atkı sıklıklarına sahip kamgarn kumaşların konfor ve kullanım performanslarının araştırılması amaçlanmıştır. Üç farklı sıklık seviyesinde 15 tip dokuma kumaş tasarlanmış, pamuk, Tencel, bambu, Promodal ve ekolojik viskon olmak üzere beş farklı lif tipi kullanılarak üretilmiştir. Dokuma kumaşların konfor ve performans özelliklerinin karşılaştırılabilmesi için hava geçirgenliği, sprey derecesi, kılcal emme ve wira buhar çekmesi değerleri belirlenmiştir. Ayrıca kumaşların Cantilever eğilme prensibine göre eğilme uzunluğu değerleri FAST-2 ile ölçülmüştür. Elde edilen sonuçlara göre, bambu ve Tencel kumaşların daha dökümlü olmaları sebebiyle kadın giysileri için daha tercih edilebilir olacakları söylenebilir. Buna ek olarak, pamuk ipliklerinden üretilen kumaşlar atkı ve çözgü yönünde benzer çekmeler göstermiştir. Bu nedenle, bu kumaşlar giysiler ve son kullanıcılar için tercih edilen seçenek olabilirler.

Keywords

Tencel, Promodal, bambu, ekolojik viskoz, kamgarn kumaş, konfor, performans

COMFORT AND PERFORMANCE PROPERTIES OF THE CELLULOSE BASED WOVEN FABRICS

Abstract

In recent years, natural and man-made celluloses have become more important with the increase in the desire for sustainability. With the acceleration of industrialization, the consumption of resources and waste generation have increased rapidly, and the use of environmentally friendly fibers in textiles has gained importance for the reduction of environmental losses and ecological damages. This study aimed to investigate comfort and usage performance properties of the worsted fabrics which had different sustainable fibers and weft settings. Fifteen types of woven fabrics with three different weft density levels were designed, and produced with five different fiber types which were cotton, Tencel, bamboo, Promodal and eco-responsible viscose. Air permeability, spray rating, wicking and wira vapour shrinkage values were determined to compare the comfort and performance properties of the woven fabrics. Besides, FAST-2 values of the fabrics were measured from bending length according to the cantilever bending principle. According to the results, it can be said that the fabrics produced from bamboo and Tencel can be preferred for women's wear because of being more draped. In addition, fabrics made of cotton yarns showed similar shortening in the direction of weft and warp. Therefore, they may be the preferred choice for garments and end-users

Keywords

Tencel, Promodal, bamboo, eco-responsible viscose, worsted fabric, comfort, performance

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