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ELASTİK KUMAŞLARDAKİ DÜZ DİKİŞLERİN TEKRARLI YÜKLEME ŞARTLARI ALTINDA KAYMA VE SIRITMA DAVRANIŞI

Year 2010, Volume: 20 Issue: 1, 65 - 69, 01.06.2010

Abstract

Bu çalışmada, elastik dokuma kumaşlardaki düz dikişlerin (dikim tipi 1.01.01 SSa-1 dikiş tipi 301) tekrarlı yükleme şartları altında kayma ve sırıtma davranışları analiz edilmiştir. Tekrarlı uzama ve geri toplanmanın etkileri araştırılmıştır. Bu amaçla, deneylerde kullanılmak üzere iki farklı elastanlı iplik, iki farklı atkı sıklığı ve iki farklı kumaş tipi seçilmiş, böylece farklı özelliklere sahip altı kumaş numunesi elde edilmiştir. Dikiş kayması ve sırıtma miktarı üzerine kumaşların mekaniksel özelliklerinin etkisi de deneysel olarak incelenmiş ve istatistiksel olarak değerlendirilmiştir. Dikilmiş kumaşlardaki dikiş kayması ve sırıtması kumaş uzayabilirliğinin artması ve atkı sıklığının azalması ile artmaktadır. Numunelerin tekrarlı yükleme şartları altında dikiş kayması değerleri 7-14 mm arasında ve sırıtma değerleri de 0.86-0.94 mm arasında bulunmuştur. Elastik kumaşlardaki dikişlerin 300 devirli yükleme sonucunda dikiş kayması ve sırıtmasının fotoğrafları optik mikroskopta görüntülenmiştir

References

  • 1. British Standards Institution 3320, 1970, “Method for Determination of Slippage Resistance of Yarns in Woven Fabrics”, BSI, London
  • 2. American Society forTesting and Materials,1990, Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Textiles-Yarns, Fabrics and General Test Methods, Standard Specification for Tensile Testing For Textiles, “Determining Yarn Slippage in Sewn Seams Made From Upholstery Fabrics (Dynamic Fatigue Method)”, ASTM Designation:D 4033-82, ASTM,Easton,PA,USA
  • 3. Uçar N.,2002, “ Grinning of ISO 514 Stitched Seams on Knitted Under the Effects of Repeated Extension and Recovery”, Textile Research J, 72(11), pp.944-948.
  • 4. Gurarda A., Meric B., 2005, “Sewing Needle Penetration Forces and Elastane Damage During the Sewing of Cotton/ Elastane Woven Fabrics”, Textile Research J, 75(8), pp.628-633.
  • 5. Kaya S., Erdoğan Ç.,2008, “A Research About Factors Which Cause Quality Defects in Apparel Plants At The Sewing Department”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, Yıl:18(2), s:135-141.
  • 6. Shimazaki K. and Lloyd D.,1990, “ Opening Behaviour of Locksitch Seams in Woven Fabrics Under Cyclic Loading Conditions”, Textile Research J, 60(11),pp.654-662.
  • 7. Webster J., Laing R. M. And Enlow R.L.,1998, “Effects of Repeated Extension and Recovery on Selected Physical Properties of ISO- 301 Stitched Seams, Part II: Theoretical Model”, Textile Research J, 68(12), pp. 881-888.
  • 8. Meric B., Gurarda A., 2002, “Determination of Performance Properties of Cotton / Lycra Woven Fabrics”, Proceedings of XII th Textile and Leather Romanian Conference, Romania, pp. 37-51
  • 9. American Society for Testing and Materials,1990, Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Textiles-Yarns, Fabrics and General Test Methods, Standard Specification for Tensile Testing For Textiles, “Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics”, ASTM Designation: D 1683-81, ASTM, Easton,PA,USA
  • 10. American Society forTesting and Materials, 1990,Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Textiles-Yarns, Fabrics and General Test Methods, Standard Specification for Tensile Testing For Textiles, “Test Methods for Breaking Load and Elongation of Textile Fabrics”, ASTM Designation: D 1682, ASTM, Easton, PA,USA
  • 11. Kalaoğlu F., and Meric B., 2002, “Seam Opening of ISO-301 Stitched Seams in Woven Stretch Fabrics Under Repeated Loading Conditions”, First International Textile , Clothing&Design Conference, Dubrovnik, Croatia, pp.371- 375 .
  • 12. (http://www.amerfird.com/seam-quality.htm)

SLIPPAGE AND GRINNING BEHAVIOUR OF LOCKSTITCH SEAMS IN ELASTIC FABRICS UNDER CYCLIC LOADING CONDITIONS

Year 2010, Volume: 20 Issue: 1, 65 - 69, 01.06.2010

Abstract

In this study, slippage and grinning behaviour of lockstitch seams on elastic woven fabrics (seam type 1.01.01 SSa-1 stitch type 301) under cyclic loading conditions has been analyzed. The influence of repeated extension and recovery was investigated. For this purpose two different fabric types with two different weft densities and with two different elastane yarn types were taken as samples for the experiments. In total six samples having different specifications were obtained. The effects of mechanical properties of fabrics on the amount of seam slippage and seam grinning are experimentally investigated and statistically analyzed. Seam slippage and grinning on the sewn fabrics increase with decrease weft density and with increasing fabric extensibility. The slippage results of the samples were between 7-14 mm and grinning results were between 0.86-0.94 mm. under cyclic loading conditions. Photographs were taken with an optical microscope to show the slippage and grinning behaviour of the elastic fabrics after 300 cyclic loading conditions

References

  • 1. British Standards Institution 3320, 1970, “Method for Determination of Slippage Resistance of Yarns in Woven Fabrics”, BSI, London
  • 2. American Society forTesting and Materials,1990, Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Textiles-Yarns, Fabrics and General Test Methods, Standard Specification for Tensile Testing For Textiles, “Determining Yarn Slippage in Sewn Seams Made From Upholstery Fabrics (Dynamic Fatigue Method)”, ASTM Designation:D 4033-82, ASTM,Easton,PA,USA
  • 3. Uçar N.,2002, “ Grinning of ISO 514 Stitched Seams on Knitted Under the Effects of Repeated Extension and Recovery”, Textile Research J, 72(11), pp.944-948.
  • 4. Gurarda A., Meric B., 2005, “Sewing Needle Penetration Forces and Elastane Damage During the Sewing of Cotton/ Elastane Woven Fabrics”, Textile Research J, 75(8), pp.628-633.
  • 5. Kaya S., Erdoğan Ç.,2008, “A Research About Factors Which Cause Quality Defects in Apparel Plants At The Sewing Department”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, Yıl:18(2), s:135-141.
  • 6. Shimazaki K. and Lloyd D.,1990, “ Opening Behaviour of Locksitch Seams in Woven Fabrics Under Cyclic Loading Conditions”, Textile Research J, 60(11),pp.654-662.
  • 7. Webster J., Laing R. M. And Enlow R.L.,1998, “Effects of Repeated Extension and Recovery on Selected Physical Properties of ISO- 301 Stitched Seams, Part II: Theoretical Model”, Textile Research J, 68(12), pp. 881-888.
  • 8. Meric B., Gurarda A., 2002, “Determination of Performance Properties of Cotton / Lycra Woven Fabrics”, Proceedings of XII th Textile and Leather Romanian Conference, Romania, pp. 37-51
  • 9. American Society for Testing and Materials,1990, Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Textiles-Yarns, Fabrics and General Test Methods, Standard Specification for Tensile Testing For Textiles, “Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics”, ASTM Designation: D 1683-81, ASTM, Easton,PA,USA
  • 10. American Society forTesting and Materials, 1990,Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Textiles-Yarns, Fabrics and General Test Methods, Standard Specification for Tensile Testing For Textiles, “Test Methods for Breaking Load and Elongation of Textile Fabrics”, ASTM Designation: D 1682, ASTM, Easton, PA,USA
  • 11. Kalaoğlu F., and Meric B., 2002, “Seam Opening of ISO-301 Stitched Seams in Woven Stretch Fabrics Under Repeated Loading Conditions”, First International Textile , Clothing&Design Conference, Dubrovnik, Croatia, pp.371- 375 .
  • 12. (http://www.amerfird.com/seam-quality.htm)
There are 12 citations in total.

Details

Other ID JA87ZB62ZM
Journal Section Articles
Authors

Ayça Gürarda This is me

Binnaz Meriç This is me

Publication Date June 1, 2010
Submission Date June 1, 2010
Published in Issue Year 2010 Volume: 20 Issue: 1

Cite

APA Gürarda, A., & Meriç, B. (2010). SLIPPAGE AND GRINNING BEHAVIOUR OF LOCKSTITCH SEAMS IN ELASTIC FABRICS UNDER CYCLIC LOADING CONDITIONS. Textile and Apparel, 20(1), 65-69.

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