İPEK/PAMUK KARIŞIMININ OPEN-END ROTOR İPLİK EĞİRME SİSTEMİNDE EĞRİLMESİ ÜZERİNE BİR ARAŞTIRMA

Year 2016, Volume: 26 Issue: 2, 221 - 229, 01.12.2016

Esra Akbaş Pınar Çelik

Abstract

İpek özel ve pahalı bir liftir. Bulunduğu ürünün özelliklerini ve katma değerini artırır. Open-end rotor iplikçiliği, kısa lif iplikçiliğinde ring iplik eğirme yönteminden sonra en çok tercih edilen eğirme yöntemidir. Üretim prosesi ring iplikçiliğine göre daha kısa ve üretim hızı daha yüksek olduğu için maliyet açısından daha avantajlıdır. Bu çalışmada, open-end rotor iplikçiliğinde ipek lifinin eğrilebilirliğinin incelenmesi amaçlanmıştır. Karışımda ipek oranının, büküm katsayısının, rotor hızının, rotor tipinin, açıcı silindir hızının ve açıcı silindir tipinin iplik özelliklerine etkisi incelenmiştir. Ayrıca Mesdan-lab 294E numune örme makinesinde orta sıklıkta süprem kumaşlar örülerek, karışımda ipek oranının hava geçirgenliği, aşınma dayanımı (ağırlık kaybı), patlama mukavemeti, yüzey sürtünme katsayısı, kumaş kalınlığı ve gramajı değerlerine etkisi incelenmiştir. Karışımda ipek oranı arttıkça iplik kopma uzaması (%) artmış, iplik tüylülüğü değerleri yükselmiştir. Kumaşlarda da ipek oranının artışına bağlı olarak hava geçirgenliği değeri ve aşınma dayanımı azalmıştır

Keywords

İpek Artığı, Open-end Rotor İplikçiliği, İplik Özellikleri, Hava Geçirgenliği, Aşınma Dayanımı

A RESEARCH FOR SPINNING SILK/COTTON BLEND ON OPEN-END ROTOR SPINNING SYSTEM

Abstract

Silk is a special and expensive natural fiber. It enhances added value of products that its used in. Open-end rotor spinning system is the second most favorite spinning system in short staple fiber spinning systems after ring spinning. This spinning system has cost advantages because of its less process needs and high production rate in comparison with ring spinning system. In this study, spinnability of silk fiber in open-end rotor spinning system was investigated. The effects of silk fiber ratio in blends, twist coefficient, rotor speed, rotor type, opening roller type and speed to yarn properties were investigated. Furthermore, single jersey fabrics were produced by Mesdan-lab 294E with medium stitch density and the effect of silk fiber ratio on air permeability, abrasion resistance (through weight loss), surface friction coefficient, thickness and weight of fabrics were investigated. Yarn hairiness and breaking elongation were increased with increasing silk ratio on yarns. Also, air permeability and abrasion resistance of the fabrics were decreased with increasing silk ratio on them

Keywords

Silk Waste, Open-end Rotor Spinning, Yarn Properties, Air-permeability, Abrasion Resistance

References

• 1. Yazıcıoğlu, G., Gülümser, G., 1993, İpek ve Diğer Salgı Lifleri, İzmir.
• 2. Chollakup, R., Osselin, J.F., et al., 2008a, Effects of Blending Parameters on the Cross-section Fiber Migration of Silk/Cotton Blends, Textile Research Journal, 78(4):361-369.
• 3. Chollakup, R., Sinoimeri, A., Philippe, et al., 2004, Tactile sensory analysis applied to silk/cotton knitted fabrics, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 16, Issue: 1/2, 132 – 140.
• 4. Chollakup, R., Sinoimeri, A., Dréan, J-Y., 2003, Influence of blending factors: blending method, type and the proportion of silk waste on Thai silk/cotton yarn characteristics, In Book of Abstracts of The Fiber Society, Spring 2003 Technical Meeting, June 30-July 2, 2003, Loughborough University, Loughborough , UK, p. 131-132.
• 5. Chollakup, R., Suesat, J., Ujjin, S.,2008b, “Effect of Blending Factors on Eri Silk and Cotton Blended Yarn and Fabric Characteristics”, Macromol.Symp., 264, 44-49 (http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/masy.200850407/pdf)
• 6. Chollakup, R., Suesat, J., Ujjin, S., 2010, Influence of Eri silk fiber on physical characteristics and dyeing properties of Eri silk/cotton blended yarn, Color Technol.126(1): 42-47.
• 7. Kumar, R., Chattopadhyay, R., Sharma, I.C., 2001, Feasibility of Spinning Silk/Silk Blends On Cotton System, Textile Asia, February: 21-31.
• 8. Loghavi, A., Najar, S.S., Etrati, S.M., et al., 2008, “A Study of Spinning Persian Silk Waste/Cotton Blends on Rotor Spinning System” (http://elearning.lib.fcu.edu.tw/jspui/bitstream/2377/3954/1/ce05atc902007000077.pdf)
• 9. Matsumoto, Y., Tsuchiya, I., et al., 1991b, Irregularities of Blended Yarns in Waste Silk Spinning System, Journal of Sericultural Science of Japan, 60(4):263-269.
• 10. Matsumoto, Y., Tsuchiya, I., Kyuma, H., 1989, Effects of Yarn Structures in Composite Spun Silk Yarns, Journal of Sericultural Science of Japan, 58(1):7- 14.
• 11. Matsumoto, Y., Tsuchiya, I., Toriumi K., 1991a, Silk/Cotton/Scoured Silk Core Twin Spun Yarns, Textile Research Journal, 61(3):131-136.
• 12. Matsumoto, Y., Tsuchiya, I., Toriumi K., 1992, Properties of Double-Core Twin Spun Silk Yarns and Fabrics, Textile Research Journal, 62(12):710-714.
• 13. Nibikora I., Wanga J., Optimum Selection of the Opening Roller and Navel for Rotor Spun Silk/Cashmere Blended Yarn, FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe, 2010, Vol. 18, No. 5 (82), 35-38.
• 14. Özgüney, A.T.,Seçim, P., Demir, A., et al., 2015, Ecological Printing of Madder Over Various Natural Fibres, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, Vol.25, 2, 166-171.
• 15. Quaynor, L., Nakakima, M., Takahashi, M., 1999, Dimensional Changes in Knitted Silk and Cotton Fabrics with Laundering, Textile Research Journal, 69(4), 285-291. (
• 16. Rameshkumar, C., Rengasamy, R.S., Anbumani, N., 2009, Studies on Polyester/Waste Silk Core-spun Yarns and Fabrics, Journal of Industrial Textiles, 38(3):191-203.
• 17. Das, S., Ghosh, A., 2008, An Investigation on Yarn Imperfections of Indian Tasar Silk, Journal of Natural Fibers, 5:4, 396-403, DOI:10.1080/15440470802456666
• 18. Aksakal,B., Tsobkallo, E., Darvish, D., 2009, Mechanical properties of Bombyx mori silk yarns studied with tensile testing method, Journal of Applied Polymer Science, Vol. 113: 2514–2523.
• 19. Süpüren, G., Özdil, N., Hes, L., 2015, Prickle and Handle Properties of fabrics produced from specialty animal fibers, Textile Research Journal, Vol.85(20), 2155-2167.
• 20. Ergün M., 1985, “SPSS for Windows”, Ocak Yayınevi, Ankara.
• 21. Kayri, M., 2009, Araştırmalarda Gruplar Arasında Farkın Belirlenmesine Yönelik Çoklu Karşılaştırma (POST-HOC) Teknikleri, Fırat University Journal of Social Science, Cilt.19, Sayı.1:51-64.
• 22. Akbaş, E., 2011, İpek Liflerinin Open-end Rotor İplikçiliğinde Eğrilmesi Üzerine Bir Araştırma - E.Ü.Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü.
• 23. Basu, A., 2015, Advances in Silk Science and Technology, Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 163, The Textile Institute.
• 24. Klein, W., “The Technology of Short-staple Spinning”, The Textile Institute, Manual of Textile Technology, Short –staple spinning series.
• 25. Temel, E., Çelik, P.; 2010, “A Research on spinnability of 100% Polyester and Polyester- Cotton Blend Sirospun Yarns”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, OcakMart: 23-29.