Research Article
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Year 2019, Volume: 29 Issue: 1, 11 - 21, 26.03.2019
https://doi.org/10.32710/tekstilvekonfeksiyon.425888

Abstract

References

  • 1. Lawrence, A.C., 2003, Fundamentals of Spun Yarn Technology, CRC Press, Washington, United States of America, pp: 46-47.
  • 2. Phan K. H., 1991, Electron Microscopy and The Characterization of Keratin Fibres, Commett Eurotex, Portugal, pp:47-70.
  • 3. Dellal G., 2001, “Antalya İlinde Yetiştirilen Kıl Keçilerinden Elde Edilen Alt Liflerin Tekstil Sanayii Açısından Uygunluklarının Belirlenmesi”, Tarım Bilimleri Dergisi, Vol:7 (2), pp: 131-134.
  • 4. Watkins, P. and Buxton, A., 1992, Luxury Fibers: Rare Materials for High Added Value, The Economist Intelligence Unit Special Reports, No.2633, United Kingdom, pp: 6-44.
  • 5. Phan K. H., Wortmann F. J., 1996, “Identification and Classification of Cashmere”, Europe Fine Fibre Network, Vol:4, pp: 45.
  • 6. Dalton J., 2001, Cashmere, in Silk, Mohair, Cashmere and Other Luxury Fibres (Ed.: Franck R.R), Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, United Kingdom, pp: 133-170.
  • 7. Russel A., 1998, The Establishment of Cashmere Production in The European Union, (A Feasibility Study Undertaken for the European Network for Livestok Systems in Integrated Rural Devolepment), Macaulay Land Use Research Institute, Craigiebuckler, United Kingdom, pp: 2-3.
  • 8. Dellal İ., Keskin G., Dellal G., 2002, “GAP Bölgesinde Küçükbaş Hayvan Yetiştiren İşletmelerin Ekonomik Analizi ve Hayvansal Ürünlerin Pazara Arzı”, TÜBİTAK Türkiye Tarımsal Araştırma Proje Raporu 2002-2, Ankara, Turkey, pp: 68-69.
  • 9. Bolat Ü., 2006, Cashmere Production Potential and Physical Characteristics of Hair Goats Raised in Adana Region and Its Application Areas in Textile Sector, MSc. Thesis, University of Çukurova, Institute of Natural and Applied Sciences, Department of Animal Science, Adana, Turkey.
  • 10. Kuloğlu B. H., 2010, Some Physical Properties of Coarse and Down Fibers Obtained From Hair Goat Kids, MSc Thesis, University of Ankara, Graduate School of Natural and Applied Sciences, Department of Home Economics, Ankara, Turkey.
  • 11. Karakuş F., Bingöl M., Kor A., Tuncer S., Yılmaz A., Cengiz F., 2010, “Norduz ve Kıl Keçilerinden Elde Edile Üst ve Alt Kıllarda Bazı Fiziksel Özellikleri Arasındaki Fenotipik Korelasyonlar”, Ulusal Keçicilik Kongresi Bildiriler Kitabı, Çanakkale Onsekiz Mart Üniversitesi Matbaası, Çanakkale, Turkey, pp: 438-442.
  • 12. Türkiye İstatistik Kurumu, 2016, Hayvancılık İstatistikleri, https://biruni.tuik.gov.tr/hayvancilikapp/hayvancilik.zul, (Date of access: 15.06.2017).
  • 13. Erduran, H., 2010, Kıl Keçisi, in Native Animal Genetic Resources of Türkiye (Ed.: Soysal M. İ.), Tekirdağ, Turkey, pp: 167.
  • 14. Varley R. A., 2006, “A Modified Method of Cuticle Scale Height Determination for Animal Fibers”, AATTC Review, pp: 38-41.
  • 15. McGregor B. A., 2012, Properties, Processing and Performance of Rare and Natural Animal Fibres, Rural Industries Research and Development Corporation Publication, Barton, Australia, pp: 6-8.
  • 16. Weijer F., 2011, Cashmere Value Chain Analysis Afghanistan, http://www.ahdp.net/reports/Cashmere%20Value%20Chain%20Analysis.pdf, (Date of Access: 03.01 2015).
  • 17. Braun A. L., 2000, “Adding Further Value to South African Indigenous Goats Through The Production of Cashmere” https://researchspace.csir.co.za/dspace/bitstream/ handle/10204/1198/Braun_2000.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y, (Date of Access: 17.04.2014)
  • 18. IWTO-47-2013: Measurement of The Mean and Distribution of Fibre Diameter of Wool Using an Optical Fibre Diameter Analyser.
  • 19. TS-1140-2005: Yün ve Benzeri Liflerde Lif Uzunluklarının Tayini-Tek Lif Uzunluk Ölçme Metodu.
  • 20. ASTM-D-3822-2014: Standard Test Method for Tensile Properties of Single Textile Fibers.
  • 21. Hunter, I. M., Kruger, P.J., 1967, “A Comparison of The Tensile Properties of Kemp, Mohair and Wool Fibers”, Textile Research Journal, Vol: 37 (3), pp: 220-224.
  • 22. Davaslıgil Ş., 1966, Yün İplik Teknoloji ve Makinaları, Teknik Üniversite Matbaası, İstanbul, Turkey, pp: 388.
  • 23. AWTA Ltd. Information Sheets, 2013, “What’s All The Fuss About Fibre Curvature?”, https://www.awtawooltesting.com.au/index.php/en/resources/fact-sheets/fact-sheet-fibre-curvature/viewdocument, (Date of Access: 06.05.2018).
  • 24. Cook G. J., 2001, Handbook of Textile Fibres, Vol.1: Natural Fibres, Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, United Kingdom, pp: 79-141.
  • 25. IWTO–58-2000: Scanning Electron Microscopic Analysis of Speciality Fibres and Sheep’s Wool and Their Blends.
  • 26. Shamey R. and Sawatwarakul W., 2014, “Innovative Critical Solutions in The Dyeing of Protein Textile Materials”, Textile Progress, Vol: 46 (4), pp: 323-450.
  • 27. Tester, D., McGregor, B A and Staynes, L., 2015, “Ultrafine Wools: Comfort and Handle Properties for Next-to-Skin Knitwear and Manufacturing Performance”, Textile Research Journal, Vol: 85 (11), pp: 1181–1189.
  • 28. Tester, D.H., 1987, “Fine Structure of Cashmere and Superfine Merino Wool”, Textile Research Journal, Vol: 57 (4), pp: 213-219.
  • 29. McGregor B. A., 2018, Physical, Chemical, and Tensile Properties of Cashmere, Mohair, Alpaca, and Other Rare Animal Fibers, in Handbook of Properties of Textile and Technical Fibres, (Ed.: Bunsell A.R.), Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, United Kingdom, Second Edition, pp: 105-136.
  • 30. Rocco F. and Maurizio G., 2010, “Yarn Strength Prediction: A Practical Model Based On Artificial Neural Network”, Advances in Mechanical Engineering, 2010, pp: 5.
  • 31. Morton W. E., and Hearl J.W.S., 2008, Physical Properties of Textile Fibers, Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, United Kingdom, pp: 290.
  • 32. Dellal G., Erdoğan Z., Koyuncu M., Söylemezoğlu F., Pehlivan E., Tuncer S., 2010, Ulusal Keçicilik Kongresi Bildiriler Kitabı (Ed.: Ataşoğlu C.), Çanakkale Onsekiz Mart Üniversitesi Matbaası, Çanakkale, Turkey, pp: 434.

THE COMPARISON OF PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF ANATOLIAN NATIVE GOAT DOWN FIBERS WITH CASHMERE

Year 2019, Volume: 29 Issue: 1, 11 - 21, 26.03.2019
https://doi.org/10.32710/tekstilvekonfeksiyon.425888

Abstract















































































































Very
fine and soft down-hair fibers of native goats can have a potential as a
valuable raw-material source for high quality products. Therefore, down-hair
fibers were collected from native goats raised in different regions of Turkey, then
their physical properties were analyzed and results were compared with cashmere
fibers. Along with mean fiber diameter and its variation, single fiber length
and its variation, which are the most important parameters regarding
spinnability of a textile fiber, this work reports for the first time fiber
scale characteristics of Anatolian native goat down-hair fibers. In this
respect, scale pattern, mean scale frequency, cuticle scale height, curvature,
crimp frequency were analyzed as well as fiber tenacity and breaking elongation
properties. The economical potential of these down-hair fibers in Turkey were
also investigated. The results show that these native goat down-hair fibers,
that have been wasted mostly, have very similar properties to cashmere fibers with
adequate properties for spinnability, hence they have potential for
high-quality textile products as a substitute for cashmere fiber. 





References

  • 1. Lawrence, A.C., 2003, Fundamentals of Spun Yarn Technology, CRC Press, Washington, United States of America, pp: 46-47.
  • 2. Phan K. H., 1991, Electron Microscopy and The Characterization of Keratin Fibres, Commett Eurotex, Portugal, pp:47-70.
  • 3. Dellal G., 2001, “Antalya İlinde Yetiştirilen Kıl Keçilerinden Elde Edilen Alt Liflerin Tekstil Sanayii Açısından Uygunluklarının Belirlenmesi”, Tarım Bilimleri Dergisi, Vol:7 (2), pp: 131-134.
  • 4. Watkins, P. and Buxton, A., 1992, Luxury Fibers: Rare Materials for High Added Value, The Economist Intelligence Unit Special Reports, No.2633, United Kingdom, pp: 6-44.
  • 5. Phan K. H., Wortmann F. J., 1996, “Identification and Classification of Cashmere”, Europe Fine Fibre Network, Vol:4, pp: 45.
  • 6. Dalton J., 2001, Cashmere, in Silk, Mohair, Cashmere and Other Luxury Fibres (Ed.: Franck R.R), Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, United Kingdom, pp: 133-170.
  • 7. Russel A., 1998, The Establishment of Cashmere Production in The European Union, (A Feasibility Study Undertaken for the European Network for Livestok Systems in Integrated Rural Devolepment), Macaulay Land Use Research Institute, Craigiebuckler, United Kingdom, pp: 2-3.
  • 8. Dellal İ., Keskin G., Dellal G., 2002, “GAP Bölgesinde Küçükbaş Hayvan Yetiştiren İşletmelerin Ekonomik Analizi ve Hayvansal Ürünlerin Pazara Arzı”, TÜBİTAK Türkiye Tarımsal Araştırma Proje Raporu 2002-2, Ankara, Turkey, pp: 68-69.
  • 9. Bolat Ü., 2006, Cashmere Production Potential and Physical Characteristics of Hair Goats Raised in Adana Region and Its Application Areas in Textile Sector, MSc. Thesis, University of Çukurova, Institute of Natural and Applied Sciences, Department of Animal Science, Adana, Turkey.
  • 10. Kuloğlu B. H., 2010, Some Physical Properties of Coarse and Down Fibers Obtained From Hair Goat Kids, MSc Thesis, University of Ankara, Graduate School of Natural and Applied Sciences, Department of Home Economics, Ankara, Turkey.
  • 11. Karakuş F., Bingöl M., Kor A., Tuncer S., Yılmaz A., Cengiz F., 2010, “Norduz ve Kıl Keçilerinden Elde Edile Üst ve Alt Kıllarda Bazı Fiziksel Özellikleri Arasındaki Fenotipik Korelasyonlar”, Ulusal Keçicilik Kongresi Bildiriler Kitabı, Çanakkale Onsekiz Mart Üniversitesi Matbaası, Çanakkale, Turkey, pp: 438-442.
  • 12. Türkiye İstatistik Kurumu, 2016, Hayvancılık İstatistikleri, https://biruni.tuik.gov.tr/hayvancilikapp/hayvancilik.zul, (Date of access: 15.06.2017).
  • 13. Erduran, H., 2010, Kıl Keçisi, in Native Animal Genetic Resources of Türkiye (Ed.: Soysal M. İ.), Tekirdağ, Turkey, pp: 167.
  • 14. Varley R. A., 2006, “A Modified Method of Cuticle Scale Height Determination for Animal Fibers”, AATTC Review, pp: 38-41.
  • 15. McGregor B. A., 2012, Properties, Processing and Performance of Rare and Natural Animal Fibres, Rural Industries Research and Development Corporation Publication, Barton, Australia, pp: 6-8.
  • 16. Weijer F., 2011, Cashmere Value Chain Analysis Afghanistan, http://www.ahdp.net/reports/Cashmere%20Value%20Chain%20Analysis.pdf, (Date of Access: 03.01 2015).
  • 17. Braun A. L., 2000, “Adding Further Value to South African Indigenous Goats Through The Production of Cashmere” https://researchspace.csir.co.za/dspace/bitstream/ handle/10204/1198/Braun_2000.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y, (Date of Access: 17.04.2014)
  • 18. IWTO-47-2013: Measurement of The Mean and Distribution of Fibre Diameter of Wool Using an Optical Fibre Diameter Analyser.
  • 19. TS-1140-2005: Yün ve Benzeri Liflerde Lif Uzunluklarının Tayini-Tek Lif Uzunluk Ölçme Metodu.
  • 20. ASTM-D-3822-2014: Standard Test Method for Tensile Properties of Single Textile Fibers.
  • 21. Hunter, I. M., Kruger, P.J., 1967, “A Comparison of The Tensile Properties of Kemp, Mohair and Wool Fibers”, Textile Research Journal, Vol: 37 (3), pp: 220-224.
  • 22. Davaslıgil Ş., 1966, Yün İplik Teknoloji ve Makinaları, Teknik Üniversite Matbaası, İstanbul, Turkey, pp: 388.
  • 23. AWTA Ltd. Information Sheets, 2013, “What’s All The Fuss About Fibre Curvature?”, https://www.awtawooltesting.com.au/index.php/en/resources/fact-sheets/fact-sheet-fibre-curvature/viewdocument, (Date of Access: 06.05.2018).
  • 24. Cook G. J., 2001, Handbook of Textile Fibres, Vol.1: Natural Fibres, Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, United Kingdom, pp: 79-141.
  • 25. IWTO–58-2000: Scanning Electron Microscopic Analysis of Speciality Fibres and Sheep’s Wool and Their Blends.
  • 26. Shamey R. and Sawatwarakul W., 2014, “Innovative Critical Solutions in The Dyeing of Protein Textile Materials”, Textile Progress, Vol: 46 (4), pp: 323-450.
  • 27. Tester, D., McGregor, B A and Staynes, L., 2015, “Ultrafine Wools: Comfort and Handle Properties for Next-to-Skin Knitwear and Manufacturing Performance”, Textile Research Journal, Vol: 85 (11), pp: 1181–1189.
  • 28. Tester, D.H., 1987, “Fine Structure of Cashmere and Superfine Merino Wool”, Textile Research Journal, Vol: 57 (4), pp: 213-219.
  • 29. McGregor B. A., 2018, Physical, Chemical, and Tensile Properties of Cashmere, Mohair, Alpaca, and Other Rare Animal Fibers, in Handbook of Properties of Textile and Technical Fibres, (Ed.: Bunsell A.R.), Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, United Kingdom, Second Edition, pp: 105-136.
  • 30. Rocco F. and Maurizio G., 2010, “Yarn Strength Prediction: A Practical Model Based On Artificial Neural Network”, Advances in Mechanical Engineering, 2010, pp: 5.
  • 31. Morton W. E., and Hearl J.W.S., 2008, Physical Properties of Textile Fibers, Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, United Kingdom, pp: 290.
  • 32. Dellal G., Erdoğan Z., Koyuncu M., Söylemezoğlu F., Pehlivan E., Tuncer S., 2010, Ulusal Keçicilik Kongresi Bildiriler Kitabı (Ed.: Ataşoğlu C.), Çanakkale Onsekiz Mart Üniversitesi Matbaası, Çanakkale, Turkey, pp: 434.
There are 32 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language English
Subjects Wearable Materials
Journal Section Articles
Authors

Fatma Göktepe

Gülçin Canipek

M. İhsan Soysal This is me

Publication Date March 26, 2019
Submission Date May 23, 2018
Acceptance Date March 7, 2019
Published in Issue Year 2019 Volume: 29 Issue: 1

Cite

APA Göktepe, F., Canipek, G., & Soysal, M. İ. (2019). THE COMPARISON OF PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF ANATOLIAN NATIVE GOAT DOWN FIBERS WITH CASHMERE. Textile and Apparel, 29(1), 11-21. https://doi.org/10.32710/tekstilvekonfeksiyon.425888

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