Effects of Different Stitch Types and Stitch Combinations on the Seam Bursting Strength and Seam Strength of Workwear

Year 2022, Volume: 32 Issue: 2, 146 - 154, 30.06.2022

Şükran Kara

https://doi.org/10.32710/tekstilvekonfeksiyon.1011851

Cited By: 2

Abstract

Workwears are produced to protect the wearer against occupational or environmental hazards. One of the shared properties of several workwear types is resisting external forces during occupation. As for workwear fabrics, the seams of the workwear should be strong enough to resist uniaxial or multiaxial forces to maintain the properties in the cut and sewn parts of the garment. Therefore, in this study, effects of different stitch types and their combinations on the workwear seam and bursting strengths were evaluated. According to results, a 2-step failure was observed at the seam strength tests of samples those contained stitch combinations. Here, the main function of the second stitch row was to form a safety stitch rather than increasing the overall performance. Contrarily, usage of stitch combinations obviously contributed to the seam bursting strengths. In this case, the stitch rows responded to the bursting forces together therefore the bursting failures occurred in 1-step.

Keywords

Seam bursting, seam strength, workwear, stitch types, stitch combinations

Thanks

A preliminary version of this study was presented in “International Conferences on Science and Technology- Engineering Science and Technology (ICONST-EST)” on September, 2021, with the caption of “Effects of different stitch combinations on the seam bursting characteristics of PET/Co workwear”. This current study is improved by adding uniaxial seam strength results and combined evaluations of the test results.

References

• 1. Kurumer G. 2012. Konfeksiyon uretimi ve teknolojisi (2nd Press). Izmir: Printer Ofset Matbaacılık.
• 2. Jones I, Stylios GK. 2013. Joining textiles: Principles and applications. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited.
• 3. Gurarda A. 2019. Seam performance of garments. In: F. Uddin (Ed.), Textile Manufacturing Processes. UK: Intechopen.
• 4. ASTM D6193 – 16. 2020. Standard practice for stitches and seams. West Conshohocken: ASTM International.
• 5. Paul R. (Ed.). 2019. High performance technical textiles. USA: John Wiley & Sons.
• 6. Midha VK, Kothari VK, Chattopadhyay R, Mukhopadhyay A. 2010. Effect of workwear fabric characteristics on the changes in tensile properties of sewing threads after sewing. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 5(1), 31-38.
• 7. Haifa IH. 2013. Seam properties of workwear. Pakistan Textile Journal 62(1), 42-46.
• 8. Unal BZ, Baykal PD. 2018. Determining the effects of different sewing threads and different washing types on fabric tensile and sewing strength properties. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon 28(1), 34-42.
• 9. Choudhary AK, Goel A. 2013. Effect of some fabric and sewing conditions on apparel seam characteristics. Journal of Textiles 2013, 1-7.
• 10. Vijay Kirubakar Raj D, Renuka Devi M. 2017. Performance analysis of the mechanical behaviour of seams with various sewing parameters for cotton canopy fabrics. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 25, 4(124), 129-134.
• 11. Frydrych I, Greszta A. 2016. Analysis of lockstitch seam strength and its efficiency. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 28(4), 480-491.
• 12. Sular V, Mesegul C, Kefsiz H, Seki Y. 2015. A comparative study on seam performance of cotton and polyester woven fabrics. The Journal of the Textile Institute 106(1), 19-30.
• 13. Farhana K, Syduzzaman M, Yeasmin D. 2015. Effect of sewing thread linear density on apparel seam strength: A research on lapped and superimposed seam. Journal of Advancements and Engineering and Technology 3(3), 1-7.
• 14. Namiranian R, Shaikhzadeh Najar S, Etrati SM, Manich AM. 2014. Seam slippage and seam strength behavior of elastic woven fabrics under static loading. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research 39(3), 221-229.
• 15. Bharani M., Shiyamaladevi PSS, Mahendra Gowda RV. 2012. Characterization of seam strength and seam slippage on cotton fabric with woven structures and finish. Research Journal of Engineering Sciences 1(2), 41-50.
• 16. Gurarda A. 2008. Investigation of the seam performance of PET/nylon-elastane woven fabrics. Textile Research Journal 78(1), 21-27.
• 17. Yeşilpınar S, Bahar S. 2007. The effect of sewing and washing processes on the seam strength of denim trousers. AATCC review 7(10), 27-31.
• 18. Tarafder N, Karmakar R, Mondal M. 2007. The effect of stitch density on seam performance of garments stitched from plain and twill fabrics. Man-Made Textiles in India 50(8), 298-302.
• 19. Gribaa S, Amar SB, Dogui A. 2006. Influence of sewing parameters upon the tensile behavior of textile assembly. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 18(4), 235-246.
• 20. Mukhopadhyay A, Sikka M, Karmakar AK. 2004. Impact of laundering on the seam tensile properties of suiting fabric. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 16(4), 394-403.
• 21. Chowdhary U, Poynor D. 2006. Impact of stitch density on seam strength, seam elongation, and seam efficiency. International Journal of Consumer Studies 30(6), 561-568.
• 22. Kara S. 2020. Comparison of sewn fabric bending rigidities obtained by heart loop method: Effects of different stitching types and seam directions. Industria Textila 71(2), 105-111.
• 23. Islam MR, Asif AAH, Razzaque A, Al Mamun A, Maniruzzaman M. 2020. Analysis of seam strength and efficiency for 100% cotton plain woven fabric. International Journal of Textile Science 9(1), 21-24.
• 24. Ates M, Gurarda A, Ceven EK. 2019. Investigation of seam performance of chain stitch and lockstitch used in denim trousers. Tekstil ve Muhendis 26(115), 263-270.
• 25. Akter M, Khan MR. 2015. The effect of stitch types and sewing thread types on seam strength for cotton apparel. International Journal of Scientific and Engineering Research 6(7), 198-205.
• 26. Yusof NA. 2013. Effect of seam type on selected seam tensile behaviour under multi-axial forces (Doctoral dissertation). University of Otago, New Zealand.
• 27. Kovalova N, Kulhavy P, Vosahlo J, Havelka A. 2019. Experimental and numerical study of sewing seams of automobile seat covers under unidirectional and multiaxial loading. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon 29(4), 322-335.
• 28. Rajput B, Kakde M, Gulhane S, Mohite S, Raichurkar PP. 2018. Effect of sewing parameters on seam strength and seam efficiency. Trends in Textile Engineering and Fashion Technology 4(1), 4-5.
• 29. Yesilpinar S. 1997. Kullanim sirasinda giysilerde oluşan dikis patlamalari üzerine bir arastirma. Tekstil ve Mühendis 11(56), 30-41.
• 30. Verdu P, Rego JM, Nieto J, Blanes M. 2009. Comfort analysis of woven cotton/polyester fabrics modified with a new elastic fiber, Part 1 Preliminary analysis of comfort and mechanical properties. Textile Research Journal 79(1), 14-23.
• 31. TS EN ISO 2062. 2009. Textiles - Yarns from packages - Determination of single-end breaking force and elongation at break using constant rate of extension (CRE) tester. Ankara: Turk Standartlar Enstitusu.
• 32. Kara S, Yesilpinar S. 2021. Comparative study on the properties of taped seams with different constructions. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 29, 2(146), 54-60.
• 33. TS EN ISO 13935-2. 2014. Textiles - Seam tensile properties of fabrics and made-up textile articles - Part 2: Determination of maximum force to seam rupture using the grab method. Ankara: Turk Standartlar Enstitusu.
• 34. ASTM D1683/D1683M – 17. 2018. Standard test method for failure in sewn seams of woven fabrics. West Conshohocken: ASTM International.
• 35. ASTM D6797 – 15. 2015. Standard test method for bursting strength of fabrics constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) ball burst test. West Conshohocken: ASTM International.
• 36. Nayak R, Padhye R. (Eds). 2015. Garment manufacturing technology. UK: Elsevier.