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Tekstil Tasarımında Raoul Dufy: Moda, Sanat ve Endüstri Birlikteliği

Year 2022, Volume: 4 Issue: 1, 41 - 60, 28.02.2022
https://doi.org/10.54976/tjfdm.990676

Abstract

Sanayi Devrimi’nin etkisi, tekstil endüstrisinde ve tekstil üretim yöntemlerinde büyük bir değişime yol açmıştır. Tekstil iplik eğirme, dokuma makinalarının keşfi ve baskı boya kimyasındaki gelişmeler tekstil üretimi açısından bir devrim yaratmıştır. İlk olarak İngiltere’de William Morris ve John Ruskin, makineleşmenin sonucunda seri üretimden kaynaklanan özensiz, kaba endüstri ürünlerine bireysel tepki ve eleştiri olarak Arts&Crafts sanat hareketini başlatmışlardır. Bu sanat akımıyla zanaat, sanat kavramları irdelenmiş, ardından Art Nouveu, Art Deco gibi birbiri ardına devam eden öncü sanat akımları gerçek bir dinamizm yaratmış ve tekstil tasarımına yön vermiştir. 1900’lü yılların başlarında, dönemin avangart sanatçıları, teknolojinin sağladığı yenilik ve olanakları kendi sanatsal birikimleriyle birleştirerek geleneksel düzene karşı modern, soyut, geometrik formlara yönelmişlerdir.
Bu dönem moda, sanat ve sanayi ilişkisi ve bu bağlamda oluşan iş birliktelikleri tekstil tasarımı açısından devrim niteliğinde önem taşımaktadır. Aynı zamanda, dönemin karakteristik özelliğini yansıtan tekstil tasarımları, gelenekselden modern tasarıma dönüştüğü önemli bir tarihsel sürece tanıklık etmektedir. Fovist ressam Raoul Dufy’nin çok yönlü tasarım ortamında ürettiği, Art Deco tekstil baskı tasarımlarla, tekstil endüstrisinde önemli bir yere sahip öncü sanatçılardan biridir. Dufy’nin tekstil tasarımları, sadece sanatın tekstile, modaya yön vermesi değil aynı zamanda tasarımcılar için önemli bir esin kaynağı olmuştur. Onun sanatsal ve estetik tavrı, avangart bakış açısıyla harmanladığı eserleri, tekstil baskı tasarımında, tasarım, üretim, uygulama süreçlerinde yaratıcılığave sanata çağdaş bir bakış açısı kazandırmıştır. Bu makale de Raoul Dufy’nin sanatçı kimliği, moda, sanat, endüstri birlikteliğinin yarattığı çok yönlü etkileşim, tekstil baskı tasarımına yaklaşımı ve katkıları irdelenerek genç akademisyen, sanatçı ve araştırmacılara kaynak oluşturması hedeflenmiştir.

References

  • Aav, M. (2012). Marimekko: Fabrics, Fashion, Architecture, İtaly: Yale University Press.
  • Antmen, A. (2014). 20 Yüzyl Batı Sanatında Akımlar, İstanbul: Sel Yayıncılık.
  • Apollinaire, G. (1911). Le Bestiaire ou Cortege d’Orphee, Paris: Deplanche. http://obvil.paris-sorbonne.fr/corpus/apollinaire/bestiaire[Erişim Tarihi: 12.01.2021]
  • Bow, B. A.(2014). Raoul Dufy:The Fauvist Painter Who Turned into a Textil Artist. Culture Trip. https //:theculturetrip.com /europe /france /articles /raoul dufy– the –fauvist painter– who- turned–into - a-textile -artist/ Chandler, A. (1988). 1925 Art Deco Exposition: History, Images, Interpretation. Retrieved May 30, 2021, from http://www.arthurchandler.com/1925-art-deco-exposition Coppel. S. (1999).”The Fauve Woodcut Print “ Vol. 16, No. 1,Quarterly Publications. https://www.jstor.org/stable/41825233 UTC [Erişim Tarihi: 12.01.2021]
  • D’Amato. M. (2017). “Prınted Sılk Crepe And Brocaded Lamé Evenıng Coat Textıle By Raoul Dufy For Bıanchını-Férıer French, ca. 1925–26,” Hong Kong: Printer & Designer, Cora Ginsburg https://coraginsburg.com/catalogues/2017/catalogue%202017.pdf [ErişimTarihi:22.11.2020]
  • Dempsey, A. ( 2019). Modern Sanat, İstanbul: Teas Yayıncılık Aş.
  • Donna G. (2019). “La Moısson Block-Prınted Cotton By Raoul Dufy For Bıanchını-Férıer French (Lyon), Ca. 1919”, Hong Kong:Printer & Designer.Cora Ginsburg Llc,Pressroom
  • Eden, E. O. (2016). Modern Sanatın Kısa Tarihi, İstanbul: Hayalperest Yayınevi.
  • Fogg, M. ( 2014). Modanın Tüm Öyküsü, Çin: Hayalperest Yayınevi.
  • Ghelerter D.& Majer M.(2001).“Neptune Block Prınted Cotton By Raoul Dufy”Hong Kong: Printer & Designer, Cora Ginsburg. https://coraginsburg.com/catalogues/2001/catalogue%202001.pdf [Erişim Tarihi: 02.02.2021]
  • Ginsburg, M.(1993). The Illustrated History of Textiles, London; Studio Edition.
  • Hardy, A.R. (2006). Art Deco Textiles: The French Designers, London: Thames & Hudson.
  • İpşiroğlu, N., İpşiroğlu, M. ( 2017). Sanatta Devrim, İstanbul: Hayalperest Yayınevi.
  • Jackson L. (2002). Twentieth Century Pattern Design, China: Princeton Architectural Press.
  • Kay S.& Mathews T. (2020). The Modernist Bestiary, London: Saint Philip Street Press.
  • Kerr, G. (2014). Art Deco Masterpieces Of Art, London, Flame Tree Publishing.
  • Koda, H.& Bolton, A.(2007). Poiret; New York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Yale University Press
  • Mackrell A. (2008). Art and Fashion:The Impact of Art on Fashion and Fashion on Art, London: Batsford Ltd. Martin, R&Koda H.(1995). Orientalism Vision of the East in Western Dress, New York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
  • Skriabine. J. ( 2010). “Raoul Dufy (1877–1953), le peintre sténographe : création artistique et vie intérieure” France:Annales Médico-psychologiques, revue psychiatrique. https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00650578 [Erişim Tarihi: 12.04.2021]
  • Victoria and Albert Museum. (2002, August 14). Les Conques | Raoul Dufy | V&A Explore The Collections. Retrieved January 2, 2021, http ://collections.vam.ac.uk /item/ O66956/ les-conques-furnishing-fabric-dufy-raoul/les-conques-furnishing-fabric-raoul-dufy/ Zachary, C. (2015, June 3). Born on This Day in Fashion History: Raoul Dufy, June 3, 1877. Retrieved January 2, 2021, https://theartofdress.org/2015/06/03/born-on-this-day-in-fashion-history-raoul-dufy-june-3-1877/

RAOUL DUFY AND TEXTİLE DESIGN: THE AMALGAMATION OF FASHION, ART AND ENDUSTRY

Year 2022, Volume: 4 Issue: 1, 41 - 60, 28.02.2022
https://doi.org/10.54976/tjfdm.990676

Abstract

The impact of the Industrial Revolution has led to an inevitable change in the textile industry and textile production methods. The discovery of textile yarn spinning and weaving machines as well as developments in print dye chemistry have revolutionized textile production. The Arts& Crafts movement can essentially be observed as a reaction and criticism to the careless and rough industrial mass textile production that was initially pioneered by William Morris and John Ruskin in England. With this art movement, the concepts of intricate craft and art are specific points of emphasis. The Arts& Crafts movement, essentially gave rise to groundbreaking art movements such as Art Nouveau and Art Deco, which continued one after another, creating an atmosphere of genuine dynamism and ultimately giving direction to textile design. In the early 1900s, avant-garde artists of the period turned towards modern, abstract and geometric forms against the traditional order by combining the innovations and possibilities provided by technology with their own artistic accumulation.
In this period, the relationship between fashion, art and industry and the collaborations formed in this context are of revolutionary importance in terms of textile design. At the same time, textile designs, which reflect the characteristic features of the period, bear witness to a significant historical process that transformed the design norm from traditional to modern design. Fauvist painter Raoul Dufy is one of the leading artists in the textile industry with Art Deco textile print designs, produced in a versatile interactive design setting. Dufy's textile designs were not only providing direction to art with textiles and fashion, but also stood as an important source of inspiration for fellow designers. His artistic and aesthetic attitude, his works blended with an avant-garde perspective, his designs in textile print design and his creativity in production application processes have undeniably brought a contemporary perspective to art. In this article, it is aimed to provide resources for young academicians, artists and researchers by examining Raoul Dufy's artistic identity, the multi-faceted interaction created by the combination of fashion, art and industry, and his approach and contributions to textile print design.

References

  • Aav, M. (2012). Marimekko: Fabrics, Fashion, Architecture, İtaly: Yale University Press.
  • Antmen, A. (2014). 20 Yüzyl Batı Sanatında Akımlar, İstanbul: Sel Yayıncılık.
  • Apollinaire, G. (1911). Le Bestiaire ou Cortege d’Orphee, Paris: Deplanche. http://obvil.paris-sorbonne.fr/corpus/apollinaire/bestiaire[Erişim Tarihi: 12.01.2021]
  • Bow, B. A.(2014). Raoul Dufy:The Fauvist Painter Who Turned into a Textil Artist. Culture Trip. https //:theculturetrip.com /europe /france /articles /raoul dufy– the –fauvist painter– who- turned–into - a-textile -artist/ Chandler, A. (1988). 1925 Art Deco Exposition: History, Images, Interpretation. Retrieved May 30, 2021, from http://www.arthurchandler.com/1925-art-deco-exposition Coppel. S. (1999).”The Fauve Woodcut Print “ Vol. 16, No. 1,Quarterly Publications. https://www.jstor.org/stable/41825233 UTC [Erişim Tarihi: 12.01.2021]
  • D’Amato. M. (2017). “Prınted Sılk Crepe And Brocaded Lamé Evenıng Coat Textıle By Raoul Dufy For Bıanchını-Férıer French, ca. 1925–26,” Hong Kong: Printer & Designer, Cora Ginsburg https://coraginsburg.com/catalogues/2017/catalogue%202017.pdf [ErişimTarihi:22.11.2020]
  • Dempsey, A. ( 2019). Modern Sanat, İstanbul: Teas Yayıncılık Aş.
  • Donna G. (2019). “La Moısson Block-Prınted Cotton By Raoul Dufy For Bıanchını-Férıer French (Lyon), Ca. 1919”, Hong Kong:Printer & Designer.Cora Ginsburg Llc,Pressroom
  • Eden, E. O. (2016). Modern Sanatın Kısa Tarihi, İstanbul: Hayalperest Yayınevi.
  • Fogg, M. ( 2014). Modanın Tüm Öyküsü, Çin: Hayalperest Yayınevi.
  • Ghelerter D.& Majer M.(2001).“Neptune Block Prınted Cotton By Raoul Dufy”Hong Kong: Printer & Designer, Cora Ginsburg. https://coraginsburg.com/catalogues/2001/catalogue%202001.pdf [Erişim Tarihi: 02.02.2021]
  • Ginsburg, M.(1993). The Illustrated History of Textiles, London; Studio Edition.
  • Hardy, A.R. (2006). Art Deco Textiles: The French Designers, London: Thames & Hudson.
  • İpşiroğlu, N., İpşiroğlu, M. ( 2017). Sanatta Devrim, İstanbul: Hayalperest Yayınevi.
  • Jackson L. (2002). Twentieth Century Pattern Design, China: Princeton Architectural Press.
  • Kay S.& Mathews T. (2020). The Modernist Bestiary, London: Saint Philip Street Press.
  • Kerr, G. (2014). Art Deco Masterpieces Of Art, London, Flame Tree Publishing.
  • Koda, H.& Bolton, A.(2007). Poiret; New York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Yale University Press
  • Mackrell A. (2008). Art and Fashion:The Impact of Art on Fashion and Fashion on Art, London: Batsford Ltd. Martin, R&Koda H.(1995). Orientalism Vision of the East in Western Dress, New York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
  • Skriabine. J. ( 2010). “Raoul Dufy (1877–1953), le peintre sténographe : création artistique et vie intérieure” France:Annales Médico-psychologiques, revue psychiatrique. https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00650578 [Erişim Tarihi: 12.04.2021]
  • Victoria and Albert Museum. (2002, August 14). Les Conques | Raoul Dufy | V&A Explore The Collections. Retrieved January 2, 2021, http ://collections.vam.ac.uk /item/ O66956/ les-conques-furnishing-fabric-dufy-raoul/les-conques-furnishing-fabric-raoul-dufy/ Zachary, C. (2015, June 3). Born on This Day in Fashion History: Raoul Dufy, June 3, 1877. Retrieved January 2, 2021, https://theartofdress.org/2015/06/03/born-on-this-day-in-fashion-history-raoul-dufy-june-3-1877/

Details

Primary Language Turkish
Journal Section Review Articles
Authors

Gülcan BATUR
Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Güzel Sanatlar Fakültesi
0000-0002-4517-4325
Türkiye

Publication Date February 28, 2022
Published in Issue Year 2022 Volume: 4 Issue: 1

Cite

APA Batur, G. (2022). Tekstil Tasarımında Raoul Dufy: Moda, Sanat ve Endüstri Birlikteliği . Turkish Journal of Fashion Design and Management , 4 (1) , 41-60 . DOI: 10.54976/tjfdm.990676

Cited By

Turkish Journal of Fashion Design and Management (TJFDM) Dergisi, Ege Üniversitesi Moda ve Tasarım Yüksekokulu tarafından yayınlanmaktadır.