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Ulus Markalama ve Ulusal İtibar Yönetimi Bağlamında Yeşil Aklama Uygulamaları : Bir İsveç Markası Hennes&Mauritz (H&M)

Year 2024, Issue: 18, 1 - 21, 30.06.2024

Abstract

Bir ülkenin sahip olduğu imaj ve itibar, o ülkenin sahip olduğu markalara da yansımaktadır. Yine aynı şekilde bir markaya ait imaj ve itibar da o ülkeye yansımaktadır. Bu çalışma ulus markalama ve ulusal itibar teorik çerçevelerinden yola çıkarak, her iki alanı da doğrudan etkileyen yeşil aklama kavramına odaklanmaktadır. Günümüzde sürdürülebilirlik ve çevre konularına gösterilen hassasiyet, marka politikalarına da yansımaktadır. ‘En çevreci marka’ olma hırsı, çoğu zaman söz konusu markaları yanlışlara itmekte ve yeşil aklama stratejilerine dönüşmektedir. Çevre gibi yumuşak gücü ilgilendiren alanlarda ‘lider’ olma arzusu güden İsveç firması H&M için de bu durum farksızdır. Çalışma, teorik çerçevenin ardından niteliksel vaka analizi yöntemiyle H&M’in yeşil aklama stratejileri ve nedenlerine odaklanmaktadır.

References

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  • Aytuna, Nazlı and Banu Karsak, “Kurum İmajı ve İkna Stratejileri: Etkili İletişim Sorgulamaları”, Yönetim İletişim Kültür, in Poussard, J.M. & Erkmen, T. (Eds.) İstanbul, Arıkan Yayınları, (2008).
  • Baxter, P. and S. Jack, “Qualitative Case Study Methodology: Study Design and Implementation for Novice Researchers”, The Qualitative Report, Vol: 13 (4), (2008): 544-559.
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  • “Brand Directory”, https://brandirectory.com/rankings/sweden 25.05.2024
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  • Delmas, M. A. and C.V. Burbano, “The Drivers of Greenwashing”, California Management Review 54 (1), (2011): 64-87.
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  • “L’Usine Nouvelle”, https://www.usinenouvelle.com/article/h-m-accuse-de-greenwashing-avec-sa-collection-conscious.N872620 17.12.2023
  • Mulch, B., “The Seventh Sin”, Alternative Journal, 35, 5, (2009).
  • “Naturvardsverket”, https://www.naturvardsverket.se/en/topics/climate-transition/sveriges-klimatarbete/swedens-climate-act-and-climate-policy-framework/#:~:text=Sweden's%20long%2Dterm%20target%20is,the%20market%20and%20other%20actors 06.12.2023.
  • Nas, A., Ulus Markalama: Dünyadan Örneklerle Kuram ve Uygulama. 2. Baskı (Kriter Yayınevi, 2021) İstanbul.
  • Netto, S.V.F., Sobral, M.F.F., Ribeiro, A..R.B., Soares, G.R.L., “Concepts and Forms of Greenwashing: A Systematic Review”, Environmental Sciences Europe 32 (1), (2020): 1-12.
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  • Özüdoğru, Ş., Yüksel, H., “Ulus Markalama ve Beslendiği Kaynaklar: Bir Derleme”, Bitlis Eren Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, Vol: 8 Issue 1. (2019): 329-349.
  • “Retail Boss”, https://retailboss.co/hm-wins-lawsuit-over-greenwashing-allegations/ 25.05.2024
  • Rojas-Mendez, J., Khoshnevis, M. “Conceptualizing Nation Branding: The Systematic Literature Review” Journal of Product and Brand Management. 32(1), (2021): 107-123.
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  • Street, P. and K.Horton, K., Transparency in the Fashion Industry: A case study on H&M, New York, Sage publications, (2023).
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  • Wang. J., Public Diplomacy and Global Business, Journal of Business Strategy. Vol: 27 (3), Emerald Publishing, (2006): 41-49.
  • Yang, Z., Nguyen T.T.H., Nguyen, T.T.N., Nguyen, T.T.C., “Greenwashing Behaviours: Causes, Taxonomy and Consequences Based on a Systematic Literature Review”, Journal of Business Economics and Management 21(5), (2020): 1486-1507.
  • Zeybek, B., “Ülke Marka Kişilikleri Üzerine Bir Analiz: Turkey Home Kampanyası”, Erciyes İletişim Dergisi, Vol: 6 Sayı: 2, (2019): 1325-1340.

Greenwashing within the Context of Nation Branding and National Reputation Management: Hennes&Mauritz (H&M) – A Swedish Case

Year 2024, Issue: 18, 1 - 21, 30.06.2024

Abstract

The image and reputation of a country reflect on its brands. Just as well, the image and reputation of a brand reflect on its country of origin. The present study, on the basis of the theoretical frameworks of nation branding and national reputation, focuses on greenwashing, which affects both of the said areas. In our day, the sensibility concerning sustainability and environmental matters influences also brand policies. The ambition of being ‘The most environment friendly brand’, often leads brands to mistakes which end up transforming into greenwashing. This is also the case for the Swedish brand H&M which aims to be the ‘leader’ in soft power areas like the environment. The study, after the theoretical framework, focuses on H&M’s greenwashing strategies and their causes, using the qualitative situational analysis method.

References

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  • Aytuna, Nazlı and Banu Karsak, “Kurum İmajı ve İkna Stratejileri: Etkili İletişim Sorgulamaları”, Yönetim İletişim Kültür, in Poussard, J.M. & Erkmen, T. (Eds.) İstanbul, Arıkan Yayınları, (2008).
  • Baxter, P. and S. Jack, “Qualitative Case Study Methodology: Study Design and Implementation for Novice Researchers”, The Qualitative Report, Vol: 13 (4), (2008): 544-559.
  • Bernini, F. and F. La Rosa, F., “Research in the Greenwashing Field: Concepts, Theories, and Potential Impacts on Economic and Social Value”, Journal of Management and Governance, (2023): 1-40.
  • Bojonca, Diana, Corporate Sustainability in the Fast Fashion Industry: The Case of H&M, Universitat Jaume 1, final project, (2019).
  • “Brand Directory”, https://brandirectory.com/rankings/sweden 25.05.2024
  • Das, L. “Greenwash: What It Is and How Not to Fall for It”, Greenpeace, (2022).
  • Delmas, M. A. and C.V. Burbano, “The Drivers of Greenwashing”, California Management Review 54 (1), (2011): 64-87.
  • Dunne, Linnea, Lagom: İsveçlilerin Dengeli Yaşama Sanatı. (S. Tezcan Trans.), Pegasus Yayınları, (2020).
  • “Apolitical”, https://apolitical.co/solution-articles/fr/les-entreprises-danoises-veulent-sauver-la-planete-main-dans-la-main-avec-le-gouvernement
  • “Fashion United”, https://fashionunited.com/news/business/h-m-s-response-to-allegations-of-dumping-textile-waste-in-global-south-highlights-industry-s-problems/2023062854563 17.12.2023. https://fashionunited.com/i/most-valuable-fashion-brands 25.05.2024.
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  • “Forrester”, https://www.forrester.com/press-newsroom/forrester-global-green-market-revolution-spend-will-total-326-trillion-from-2023-to-2050/ 18.01.2024
  • Fraser, E. and H. van der Ven, “Increasing Transparency in Global Supply Chains: The Case of the Fast Fashion Industry”, Sustainability, 14, (2022): 1-24.
  • Ghitti, M., G. Gianfrate and L.Palma, “The agency of greenwashing”, Journal of Management and Governance, (2023): 1-37.
  • “Greenpeace”, https://www.greenpeace.org.uk/news/fashion-greenwash-report-companies-hiding-true-environmental-costs-fast-fashion/ 11.12.2023.
  • https://www.greenpeace.org.uk/news/what-is-greenwashing/ 18.01.2024.
  • Gudjonsson, H. “Nation Branding”, Place Branding. Vol: 1 (3) (2005): 283-298.
  • H&M Group,https://hmgroup.com/about-us/ 12.12.2023.
  • https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/sustainability-at-hm/our-work/close-the-loop.html 12.12.2023.
  • https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/sustainability-at-hm/our-work/innovate/the-groundbreakers.html 12.12.2023
  • https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/sustainability-at-hm/our-work/fair.html 13.12.2023.
  • https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/sustainability-at-hm/our-work/for-all.html 13.12.2023.
  • https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/sustainability-at-hm/our-work/clean-up.html 13.12.2023.
  • https://hmgroup.com/sustainability/circularity-and-climate/ 13.12.2023.
  • https://www2.hm.com/tr_tr/sustainability-at-hm/take-care/take-care.html 15.12.2023.
  • https://hmgroup.com/sustainability/leading-the-change/green-investment/ 13.12.2023.
  • https://hmgroup.com/sustainability/circularity-and-climate/circularity/ 13.12.2023.
  • Hoff, Jens, “The Green Heavyweights – The Climate Policies of the Nordic Countries”, in P.Nedergaard and A.Wivel (Ed.), The Routledge Handbook of Scandinavian Politics New York, Routledge, (2018): 49-67.
  • “Independent UK”, https://www.independent.co.uk/climate-change/news/hm-greenwashing-sustainable-circulose-venetia-falconer-manna-a9312566.html 17.12.2023.
  • “Independent Türkçe”, https://www.indyturk.com/node/441036/ekonomi%CC%87/ye%C5%9Fil-y%C4%B1kama-dev-markalar%C4%B1n-%C3%A7evrecili%C4%9Fi-moda-haline-getirme-giri%C5%9Fimleri 17.12.2023.
  • “Ipsos”, www.ipsos.com/sites/default/files/ct/news/documents/2022-11/NBI%202022%20Report%20-%20Updated%209JAN23.pdf 30.06.2023.
  • Kadıoğlu, C. and İ. Gürsoy, Yeşil Pazarlama Örnekleri ve Yeşil Pazarlama Stratejileri. Ş. Karabulut (Ed.), Pazarlama ve Organizasyon Perspektifinden Kuramlar ve Tartışmalar Ankara, Gazi, (2021): 109-130.
  • Kunczik, M., Images of Nations and International Public Relations, Lawrence Erlbaum, New Jersey, (1997).
  • “Le Monde”, https://www.lemonde.fr/en/environment/article/2022/10/22/sweden-s-climate-policy-is-in-turmoil_6001310_114.html 18.12.2023
  • Leonard, M., C. Stead and C. Smewing, Public Diplomacy. London, The Foreign Policy Center, (2002).
  • “L’OBS”, https://o.nouvelobs.com/mode/20180416.OBS5263/h-m-l-incarnation-du-greenwashing-dans-la-mode.html 18.12.2023.
  • “L’OECD”, https://www.oecd.org/fr/environnement/examens-pays/34087771.pdf 11.12.2023.
  • “L’OECD EPRs”, https://www.oecd.org/environment/country reviews/Sweden%20Highlights%20web%20pages2.pdf 11.12.2023
  • “L’Usine Nouvelle”, https://www.usinenouvelle.com/article/h-m-accuse-de-greenwashing-avec-sa-collection-conscious.N872620 17.12.2023
  • Mulch, B., “The Seventh Sin”, Alternative Journal, 35, 5, (2009).
  • “Naturvardsverket”, https://www.naturvardsverket.se/en/topics/climate-transition/sveriges-klimatarbete/swedens-climate-act-and-climate-policy-framework/#:~:text=Sweden's%20long%2Dterm%20target%20is,the%20market%20and%20other%20actors 06.12.2023.
  • Nas, A., Ulus Markalama: Dünyadan Örneklerle Kuram ve Uygulama. 2. Baskı (Kriter Yayınevi, 2021) İstanbul.
  • Netto, S.V.F., Sobral, M.F.F., Ribeiro, A..R.B., Soares, G.R.L., “Concepts and Forms of Greenwashing: A Systematic Review”, Environmental Sciences Europe 32 (1), (2020): 1-12.
  • Oxford English Dictionary, https://www.oed.com/search/dictionary/?scope=Entries&q=greenwashing 20.01.2024
  • Özüdoğru, Ş., Yüksel, H., “Ulus Markalama ve Beslendiği Kaynaklar: Bir Derleme”, Bitlis Eren Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, Vol: 8 Issue 1. (2019): 329-349.
  • “Retail Boss”, https://retailboss.co/hm-wins-lawsuit-over-greenwashing-allegations/ 25.05.2024
  • Rojas-Mendez, J., Khoshnevis, M. “Conceptualizing Nation Branding: The Systematic Literature Review” Journal of Product and Brand Management. 32(1), (2021): 107-123.
  • Saydam, A., “Emir Kusturica Değil Başkan Sorumlu…” Akşam Gazetesi, (2010).
  • “SDG Index”, https://dashboards.sdgindex.org/profiles/sweden Erişim 06.12.2023.
  • “SGI”, https://www.sgi-network.org/2022/Sweden/Environmental_Policies 11.12.2023.
  • Sönmez, V. and F.G. Alacapınar, F.G., Bilimsel Araştırma Yöntemleri, Anı Yayıncılık, Ankara, (2014).
  • Street, P. and K.Horton, K., Transparency in the Fashion Industry: A case study on H&M, New York, Sage publications, (2023).
  • “Sweden Sverige”, https://sweden.se/climate/sustainability/sweden-and-sustainability 06.12.2023
  • https://sweden.se/culture/arts-design/making-fashion-sustainable 11.12.2023
  • Szondi, G. “From Image Management to Relationship Building: A Public Relations Approach to Nation Building” Place Branding and Public Diplomacy. Vol: 6 (4) (2010): 333-343.
  • TerraChoice, The Sins of Greenwashing Home and Family Edition, Underwriters Laboratories, (2010).
  • “The Guardian”, https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2022/jun/28/fashion-brands-pause-use-of-sustainability-index-tool-over-greenwashing-claims 17.12.2023.
  • https://www.theguardian.com/world/2023/sep/20/swedish-government-criticised-curbing-green-policies-budget 18.12.2023.
  • “The Co-operative Bank”, https://www.co-operativebank.co.uk/about-us/press-release/2023/uk-ethical-consumer-spending-hits-141-billion-as-second-hand-clothing-market-booms/ 18.01.2023.
  • Wang. J., Public Diplomacy and Global Business, Journal of Business Strategy. Vol: 27 (3), Emerald Publishing, (2006): 41-49.
  • Yang, Z., Nguyen T.T.H., Nguyen, T.T.N., Nguyen, T.T.C., “Greenwashing Behaviours: Causes, Taxonomy and Consequences Based on a Systematic Literature Review”, Journal of Business Economics and Management 21(5), (2020): 1486-1507.
  • Zeybek, B., “Ülke Marka Kişilikleri Üzerine Bir Analiz: Turkey Home Kampanyası”, Erciyes İletişim Dergisi, Vol: 6 Sayı: 2, (2019): 1325-1340.
There are 63 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language English
Subjects European and Region Studies
Journal Section Research Article
Authors

Yeliz Kulalı Martin 0000-0003-1548-029X

Gaye Aslı Sancar Demren 0000-0002-5744-4900

Early Pub Date July 1, 2024
Publication Date June 30, 2024
Submission Date April 9, 2024
Acceptance Date May 30, 2024
Published in Issue Year 2024 Issue: 18

Cite

APA Kulalı Martin, Y., & Sancar Demren, G. A. (2024). Greenwashing within the Context of Nation Branding and National Reputation Management: Hennes&Mauritz (H&M) – A Swedish Case. Üsküdar Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi(18), 1-21.
AMA Kulalı Martin Y, Sancar Demren GA. Greenwashing within the Context of Nation Branding and National Reputation Management: Hennes&Mauritz (H&M) – A Swedish Case. JOSOC. June 2024;(18):1-21.
Chicago Kulalı Martin, Yeliz, and Gaye Aslı Sancar Demren. “Greenwashing Within the Context of Nation Branding and National Reputation Management: Hennes&Mauritz (H&M) – A Swedish Case”. Üsküdar Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, no. 18 (June 2024): 1-21.
EndNote Kulalı Martin Y, Sancar Demren GA (June 1, 2024) Greenwashing within the Context of Nation Branding and National Reputation Management: Hennes&Mauritz (H&M) – A Swedish Case. Üsküdar Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi 18 1–21.
IEEE Y. Kulalı Martin and G. A. Sancar Demren, “Greenwashing within the Context of Nation Branding and National Reputation Management: Hennes&Mauritz (H&M) – A Swedish Case”, JOSOC, no. 18, pp. 1–21, June 2024.
ISNAD Kulalı Martin, Yeliz - Sancar Demren, Gaye Aslı. “Greenwashing Within the Context of Nation Branding and National Reputation Management: Hennes&Mauritz (H&M) – A Swedish Case”. Üsküdar Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi 18 (June 2024), 1-21.
JAMA Kulalı Martin Y, Sancar Demren GA. Greenwashing within the Context of Nation Branding and National Reputation Management: Hennes&Mauritz (H&M) – A Swedish Case. JOSOC. 2024;:1–21.
MLA Kulalı Martin, Yeliz and Gaye Aslı Sancar Demren. “Greenwashing Within the Context of Nation Branding and National Reputation Management: Hennes&Mauritz (H&M) – A Swedish Case”. Üsküdar Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, no. 18, 2024, pp. 1-21.
Vancouver Kulalı Martin Y, Sancar Demren GA. Greenwashing within the Context of Nation Branding and National Reputation Management: Hennes&Mauritz (H&M) – A Swedish Case. JOSOC. 2024(18):1-21.

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