DOĞAL VE SENTETİK LİF ESASLI KOMPAKT İPLİKLERDEN ÜRETİLEN GÖMLEKLİK KUMAŞLARIN BAZI MEKANİK VE HAVA GEÇİRGENLİĞİ ÖZELLİKLERİNİN İNCELENMESİ

Year 2019, Volume: 24 Issue: 2, 445 - 460, 30.08.2019

Erhan Kenan Çeven Gizem Karakan Günaydın

https://doi.org/10.17482/uumfd.562414

Abstract

Gömleklik kumaşlar tekstil
tüketicileri açısından en çok talep edilen ürün gurupları arasındadır. Bu
ürünlerde hammadde olarak daha çok pamuk tercih edilse de, Poliester, elastan,
viskon gibi lifler ve bu liflerin pamuk ile karışımları da gömleklik kumaşlarda
kullanılabilmektedir. Gömleklik kumaşların konfeksiyon ürününde rahatlıkla
kullanılabilmeleri açısından dayanıklılıkları ve hava geçirgenliği özellikleri
göz önünde bulundurulmalıdır. Dokuma örgü konstrüksiyonu, çözgü ve atkı iplik
sıklığı, iplik numarası, lif tipi gibi kumaş konstrüksiyon parametreleri
gömleklik kumaşların mekanik ve hava geçirgenliği özelliklerini etkileyen temel
parametreler arasında yerini almaktadır. Bu
çalışma farklı kumaş tiplerinin, gömleklik kumaşlara ait çözgü ve atkı
yönündeki yırtılma mukavemeti, dikiş mukavemeti, kat düzelme açısı (°) ve hava
geçirgenliği özelliklerine etkisini değerlendirmek üzere yapılmıştır. Bunun
için farklı oranlarda pamuk, keten, Poliamit, viskon ve elastan lifleri içeren
kompakt iplikler kullanılarak bezayağı, armürlü ve saten gömleklik kumaşlar
üretilmiştir. Ön terbiye işlemi yapılmış kumaşlara yırtılma mukavemeti testi,
dikiş mukavemeti testi, kat düzelme açısı (°) testi ve son olarak hava
geçirgenliği ölçüm testleri uygulanmıştır. Kumaş tipinin gömleklik kumaşların
bazı mekanik özellikleri ve hava geçirgenliği üzerindeki etkisinin 0.05
anlamlılık düzeyinde etkisini görebilmek adına tek yönlü ANOVA testi
uygulanmıştır. Test sonuçları istatiksel olarak değerlendirilmiş olup, kumaş tipinin
genel olarak gömleklik kumaşlara ait yırtılma mukavemeti, dikiş mukavemeti, kat
düzelme açısı ve hava geçirgenliği özellikleri üzerinde 0.05 anlamlılık
düzeyinde etkili olduğu görülmüştür.

Keywords

gömleklik kumaşlar, yırtılma mukavemeti testi, dikiş mukavemeti testi, kat düzelme açısı, hava geçirgenliği

INVESTIGATION OF SOME MECHANICAL AND AIR PERMEABILITY PROPERTIES OF SHIRTING FABRICS PRODUCED FROM COMPACT YARNS MADE OF NATURAL AND SYNTHETIC FIBRES

Abstract

Shirting fabrics are one of the most demanded product
groups for textile consumers. Although cotton is the most preferred fibre as
the raw material of shirting fabrics, fibres such as Polyester, Elastane, viscose
and their blends with cotton may also be utilized in the shirting fabrics. For
the convenience usage of shirting fabrics in apparel products, those fabrics’
durability and air permeability properties should be considered in detail. Fabric
constructional parameters such as weave structure, warp and weft yarn density,
yarn count, fibre type are the main influential factors on shirting fabrics’
mechanical and air permeability properties. This study has been performed in
order to evaluate the effect of fabric construction on some mechanical
properties such as tear strength, seam strength, crease recovery angle (°) as
well as on air permeability of the shirting fabrics.  Throughout the
study, plain, dobby and
satin shirting woven fabrics were produced from the compact yarns with several
combinations of cotton, linen, polyamide, viscose and elastane fibre blends.
Pre-treated samples were objected to tear strength test, seam strength test,
crease recovery angle (°) test and finally to air permeability test. Randomized
One –Way ANOVA test was performed in order to investigate the significant
effect of fabric type on some mechanical and air permeability properties of
shirting fabrics at significance level of 0.05. Test results were statistically
evaluated and it was generally observed that there was a significant effect of
fabric type on tear strength, seam strength, crease recovery angle and on air
permeability features of the shirting fabrics at significant level of 0.05. 

Keywords

shirting fabrics, tearing strength test, seam strength, crease recovery, air permeability

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