ANTI-AGING COSMETICS APPROACHES AND COMPONENTS IN PRODUCTS
Yıl 2016,
Cilt: 5 Sayı: 2, 99 - 109, 31.08.2016
Evren Alğın Yapar
Sakine Tuncay Tanrıverdi
Öz
Skin aging is a complex biological process influenced by intrinsic or extrinsic factors or combination of these factors. Emerging technologies and ingredients based on new generation cosmetic products offers alternatives rather than basic cosmetic care. Developments including cosmetic active ingredients produced by using advanced technology, increase in the use of natural raw materials and using pharmaceutical carrier systems in cosmetic formulations have been generate to meet societies advanced cosmetic expectations. In this review, current cosmetic product-oriented solutions of individual external and internal factors were investigated with increased skin aging, especially in terms of components and systems can take place is specified. And also different ant-aging strategies are summarized.
Kaynakça
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YAŞLANMA KARŞITI KOZMETİK YAKLAŞIMLAR VE ÜRÜN BİLEŞENLERİ
Yıl 2016,
Cilt: 5 Sayı: 2, 99 - 109, 31.08.2016
Evren Alğın Yapar
Sakine Tuncay Tanrıverdi
Öz
Cilt yaşlanması; iç veya dış faktörlerin veya bunların birlikteliğinin neden olduğu karmaşık biyolojik bir süreçtir. Gelişen üretim teknolojileri, farmasötik taşıyıcı sistemlerin kozmetik formüllerinde kullanılması ve yenilikçi bileşenlere dayalı yeni nesil kozmetik ürünler, temel kozmetik bakımdan ileri alternatifler sunmaktadır. İleri teknoloji kullanılarak üretilen kozmetik aktif bileşenleri, doğal kaynaklı hammaddelerin kozmetik bileşenleri olarak kullanımının artması ve farmasötik taşıyıcı sistemlerin kozmetik formüllerinde kullanılması ile geliştirilen kozmetik ürünler toplumların artan kozmetik beklentilerini karşılamayı hedeflemektedir. Bu derlemede, günümüzde bireylerin dış ve iç faktörler ile artan cilt yaşlanmasının, kozmetik ürün odaklı çözümleri özellikle bileşenler açısından irdelenmiş, yaşlanma karşıtı farklı yaklaşımlar özetlenmiş ve kullanılan taşıyıcı sistemler belirtilmiştir.
Kaynakça
- 1. Draleos ZD. Cosmetics, categories, and the future. Dermatologic Therapy. 2012; 25: 223–228.
- 2. Schneider G, Gohla S, Schreiber J, Kaden W, Schönrock U, Schmidt-Lewerkühne H, Kuschel A, Petsitis X, Pape W, Ippen H, Diembeck W. Skin Cosmetics. In: Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. Weinheim: Wiley-VCH, 2005; p. 24-219.
- 3. Kışlalıoğlu S. Kozmetoloji Bilimi. In: Yazan Y, ed. Kozmetik Bilimi. İstanbul: Nobel Tıp Kitabevi; 2004; p. 3-9.
- 4. Kaymak Y, Tırnaksız F. Kozmetik ürünlere bağlı istenmeyen etkiler. Dermatose. 2007; 6(1):39-48.
- 5. Hekimoğlu S. Deri yaşlanmasına karşı 21. yüzyilin gerçeği: Kozmesötikler. Türkiye Klinikleri J Cosmetol. 1998; 1(1):37-42.
- 6. Tırnaksız F. Kozmetik ürünlerde kozmesötik olarak antioksidanların, peptit ve proteinlerin kullanımı ve önemi. Türkiye Klinikleri J Int Med Sci. 2006; 2(17):6-18.
- 7. Tarımcı N. Kozmetik ürün formülasyonlarında yeni alternatifler: Kozmesötik maddeler. Türkiye Klinikleri J Int Med Sci. 2006; 2(17):1-5.
- 8. Yazan Y. Cilt yaşlanması karşıtı dermakozmetik ürünlerde gelecek jenerasyon. Türkiye Klinikleri J Med Sci. 2008;28:182-185.
- 9. Özer Ö. Yüz bakımında kullanılan yaşlanma karşıtı kozmesötikler. Türkiye Klinikleri J Med Sci. 2009;29(5):40-43.
- 10. Chasteen AL, Bashir NY, Gallucci C, Visekruna A. Age and antiaging technique influence reactions to age concealment. J Gerontol B Psychol Sci Soc Sci. 2011; 66:719-724.
- 11. Grossman R. The role of dimethylaminoethanol in cosmetic dermatology. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(1):39-47.
- 12. Cevenini E, Invidia L, Lescai F, Salvioli S, Tieri P, Castellani G, et al. Human models of aging and longevity. Expert Opin Biol Ther 2008; 8:1393-405.
- 13. Contet-Audonneau JL, Jeanmaire C, Pauly G. A histological study of human wrinkle structures: comparison between sun-exposed areas of the face, with or without wrinkles, and sun-protected areas. Br J Dermatol 1999; 140:1038-47.
- 14. Shuster S, Black MM, McVitie E. The influence of age and sex on skin thickness, skin collagen and density. Br J Dermatol 1975; 93:639-43.
- 15. Bernstein EF, Underhill CB, Hahn PJ, Brown DB, Uitto J. Chronic sun exposure alters both the content and distribution of dermal glycosaminoglycans. Br J Dermatol 1996; 135:255-62.
- 16. Elsner P, Maibach HI. Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs versus Cosmetics (2nd edn). Marcel Dekker: New York, 2005.
- 17. Baumann L. Skin ageing and its treatment. J Pathol 2007; 211:241-51.
- 18. Trelles MA. Phototherapy in anti-aging and its photobiologic basics: a new approach to skin rejuvenation. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2006;5(1):87-91.
- 19. Merinville E. Original Contribution: Three clinical studies showing the anti-aging benefits of sodium salicylate in human skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2010;9:174–184.
- 20. Prahl S, Kueper T, Biernoth T, Wöhrmann Y, Münster A, Fürstenau M, Schmidt M, Schulze C, Wittern KP, Wenck H, Muhr GM, Blatt T. Aging skin is functionally anaerobic: importance of coenzyme Q10 for anti-aging skin care. Biofactors. 2008;32(1-4):245-255.
- 21. Lademann J, Meinke MC, Sterry W, Darvin ME. Carotenoids in human skin. Exp Dermatol. 2011;20(5):377–382.
- 22. Zussman J, Ahdout J, Kim J. Vitamins and photoaging: do scientific data support their use? J Am Acad Dermatol. 2010;63(3):507-525.
- 23. Yenilmez E, Yazan Y. Release of Vitamin E from different topical colloidal delivery systems and their ın vitro-ın vivo evaluation. Turk J Pharm Sci. 2010;7(2):167-188.
- 24. Kerscher M. Aesthetic and cosmetic dermatology. Eur J Dermatol. 2009;19(5):530-537.
- 25. Yenilmez E, Yazan Y. Release of Vitamin E from different topical colloidal delivery systems and their ın vitro-ın vivo evaluation. Turk J Pharm Sci. 2010;7(2):167-188.
- 26. Tabata N, O’Goshi K, Zhen YX, Kligman AM, Tagami H. Biophysical assessment of persistent effects of moisturizers after their daily applications: evaluation of corneotherapy. Dermatology 2000; 200:308-13.
- 27. Lübbe J. Evidence-based corneotherapy. Dermatology 2000; 200:285-9.
- 28. Ganceviciene R., Liakou A., Theodoridis A., Makrantonaki E. And Zouboulis C.C., Skin anti-aging strategies, Dermato-Endocrinology 2012; 4:3, 308-319.
- 29. Trautinger F. Mechanisms of photodamage of the skin and its functional consequences for skin ageing. Clin Exp Dermatol 2001; 26:573-7.
- 30. Berger MM. Can oxidative damage be treated nutritionally? Clin Nutr 2005; 24:172-83.
- 31. Marini A. Beauty from the inside. Does it really work?. Hautarzt 2011; 62:614-7.
- 32. Fusco D, Colloca G, Lo Monaco MR, Cesari M. Effects of antioxidant supplementation on the aging process. Clin Interv Aging 2007; 2:377-87.
- 33. Terada A, Yoshida M, Seko Y, Kobayashi T, Yoshida K, Nakada M, et al. Active oxygen species generation and cellular damage by additives of parenteral preparations: selenium and sulfhydryl compounds. Nutrition 1999; 15:651-5.
- 34. Vedamurthy M. Antiaging therapies. Indian Journal of Dermatology Venereology Leprology. 2006;72(3):183-186.
- 35. Kim H, Kim M, Quan Y, Moon T, Mun J, Cho H, Park N, Moon W, Lee K, Kim H, Lee J, Ryoo H, Jung H. Novel anti-wrinkle effect of cosmeceutical product with new retinyl retinoate microsphere using biodegradable polymer. Skin Res Technol. 2012;18(1):70–76.
- 36. Cernasov D. The design and development of anti-aging formulations. In: Dayan N, ed. Skin Aging Handbook. NY, USA: William Andrew Inc.; 2008. p. 291–325.
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