İşlem Adımları Azaltılarak Pigment Baskı Yöntemiyle Pamuklu Kumaşların Renklendirilmesi: Yenilikçi Bir Yaklaşım

Year 2025, Volume: 13 Issue: 2, 643 - 654, 30.04.2025

Emine Ayaz , Zeynep Ömeroğulları

https://doi.org/10.29130/dubited.1589566

Abstract

Bu çalışma, pamuklu dokuma kumaşların ön terbiye sürecinde genellikle uygulanan kasar ve ağartma işlemleri olmaksızın, pigment boyarmaddeler ile bir baskı tekniği kullanılarak renklendirilmesine odaklanmaktadır. Çalışmanın amacı, ön terbiye işlemlerindeki adımları azaltarak daha verimli bir süreç elde etmek, aynı zamanda su, kimyasal madde (ana ve yardımcı) ve enerji tüketimini azaltmaktır. Bu amaçla pamuklu dokuma kumaşlara yalnızca haşıl sökme işlemi uygulanmış, geleneksel kasar ve ağartma işlemleri atlanmıştır. Kumaşlar, üç farklı formülasyon kullanılarak rotasyon baskı tekniği ile doğrudan renklendirilmiştir. Aynı iplik ve konstrüksiyon ile dokunan ikinci bir kumaş grubu ise, geleneksel ön terbiye süreçlerinin tamamından (haşıl sökme, kasar ve ağartma) geçirilmiş ve aynı baskı tekniği ile renklendirilmiştir. Her iki grup kumaşın performans özellikleri karşılaştırılmıştır. Yıkama haslığı, asidik ve alkali ter haslığı, su haslığı ile kuru ve yaş sürtme haslıkları gibi özellikler ilgili standartlara göre değerlendirilmiştir. Ayrıca, yırtılma mukavemeti, aşınma direnci, boncuklanma (pilling) ve renk spektrumu testleri gerçekleştirilmiştir. Renk spektrumu analizi, en yüksek renk veriminin poliüretan esaslı çapraz bağlayıcı içeren baskı formülasyonu ile elde edildiğini göstermiştir. Sonuç olarak, ön işlem adımlarının sayısının azaltılması, kimyasal kullanımında ve yıkama sonrası döngü sayısında azalmaya yol açarak su ve enerji tüketimini düşürmüştür.

Keywords

Ön terbiye , pamuklu kumaş , pigment boyarmadde , baskı yöntemi , tekstil terbiyesi

Coloring Cotton Fabrics by Pigment Printing Method with Reduction of Process Steps: An Innovative Approach

Abstract

This study focuses on coloring cotton woven fabrics using pigment dyes with a printing technique, without applying the conventional scouring and bleaching processes typically involved in pre-treatment. The aim of the study was to streamline the pre-treatment process by reducing the number of steps, thereby achieving a more efficient process in less time while also reducing the consumption of water, chemicals (both main and auxiliary), and energy. For this purpose, only desizing was applied to the cotton woven fabrics, while the conventional processes of scouring and bleaching were omitted. The fabrics were then directly colored using the rotary screen printing technique with three different formulations. A second batch of cotton fabrics, woven with the same yarn and construction, underwent the full conventional pre-treatment processes (desizing, scouring, and bleaching) before being colored with the same printing technique. The performance characteristics of both sets of fabrics were compared. Fastness properties such as washing fastness, acidic and alkaline perspiration fastness, water fastness, and dry and wet rubbing fastness were evaluated according to relevant standards. Additionally, tests for tear strength, abrasion resistance, pilling, and color spectrum were conducted. The color spectrum analysis revealed that the highest color yield was achieved using the printing formulation containing a polyurethane-based crosslinking agent. As a result, reducing the number of pre-treatment steps led to a decrease in chemical usage and the number of post-washing cycles, thereby lowering water and energy consumption

Keywords

Pre-treatment , cotton fabric , pigment dye , printing method , textile finishing

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