AN INVESTIGATION ON THE CUTTING PARAMETERS FOR VARIOUS TYPES OF FABRICS

Yıl 2012, Cilt: 22 Sayı: 1, 52 - 57, 31.03.2012

Serkan Boz Ziynet Öndoğan

Öz

Same type fabric and same cutting plan can be cut in different methods by using computer aided fabric cutting systems. This is possible with changing the parameters inside the program which is operating the cutter. In this research; the effects of cutting parameters on the cutting quality and the cutting duration were analyzed. In this study, six different cutting having different models and fabric characteristics were examined. During the study; it was seen that same parameters can sometimes be used while cutting of different fabric types; but change in the parameters is required generally according to fabric, model, marker plan and spreading. Especially, while determining vacuum intensity that will be applied to the cutting of the different type fabrics, fabric air permeability were measured and the correlation between fabric air permeability, spreading height and the vacuum intensity that will be applied were presented. Fabric type, marker plan, spreading height and clothing model characteristics are determinative elements for determining cutting parameters. Cutting efficiency and quality can be increased and possible defects can be prevented with changing the cutting parameters by the operator.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Computer aided manufacturing (CAM), Computer aided cutting system, Cutter, Cutting parameters

Kaynakça

• 1. Hands C., Hergeth H.A., Hudson P., 1997, “Marker Making in Small Clothing Companies: Part 1”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 9, pp: 154-165.
• 2. Erdoğan M Ç., 1998, “Modern Kesim Sistemleri”, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 8(1), pp: 74-77.
• 3. Assyst-Bullmer, 2003, “Bullmer Procut Cutter User’s Manual”, Part: 5, pp: 1-30.
• 4. TSE, “TS 397 EN ISO 9237 Textiles - Determination of the permeability of fabrics to air”.
• 5. TSE, “TS 251 Textiles - Woven fabrics - Determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area”. 6. Blekac R., Gersak J., 1998, “Influence of Mechanichal and Physical Properties of Fabrics on Cutting Process”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 10(3/4), pp: 293-304.