Investigation of Stretch Properties of Different Stitch Types in Garments Made of Elastane Woven Fabrics

Yıl 2021, Cilt: 31 Sayı: 4, 284 - 294, 30.12.2021

Kıvanç Geleri Ayça Gürarda Erhan Kenan Çeven

https://doi.org/10.32710/tekstilvekonfeksiyon.909395

Öz

In recent years, garments made of fabrics with elastane are highly preferred. A garment made of fabric with elastane is able to stretch by about 10-30% and recovery immediately after release. In the apparel industry, sewing should not prevent the fabric from stretching in the garments made from woven fabrics with elastane. The elasticity of the seams of the garments consisting of elastic fabrics is very important.

In this study, it is aimed to examine the stretch and permanent elongation properties of different stitch types of garments made of elastane woven fabrics. For this purpose, 5 different stitch types were selected as lockstitch, zig zag stitch, two thread chain stitch, three thread overlock stitch and five thread overlock stitch, and these stitches were sewn at different stitch densities (3 - 4 and 5 stitches / cm), with different sewing threads (spun polyester, core spun (poly / poly), nylon and elastic sewing thread) with different ticket numbers (80 and 120). The stretch and permanent elongation values of the sewn fabric samples were examined.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Elastane, stretch, stitch type, sewing thread, stitch density

Destekleyen Kurum

TÜBİTAK 1002

Proje Numarası

119M028

Teşekkür

This study was supported by Tübitak 1002 Project with 119M028 number. We would like to express our sincere gratitude to TUBITAK for the support also we would like to thank Savcan Textile Factory / Bursa for fabric supply and Coats Factory / Bursa for sewing threads supply.

Kaynakça

• 1. Gürarda A. 2005. Konfeksiyon sanayiinde lycra’lı kumaşların dikiş problemlerinin incelenmesi, Uludağ Üniversitesi Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü, PhD Thesis, Bursa.
• 2. Gürarda A, Meriç B. 2005. The effects of silicone and pre-fixation temperature on the elastic properties of cotton/elastane woven fabrics. AATCC Review, 9, 53-56.
• 3. Gürarda A. 2008. Investigation of the seam performance of pet/nylon- elastane woven fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 78 (1), 21-27, 2008.
• 4. Gürarda A, Meriç B. 2010. Slippage and grinning behaviour of lockstitch seams in elastic fabrics under cyclic loading conditions. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon Dergisi, 20 (1), 65-69.
• 5. Rashid MdR, Ahmed F, Azad AK. 2012. An investigation about abrasion resistance and seam stretchability properties of weft knitted fabrics made from conventional ring and compact yarn, International Journal of Scientific and Research Publications, 2 (3), 2-6.
• 6. Akter M, Khan MR. 2015. The effect of stitch types and sewing thread types on seam strength for cotton apparel. International Journal of Scientific & Engineering Research, 6 (7), 198-205.
• 7. Zeto W, Dhingra RC, Lau KP, Tam H. 1996. Sewing performance of cotton/lycra knitted fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 66 (4), 282-286.
• 8. Carr H, Latham B. 1998. The technology of clothing manufacture, BSP Professional Books, Oxford, 13-35.
• 9. Mehta PV. 1992. AniIntroduction to quality control for the apparel industry. ASQC Quality Press, Wisconsin, 80-83.
• 10. Demir A, Günay M. 1999. Tekstil teknolojisi. Şan Ofset, İstanbul.
• 11. Wirth E. 2001. Dokuma makinasında elastan iplikle çalışma, Melliand Türkiye sayısı (3), 72-75.
• 12. Dikiş İplikleri. 2021. January 10. https://www.coats.com/tr/Products?type=Threads&type=Threads.
• 13. Bubania JE. 2014. Apparel quality, Fairchild Books, England, 129-131.
• 14. ASTM D 6193, Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams, American Society for Testing and Materials, USA, 1990.
• 15. TS 6071, Dokunmuş Kumaşların Giyim Sebebiyle Torbalanma ve Uzamaya Karşı Mukavemetlerinin Tayini Metodu. Türk Standartları Enstitüsü, Türkiye, 1988.
• 16. ASTM D 3107-07, Standard Test Method for Stretch Properties of Fabrics Woven from Stretch Yarns, American Society for Testing and Materials, USA, 2015.
• 17. ASTM D 1776, Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles, American Society for Testing and Materials, USA, 1990.
• 18. Flexi-Frame Test Cihazı (James Heal). 2021, January 15. https://www.coats.com/tr/Products?type=Threads&type=Threads.