FISH SAUCE WORKSHOPS IN THE KEKOVA REGION

Abstract

The fish products salted with fish sauces, which were amongst the fermented food products in antiquity, have the same place and remain important in the kitchens of many communities today, as in anti­quity. These products, which not only have nutritional but also economic value, were items of international trade in antiquity. This food product obtained by pro­cessing fish and the by products of fish by mixing them with salt water and fermenting them, have –to say the least- found a place in the medical field since the IVth century B.C., in addition to its place at meals. Infor­mation concerning fish sauce production from anti­q­uity to the present day can be obtained from ancient texts and from archaeological remains. On the other hand, modern fish sauce producing plants also pro­vide considerable information concerning this matter. In this study the historical processing and method of production of fish sauce in antiquity; the characteris­tics of the geographical distribution of the fish sauce ateliers discovered through modern re­search and ex­ca­vations, are examined; and the seven ancient fish sau­ce workshops in the Kekova Region are investi­gated in terms of their architecture, capa­city, location, historical background, and economic contribution to the region and to the settlers in the re­gion.

Keywords

• Fish Sauce • Allec • Garum • Liquamen • Kekova

KEKOVA BÖLGESİ’NDE BULUNAN BALIK SOSU İŞLİKLERİ

Abstract

Antikçağda fermente gıda ürünleri arasında yer alan balık sosları ile tuzlanmış balık ürünleri gü­nü­müzde de birçok toplumun mutfağında halen yerini ve değerini korumaktadır. Besleyici değerinin yanı sıra ekonomik değeri de olan bu ürünler antikçağda ulus­lararası ticarete de konu olmuştur. En basit ifadeyle balık ve balık yan ürünlerinin tuzlu su ile karıştırılarak bir fermente sürecinden geçirilmesi ile elde edilen bu gıda maddesi sofradaki yerinin dışında M.Ö. IV. yüzyıl­dan itibaren tıp alanında da kendine yer bulmuştur. Antikçağdan günümüze balık sosu üretimi ile ilgili bil­gilere, antik yazarlara ait yazınsal metinler ve arkeolojik kalıntılar yoluyla ulaşılabil­mektedir. Diğer yandan gü­nümüz modern balık sosu üreten tesislerin uygulama­ları da bu konu hakkında oldukça bilgi sağlamaktadır. Çalışmamızda ise antikçağ balık sosu üretiminin ta­rihsel süreci, imalat biçimi, modern araştırma ve ka­zılarla ortaya çıkarılan bazı balık sosu işliklerinin özel­likleri incelenerek, bu çalışmayı yapmamıza neden olan Kekova Bölgesi’ndeki 7 adet antikçağ balık sosu üretim işliğinin mimarisi, kapasitesi, konumu, bölge ekono­misine katkısı ile tarihlendirilmesi ele alınmak­tadır.

Keywords

• Balık Sosu • Allec • Garum • Liquamen • Kekova

References

1. Apic. de. re. coq. (= Apicius, De re coquinaraia) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Apicius, The Roman Cookery of Apicius. Trans.: J. Edwards. Century 1988.
2. Archest. hedy. (= Archestratus, Hedypatheia) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Archestratus, The Life of Luxury. Trans.: J. Wilkins - S. Hill. Totnes 1994.
3. Aristoph. Akh. (= Aristophanes, Akharnes) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Aristophanes, The Acharnians, The Clouds, The Knights, The Wasps. Trans.: B. B. Rogers. New York 1924 (The Loeb Classical Library).
4. Ath. Deip. (= Athenaeus, Deipnosophisticarum Epitome) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Athenaeus, The Deipnosophists. Trans.: C. B. Gulick. London 1957-1963.
5. Cassian. de re rust. (= Cassianus Bassus, Geoponicorum Sive De Re Rustica Libri) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Cassianus Bassus, Geoponicorum Sive De Re Rustica Libri XX, Volumes 3-4. Trans.: P. Needham. Charleston 2011.
6. Cato de. agr. (= Marcus Porcius Cato, De Agri Cultura) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Marcus Porcius Cato, On Agriculture. Trans.: W. D. Hooper. London 1934.
7. Colum. de. rust. (= Lucius Junius Moderatus Columella, De Re Rustica) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Columella, On Agriculture. Trans.: A. B. Ash et al. London 1941. Galen. de Aliment. (Galenos, De Alimentorum Facultatibus) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Galen, On the Properties of Foodstuffs. Trans. O. Powell. Cambridge 2003.
8. Isidor. Hisp. etym. (= Isidorus Hispalensis, Etymologiae) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Isidorus Hispalensis, The Etymologies of Isidore of Seville. Trans.: S. A. Barney et al. Cambridge 2006.

9. Petron. Sat. (= Petronius Arbiter, Satyricon) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Petronius, Satyricon. Trans.: W. Arrowsmith. An Arbor 1959.
10. Plaut. Capt. (= Titus Maccius Plautus, Captivi) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Titus Maccius Plautus, The Comedies Volume I. The Captivies (Captivi). Eds.: D. R. Slavitt - P. Bovie. Trans.: R. Moore. London 1995.
11. Plin. nat. (= Gaius Plinius Secundus, Naturalis Historia) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Plinius, The Historie of the World Commonly Called, The Natural Historie of C. Plinius Secundus. Trans.: P. Holland. London 1634.
12. Polyb. (= Polybios, The Historiai) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Polybios, The Histories. Trans.: W. R. Paton, vol. II. Cambridge, Massachusetts - London 1922 (The Loeb Classical Library).
13. Quin. Inst. (= Marcus Fabius Quintilianus, Institutio Oratoria) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Quintilianus, Institutio Oratoria. Trans.: E. Butler, vol. III. Domain 1920-1922 (Loeb Classical Library).
14. Manil. (= Marcus Manilius, Astronomica) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Manilius, Astronomica. Trans.: T. Breiter. Weicher 1908.
15. Mart. Ep. (= Martialis, Epigrammata) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Martialis, Epigrams. Trans.: C. A. Walter – M. A. Kerr, vol. II. London 1920 (Loeb Classical Library).
16. Strab. (= Strabon, Geographika) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Strabo, The Geography. Trans.: H. L. Jones, vol. VIII. London 1920 (Loeb Classical Library).
17. Var. R. (= Marcus Terentius Varro, De Re Rustica), Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Marcus Terentius Varro, On Agriculture. Trans.: W. D. Hooper. London 1934.
18. ANRW Aufstieg und Niedergang der Römischen Welt: Geschichte und Kultur Roms im Spiegel der Neueren Forschung. Eds.: H. Temporini – W. Haase. Berlin – New York 1972 vd.
19. Aquerreta et al. 2001 Y. Aquerreta, I. Astiasarán – J. Bello, “Use of Exogenous Enzymes to Elaborate the Roman Fish Sauce Garum”. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture 82 (2001) 107-112.
20. Aslan 2011 E. Aslan, Kekova Bölgesi Limanları. Yayınlanmamış Doktora Tezi, Selçuk Üniversitesi. Konya 2011.
21. Atik 2008 S. Atik, “Marcus Gavius Apicius ve Garum”. Ankara Üniversitesi, Dil Tarih-Coğrafya Fakültesi Arkeoloji Bölümü Dergisi, III. ve IV. Arkeolojik Araştırmalar Sempozyumu, Anadolu Ek Dizin No: 2 (2008) 15-25.
22. Andre 1981 J. Andre, L’Alimentation et la cuisine á Rome. Paris 1981.
23. Beddows 1985 C. G. Beddows, “Fermented Fish and Fish Products”. Microbiology of Fermented Foods 2 (1985) 1-39.
24. Ben Lazreg et al. 1995 N. Ben Lazreg, M. Bonifay, A. Drine – P. Trousset, “Production et Commercialisation des Salsamenta de l’Afrique Ancienne”. Ed.: P. Trousset, Productions et Exportations Africaines. Actualitiés Archéologiques. Paris (1995) 103-142.
25. Berdowski 2008 P. Berdowski, “Garum of Herod the Great (Latin-Greek Inscription on the Amphora from Masada)”. The Qumran Chronicle 16-3/4 (2008) 107- 122.
26. Berdowski 2013 P. Berdowski, “In Search of the Lexical Meaning of the Latin Terms Cetarius and Cetaria”. Eds. P. Kretschmer – F. Skutsch, Zeitsrift für Griechishe und Lateinische Sprache, Glotta 89. Göttingen (2013) 47-61.
27. Bernal et al. 2009 D. Bernal, D. Cottica – A. Zaccaria , “El garum de Pompeya y Herculano (2008-2012). Síntesis de la primera campaña del proyecto hispanoitaliano”. Proyectos Arqueológicos en el Exterior 2008, Madrid (2009) 125-137.
28. Bursa 2007 P. Bursa, Antikçağ’da Anadolu’da Balık ve Balıkçılık. Yayınlanmamış Doktora Tezi, İstanbul Üniversitesi. İstanbul 2007.
29. BSS Black Sea Studies. Danish National Research Foundation's Centre. 2003- CJ The Classical Journal. The Classical Association of the Middle West and South (CAMWS).
30. Corcoran 1957 T.H. Corcoran, The Roman Fishing Industry of the Late Republic and Early Empire. Yayınlanmamış Doktora Tezi, Northwestern University. Illinois 1957.
31. Corcoran 1963 T. H. Corcoran, “Roman Fish Souces”. The Classical Journal, 58/5 (1963) 204-210.
32. Cotton et al. 1996 H. Cotton – O. Lerenau – Y. Goren, “Fish Sauces from Herodian Masada”. JRA 9 (1996) 223-238.
33. Curtis 1979 R. I. Curtis, “The Garum Shop of Pompeii”. Cronache Pompeiane 5 (1979) 5-23.
34. Curtis 1983 R. I. Curtis, “In Defense of Garum”. CJ 78 (1983) 232-240.
35. Curtis 1988 R. I. Curtis, “Spanish Trade in Salted Fish Products in the 1st and 2nd Centuries A.D.”. International Journal of Nautical Archaeology and Underwater Exploration 17 (1988) 205-210.
36. Curtis 1991 R. I. Curtis, Garum and Salsamenta: Production and Commerce in Materia Medica. Leiden – New York 1991.
37. Desse-Berset – Desse 2000 N. Desse-Berset – J. Desse, “Salsamenta, Garum et autres Préparations de Poissons”. MEFRA 112 (2000) 84-92.
38. Drexhage 1993 H. J. Drexhage, “Garum und Garumhandel im Römischen und Spätantiken Ägypten”. MünstBeitr 12 (1993) 27-55.
39. Eberl 1892 G. Eberl, Die Fischkonserven der Alten. Stadtamhof 1892.
40. Étienne 1970 R. Étienne, “À propos du garum sociorum”. Latomus 29 (1970) 297-313.
41. Étienne – Mayet 1991 R. Étienne – F. Mayet, “Le garum à la mode de Scaurus, in: Alimenta”. Ed.: M. Ponsich, Le Flem, Jean Paul. Alimente Vol. 3. Facultad de Geografia e Historia, Universidad Complutense de Madrid (1991) 187- 194.
42. Étienne – Mayet 1998 R. Étienne – F. Mayet, “Le garum à Pompei”. Production et commerce, REA 100 (1998) 199-215.
43. Étienne – Mayet 2002 R. Étienne – F. Mayet, Salaisons et souces de poisson hispaniques. Paris 2002.
44. Gildberg 2004 A. R. Gildberg, “Enzymes and Bioactive Peptides from Fish Waste Related to Fish Silage, Fish Feed and Fish Sauce Production”. Journal of Aquatic Food Product Technology 13/2 (2004) 3-11.
45. Grainger 2011 S. Grainger “Roman Fish Sauce: an Experiment in Archaeology”. Ed.: H. Saberi, Cured, Fermented and Smoked Foods, Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2010. Oxford (2011) 121-131.
46. Greene et al. 2011 E. S. Greene, J. Leidwagner – H. A. Özdaş, “Two Early Archaic Shipwrecks at Kekova Adası and Kepçe Burnu, Turkey”. IJNA 40/1 (2011) 60-68.
47. Grimal – Monod 1952 P. Grimal – T. Monod, “Sur la Véritable Nature du Garum”. REA 54 (1952) 27-38.
48. Haley 1990 E. W. Haley, “The Fish Sauce Trader L. Iunius Puteolanus”. ZPE 80 (1990) 72-78.
49. IJNA International Journal of Nautical Archaeology. Ed. M. Richardson. New York.
50. Ivanova 1994 N. V. Ivanova, “Fish Remains from Archaeological Sites of the Northern Part of the Black Sea Region (Olbia, Berezan)”. Offa 51(1994) 278-283.
51. Jardin 1961 C. Jardin, “Garum et Sauces de Poisson de l’antiquité”. Rivista di Studi Liguri 27 (1961) 70-96.
52. JRA Journal of Roman Archaeology. London.
53. Kılınç 2003 B. Kılınç, “Balık Sosu Teknolojisi”. Ege Üniversitesi Su Ürünleri Dergisi 20/1-2 (2003) 263-272.
54. Köhler 1832 H. K. E. Köhler, Ταριχος, ou recherches sur l’histoire et les antiquités des pêcheries de la Russie méridionale, Mémoires de l’Academie Impériale de Sciences de St Peterburg, 6 série, t. 1. St. Petersburg 1832.
55. Lenger 2008 D. S. Lenger, “Antikçağ’da Garum”. Arkeoloji ve Sanat 129 (2008) 69-76.
56. Lernau et al. 1996 O. Lernau, H. Cotton – Y. Goren, “Salted Fish and Fish Sauces from Masada: A Preliminary Report”. Archaeofauna 5 (1996) 35-41.
57. Lowe 1997 B. J. Lowe, The Trade and Production of Garum and its Role in the Provincial Economy of Hispania Tarraconensis. Yayınlanmamış Doktora Tezi, Edinburgh University. Edinburgh 1997.
58. Mackie et al. 1971 I. M. Mackie, R. Hardy – G. Hobbs, Fermented Fish Products. Rome 1971.
59. Martin-Kilcher 1990 S. Martin-Kilcher, “Fischsaucen und Fischkonserven aus dem Römischen Gallien”. Archäologie der Schweiz 13 (1990) 37-44.
60. MEFRA Mélanges de l’École Française de Rome Antiquité. Paris.
61. Neer – Lentacker 1994 W. V. Neer – A. Lentacker, “New Archaeological Evidence for the Consumption of Locally-produced Fish Sauce in the Northern Provinces of the Roman Empire”. Archaeonautica 3 (1994) 53-62.
62. Neer - Depraetere 2005 W. V. Neer – D. Depraetere “Pickled fish from the Egyptian Nile: Osteological Evidence from a Byzantine (Coptic) Context at Shanhûr”. Revue de Paléobiologie 10 (2005) 159-170.
63. Neer et al. 2006 W. V. Neer, S. H. Dyer, R. Cappers, K. Desender – A. Ervynck, “The Roman Trade in Salted Nilotic Fish Products: Some Examples from Egypt”. Documenta Archaeobiologiae 4 (2006) 173-188.
64. Nicolaou – Flinder 1976 K. Nicolaou – A. Flinder “Ancient Fish-Tanks at Lapithos, Cyprus”. International Journal of Nautical Archaeology and Underwater Exploration 5/2 (1976) 133-141.
65. Opait 2007 A. Opait, “A Weighty Matter: Pontic Fish Amphorae, The Black Sea in Antiquity, Regional and Interregional Economic Exchanges”. BSS 6 (2007) 101-121.
66. Ørsted 1998 P. Ørsted, “Salt, fish and the Sea in the Roman Empire”. Eds.: I. Nielsen – H. S. Nielsen, Meals in a Social Context. Aspects of the Communal Meal in the Hellenistic and Roman World. Aarhus (1998) 13-35.
67. Ponsich – Tarradell 1965 M. Ponsich – M. Tarradell, Garum Et İndustries Antiques De Salaison Dans La Méditerranée Occidentale. Paris 1965.
68. Ponsich 1967 M. Ponsich, “Kouass, port antique et carrefour des voies de la Tingitane”. Bulletin d’Archéologie Marocaine 7 (1967) 369-405.
69. Ponsich 1975 M. Ponsich, “Pérennité des Relations dans le Circuit de Détroit de Gibraltar”. ANRW 2/3 (1975) 655-684.
70. Ponsich 1976 M. Ponsich, “A propos d’une usine Antique de salaisons à Belo”. Mélanges de la Casa de Velazquez 12 (1976) 69-79.
71. Powell 2003 O. Powell, Galen. On the Properties of Foodstuffs. Cambridge 2003. RE Real-Encyclopaedie der Classischen Altertumswissenschaft. Eds. A. Pauly, G. Wissowa – W. Kroll. Stuttgart (München).
72. Smidth 1875 J. K. Smidth, “Historical Observations on the Condition of the Fisheries among the Ancient Greeks and Romans, and on their Mode of Salting and Pickling Fish”. U.S. Congress, Senate. 43rd Congress Miscellaneous Documents, 108, Washington (1875) 34-62.
73. Stolba 2005 V. F. Stolba, “Fish and Money: Numismatic Evidence for Black Sea Fishing”. Ed. Tønnes Bekker-Nielsen, Ancient fishing and fish processing in the Black Sea Region. BSS 2 (2005) 115-203.
74. Trakadas 2005 A. Trakadas, “The Archaeological Evidence for Fish Processing in the Western Mediterranean. Ancient fishing and fish processing in the Black Sea Region”. BSS 2 (2005) 47-82.
75. Chrone-Vakalopoulos – Vakalopoulos 2009 M. Chrone-Vakalopoulos – A. Vakalopoulos, “Fishes and Other Aquatic Species in the Byzantine Literature, Classification, Terminology and Scientific Names”. BYZANTINA SYMMEIKTA 18 (2009)123-157.
76. Wilkins 1994 J. Wilkins – S. Hill, Archestratus: The Life of Luxury. Trans.: J. Wilkins – S. Hill. Totnes 1994.
77. Wilkins 2005 J. Wilkins, “Fish as a Source of Food in Antiquity. Ancient Fishing and Fish Processing in the Black Sea Region”. BSS 2 (2005) 21-30.
78. Zahn 1910 R. Zahn, “Garum”. RE 7/1 (1910) 841-849.
79. Zimmermann 1992 M. Zimmermann, “Die Lykische Häfen und die Handelswege im Östlichen Mittelmeer”. ZPE 92 (1992) 201-217.
80. Zimmermann 2000 M. Zimmermann, “Teimusa- ein Zentrallykischer Hafenplatz als Mittler Kulturellen Wandels”. AW 31 (2000) 333-342.
81. Zimmermann 2003 M. Zimmermann, “Hafen und Hinterland. Wege der Akkulturation an der lykischen Küste. Vorbericht über die Feldforschungen in den Zentrallykischen Orten Tyberissos und Timiussa in den Jahren 1999 – 2001”. IstMitt 53 (2003) 265-312.
82. Zimmermann 2006 M. Zimmermann, “Lykien”. Eds. W. Radt, Stadtgrabungen und Stadtforschung im westlichen Kleinasien, Geplantes und Erreichtes, BYZAS 3, 6/7 August 2004 in Bergama. İstanbul (2006) 199-215.
83. ZPE Zeitschrift für Papyrologie und Epigraphik. Bonn 1967 –.