Seasonal morphological changes and grain size distribution mapping on the Massa beaches using a tachometer and GIS

Abstract

Sandy beaches are complex, highly dynamic, fragile environments that are constantly evolving. Understanding the dynamics of these areas is crucial, both for fundamental science and for coastal zone management. This study presents the results of a seasonal morphological and sedimentological monitoring of the sandy beaches of Massa, located in the central-western region of Morocco. This monitoring was conducted using both an electronic total station and the spatialization of grain size indices (median, sorting index So, and skewness) through interpolation within a Geographic Information System (GIS). A total of 15 topographic profiles were surveyed perpendicular to the coastline during three field campaigns conducted between September 2019 and July 2020. The results indicate a morphodynamic equilibrium of the beaches, characterized by a normal morphological cycle with erosion during winter and accretion during summer. This balance is primarily attributed to the physical behavior of the beaches in response to wave energy, as well as the presence of a highly developed coastal dune capable of supplying sediment to the beaches during periods of shortage. Additionally, the spatialization of grain size indices from 90 samples clearly highlights the significance of hydrodynamic factors, such as waves, tides, currents, littoral drift, and winds, in the distribution of sandy sediments on the Massa beaches. Atlantic waves from the NNW sector, accompanied by a North-South littoral drift, govern the transport and deposition of sediments along beaches, while tides, currents, and local winds contribute to their redistribution across the different beach zones (foreshore, backshore, and coastal dune). Indeed, seasonal hydrodynamic conditions, as well as the proximity or distance of sediment source zones, play a critical role in sediment distribution along these beaches, providing valuable insights for coastal management strategies aimed at mitigating erosion, preserving beach morphology, and ensuring sustainable development in coastal zones.

Keywords

• Tachometer
• GIS
• Beach
• Massa
• topographic profile

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