Avangard Bir Tasarımın Tekrarlanan Görselleri Üzerinden Derridacı Yapısökümü Okumak

Abstract

Bu makale, bir durum incelemesi çalışması olarak Hüseyin Çağlayan'ın Memory Dress tasarımına odaklanır ve Derridacı yapıbozumun eleştirel avangard yöntemi ile avangard moda tasarımı arasındaki benzerliklere işaret etmek için içerik analizi yapar. Memory Dress'in dört farklı versiyonu üzerinde yürütülen içerik analizini standart hale getirmek için bir kodlama şeması kullanılmıştır. Çalışma, Memory Dress'in dönüştürülebilir yüksek yaka, parlak düğme, dikey iğne dikişi, yatay çift dikişi ve yama göğüs cebi gibi tasarım detaylarına odaklanır ve Derridacı metinlerarasılık, iz ve différance kavramları altında her kategoriyi ayrı ayrı inceler. Kodlama şeması, giysinin görsel görüntüleri üzerinde yapılan nitel analiz yoluyla her Derridacı kavramının görsel karşılığını ortaya çıkarır. Bu şekilde makale, avangart bir giysinin yapısını dekonstrüktivist normlarla ilişkili olarak açıklamaktadır. Bu amaçla, makale, bir giysinin yapısal olarak nasıl somutlaştığını ve Derridacı metinlerarasılık, iz ve différance kavramlarını görsel olarak nasıl ilettiğini göstermektedir. Makale, tasarım detayları ve motifler üzerine soyut, felsefi terimleri somutlaştırarak, postmodern eleştirel düşünce ile avangard yaratıcılık arasındaki paralelliği vurgulamaktadır.

Keywords

• içerik analizi
• avangard
• tasarım
• Derrida
• yapısöküm
• iz
• metinlerarasılık
• differance

Reading Derridean Deconstruction on the Repetitive Visuals of an Avant-garde Design

Abstract

This article focuses on Hussein Chalayan’s Memory Dress as a case study and applies content analysis on it so as to point out the similarities between the critical avant-garde method of Derridean deconstruction and avant-garde fashion design. A coding schema is utilized to standardize the content analysis conducted on the variety of styles of the Memory Dress. The study focuses on the design details of the Memory Dress such as the convertible high-stand collar, the shiny button, the vertical needle stitch, the horizontal double stitches and the chest patch pocket and studies each category separately under the Derridean concepts of intertextuality, trace and différance. The coding schema reveals the visual equivalence of each Derridean concept through the qualitative analysis conducted on the visual images of the garment. This way, the article explains an avant-garde garment’s structure in relation to deconstructivist norms. With such intention, the article demonstrates how a garment structurally embodies and visually communicates the Derridean notions of intertextuality, trace and différance. By materializing abstract, philosophical terms on design details, and motifs, the article highlights the parallelism between postmodern critical thinking, and avant-garde creativity.

Keywords

• content analysis
• avant-garde
• design
• Derrida
• Deconstruction
• trace
• intertextuality
• differance

References

1. Baugh, B. (1997). Making the difference: Deleuze's difference and Derrida's différance. Social Semiotics, 7(2), 127-146.
2. Best, S. and Kellner, D. (1991). Postmodern theory: Critical interrogations. New York: Guilford Press.
3. Black, P. (2009). The detail: Setting fashion systems in motion. Fashion Theory,13(4), 499-510. doi: https://doi.org/10.2752/175174109X467503
4. Bryman, A. (2004). Social research methods. New York: Oxford University Press.
5. Calcagno, A. (2009). Foucault and Derrida: The question of empowering and disempowering the author. Springer, 32(1), 33-51.
6. Can, E. (2016). Anlam arayışında Derrida’nın yinelenebirlik ve différance söylemi. Kaygı Uludağ Universitesi Fen Edebiyat Fakültesi Felsefe Dergisi, 27(27), 15-28.
7. Caputo, J. (1997). Deconstruction in a nutshell. New York: Fordham University Press.
8. Cassell, C. and Symon, G. (1994). Qualitative research in work contexts. In C Cassell and G Symon (Ed), Qualitative Methods in Organizational Research, a Practical Guide, 1-13: London: Sage.

9. Culler, J. (1982). On deconstruction: Theory and criticism after structuralism. London: Routledge.
10. Derrida, J. (1988). Limited Inc. Evanston, IL: North-western University Press.
11. -- (1981). Positions. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
12. -- (1978). Cogito and the history of madness. In: A. Bass (Ed), Writing and Difference, 31-63: London & New York: Routledge.
13. -- (1967). Of Grammatology. Maryland: Johns Hopkins University Press.
14. Evans, C. (2003). Fashion at the edge: Spectacle, modernity & deathliness. New Haven: Yale University Press.
15. Foucault, M. (1961). Madness and civilization: A history of insanity in the age of reason. New York: Pantheon Books.
16. Gasché, R. (1987). Infrastructures and systematicity. In: J. Sallis (Ed), Deconstruction and Philosophy: The Texts of Jacques Derrida, 3-20: Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
17. -- (2015). Jacques Derrida: Fashion under erasure. In: A. Rocamora and A. Smelik (Ed), Thinking Through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists, 251-268: London: I.B. Tauris.
18. Haberer, A. (2007). Intertextuality in theory and practice. Literatura, 49(5), 54-67.
19. Hartley, J. (2004). Case study research. In: C. Cassell and G. Symon (Ed), Essential Guide to Qualitative Methods in Organizational Research, 323-333: London: Sage.
20. Hendricks, P. (2016). Deconstruction the end of writing: Everything is a text, there is nothing outside context. Verbum et Ecclesia, 32(1), 2-9. doi: https://doi.org/10.4102/ve.v37i1.1509
21. Irwin, W. (2004). Against intertextuality. Philosophy and Literature, 28(2), 227-242.
22. Jackson, L. (2014). The poverty of structuralism: Literature and structuralist theory. New York: Routledge.
23. Kearney, R. (1996). Modern movements in European philosophy. Manchester and New york: Manchester University Press.
24. Kwon, H. S. (2007). Deconstructionism in Issey Miyake's Fashion Design. Journal of Fashion Business, 11(6), 87-100.
25. Kwon, H. S. and Keum, Y. J. (2008). Characteristics of avant-garde deconstruction-ism expressed in Alexander McQueen’s design. Journal of Fashion Business, 12(2), 100-116.
26. Orman, T. (2015). Language in Jacques Derrida’s thought. Cilicia Journal of Philosophy, (1), 61-81.
27. Patton, E. and Appelbaum, S. (2003). The case for case studies in management research. Management Research News, 26(5), 60-71.
28. Rocamora, A. (2015). Thinking through fashion: A guide to key theorists. London: I. B. Tauris.
29. Rutli, E. (2019). Yapısöküm ve hakikat. Düşünbil, 75.
30. Sarup, M. (1993). Post-structuralism and postmodernism. Essex: Pearson.
31. Williams, J. (2005). Understanding post-structuralism. Malta: Gutenberg Press.