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Dressing the Empire: Clothing, Identity, and Social Control in the Ottoman Millet System

Year 2024, Volume: 8 Issue: 2, 99 - 134, 31.07.2024
https://doi.org/10.47478/lectio.1489487

Abstract

This article explores the intricate relationship between the millet system and dressing within the Ottoman Empire, emphasizing how attire served as a potent symbol of communal identity and religious affiliation intertwined with the socio-political fabric of society. By analyzing historical texts, images, and clothing artifacts, the study illustrates how the Ottoman administration employed dressing as a cultural identity marker and a means of religious and social control. The Empire managed its diverse population through the millet system by allowing religious communities, or millets, significant autonomy within a structured governance framework. Dressing styles within these millets were not merely functional or aesthetic choices but were imbued with deep symbolic meanings that reflected the complex interplay of identity, status, and religious adherence. Each community’s distinctive attire helped reinforce social boundaries and foster a sense of belonging and collective identity among its members. The research highlights significant transitions in the traditional dress codes influenced by political reforms, such as the Tanzimat’s push towards modernization and secularization, which gradually shifted public expressions of identity. This shift was marked by a tension between preserving traditional attire and adopting more homogenized, secular dress styles, reflecting broader socio-political changes within the Empire. In conclusion, the article provides insights into how dressing transcended mere personal adornment to act as a crucial medium through which communal identities were negotiated, expressed, and maintained within the Ottoman public sphere. This examination enriches the historical understanding of the Ottoman millet system and contributes to broader discussions on fashion, religion, and identity formation.

Thanks

This article is based on the master's thesis titled "The Role of Clothing in Identity Construction in Multicultural Societies: Ottoman-Turkish Modernization," which was conducted under the supervision of Associate Professor Ayşe Günay at the Department of Fashion Design at Işık University.

References

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Year 2024, Volume: 8 Issue: 2, 99 - 134, 31.07.2024
https://doi.org/10.47478/lectio.1489487

Abstract

References

  • Adaş, S., & Konuralp, E. (2020a). Eski Yugoslavya’da Sırp milliyetçiliğinin tarihsel temelleri ve Yugoslavya Sosyalist Federal Cumhuriyeti’nin dağılmasına etkileri. Anadolu ve Balkan Araştırmaları Dergisi, 3(6), 107–139. https://doi.org/10.32953/abad.755901
  • Adaş, S., & Konuralp, E. (2020b). Sırp milliyetçiliği fay hattında Bosna-Hersek siyasetinin krizi. Barış Araştırmaları ve Çatışma Çözümleri Dergisi, 8(2), 102–126.
  • Adıyeke, N. (1999). Islahat Fermanı öncesinde Osmanlı İmparatorluğunda millet sistemi ve gayrimuslimlerin yaşantılarına dair. Osmanlı, 4, .255-261.
  • Akbaş, P. (2020). İstanbul’da Ermeniler. In S. Dadyan (Ed.), İstanbul’un renkleri (pp. 75–111). İstanbul Büyükşehir Belediyesi Kültür AŞ.
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  • Armstrong, J. A. (1982). Nations before nationalism. University of North Carolina Press.
  • Bağcı, S. (1996). İslam toplumlarında matemi simgeleyen renkler: Mavi, mor, siyah. In J.-L. Bacque-Grammont & A. Tibet (Eds.), İslam dünyasında mezarlıklar ve defin gelenekleri (pp. 163–168). Türk Tarih Kurumu Basımevi.
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  • Barkey, K., & Gavrilis, G. (2016). The Ottoman millet system: Non-territorial autonomy and its contemporary legacy. Ethnopolitics, 15(1), 24–42. https://doi.org/10.1080/17449057.2015.1101845
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  • Belon, P. (1554). Les observations de plusieurs singularitez & choses mémmorables, trouvées en Grèce, Asie, Judée, Égypte, Arabie, aux autres pays étrangers. 3. Vol. Guillaume Cavellat & Gilles Corrozet.
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  • Chrisman-Campbell, K. (2011). From Baroque elegance to the French Revolution: 1700–1790. In L. Welters & A. Lillethun (Eds.), The fashion reader (pp. 37–53). Bloomsbury.
  • Çiçek, K. (1996). Osmanlılar ve zimmîler: Papa Pavlos’un İslam’a hakareti ya da renklere isyanı. Toplumsal Tarih, 25, 28–33.
  • Cohen, M. R. (2008). Under crescent and cross: The Jews in the Middle Ages. Princeton University Press.
  • Dadyan, S. (2020). Eski İstanbul’un unutulmuş cemaati Bulgarlar. In S. Dadyan (Ed.), İstanbul’un renkleri (pp. 37–71). İstanbul Büyükşehir Belediyesi Kültür AŞ.
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  • Dalvimart, O. (1802). The costume of Turkey. Howlett and Brimmer for William Miller.
  • Davis, R. (1967). Aleppo and Devonshire Square: English traders in the Levant in the eighteenth century. Palgrave Macmillan.
  • Durkheim, É. (2001). The elementary forms of religious life. Oxford University Press.
  • Elliot, M. (2004). Dress codes in the Ottoman Empire: the case of the Franks. In S. Faroqhi & C. K. Neumann (Eds.), Ottoman costumes: From textile to identity (pp. 103–123). Eren Yayıncılık.
  • Ergul, F. A. (2012). The Ottoman identity: Turkish, Muslim or Rum? Middle Eastern Studies, 48(4), 629–645. https://doi.org/10.1080/00263206.2012.683337
  • Ersoy, A. (2004). A sartorial tribute to late Tanzimat Ottomanism: The Elbise-i Osmaniyye Album. In S. Faroqhi & C. K. Neumann (Eds.), Ottoman costumes: From textile to identity (pp. 253–270). Eren Yayıncılık.
  • Eryılmaz, B. (1992). Osmanlı Devleti’nde millet sistemi. Ağaç Yayıncılık.
  • Faroqhi, S. (2000). Subjects of the sultan: Culture and daily life in the Ottoman Empire. I. B. Tauris.
  • Faroqhi, S. (2004). Introduction, or why and how one might want to study Ottoman clothes. In S. Faroqhi & C. K. Neumann (Eds.), Ottoman costumes: From textile to identity (pp. 15–48). Eren Yayıncılık.
  • Francis, E. K. (1976). Interethnic relations: an essay in sociological theory. Elsevier.
  • Gervers, V. (1983). Construction of Türkmen coats. Textile History, 14(1), 3–27.
  • Hole, F. (2009). Pastoral mobility as an adaptation. In J. Szuchman (Ed.), Nomads, tribes, and the state in the ancient Near East: Cross-disciplinary perspectives (pp. 261–183). Oriental Institute of the University of Chicago.
  • Hutchinson, J., & Smith, A. D. (1996). Introduction. In J. Hutchinson & A. D. Smith (Eds.), Ethnicity (pp. 3–14). Oxford University Press.
  • İnalcık, H. (1994). An economic and social history of the Ottoman Empire. Cambridge University Press.
  • Jirousek, C. (2004). Ottoman influences in Western dress. In S. Faroqhi & C. K. Neumann (Eds.), Ottoman costumes: From textile to identity (pp. 231–251). Eren Yayıncılık.
  • Karamustafa, A. T. (2007). Sufism: the formative period. University of California Press.
  • Karpat, K. H. (1985). Ottoman population, 1830-1914: Demographic and social characteristics. University of Wisconsin Press.
  • Karpat, K. H. (2003). Osmanlı nüfusu (1830-1914): Demografik ve sosyal özellikleri. Tarih Vakfı Yurt Yayınları. Konuralp, E. (2013). Ecevit ve milliyetçilik. Togan Yayıncılık.
  • Konuralp, E. (2017). Etnik kimliğin veçheleri ve etnisite kuramları. In E. B. Ateş Çiftçi (Ed.), Kriz, kimlik ve ötesi (pp. 14–16). İstanbul Yeni Yüzyıl Üniversitesi.
  • Konuralp, E. (2018). Kimliğin etni ve ulus arasında salınımı: Çokkültürcülük mü yeniden kabilecilik mi? Eskişehir Osmangazi Üniversitesi İktisadi ve İdari Bilimler Dergisi, 13(2), 133–146. https://doi.org/10.17153/oguiibf.400350
  • Konuralp, E. (2021). On Mithat Paşa’s governorships in the Balkans. In A. Haşimov & M. Şabanov (Eds.), Al Farabi Journal 9th International Conference on Social Sciences full text book (pp. 116–131). Farabi Publishing House.
  • Konuralp, E., & Adaş, S. (2020). Makedonya’da isim sorunu: Yunan ve Makedon milliyetçiliklerinin kıskacında kimlik inşası. Iğdır Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, 21, 311–343.
  • Küçük, C. (1985). Osmanlılarda “millet sistemi” ve Tanzimat. In Tanzimattan Cumhuriyete Türkiye ansiklopedisi (pp. 1007–1024). İletişim Yayıncılık.
  • Kurtaran, U. (2011). Osmanlı İmparatorluğu’nda millet sistemi. Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü Dergisi, 8, 57–71.
  • Kymlicka, W. (2016). Çağdaş siyaset felsefesine giriş (3rd ed.). İstanbul Bilgi Üniversitesi Yayınları.
  • Lewis, B. (1993). Modern Türkiye’nin doğuşu. Rey Yayıncılık.
  • MacKenzie, J. (1995). Orientalism: History, theory and the arts. Manchester University Press.
  • Marion-Crawford, F. (2019). 1890’larda İstanbul (7th ed.). Türkiye İş Bankası Kültür Yayınları.
  • Masters, B. (2001). Christians and Jews in the Ottoman Arab world: The roots of sectarianism. Cambridge University Press.
  • McCarthy, J. (1995). Death and exile: The ethnic cleansing of Ottoman Muslims, 1821-1922. The Darwin Press.
  • Mendus, S. (1989). Toleration and the limits of liberalism. Humanities Press. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-349-20056-6
  • Molinas, İ. V. (2020). İstanbul Yahudileri. In S. Dadyan (Ed.), İstanbul’un renkleri (pp. 281–355). İstanbul Büyükşehir Belediyesi Kültür AŞ.
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Details

Primary Language English
Subjects Political Sociology
Journal Section Research Articles
Authors

Mehmet Ada Özdil 0000-0003-1793-7441

Publication Date July 31, 2024
Submission Date May 24, 2024
Acceptance Date July 30, 2024
Published in Issue Year 2024 Volume: 8 Issue: 2

Cite

APA Özdil, M. A. (2024). Dressing the Empire: Clothing, Identity, and Social Control in the Ottoman Millet System. Lectio Socialis, 8(2), 99-134. https://doi.org/10.47478/lectio.1489487

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