Kendin Yap (Do It Yourself/DIY) Akımının Punk Alt Kültüründeki Giyim ve Aksesuarlar Bağlamında İncelenmesi

Yıl 2022, Cilt: 12 Sayı: 1, 395 - 412, 29.03.2022

Öznur Enes

https://doi.org/10.48146/odusobiad.1074586

Cited By: 1

Öz

Bireyin farklı amaçlarla üretimin bir parçası olma durumu varoluşunun bir yansımasıdır. Her ne kadar Endüstri Devrimi sonrasında seri üretimin genişlemesiyle tüketici konumuna gelmiş olsa da, kimi zaman ihtiyaçtan kimi zaman da var olan ekonomik yapıya karşı duruş olarak, tüketici kimliğine paralel, üretimini kendisi yapma yolunu seçmiştir. Genel anlamda baktığımızda herhangi bir uzman desteği almadan eldeki malzemelerin kullanılması ile yapılan her türlü çalışmayı "Kendin Yap" (Do it Yourself /DIY) kavramı ile ifade emek mümkündür. Ortaya çıkış nedenleri, içerdiği motivasyonlar vs farklı görünse de bu akımın öne çıktığı belirli toplumsal hareketler de göze çarpmaktadır. Bunlardan biri Punk kültürüdür. Punk müzik türüne paralel ortaya çıkan bu kültür, toplumsal, siyasal ve ekonomik yapının içerisinde kitleleri peşinden sürükleyen bir hareketin başlangıcı olmuştur. Punklar, kapitalist düzene karşı çıkarak, seri üretimle elde edilmiş nesneleri değiştirip, dönüştürerek “kendin yap” hareketini, başkaldırıyı, toplumsal düzene karşı duruşu sembolik bir yaklaşım olarak benimsemiş ve en önemlisi üretimin biricikliğini ortaya koyan çalışmalar sergilemiştir. Punk ideolojisi çatısı altında yapı bozumu çağrıştıran manipülasyonlarla ve çeşitli temalarla giyim ve aksesuarlar biricik üretimler halinde sunulmuş; böylelikle tüketim kültürüne karşı bir eylem inşa edilmiştir. Punk müzik türü ve alt kültürü zaman içerisinde çeşitlenerek yeni punk müzik türleri ve alt kültürleri ortaya çıkmıştır. Bu çalışmada punk müziğin ortaya çıktığı 1970’li yıllara dair incelemelerde bulunulacak, özellikle punk alt kültürü ile özdeşleşen Do it Yourself akımının genel motivasyonunu anlamak adına bilgiler sunulacaktır. Burada aktarılan temel motivasyon başlıklarının punk kültürü ile göstermiş olduğu değişimler üzerinde durularak, konu giyim ve aksesuarlar bağlamında incelenecektir. Punk kültüründe kendin yap pratikleri her ne kadar anti-moda olgusu içerisinde yer alsa da, tüm olgularda olduğu gibi punk da nihayetinde bir moda akımı halini almıştır. Çalışmada moda olgusu bağlamındaki punk kavramı, punk’ın savunduğu tüketim toplumuna karşı olma fikrine saygı olarak olabildiğince kısa tutulmuştur. Sosyal bilimlerde farklı disiplinlerce incelenen punk kültürü alanımızla ilgili yeni çalışmalara ilham kaynağı oluşturmakta olup örnek bir çalışma son bölümde sunulacaktır.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Tasarım, Punk, DIY, Moda, Aksesuar

Examining the Do It Yourself/DIY Movement in the Context of Clothing and Accessories in Punk Subculture

Öz

The state of the individual being a part of production for different purposes is a reflection of its existence. Although it became a consumer with the expansion of mass production after the Industrial Revolution, it chose to make its own production in parallel with consumer identity, sometimes as a stance against the existing economic structure from necessity. In general terms, it is possible to express all kinds of work done by using the materials available without any expert support with the concept of "Do it Yourself ". Although the reasons for its emergence, the motivations it contains, etc. may seem different, certain social movements in which this movement stands out also stand out. One of them is punk culture. This culture, which emerged parallel to the punk music genre, was the beginning of a movement that attracted the masses within the social, political, and economic structure. By opposing the capitalist order, punks have adopted the "do-it-yourself" movement, rebellion, and attitude towards social order as a symbolic approach by changing and transforming objects obtained by mass production, and most importantly, they have exhibited studies that reveal the uniqueness of production. Under the umbrella of punk ideology, clothing and accessories were presented in unique productions with manipulations and various themes that evoked destruction; thus, an action against the culture of consumption was built. The punk music genre and subculture diversified over time, emerged new punk music genres and subcultures. In this study, studies will be given about the 1970s when punk music appeared, and information will be presented to understand the general motivation of the Do it Yourself movement, which is especially synonymous with the punk subculture. The main motivational topics conveyed here will be examined in the context of clothing and accessories by focusing on the changes shown by punk culture. Although do-it-yourself practices are included in the anti-fashion phenomenon in punk culture, punk, like all phenomena, has ultimately become a fashion trend. In the study, the concept of punk in the context of the fashion phenomenon was kept as short as possible as a respect for the idea of being against the consumer society that punk advocates. It inspires new studies on our field of punk culture, which is studied by different disciplines in social sciences, and sample studies will be presented in the final section.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Design, Punk, DIY, Fashion, Accessory

Examining the Do It Yourself/DIY Movement in the Context of Clothing and Accessories in Punk Subculture

Öz

The state of the individual being a part of production for different purposes is a reflection of its existence. Although it became a consumer with the expansion of mass production after the Industrial Revolution, it chose to make its own production in parallel with consumer identity, sometimes as a stance against the existing economic structure from necessity. In general terms, it is possible to express all kinds of work done by using the materials available without any expert support with the concept of "Do it Yourself ". Although the reasons for its emergence, the motivations it contains, etc. may seem different, certain social movements in which this movement stands out also stand out. One of them is punk culture. This culture, which emerged parallel to the punk music genre, was the beginning of a movement that attracted the masses within the social, political, and economic structure. By opposing the capitalist order, punks have adopted the "do-it-yourself" movement, rebellion, and attitude towards social order as a symbolic approach by changing and transforming objects obtained by mass production, and most importantly, they have exhibited studies that reveal the uniqueness of production. Under the umbrella of punk ideology, clothing and accessories were presented in unique productions with manipulations and various themes that evoked destruction; thus, an action against the culture of consumption was built. The punk music genre and subculture diversified over time, emerged new punk music genres and subcultures. In this study, studies will be given about the 1970s when punk music appeared, and information will be presented to understand the general motivation of the Do it Yourself movement, which is especially synonymous with the punk subculture. The main motivational topics conveyed here will be examined in the context of clothing and accessories by focusing on the changes shown by punk culture. Although do-it-yourself practices are included in the anti-fashion phenomenon in punk culture, punk, like all phenomena, has ultimately become a fashion trend. In the study, the concept of punk in the context of the fashion phenomenon was kept as short as possible as a respect for the idea of being against the consumer society that punk advocates. It inspires new studies on our field of punk culture, which is studied by different disciplines in social sciences, and a study will be presented in the final section.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Design, Punk, DIY, Fashion, Accessory

Kaynakça

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