Biyotekstillerin Yenilikçi Malzeme Olarak Kullanımı
Year 2021,
, 606 - 631, 30.06.2021
Ayşegül Baydemir
,
Nuray Er Bıyıklı
Abstract
Tüketim ürünlerinde estetik ve işlevsellik dışında yeni arayışlara dair eğilimler her geçen gün yaygınlaşmaktadır. Bu doğrultuda “sürdürülebilirlik” temellendirmeli birçok vizyon ortaya çıkarken, tasarımcılar ve şirketler moda sektöründeki giyim ürünlerinin ekolojik ve etik olması için cevaplar aramaktadır. Bu temellendirme ile biyoteknoloji araştırmacılarının, biyotasarım ve biyofabrikasyon adı verilen sistemler ile biyolojik malzemeler üzerine çalışmaları devam ederken, tekstil ve moda tasarımcıları “yeni malzeme çağı” içinde disiplinlerarası ürün tasarımları geliştirmektedir. Bu gelişmeler çerçevesinde geleceğin giysi tasarımcıları için biyo-temelli malzemelerin varlığından haberdar olmak bir zorunluluk haline gelmiştir. Bu çalışmada biyo-temelli tekstil malzemelerinin kapsamı incelenerek, hazır giyim endüstrisindeki kullanım alanları ve fonksiyonları örneklerle ele alınacaktır. Böylelikle biyoteksitllerin hazır giyim tasarımına uygunluğu irdelenerek, potansiyel yükselişine dikkat çekmek ve giysi tasarımındaki kullanımının yaygınlaşmasına katkı sağlamak amaçlanmıştır.
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Year 2021,
, 606 - 631, 30.06.2021
Ayşegül Baydemir
,
Nuray Er Bıyıklı
References
- Bar-On, Y.M., Phillips, R., Milo, R. (2018). “The biomass distribution on Earth”, Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America (PNAS), Cilt 115, Sayı 25, s. 6506–6511.
- Barrett, E. ve Bolt, B. (2013). Carnal Knowledge: Towards a “New Materialism” through the Arts, Londra: I.B. Tauris.
- Benyus, J.M. (1997). Biomimicry, 2009 Adobe Digital Edition, Avustralya: HarperCollins Publishers.
- Bhat, P.V., Vanitha, K.P., ve Rangaswamy, B.E. (2016). Biotechnology in Fashion- A Review, International Journal of Modern Trends in Engineering and Research (IJMTER), Cilt 03, Sayı 03, s. 413-415.
- Chieza, N. ve Ward, J. (2015). Design in the Age of Living Technology, Proceedings of the 2nd Biennial Research Through Design Conference, 25-27 Mart, Cambrige Birleşik Krallık.
- Fritz, M., Belcher, A., Radmacher, M., Radmacher, M., Walters, D.A., Hansma, P.K., Stucky, G.D., Morse, D.E., Mann, S. (1994). “Flat pearls from biofabrication of organized composites on inorganic substrates”, Nature Research Journal, Sayı 371, s.49-51.
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- Myres, W. (2018). Bio Design, 3. Basım, Londra: Thames & Hudson Ltd.
- Quick Guide To Biosynthetics, Textile Exchange (2018).
- Quinn, B. (2012). Fashion Futures, 1. Basım, Londra: Merrell Publishers.
- Ratner, B., Hoffman, A.S., Schoen, F. J., Lemons, J. E. (2004). Biomaterials Science An Introduction to Materials in Medicine 2nd Edition, Londra: Elsevier Academic Yayınları.
- Smelik, A. (2018). “New materialism: A theoretical framework for fashion in the age of technological innovation”, International Journal of Fashion Studies, İntellect Yayınları, Cilt 5, Sayı 1, s.33-54.
- Material Innovation Initiative (2020), Technology Assessment: Mycelium Leather.
- The State of Fashion (2019), Business of Fashion, McKinsey Company.
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Williams, D. F. (1987). “Definitions in Biomaterials. Proceedings of a Consensus Conference of the European Society for Biomaterial”, Chester, İngiltere, Mart 3–5, 1986, Sayı. 4, Elsevier Yayınları.
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- “Biyoteknoloji”, https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/biotechnology, Erişim tarihi: 5.01.2021.
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- “Rekombinant” https://tr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rekombinant_DNA, Erişim tarihi: 13.01.2021.
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- Blonde and Bieber, Algea T-Shirt, https://www.blondandbieber.com/vollebak-algae-t-shirt, Erişim tarihi: 23.12.2020.
- Bolt Threads, Microsilk, https://boltthreads.com/technology/microsilk/, Erişim tarhi: 13.01.2021.
- Council of Fashion Designers of America, “Biyosynthetics or Bioplastics”, https://cfda.com/resources/materials/detail/biosynthetics-or-bioplastics), Erişim tarihi: 19.02.2021.
- Donghia Healthier Materials Library, 2020, https://healthymaterialslab.org/donghia, Erişim Tarihi: 13.01.2021.
- Edelkoort, L. (2016), “New York Textile Month will highlight the revival of cloth, says Li Edelkoort”, Dezeen, https://goo.gl/7aEKBW. Erişim tarihi, 02.01.2021.
- Fulgar, Evo, https://www.fulgar.com/eng/insights/bio-based-fiber-evo, Erişim Tarihi: 12.01.2021.
- Healthy Materials Lab, 2020 “https://healthymaterialslab.org/”, Erişim Tarihi: 13.01.2021.
- Healthy Materials Lab, Biofabricated Materials”, (2020). https://healthymaterialslab.org/material-collections/biofabricated-materials, Erişim Tairihi: 13.01.2020.
- Modern Meadow, https://www.modernmeadow.com/, Erişim tarihi: 12.01.2021.
- Mycoworks, Reishi, https://www.madewithreishi.com/stories/our-products, Erişim tarihi: 23.01.2020.
- Mylo – Unleather, https://www.mylo-unleather.com/, Erişim tarihi: 10.01.2021.
- Orange Fiber, http://orangefiber.it/en/, Erişim tarihi: 20.01.2021.
- Spiber, https://www.spiber.inc/en/tnfsp/mp/, Erişim tarihi: 08.01.2021.
- Spiber, Brewed Protein , https://www.spiber.inc/en/brewedprotein/, Erişim tarihi: 08.01.2021.
- Sustain Your Style, (2020). “Modanın Çevresel Etkileri”, https://www.sustainyourstyle.org/en/whats-wrong-with-the-fashionindustry?gclid=Cj0KCQiAuJb_BRDJARIsAKkycUlXRd1S_oXs6cERGyHoGPgn__FSsa7_qW23LC7zvIQCa8Ft853Xm3gaAuhHEALw_wcB, Erişim Tarihi: 26.12.2020.
- Textile Exchange (2018). “About Biosynthetics”, https://aboutbiosynthetics.org/feedstock-to-fashion/, Erişim Tarihi: 17.02.2021.
- Tierra, Deterra Biobased Jacket, https://tierra.com/materials/deterra-bio-based-jacket/, Erişim tarihi: 20.01.2021.