Dokusuz Yüzey Giysilik Kumaşların Dikim Performansları

Abstract

Dokusuz yüzey kumaşların dayanıklı giysilerde kullanımı kısıtlıdır. Bu kumaşların görece düşük dökümlülüğe, mekanik özelliklere ve esnekliğe sahip olması, onların giysiliklerde kullanılması şansını azaltmaktadır. Buna karşılık son yıllarda, dokusuz yüzey kumaşların giysilerde kullanım olanaklarının artırılması amacıyla, kumaş özelliklerini geliştirmek üzere çalışmalar yapılmaktadır. Bu noktada, bikomponent lif çekim teknolojisi ile su jetli fiksasyon metotlarının birlikte kullanılması faydalı olmuştur. Kumaş özelliklerine ek olarak, dokusuz yüzey kumaşların dayanıklı dikimler oluşturabilmesi de giysilik olarak kullanılabilirlikleri açısından oldukça önemlidir. Bu nedenle, bu çalışma kapsamında, poliester:poliamid bikomponent lifleri kullanılarak üretilmiş dokusuz yüzey kumaşların dikim performansları incelenmiştir. Bu amaçla, 3 farklı gramaja sahip kumaş kullanılmıştır. Dokuma giysilere benzetilmesi amacıyla dokusuz yüzey kumaşlar çift baskı dikişi ile 3 farklı dikiş uzunluğunda dikilmiştir. Çalışmanın sonuçlarına göre; seçilmiş dokusuz yüzey kumaşların dikiş mukavemetinde gramajın belirleyici bir faktör olmadığı görülmüştür. Ayrıca, daha düşük dikiş uzunluğu ile yeterli seviyede dikiş mukavemeti ve dikim verimliliği elde edildiği belirlenmiştir.

Keywords

• Dokusuz yüzey kumaş
• Giysi
• Dikiş mukavemeti
• Dikiş yeri
• Çift baskı dikişi
• Dikim verimliliği

Seam Performance of Nonwoven Apparel Fabrics

Abstract

Nonwoven fabrics have limited usage as durable apparel fabrics. Their relatively lower drape, mechanical properties and flexibility decrease their chance to be used as apparel fabrics. However, in the last decades, there are attempts to improve the nonwoven fabric properties in order to seize an opportunity for their use in durable apparel applications. At this point, usage of bicomponent fiber technology together with hydro-entanglement fixation method was found beneficial. In addition to the fabric properties, the suitability of nonwoven fabric for durable seams are quite important for their usability as apparel fabrics. Therefore, in this study, seam performance of nonwoven apparel fabrics made up of polyester: polyamide bicomponent fibers have been determined in order to reveal their usability for durable applications. For this purpose, nonwoven fabrics with 3 different unit masses were utilized. In order to mimic the seams of woven garments, nonwoven samples were sewn with lock stitch with 3 different stitch lengths. Results of the study showed that, unit mass was not a determinative factor for the seam performance of selected nonwoven samples. Also, it was inferred from the study that, sufficient seam strength and seam efficiency values could be obtained by using lower stitch lengths.

Keywords

• Nonwoven
• Apparel
• Seam strength
• Sewn seam
• Lock stitch
• Seam efficiency

Thanks

Nonwoven fabrics of the study were kindly supplied from Mogul Tekstil San. Tic. A.S. (Gaziantep, Turkey). Sewing yarn was supplied kindly from Coats Turkiye Iplik San. A.S. (Bursa, Turkey). The author thanks the companies for their supports.

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