Research Article
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Zero Waste Fashon Desıgn and Jıgsaw Puzzle, Tesselatıon, and Analysıng of Subtractıon Cutting Methods

Year 2021, Volume: 2 Issue: 2, 116 - 128, 25.06.2021

Abstract

The acceleration of the fashion cycle has increased the damage of this cycle to the environment. For this reason, the zero waste fashion design method is discussed as a solution proposal to eliminate cut-and-sew waste caused by fashion production. The aim of this study is to analyze the zero waste fashion design to investigate it with the most common methods in the literature, and to analyze the process from the perspective of the conventional fashion industry.
In this study, zero waste fashion design which is a design method that will prevent waste generation, designers employing the zero waste fashion method and their methods were investigated. Zero waste fashion design is possible by eliminating the fabric waste between the pattern parts by making the two-dimensional pattern design synchronously while designing three-dimensional garment design. Jigsaw puzzle, tessellation, and subtraction cut methods and designers who developed those methods such as Timo Rissanen, Holly McQuillan and Julian Robert were investigated with their designed garments. Consequently, zero waste fashion design methods prevent cut-and-sew waste before it occurs.

References

  • Aakko, M., & Niinimaki, K. (2013). 0% Waste, 100% Aesthetics. 10th European Academy of Design Conference - Crafting the Future. Gotenburg: Gothenburg University, School of Design and Crafts.
  • Abernathy, F. H., Dunlop, J. T., Hammond, J. H., & Weil, D. (1999). A stitch in time. Lean retailing and the transformation of manufacturing - Lessons from the apparel and textile industries. New York & Oxford: Oxford University Press.
  • Balcı, A. (2011). Sosyal Bilimlerde Araştırma Yöntem, Teknik ve İlkeler. Pegem Akademi. Ankara.
  • Cooklin, G. (1997). Garment Technology for Fashion Designers. Oxford: Blackwellsciences.
  • Ecochic Design Award. (2015). Sourcing Textile Waste. 05 30, 2021 http://www.ecochicdesignaward.com/wpcontent/blogs.dir/3/files/2013/04/LEARN2014_Sourcing_ENG-07.pdf
  • Ecochic Design Award. (2015). Sourcing Textile Waste. Retrieved 05 30, 2015, from Ecochic Design Award: http://www.ecochicdesignaward.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/3/files/2013/04/LEARN2014_Sourcing_ENG-07.pdf
  • Enes, E. (2019). Adaptation of Zero-waste Pattern Design Method to Fashion Industry with the Case of Turkey, Doktora tezi. İzmir: İzmir Ekonomi Üniversitesi.
  • Enes, E., Kipoz, Ş. (2019) Turkey Fashion Industry’s Cut-and-Sew Waste Problem and Its Waste Management Strategies, Tekstil ve Mühendis, 26: 113, 97-103.
  • Ericson, S. (2010, June/July). No Waste Allowed. Threads Magazine. s.60-63.
  • Gwilt, A., & Rissanen, T. (2011). Shaping Sustainable Fashion Changing the Way We Make and Use Clothes. (A. Gwilt, & T. Rissanen, Eds.) London: Earthscan.
  • Gwilt, A. (2011). Produing Sustainable Fashion: The Points for Positive Intervention by the Fashion Designer. In T. R. Alison Gwilt, & T. R. Alison Gwilt (Ed.), Shaping Sustainable Fashion Changing the Eay We Make and Use Clothes (59-74). London: Earthscan.
  • Herdman, E.A., (2006). Derleme Makale yazımında, Konferans ve Bildiri Sunumu Hazırlamada Pratik Bilgiler. (Çev. Dörtbudak, Z) Hemşirelikte Eğitim ve Araştırma Dergisi, 3 (1) 2-4.
  • Mclennan, J. F. (2004). The Philosphy of the Sustainable Design. Canada: Ecotone Design Publishing Company.
  • Major, J. S., & Teng, Y. (2003). Yeohlee: Work. Matreial Arhitecture. Mulgrave: Peleus Press.
  • McDougall, F., White, P., Franke, M., & Hindle, P. (2001). Integrated Solid Waste Management: a Life Cycle Inventory (Second Edition ed.). Blackwell Publishing.
  • McDonough, W., & Braungart, M. (2002). Remaking the Way We Make Things Cradle to Cradle. New York: North Point Press .
  • McQuillan, H. (2011). Zero-Waste Design Practice: Strategies and Risk Taking for Garment Design. In T. R. Alison Gwilt, & T. R. Alison Gwilt (Ed.), Shaping Sustainable Fashion Changing the Way We Make and Use Clothes (83-98). London: Earthscan.
  • McQuillan, H. (2011, March-April). TWINSET: Embedded Zero Waste. 13,11, 2016, HOLLY MCQUILLAN designer and researcher: https://hollymcquillan.com/design-practice/twinset-embedded-zero-waste/
  • McQuillan, H. (2012). ZWPC Workshops. Nisan 5, 2021 tarihinde HOLLY MCQUILLAN designer and researcher: https://hollymcquillan.com/zwpc-workshops/ adresinden alındı.
  • McQuillan, H. (2019). Zero Waste Design Thinking. Licentiate thesis. University of Boras Studies in Artistic Research No: 29. Edt. Lars Hallnas . Boras, İsveç.
  • Niinimaki, K. (2013). Sustainable Fashion: New Approaches. In K. Niinimaki, & K. Niinimaki (Ed.), Tenents of Sustainable Fashion (13). Helsinki, Finland: Aalto University.
  • Rissanen, T. (2008). Creating Fashion without the Creation of Fabric Waste. In J. H. Connie Ulasewicz (Ed.), Sustainable Fashion: Why Now? A conversation exploring issues, practices, and possibilities (184-206). New York: Fairchild Books.
  • Rissanen, T. (2011). Designing Endurance. In T. R. Alison Gwilt, Shaping Sustainable Fashion Changing the Way We Make and Use Clothes (127-138). London, United Kingdom: Earthscan.
  • Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2015). Zero Waste Fashion Design. London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchild Books, Bloomsbury Publishing.
  • Robert, J. (2011). Yield. April 15, 2017 tarihinde The Dowse Art Museum: New Zealand http://dowse.org.nz/exhibitions/detail/yield adresinden alındı.
  • Robert, J. (2013, August). Free Cutting.
  • Singer, R. (2010). Sew Eco: Sewing sustainable and re-used materials. London: A&C Black.
  • Waste & Resources Action Programme. (2013). Valuing Our Clothes The true cost of how we design, use and dispose of clothing in the Uk. United Kingdom: Waste & Resources Action Programme.
  • WFTO (2013, 9). 10 PRINCIPLES OF FAIR TRADE. (World Fair Trade Organization) 5 3, 2016 tarihinde www.wfto.com: http://www.wfto.com/fair-trade/10-principles-fair-trade adresinden alındı.
  • Williams, D. E. (2007). Sustainable Design Ecology, Architecture, and Planning . United States of America: John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
  • Yeşilpınar, S., & Aytaç, V. (2009). An Approach Aimed at Fabric Consumption in T-shirt Production. Textile Research Journal, 5(79) 461-467.
  • Görsel 1. Ecochic Design Award. (2015). Sourcing Textile Waste. Retrieved 05 30, 2016, from Ecochic Design Award: http://www.ecochicdesignaward.com/wp content/blogs.dir/3/files/2013/04/LEARN2014_Sourcing_ENG-07.pdf
  • Enes, E. (2019). Adaptation of Zero-Waste Pattern Design Method to Fashion Industry with the Case of Turkey, Yayınlanmamış Doktora Tezi, İzmir Ekonomi Üniversitesi, İzmir.
  • Görsel 2. Optitex North America. (2015). Marker.Erişim tarihi: 06 10, 2017, Optitex: http://www.optitex.com/en/Marker-Making-Automated-software
  • Görsel 3. Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2015). Zero Waste Fashion Design. London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchil Books, Bloomsbury Publishing. s.44
  • Görsel 4. Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2015). Zero Waste Fashion Design. London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchil Books, Bloomsbury Publishing. s.86
  • Görsel 5. Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2015). Zero Waste Fashion Design. London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchil Books, Bloomsbury Publishing. s.106-107
  • Görsel 6. Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2015). Zero Waste Fashion Design. London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchil Books, Bloomsbury Publishing. s.78-79
  • Görsel 7. Robert, J. (2011). Yield. April 15, 2017 tarihinde The Dowse Art Museum: New Zealand http://dowse.org.nz/exhibitions/detail/yield adresinden alındı.
  • Görsel 8. Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2015). Zero Waste Fashion Design. London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchil Books, Bloomsbury Publishing. s.67

Sıfır Atık Moda Tasarımı ve Yapboz, Mozaik ve Çıkarma Kesim Yöntemlerinin İncelenmesi

Year 2021, Volume: 2 Issue: 2, 116 - 128, 25.06.2021

Abstract

Moda döngüsünün hız kazanması, bu döngünün çevreye verdiği zararı da artmıştır. Bu nedenle, moda üretiminin neden olduğu kumaş kesim atığını azaltmaya yönelik bir çözüm önerisi olarak sıfır atık moda tasarım yöntemi konusu ele alınmıştır. Bu çalışmanın amacı sıfır atık moda tasarımının incelemesi, literatürde en çok yer alan yöntemlerle incelenmesi ve geleneksel moda endüstrisi gözünden sürecin ele alınarak analiz edilmesidir.
Bu çalışmada, atığın oluşumunu engelleyecek bir tasarım yöntemi olan sıfır atık moda tasarımı, sıfır atık moda yöntemini kullanan moda tasarımcıları ve başvurdukları teknikler ile birlikte incelenmiştir. Sıfır atık moda tasarımı, üç boyutlu giysi tasarımını oluştururken iki boyutlu kalıp tasarımının senkronize bir şekilde planlanması ile giysi tasarlanırken kalıp parçaları arasındaki kumaş firelerinin yok edilmesi ile mümkündür. Sıfır atık moda tasarım yöntemleri olan yap-boz, mozaik ve çıkarma kesim (Jigsaw puzzle, tesellation ve sub-cut) yöntemleri bu yöntemlerin geliştirilmesinde etkin olan tasarımcılar Timo Rissanen, Holly McQuillan ve Julian Robert’ın tasarım giysileri ile birlikte ele alınmıştır. Sonuç olarak, sıfır atık moda tasarım yöntemleri giysi tasarım aşamasında atığın oluşumunu engellemektedir.

References

  • Aakko, M., & Niinimaki, K. (2013). 0% Waste, 100% Aesthetics. 10th European Academy of Design Conference - Crafting the Future. Gotenburg: Gothenburg University, School of Design and Crafts.
  • Abernathy, F. H., Dunlop, J. T., Hammond, J. H., & Weil, D. (1999). A stitch in time. Lean retailing and the transformation of manufacturing - Lessons from the apparel and textile industries. New York & Oxford: Oxford University Press.
  • Balcı, A. (2011). Sosyal Bilimlerde Araştırma Yöntem, Teknik ve İlkeler. Pegem Akademi. Ankara.
  • Cooklin, G. (1997). Garment Technology for Fashion Designers. Oxford: Blackwellsciences.
  • Ecochic Design Award. (2015). Sourcing Textile Waste. 05 30, 2021 http://www.ecochicdesignaward.com/wpcontent/blogs.dir/3/files/2013/04/LEARN2014_Sourcing_ENG-07.pdf
  • Ecochic Design Award. (2015). Sourcing Textile Waste. Retrieved 05 30, 2015, from Ecochic Design Award: http://www.ecochicdesignaward.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/3/files/2013/04/LEARN2014_Sourcing_ENG-07.pdf
  • Enes, E. (2019). Adaptation of Zero-waste Pattern Design Method to Fashion Industry with the Case of Turkey, Doktora tezi. İzmir: İzmir Ekonomi Üniversitesi.
  • Enes, E., Kipoz, Ş. (2019) Turkey Fashion Industry’s Cut-and-Sew Waste Problem and Its Waste Management Strategies, Tekstil ve Mühendis, 26: 113, 97-103.
  • Ericson, S. (2010, June/July). No Waste Allowed. Threads Magazine. s.60-63.
  • Gwilt, A., & Rissanen, T. (2011). Shaping Sustainable Fashion Changing the Way We Make and Use Clothes. (A. Gwilt, & T. Rissanen, Eds.) London: Earthscan.
  • Gwilt, A. (2011). Produing Sustainable Fashion: The Points for Positive Intervention by the Fashion Designer. In T. R. Alison Gwilt, & T. R. Alison Gwilt (Ed.), Shaping Sustainable Fashion Changing the Eay We Make and Use Clothes (59-74). London: Earthscan.
  • Herdman, E.A., (2006). Derleme Makale yazımında, Konferans ve Bildiri Sunumu Hazırlamada Pratik Bilgiler. (Çev. Dörtbudak, Z) Hemşirelikte Eğitim ve Araştırma Dergisi, 3 (1) 2-4.
  • Mclennan, J. F. (2004). The Philosphy of the Sustainable Design. Canada: Ecotone Design Publishing Company.
  • Major, J. S., & Teng, Y. (2003). Yeohlee: Work. Matreial Arhitecture. Mulgrave: Peleus Press.
  • McDougall, F., White, P., Franke, M., & Hindle, P. (2001). Integrated Solid Waste Management: a Life Cycle Inventory (Second Edition ed.). Blackwell Publishing.
  • McDonough, W., & Braungart, M. (2002). Remaking the Way We Make Things Cradle to Cradle. New York: North Point Press .
  • McQuillan, H. (2011). Zero-Waste Design Practice: Strategies and Risk Taking for Garment Design. In T. R. Alison Gwilt, & T. R. Alison Gwilt (Ed.), Shaping Sustainable Fashion Changing the Way We Make and Use Clothes (83-98). London: Earthscan.
  • McQuillan, H. (2011, March-April). TWINSET: Embedded Zero Waste. 13,11, 2016, HOLLY MCQUILLAN designer and researcher: https://hollymcquillan.com/design-practice/twinset-embedded-zero-waste/
  • McQuillan, H. (2012). ZWPC Workshops. Nisan 5, 2021 tarihinde HOLLY MCQUILLAN designer and researcher: https://hollymcquillan.com/zwpc-workshops/ adresinden alındı.
  • McQuillan, H. (2019). Zero Waste Design Thinking. Licentiate thesis. University of Boras Studies in Artistic Research No: 29. Edt. Lars Hallnas . Boras, İsveç.
  • Niinimaki, K. (2013). Sustainable Fashion: New Approaches. In K. Niinimaki, & K. Niinimaki (Ed.), Tenents of Sustainable Fashion (13). Helsinki, Finland: Aalto University.
  • Rissanen, T. (2008). Creating Fashion without the Creation of Fabric Waste. In J. H. Connie Ulasewicz (Ed.), Sustainable Fashion: Why Now? A conversation exploring issues, practices, and possibilities (184-206). New York: Fairchild Books.
  • Rissanen, T. (2011). Designing Endurance. In T. R. Alison Gwilt, Shaping Sustainable Fashion Changing the Way We Make and Use Clothes (127-138). London, United Kingdom: Earthscan.
  • Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2015). Zero Waste Fashion Design. London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchild Books, Bloomsbury Publishing.
  • Robert, J. (2011). Yield. April 15, 2017 tarihinde The Dowse Art Museum: New Zealand http://dowse.org.nz/exhibitions/detail/yield adresinden alındı.
  • Robert, J. (2013, August). Free Cutting.
  • Singer, R. (2010). Sew Eco: Sewing sustainable and re-used materials. London: A&C Black.
  • Waste & Resources Action Programme. (2013). Valuing Our Clothes The true cost of how we design, use and dispose of clothing in the Uk. United Kingdom: Waste & Resources Action Programme.
  • WFTO (2013, 9). 10 PRINCIPLES OF FAIR TRADE. (World Fair Trade Organization) 5 3, 2016 tarihinde www.wfto.com: http://www.wfto.com/fair-trade/10-principles-fair-trade adresinden alındı.
  • Williams, D. E. (2007). Sustainable Design Ecology, Architecture, and Planning . United States of America: John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
  • Yeşilpınar, S., & Aytaç, V. (2009). An Approach Aimed at Fabric Consumption in T-shirt Production. Textile Research Journal, 5(79) 461-467.
  • Görsel 1. Ecochic Design Award. (2015). Sourcing Textile Waste. Retrieved 05 30, 2016, from Ecochic Design Award: http://www.ecochicdesignaward.com/wp content/blogs.dir/3/files/2013/04/LEARN2014_Sourcing_ENG-07.pdf
  • Enes, E. (2019). Adaptation of Zero-Waste Pattern Design Method to Fashion Industry with the Case of Turkey, Yayınlanmamış Doktora Tezi, İzmir Ekonomi Üniversitesi, İzmir.
  • Görsel 2. Optitex North America. (2015). Marker.Erişim tarihi: 06 10, 2017, Optitex: http://www.optitex.com/en/Marker-Making-Automated-software
  • Görsel 3. Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2015). Zero Waste Fashion Design. London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchil Books, Bloomsbury Publishing. s.44
  • Görsel 4. Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2015). Zero Waste Fashion Design. London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchil Books, Bloomsbury Publishing. s.86
  • Görsel 5. Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2015). Zero Waste Fashion Design. London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchil Books, Bloomsbury Publishing. s.106-107
  • Görsel 6. Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2015). Zero Waste Fashion Design. London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchil Books, Bloomsbury Publishing. s.78-79
  • Görsel 7. Robert, J. (2011). Yield. April 15, 2017 tarihinde The Dowse Art Museum: New Zealand http://dowse.org.nz/exhibitions/detail/yield adresinden alındı.
  • Görsel 8. Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2015). Zero Waste Fashion Design. London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchil Books, Bloomsbury Publishing. s.67
There are 40 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language Turkish
Journal Section Research Articles
Authors

Esra Enes 0000-0001-5411-2989

Publication Date June 25, 2021
Submission Date May 24, 2021
Published in Issue Year 2021 Volume: 2 Issue: 2

Cite

APA Enes, E. (2021). Sıfır Atık Moda Tasarımı ve Yapboz, Mozaik ve Çıkarma Kesim Yöntemlerinin İncelenmesi. STAR Sanat Ve Tasarım Araştırmaları Dergisi, 2(2), 116-128.