METAL KAPLI HİBRİD İPLİK İÇEREN DOKUMA KUMAŞLARIN DÖKÜMLÜLÜK, EĞİLME VE ŞEKİL VERİLEBİLME ÖZELLİKLERİNİN İNCELENMESİ

Year 2015, Volume: 25 Issue: 1, 47 - 53, 01.06.2015

Nazan Erdumlu

Abstract

Metal lif ya da filament içeren ipliklerden oluşan yeni tekstil yapıları fonksiyonellik açısından değerlendirilmiş olmakla birlikte giysi üretiminde kullanılabilirlikleri açısından incelenmemiştir. Bu çalışmada, bu yeni yapılar, kumaşın beden şekline göre dikilebilme ve vücuda uygunluğu açısından değerlendirilmiştir. Bu amaçla, metal kaplı hibrid iplikler kullanılarak farklı örgü tiplerinde dokunan kumaşların eğilme rijitliği, şekil verilebilirlik ve dökümlülük katsayıları ölçülmüş ve metal kaplı hibrid iplik içermeyen dokuma kumaşlar ile karşılaştırılmıştır. Ölçülen bu parametrelere ait sonuçlar ve bu parametreler arasındaki ilişkiler istatistiksel olarak değerlendirilmiş ve söz konusu parametrelerin dikilebilme ve vücuda uygunluk üzerideki etkileri açıklanmıştır. Elde edilen sonuçlar, bu tip yapıların giysinin bütününde kullanılmasından ziyade bir katman olarak giysi yapısına katıldığında dikilebilirlik ve vücuda uygunluk açısından daha iyi sonuçlar vereceğini kantitatif olarak doğrulamıştır

Keywords

Pamuk ipliği, hibrid iplik, metal tel, dokuma kumaş, dökümlülük katsayısı, eğilme rijitliği, şekil verilebilirlik, dikilebilirlik, vücuda uygunluk

EVALUATION OF DRAPE, BENDING AND FORMABILITY OF WOVEN FABRICS MADE FROM METAL COVERED HYBRID YARNS

Abstract

The novel textile structures including yarns with metal fibres or filaments have been investigated in terms of functionality, but not in terms of their ability to be manufactured into a garment. In this study, these novel structures were evaluated from the point of view of tailorability and fit. For this purpose, bending rigidity, formability and drape coefficient of woven fabrics produced from metal covered hybrid yarns in different weaves were measured and compared with the fabrics woven without metal wire. The results of these parameters and their relationships were assessed statistically with the explanations of their influence on tailorability and fit. The results confirmed quantitatively that these structures could provide better fit and tailorability when they were applied as a layer into a garment rather than being used in the whole garment production

Keywords

Cotton yarn, hybrid yarn, metal wire, woven fabric, drape coefficient, bending rigidity, formability, tailorability, fit

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