A Study on Dimensional Changes in the Fused Shirt Components

Year 2023, Volume: 33 Issue: 2, 105 - 113, 30.06.2023

Renjini Girija Sudhakar Rajagopal

https://doi.org/10.32710/tekstilvekonfeksiyon.1066771

Abstract

Shirt manufacturing involves fusing the cut parts with an interlining. Shrinkage in these components leads to puckering, mismatched design between fused and non-fused components, and increased fabric consumption. The study aims to explain the effect of ten factors – fabric (content, weight, weave structure, cover, and finish), interlining (weight, finish), fusing time, temperature and pressure – on thermal and relaxation shrinkage of the fused plackets. The results show that the thermal shrinkage in the placket is influenced by three factors (interlining finish, weight and temperature), and relaxation shrinkage of placket samples is influenced by three factors (fabric fibre content, temperature and pressure). The lower weight interlining with a raised finish used for shirt plackets are found to shrink when fused. After washing, the cotton placket shrunk more than the polycotton plackets. The optimised process condition for a specific fabric and interlining is proposed in the study.

Keywords

Design of experiment, Fused fabric composites, Interlining, Placket, Thermal shrinkage, Relaxation shrinkage

Supporting Institution

Bangalore University

Project Number

-

Thanks

Thanking the Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon for the consideration.. No funding , conflict of interest to report for this paper

References

• Reference1 Mahar T, Postle R. 1989. Measuring and interpreting low-stress fabric mechanical and surface properties: Part IV: subjective evaluation of fabric handle. Textile Research Journal, 59(12), 721-733.
• Reference2 Cawood M P. 1980. Textiles: Some technical information and data VI: fusing. CSIR.
• Reference3 Glawe A, Reuscher R, Koppe R, Kolbusch T. 2003. Hot-Melt Application for Functional Compounds on Technical Textiles. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 33(2), 85-92.
• Reference4 Vilumsone-Nemes I. 2018. Automation in spreading and cutting. In R Nayak, R Padhye (Eds.), Automation in garment manufacturing. Woodhead Publishing, 139-164.
• Reference5 Topalbekiroğlu M, Kaynak HK. 2005. The effect of weave type on dimensional stability of woven fabrics. . International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 20(5), 281.
• Reference6 Lindberg J. 1961. Dimensional Changes in Multicomponent Systems of Fabrics: A Theoretical Study. Textile Research Journal, 31(7), 664-669.
• Reference7 Tarafder N, Banerjee S, Ala A, Panja S K, Ghosh U. 2007. Comparative study on physical testing of readymade shirts for quality standards. Man-Made Textiles in India. 50 (2), 63-68.
• Reference8 Alime Aslı İlleez E S. 2017. Seam Properties and Sewability of Crease Resistant Shirt Fabrics. AATCC journal of research, 4(1), 28.
• Reference9 Glock. 2005. Apparel Manufacturing: Sewn Product Analysis. Pearson Education India.
• Reference10 Aaron KP, Krishnaraj K, Mohan R, Chandrasekaran B. 2014. Compatibility of fusible interlinings with apparel leathers, International Journal of Textile and Fashion Technology, 4(5), 27-36.
• Reference11 Jevsnik S, Gersak J. 1998. Objective evaluation and prediction of properties of a fused panel. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 10(3/4), 252-262.
• Reference12 Fan J, Leeuwner W. 1997. The causes and prevention of rippling or localised delamination in fused garment parts. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 9(3), 228-235.
• Reference13 Shishoo R, Klevmar P H, Cednas M, Oloffson B. 1971. Multilayer Textile Structures- Relationship between the properties of a textile composite and its components. Textile Research Journal, 41(8), 669-679.
• Reference14 Kumar RS, Sundaresan S. 2013. Mechanical finishing techniques for technical textiles. In M Gulrajani (Ed). Advances in the dyeing and finishing of technical textiles. Woodhead Publishing.135-153
• Reference15 Montgomery D C. 2013. Design and Analysis of Experiments. John Wiley.
• Reference16 Cooklin G. 1990. Fusing Technology. Hyporion Books.
• Reference17 Joseph M. 1972. Textile Science, Holt, Rinehart & Winston, San Diego, CA.
• Reference18 Ravandi S H, Valizadeh M. 2011. Properties of fibers and fabrics that contribute to human comfort. In Guowen Song (Ed). Improving comfort in clothing. Woodhead Publishing, 61-78.