Avrupa Tekstil Baskıcılığının Gelişiminde Türk Kırmızısı'nın Rolü

Leyla Yıldırım

doi:10.17484/yedi.50579

-

Yıl 2014, Sayı: 12, 11 - 22, 01.07.2014

Leyla Yıldırım

https://doi.org/10.17484/yedi.50579

Cited By: 4

Öz

Although synthestic dyes were first produced in 1856, the use of natural dyes did not completely end up in textile business. As the dye industry progressed, the trust in recipes of dyeing which were based on years of experience, caused natural dyes to be used for a time. What lies behind this trust is the time, money and effort spent to produce dyes. The recipe of Turkey red occupied an important place among these and any serious effort was exerted to produce it. Such exertions enabled chemistry and textile sectors to progress with the help of significant knowledge in European textile dyeing and printing, and became the impulsive power of Industrial Revolution. This paper deals with efforts and attempts in the production of Turkey red and its contribution to socio-economic transition as a colour

Anahtar Kelimeler

Textile Design, Textile Printing, Turkey Red, Madder, Levant

Kaynakça

Aikin, J. (1795). A Description of The Country from Thirty to Forty Miles Round Manchester, London: David & Charles Publishers.
Abdel-Kareem, Omar (2012). “History of Dyes Used in Different Historical Periods of Egypt”, Research Journal of Textile and Apparel (16/4): 79-92.
Brunello, Franco (1973). The Art of Dyeing in The History of Mankind, ed. Neri Pozza, translation: Bernard Hickey, Vicenza: Officine Grafiche STA.
Chapman S. et Chassagne, S. (1981). European Textile Printers in the Eighteenth Century, A Study of Peel and Oberkampf, London: Heinemann.
Delamare, François ve Guineau, Bernard (2007). Renkler ve Malzemeleri, çev: Orçun Türkay, İstanbul: YKM Yayınları.
Driessen, L. A. (1944). “Calico Printing and The Cotton Industry in Holland”, Ciba Review (48): 1749.
Floud, Peter C. (1960). “The Origins of English Calico Printing”, Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists (86): 275–81.
Fukasawa, Katsumi (1987). Toilerie et Commerce du Levant: d’Alep a` Marseille, Paris: Presses du CNRS.
Galan , A. Nieto (2001). “Colouring Textiles - A History of Natural Dyestuffs in Industrial Europe”, Boston Studies in the Philosophy of Science, Boston: Springer, 217.
Goffer, Z. (1980). Archaeological Chemistry, A Source Book on the Applications of Chemistry to Archaeology, New York: John Wiley & Sons.
İnalcık, Halil (2008). Türkiye Tekstil Tarihi, İstanbul: İş Bankası Yayınları.
İşmal, Ş. Özlenen Erdem (2011). “Boyarmadde Endüstrisinin Öncüsü: Bir Bilim Adamı ve Entelektüel olarak Sir William Henry Perkin”, Yedi, Sanat ve Tasarım Dergisi (6): 23-30.
Karadağ, Recep (2007). Doğal Boyamacılık, Ankara: T.C. Kültür ve Turizm Bakanlığı Yayınları.
Karadağ Recep ve Dölen, Emre (2007). “Re-Examınation of Turkey Red, Annali di Chimica”, Società Chimica Italiana (97): 583- 589.
Kirby, Jo. (1987). “The Preparation of Early Lake Pigments: A Survey”, Dyes on Historical and Archaeological Textiles (6): 12–18.
Koren, Z.C. (1993). The Colors and Dyes on Ancient Textiles in Israel, Colors from Nature: Natural Colors in Ancient Times, ed. Sorek, C. and Ayalon, E., Tel Aviv, Israel: Eretz-Israel Museum.
Masson, P. (1896). Histoire du Commerce Français dans le Levant au XVIIe Siècle, Paris.
Meller, Susan ve Elffers, Joost (1991). Textile Designs, New York: Harry N. Abrams,
Inc.Musson, A. E. ve Robinson, Eric (1969). Chemical Developments in Dyeing, in
Science and Technology in the Industrial Revolution, London: University of Manchester.
Pérez, Liliane Hilaire (2000). L’Invention Téchnique au Siècle des Lumières, Paris: Albin Michel.
Pérez, Liliane Hilaire (2002). “Cultures Techniques et Pratiques de l’Échange”, Entre Lyon et le Levant: Inventions et Réseaux au Contemporaine, (49): 1-105. d’Histoire Moderne et
Pérez, Liliane Hilaire and Verna, Catherine (2006). “Dissemination of Technical Knowledge in The Middle Ages and The Early Modern Era New Approaches and Methodological Issues”, Technology and Culture, (47): 539-565.
Persoz, J. (1846). Traité Théorique et Pratique de L’Impression des Tissus, ed.Victor Masson, Paris: Victor Masson.
Riello, Giorgio (2010). “Asian Knowledge and The development of Calico Printing in Europe in The Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries”, Journal of Global History (5): 1-28.
Raveux, Olivier (2004). “Espaces et Technologies dans la France Méridionale d’Ancien Régime: l’Example de l’Indiennage Marseillais (1648–1793)”, Annales du Midi (116): 70-155.
Raveux, Olivier (2008). “Du Commerce a` la Production: l’Indiennage Européen et l’Acquisition des Téchniques Asiatiques au XVIIe Siècle”, Féerie Indienne: des Rivages de l’Inde au Royaume de France, Mulhouse: Musée de l’Impression sur Étoffes.
Robinson, Stuart (1969). A History of Printed Textiles, London: Studio Vista.
Schwartz, P. R. (1956). “French Documents on Indian Cotton Painting 1: The Beaulieu ms, c. 1734”, Journal of Indian Textile History (2): 5-23
Souza, George Bryan (2004). “Dyeing Red: S.E. Asian Sappanwood in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth centuries”, Oriente (8): 40–58.
Travis, Anthony S. (1999). Heinrich Caro, Chemist and Calico Printer, and the Changeover from Natural to Artificial Dyes, Natural Dyestuffs and Industrial Culture in Europe.
Turnbull, Geoffrey (1947). A History of The Calico Printing Industry of Great Britain, Altrincham, Ches.: John Sherratt and Son
Wadsworth, A. P. and Mann, Julia de Lacy (1932). The Cotton Trade and Manchester University Press. 1600–1780, Manchester:
Yılmazçelik, İbrahim (1985). XIX. Yüzyılın İlk Yarısında Diyarbakır (1790–1840), Ankara. İnternet Kaynakları
(Colorantshistory, 2013) Howcraft, Deborah, Paterson, Carole and Travis, Anthony S. Turkey Red Dyeing in Blackley, A Chapter in the History of Dyeing”, excerpt from Pro Memoria-Turkey Red Dyeing and Blackley, Wilfred Herbert TurkeyRed.html, (10.09.2013)
(Colouringthenation, 2013) “Colouring the Nation,Turkey Red’ and Other Decorative Textiles in Scotland’s Culture and Global Impact, 1800 to Present, Turkey Red and the Vale of Leven” http://colouringthenation.wordpress.com/turkey-red-in- scotland/ (21.10.2013)
Druding, Susan C. (2012). Dye History from 2600 BC to the 20th Ce n t u r y. h t t p : / /w w w. s t raw. co m /s i g /d ye h i s t . h t m l (03.02.2013)
Eddy, Celia (2012). “The History of Turkey Red” http://bqsg. quiltersguild.org.uk/blog/the-history-of-turkey-red 28.10.2013
Faroqhi, Suraiya (2005). “Ludwig Maximilians University Ottoman Cotton Textiles, 1500 to 1800”, GEHN Conference – University e c o n o m i c H i s t o r y/ R e s e a r c h /G E H N /G E H N P D F/ PaduaFaroqhiPaper.pdf, 17-19 (06.09.2013)
(Feastbowl.wordpress) Turkey Red: A Study in Scarlet http://feastbowl.wordpress.com/category/projects/ turkey-red/ (22.10.2013)
Kirby, Jo ve Whit, Raymond (1996). The Identification of Red Lake Pigment Dyestuffs and a Discussion of their Use, London: National Gallery Technical Bulletin (17): 56-80 http://www. nationalgallery.org.uk/upload/pdf/kirby_white1996.pdf (01.09.2013)
Kirby, Jo, Spring, Marika, Higgitt, Catherine (2007). “The Technology Eighteenth- and Nineteenth Century-Red Lake Pigment”, National Galery Tecnical Bulletin (28): 69-95. http://www. n at i o n a l g a l l e r y. o rg . u k /u p l o a d /p d f/ k i r by _ s p r i n g _ higgitt2007.pdf (19.09.2013)
Lowengard, Sarah ( 2006). The Creation of Color in 18th-Century Europe, Industry and Ideas Turkey Red, New York: Columbia University gutenberg-e.org/lowengard/C_Chap36.html, Gutenberg-e. http://www. (12.09.2013)
(Madder, 2013) Madder, http://webpages.charter.net/siospins/ pubs/Madder.pdf (06.09.2013)
(National Museums Scotland, nms.ac.uk, 2013a) National Museums Scotland, About Colouring the Nation, http://www.nms. a c . u k /t u r key _ re d /co l o u r i n g _ t h e _ n at i o n /a b o u t _ colouring_the_nation.aspx (17.10.2013)
(National Museums Scotland, nms.ac.uk, 2013b) National Museum of Scotland, Printed cottons in Scotland, http://www.nms. ac.uk/turkey_red/colouring_the_nation/research/ turkey_red_in_scotland/printed_cottons_in_scotland. aspx (06.09.2013)
(National Museums Scotland, nms.ac.uk, 2013c) National Museums Scotland, The Turkey red process, http://www.nms.ac.uk/ turkey_red/colouring_the_nation/research/dyeing_and_ printing_techniques/the_turkey_red_process.aspx (22.10.2013)
(National Museums Scotland, nms.ac.uk, 2013d) National Museum of Scotland, Styles and patterns, http://www.nms.ac.uk/ turkey_red/colouring_the_nation/research/styles_and_ patterns.aspx, (06.09.2013)
Prance, Ghillean and Nesbitt, Mark (2005). The Cultural History of Plants, New York: Routledge. http://permaculteur. free.fr/ecoanarchisme/Cultural%20History%20of%20 Plants%200415927463red.pdf p.305-306 (12.05.2013)
Raveux, Olivier (2008). “À la Façon du Levant et de Perse: Marseille et la Naissance de l’Indiennage Européen (1648-1689)”, Rives org/1303 p. 37-51 (7.09.2013)
http://rives.revues.
Sardar, Marika (2012). “Indian Textiles: Trade and Production” http:// www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/intx/hd_intx.htm . 04.01.2014)
Shwartz, P. R. (1969). “Printing on Cotton at Ahmedabad, India in 1678”, Translation: Margaret Hall, Ahmedabad: Calico Museum of Textiles, India, Museum Monograph No.1. http:// www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/monographs/ spr_prnt.pdf (20.11.2013)
(Silk-Road)http://www.silk-road.com/artl/marcopolo.shtml 04.01.2014 Travis, Anthony S. (1994). Revolutionary Colour Chemistry & Industry, (3) 28. http:// www.colorantshistory.org/MadderRed.html (15.09.2013) (West
dunbarton) The River Leven Heritage Trail, http://www.west- dunbar ton.gov.uk/media /261907 7/river-leven.pdf, (20.1.2013)
Winsor and Newton (2003). “The History and Production of Rose Madder and Alizarin Pigments” http://www.winsornewton. com/resource-centre/product-articles/rose-madder- andalizarin (06.09.2013) Görsel Kaynak
Resim Türk Kırmızısı üreten firmaların kumaşlar için kullandığı etiket ö r n e k l e r i . ( h t t p : / /w w w.w e s t - d u n b a r t o n . g o v. u k / media/2619077/river-leven.pdf, (20.1.2013)

Avrupa Tekstil Baskıcılığının Gelişiminde Türk Kırmızısı'nın Rolü

Yıl 2014, Sayı: 12, 11 - 22, 01.07.2014

Leyla Yıldırım

https://doi.org/10.17484/yedi.50579

Cited By: 4

Öz

1856 yılında ilk sentetik boyarmadde elde edilmiş olmasına rağmen tekstil sektöründe doğal boyaların kullanımı tamamen
bitmemiştir. Boya sanayisi gelişirken yılların deneyimine dayalı boyama reçetelerine duyulan güven, doğal boyaların kullanımının
bir süre daha devam etmesine neden olmuştur. Bu güvenin ardında boyaları elde etmek için harcanan zaman, para ve
yoğun emek bulunmaktadır. Türk Kırmızısı reçetesi ise bunlar arasında özel bir yer tutmuş ve elde edilmesi için her çareye
başvurulmuştur. Bu kırmızı rengin peşinde harcanan çabalar, Avrupa'da tekstil boya ve baskıcılığında büyük bir bilgi birikimiyle,
kimya biliminin ve tekstil sektörünün gelişimini sağlamış ve Sanayi Devrimi'nin itici gücünü oluşturmuştur. Bu çalışmada
Türk Kırmızısının elde edilme sürecindeki çabalara ve bir rengin sosyo-ekonomik değişime olan katkılarına değinilecektir.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Kaynakça

Aikin, J. (1795). A Description of The Country from Thirty to Forty Miles Round Manchester, London: David & Charles Publishers.
Abdel-Kareem, Omar (2012). “History of Dyes Used in Different Historical Periods of Egypt”, Research Journal of Textile and Apparel (16/4): 79-92.
Brunello, Franco (1973). The Art of Dyeing in The History of Mankind, ed. Neri Pozza, translation: Bernard Hickey, Vicenza: Officine Grafiche STA.
Chapman S. et Chassagne, S. (1981). European Textile Printers in the Eighteenth Century, A Study of Peel and Oberkampf, London: Heinemann.
Delamare, François ve Guineau, Bernard (2007). Renkler ve Malzemeleri, çev: Orçun Türkay, İstanbul: YKM Yayınları.
Driessen, L. A. (1944). “Calico Printing and The Cotton Industry in Holland”, Ciba Review (48): 1749.
Floud, Peter C. (1960). “The Origins of English Calico Printing”, Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists (86): 275–81.
Fukasawa, Katsumi (1987). Toilerie et Commerce du Levant: d’Alep a` Marseille, Paris: Presses du CNRS.
Galan , A. Nieto (2001). “Colouring Textiles - A History of Natural Dyestuffs in Industrial Europe”, Boston Studies in the Philosophy of Science, Boston: Springer, 217.
Goffer, Z. (1980). Archaeological Chemistry, A Source Book on the Applications of Chemistry to Archaeology, New York: John Wiley & Sons.
İnalcık, Halil (2008). Türkiye Tekstil Tarihi, İstanbul: İş Bankası Yayınları.
İşmal, Ş. Özlenen Erdem (2011). “Boyarmadde Endüstrisinin Öncüsü: Bir Bilim Adamı ve Entelektüel olarak Sir William Henry Perkin”, Yedi, Sanat ve Tasarım Dergisi (6): 23-30.
Karadağ, Recep (2007). Doğal Boyamacılık, Ankara: T.C. Kültür ve Turizm Bakanlığı Yayınları.
Karadağ Recep ve Dölen, Emre (2007). “Re-Examınation of Turkey Red, Annali di Chimica”, Società Chimica Italiana (97): 583- 589.
Kirby, Jo. (1987). “The Preparation of Early Lake Pigments: A Survey”, Dyes on Historical and Archaeological Textiles (6): 12–18.
Koren, Z.C. (1993). The Colors and Dyes on Ancient Textiles in Israel, Colors from Nature: Natural Colors in Ancient Times, ed. Sorek, C. and Ayalon, E., Tel Aviv, Israel: Eretz-Israel Museum.
Masson, P. (1896). Histoire du Commerce Français dans le Levant au XVIIe Siècle, Paris.
Meller, Susan ve Elffers, Joost (1991). Textile Designs, New York: Harry N. Abrams,
Inc.Musson, A. E. ve Robinson, Eric (1969). Chemical Developments in Dyeing, in
Science and Technology in the Industrial Revolution, London: University of Manchester.
Pérez, Liliane Hilaire (2000). L’Invention Téchnique au Siècle des Lumières, Paris: Albin Michel.
Pérez, Liliane Hilaire (2002). “Cultures Techniques et Pratiques de l’Échange”, Entre Lyon et le Levant: Inventions et Réseaux au Contemporaine, (49): 1-105. d’Histoire Moderne et
Pérez, Liliane Hilaire and Verna, Catherine (2006). “Dissemination of Technical Knowledge in The Middle Ages and The Early Modern Era New Approaches and Methodological Issues”, Technology and Culture, (47): 539-565.
Persoz, J. (1846). Traité Théorique et Pratique de L’Impression des Tissus, ed.Victor Masson, Paris: Victor Masson.
Riello, Giorgio (2010). “Asian Knowledge and The development of Calico Printing in Europe in The Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries”, Journal of Global History (5): 1-28.
Raveux, Olivier (2004). “Espaces et Technologies dans la France Méridionale d’Ancien Régime: l’Example de l’Indiennage Marseillais (1648–1793)”, Annales du Midi (116): 70-155.
Raveux, Olivier (2008). “Du Commerce a` la Production: l’Indiennage Européen et l’Acquisition des Téchniques Asiatiques au XVIIe Siècle”, Féerie Indienne: des Rivages de l’Inde au Royaume de France, Mulhouse: Musée de l’Impression sur Étoffes.
Robinson, Stuart (1969). A History of Printed Textiles, London: Studio Vista.
Schwartz, P. R. (1956). “French Documents on Indian Cotton Painting 1: The Beaulieu ms, c. 1734”, Journal of Indian Textile History (2): 5-23
Souza, George Bryan (2004). “Dyeing Red: S.E. Asian Sappanwood in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth centuries”, Oriente (8): 40–58.
Travis, Anthony S. (1999). Heinrich Caro, Chemist and Calico Printer, and the Changeover from Natural to Artificial Dyes, Natural Dyestuffs and Industrial Culture in Europe.
Turnbull, Geoffrey (1947). A History of The Calico Printing Industry of Great Britain, Altrincham, Ches.: John Sherratt and Son
Wadsworth, A. P. and Mann, Julia de Lacy (1932). The Cotton Trade and Manchester University Press. 1600–1780, Manchester:
Yılmazçelik, İbrahim (1985). XIX. Yüzyılın İlk Yarısında Diyarbakır (1790–1840), Ankara. İnternet Kaynakları
(Colorantshistory, 2013) Howcraft, Deborah, Paterson, Carole and Travis, Anthony S. Turkey Red Dyeing in Blackley, A Chapter in the History of Dyeing”, excerpt from Pro Memoria-Turkey Red Dyeing and Blackley, Wilfred Herbert TurkeyRed.html, (10.09.2013)
(Colouringthenation, 2013) “Colouring the Nation,Turkey Red’ and Other Decorative Textiles in Scotland’s Culture and Global Impact, 1800 to Present, Turkey Red and the Vale of Leven” http://colouringthenation.wordpress.com/turkey-red-in- scotland/ (21.10.2013)
Druding, Susan C. (2012). Dye History from 2600 BC to the 20th Ce n t u r y. h t t p : / /w w w. s t raw. co m /s i g /d ye h i s t . h t m l (03.02.2013)
Eddy, Celia (2012). “The History of Turkey Red” http://bqsg. quiltersguild.org.uk/blog/the-history-of-turkey-red 28.10.2013
Faroqhi, Suraiya (2005). “Ludwig Maximilians University Ottoman Cotton Textiles, 1500 to 1800”, GEHN Conference – University e c o n o m i c H i s t o r y/ R e s e a r c h /G E H N /G E H N P D F/ PaduaFaroqhiPaper.pdf, 17-19 (06.09.2013)
(Feastbowl.wordpress) Turkey Red: A Study in Scarlet http://feastbowl.wordpress.com/category/projects/ turkey-red/ (22.10.2013)
Kirby, Jo ve Whit, Raymond (1996). The Identification of Red Lake Pigment Dyestuffs and a Discussion of their Use, London: National Gallery Technical Bulletin (17): 56-80 http://www. nationalgallery.org.uk/upload/pdf/kirby_white1996.pdf (01.09.2013)
Kirby, Jo, Spring, Marika, Higgitt, Catherine (2007). “The Technology Eighteenth- and Nineteenth Century-Red Lake Pigment”, National Galery Tecnical Bulletin (28): 69-95. http://www. n at i o n a l g a l l e r y. o rg . u k /u p l o a d /p d f/ k i r by _ s p r i n g _ higgitt2007.pdf (19.09.2013)
Lowengard, Sarah ( 2006). The Creation of Color in 18th-Century Europe, Industry and Ideas Turkey Red, New York: Columbia University gutenberg-e.org/lowengard/C_Chap36.html, Gutenberg-e. http://www. (12.09.2013)
(Madder, 2013) Madder, http://webpages.charter.net/siospins/ pubs/Madder.pdf (06.09.2013)
(National Museums Scotland, nms.ac.uk, 2013a) National Museums Scotland, About Colouring the Nation, http://www.nms. a c . u k /t u r key _ re d /co l o u r i n g _ t h e _ n at i o n /a b o u t _ colouring_the_nation.aspx (17.10.2013)
(National Museums Scotland, nms.ac.uk, 2013b) National Museum of Scotland, Printed cottons in Scotland, http://www.nms. ac.uk/turkey_red/colouring_the_nation/research/ turkey_red_in_scotland/printed_cottons_in_scotland. aspx (06.09.2013)
(National Museums Scotland, nms.ac.uk, 2013c) National Museums Scotland, The Turkey red process, http://www.nms.ac.uk/ turkey_red/colouring_the_nation/research/dyeing_and_ printing_techniques/the_turkey_red_process.aspx (22.10.2013)
(National Museums Scotland, nms.ac.uk, 2013d) National Museum of Scotland, Styles and patterns, http://www.nms.ac.uk/ turkey_red/colouring_the_nation/research/styles_and_ patterns.aspx, (06.09.2013)
Prance, Ghillean and Nesbitt, Mark (2005). The Cultural History of Plants, New York: Routledge. http://permaculteur. free.fr/ecoanarchisme/Cultural%20History%20of%20 Plants%200415927463red.pdf p.305-306 (12.05.2013)
Raveux, Olivier (2008). “À la Façon du Levant et de Perse: Marseille et la Naissance de l’Indiennage Européen (1648-1689)”, Rives org/1303 p. 37-51 (7.09.2013)
http://rives.revues.
Sardar, Marika (2012). “Indian Textiles: Trade and Production” http:// www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/intx/hd_intx.htm . 04.01.2014)
Shwartz, P. R. (1969). “Printing on Cotton at Ahmedabad, India in 1678”, Translation: Margaret Hall, Ahmedabad: Calico Museum of Textiles, India, Museum Monograph No.1. http:// www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/monographs/ spr_prnt.pdf (20.11.2013)
(Silk-Road)http://www.silk-road.com/artl/marcopolo.shtml 04.01.2014 Travis, Anthony S. (1994). Revolutionary Colour Chemistry & Industry, (3) 28. http:// www.colorantshistory.org/MadderRed.html (15.09.2013) (West
dunbarton) The River Leven Heritage Trail, http://www.west- dunbar ton.gov.uk/media /261907 7/river-leven.pdf, (20.1.2013)
Winsor and Newton (2003). “The History and Production of Rose Madder and Alizarin Pigments” http://www.winsornewton. com/resource-centre/product-articles/rose-madder- andalizarin (06.09.2013) Görsel Kaynak
Resim Türk Kırmızısı üreten firmaların kumaşlar için kullandığı etiket ö r n e k l e r i . ( h t t p : / /w w w.w e s t - d u n b a r t o n . g o v. u k / media/2619077/river-leven.pdf, (20.1.2013)

Toplam 57 adet kaynakça vardır.

Ayrıntılar

Birincil Dil	Türkçe
Bölüm	Araştırma Makaleler
Yazarlar	Leyla Yıldırım Bu kişi benim
Yayımlanma Tarihi	1 Temmuz 2014
Gönderilme Tarihi	16 Ocak 2015
Yayımlandığı Sayı	Yıl 2014 Sayı: 12

Kaynak Göster

APA	Yıldırım, L. (2014). Avrupa Tekstil Baskıcılığının Gelişiminde Türk Kırmızısı’nın Rolü. Yedi(12), 11-22. https://doi.org/10.17484/yedi.50579