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Concepts And Terms The Techniques Dyeing And Printing On Different Culture

Year 2019, Issue: 21, 93 - 103, 28.01.2019
https://doi.org/10.17484/yedi.484984

Abstract

The interaction of textile art with plastic arts has brought new expansions to the agenda since the 1960s. These new approaches cover a broad perspective from materials to form and from new technologies to traditional techniques. Within the scope of these studies, resist dyeing techniques have gained popularity and have made important contributions to the development of textile art with different interpretations. However, due to the application of these techniques in a wide geography and cultural interactions since ancient times, different terms and concepts have emerged. In this study, resist dye techniques were collected under three main headings as physical, mechanical and chemical categories. And it is aimed to create a whole set of concepts considering to geographic regions (Far East and Asia, Africa, Europe, America), resist application stages (yarn, fabric, product), paint application techniques (brush, immerse), types of fabrics used, reserve materials (thread, bead, pipe, stencil, wax, clay, etc.) the tools used (tijanting, clamp, etc.) 

References

  • Acar, S. (2018). Tekstil Tarihi Ders Notu, Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Güzel Sanatlar Fakültesi, İzmir.
  • Arai, M., Wada, Y. (2010). “Beni itajime: carved board clamp resist dyeing in red” Textile Society of America Symposium.
  • Belfer, N. (1992). Batik and Tie Dye Techniques. New York: Dover Publication Inc.
  • Crill, Rosemary (1998). Indian Ikat Textiles. L.: Victoria and Albert Publications, 1998.
  • Dusenbury, Mary M. (2008). “atlas today: patterns of production, bazaars and bloomingdales Uzbekistan and Xinjiang, China”, Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
  • Erdem İşmal, Ö., Yıldırım, L. (2012). Tekstil Baskıcılığının Tarihçesi. İzmir : Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Yayınları, Güzel Sanatlar Fakültesi Yayın No:1.
  • Foulds, J. (1995). Dyeing and Printing: A Handbook. Intermediate Technology Publications.
  • Gaspa, S., Michel, C., Nosch, M.-L. (2017) Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD, Lincoln: Zea Books.
  • Gillow, J., Barnard, N. (1993). Traditional Indian Textiles, Thames & Hudson Ltd; Reprint edition.
  • Hann, M. A. (2005). Patterns of Culture Techniques of Decoration and Coloration. Leeds: The University of Leeds International Textiles Archive.
  • Hume, S. (2013). University of Kent State. https://www.kent.edu/museum/resist-world-resist-dye-techniques (13.12.2017)
  • Moeller, Ann Marie (2008). “Prosperity, longevity, and “happily ever-after”: symbolism and the sophistication of ımplication in japanese e-gasuri(picture ikat) textiles”, Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
  • Murashima, K. (1993). Katazome, Usborne: Lark Books.
  • Stone, C. (2011). The Philippines and Guatemala: a Tale of Three Textiles, Kunstkamera Büyük Peter Antropoloji ve Etnografya Müzesi Elektronik Kütüphanesi, 470-490.
  • Tang, Jinping (2017). “Comparison of patterns in japanese ıkat and chinese li ıkat” Boletín Técnico, Vol.55, Issue 13, 244-250.
  • Thompson, R. (2014). Manufacturing Processes For Textile And Fashion Design Professionals. London: Thames & Hudson.
  • Tsang, K. B. (2005). Touched by Indigo. Canada: Royal Ontario Museum http://eacharya.inflibnet.ac.in/data-server/eacharya-documents/53e0c6cbe413016f2344 36ed_INFIEP_8/85/ET/unit-4%20Lesson%2010.pdf (24.01.2018)
  • Wada, Yoshiko Iwamato (2012). Memory on Cloth: Shibori Now, New York: Kodansha International.
  • Wang, H. (2005). “Exploratory study of the origin of the ancient ıkat dyeing technique and its spread in china”, Journal of the Textile Institute, 105-108.
  • Wells, K. (1997). Fabric Dyeing & Printing. London: Conran Octupus Ltd.
  • Wells, K. (2013). “Invent-reinvent ıtajime' digital created board clamping”, The 2nd International Textiles and Costume Congress

Farklı Kültürlerdeki Rezerve Boya/Baskı Teknikleri Üzerine Kavram ve Terimler

Year 2019, Issue: 21, 93 - 103, 28.01.2019
https://doi.org/10.17484/yedi.484984

Abstract

Tekstil
sanatının plastik sanatlarla olan etkileşimi 1960’lı yıllardan itibaren lif
sanatı kapsamında yeni açılımları gündeme getirmiştir. Bu yeni yaklaşımlar
malzemeden forma, yeni teknolojilerden geleneksel tekniklere kadar geniş bir
perspektifi içinde barındırmaktadır. Bu çalışmalar kapsamında rezerve boyama
teknikleri ise gittikçe popülerlik kazanmış ve değişik yorumlarla tekstil
sanatının gelişimine önemli katkılar sağlamıştır. Ancak bu tekniklerin çok eski
dönemlerden itibaren geniş bir coğrafyada uygulanması ve kültürel
etkileşimlerin olması nedenleriyle farklı terim ve kavramların ortaya çıkışı gündeme
gelmiştir.



Bu
çalışmada; rezerve teknikleri; fiziksel, mekanik ve kimyasal olmak üzere üç ana
başlık altında toplanarak, coğrafi bölgeler (Uzak Doğu ve Asya, Afrika, Avrupa,
Amerika), rezerve uygulama aşamaları (iplik, kumaş, ürün), boya uygulama
teknikleri (fırça, daldırma), kullanılan kumaş türleri, rezerve malzemeleri
(iplik, boncuk, boru, şablon, mum, kil vb.) kullanılan araçlar (Tijanting, klamp
vb) dikkate alınarak bir sınıflandırma yapılmaya çalışılmış ve bir kavramlar
bütünü oluşturulması amaçlanmıştır.

References

  • Acar, S. (2018). Tekstil Tarihi Ders Notu, Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Güzel Sanatlar Fakültesi, İzmir.
  • Arai, M., Wada, Y. (2010). “Beni itajime: carved board clamp resist dyeing in red” Textile Society of America Symposium.
  • Belfer, N. (1992). Batik and Tie Dye Techniques. New York: Dover Publication Inc.
  • Crill, Rosemary (1998). Indian Ikat Textiles. L.: Victoria and Albert Publications, 1998.
  • Dusenbury, Mary M. (2008). “atlas today: patterns of production, bazaars and bloomingdales Uzbekistan and Xinjiang, China”, Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
  • Erdem İşmal, Ö., Yıldırım, L. (2012). Tekstil Baskıcılığının Tarihçesi. İzmir : Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Yayınları, Güzel Sanatlar Fakültesi Yayın No:1.
  • Foulds, J. (1995). Dyeing and Printing: A Handbook. Intermediate Technology Publications.
  • Gaspa, S., Michel, C., Nosch, M.-L. (2017) Textile Terminologies from the Orient to the Mediterranean and Europe, 1000 BC to 1000 AD, Lincoln: Zea Books.
  • Gillow, J., Barnard, N. (1993). Traditional Indian Textiles, Thames & Hudson Ltd; Reprint edition.
  • Hann, M. A. (2005). Patterns of Culture Techniques of Decoration and Coloration. Leeds: The University of Leeds International Textiles Archive.
  • Hume, S. (2013). University of Kent State. https://www.kent.edu/museum/resist-world-resist-dye-techniques (13.12.2017)
  • Moeller, Ann Marie (2008). “Prosperity, longevity, and “happily ever-after”: symbolism and the sophistication of ımplication in japanese e-gasuri(picture ikat) textiles”, Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings
  • Murashima, K. (1993). Katazome, Usborne: Lark Books.
  • Stone, C. (2011). The Philippines and Guatemala: a Tale of Three Textiles, Kunstkamera Büyük Peter Antropoloji ve Etnografya Müzesi Elektronik Kütüphanesi, 470-490.
  • Tang, Jinping (2017). “Comparison of patterns in japanese ıkat and chinese li ıkat” Boletín Técnico, Vol.55, Issue 13, 244-250.
  • Thompson, R. (2014). Manufacturing Processes For Textile And Fashion Design Professionals. London: Thames & Hudson.
  • Tsang, K. B. (2005). Touched by Indigo. Canada: Royal Ontario Museum http://eacharya.inflibnet.ac.in/data-server/eacharya-documents/53e0c6cbe413016f2344 36ed_INFIEP_8/85/ET/unit-4%20Lesson%2010.pdf (24.01.2018)
  • Wada, Yoshiko Iwamato (2012). Memory on Cloth: Shibori Now, New York: Kodansha International.
  • Wang, H. (2005). “Exploratory study of the origin of the ancient ıkat dyeing technique and its spread in china”, Journal of the Textile Institute, 105-108.
  • Wells, K. (1997). Fabric Dyeing & Printing. London: Conran Octupus Ltd.
  • Wells, K. (2013). “Invent-reinvent ıtajime' digital created board clamping”, The 2nd International Textiles and Costume Congress
There are 21 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language Turkish
Journal Section Araştırma Makaleler
Authors

Elif Kurtuldu 0000-0001-7118-9574

Leyla Yıldırım This is me

Publication Date January 28, 2019
Submission Date November 19, 2018
Acceptance Date February 4, 1920
Published in Issue Year 2019 Issue: 21

Cite

APA Kurtuldu, E., & Yıldırım, L. (2019). Farklı Kültürlerdeki Rezerve Boya/Baskı Teknikleri Üzerine Kavram ve Terimler. Yedi(21), 93-103. https://doi.org/10.17484/yedi.484984

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