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Tekstil Tasarımına Ekolojik Bir Yaklaşım: Lyocell Üzerine Doğal Boyama ve Eko Baskı

Year 2021, Issue: 26, 109 - 130, 09.07.2021
https://doi.org/10.17484/yedi.863763

Abstract

Bu araştırmada çevre dostu bir yaklaşımla tasarım, teknik ve estetiğin bir arada kullanıldığı deneysel bir çalışma yapılmıştır. Tekstil, tasarım ve moda sektörlerinde sürdürülebilir ekolojik çalışmalar konusunda artan farkındalıkla birlikte çeşitli doğal boya uygulamaları da güncel hale gelmiştir. Genel bir kanı olarak, doğal boya uygulamalarında daha iyi sonuçlar elde etmek için çoğunlukla yün ve ipek gibi protein esaslı liflerin kullanılması gerektiği düşünülmektedir. Gerçekleştirilen çalışmada ise çevre dostu, yapay ve selüloz esaslı rejenere bir lif olan Lyocell üzerine doğal boyama ve bitkileri şablon gibi kullanarak baskı uygulamaları yapılmıştır. Soğan kabuğu, zerdeçal, kök boya, nar kabuğu, endüstriyel bir yan ürün olan prina gibi doğal boyar madde kaynakları, potasyum alüminyum sülfat (şap), demir II sülfat, bakır II sülfat, kalay klorür gibi mordan maddeleri ile birlikte kullanılmıştır. Sistematik bir yaklaşımla en iyi uygulama koşulları ve sonuçlar belirlendikten sonra bitkilerle birlikte mümkün olan en düşük miktarlarda mordan maddeleri kullanılarak gayet net, canlı, keskin kenarlı ve etkileyici görsel efektler elde edilmiştir. Birbirinden tamamen farklı, özgün ve tekrar edilemeyen bu desenler giysi tasarımları şeklinde sunulmuştur.

References

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An Ecological Approach to Textile Design: Natural Dyeing and Eco Printing on Lyocell

Year 2021, Issue: 26, 109 - 130, 09.07.2021
https://doi.org/10.17484/yedi.863763

Abstract

In this research, an experimental study was conducted in which design, technique and aesthetics were combined with an environmentally friendly approach. With increasing awareness of sustainable ecological studies in the textile, design and fashion sectors, various natural dye applications have also become popular. It is usually thought that protein-based fibers such as wool and silk should be used mostly for better results in natural dye applications. In the study carried out, natural dyeing and printing applications using plants as a stencile were performed on Lyocell, an environmentally friendly, regenerated cellulosic man-made fiber. Sources of natural dyes such as onion skin, turmeric, madder, pomegranate peel, prina, an industrial by-product, were used in conjunction with mordants such as potassium aluminum sulfate (alum), iron II sulfate, copper II sulfate and tin chloride. Very clear, vivid, sharp-edged and impressive visual effects were generated by using the possible minimum amount of mordants with plants after determination of optimal application conditions and results through a systematic approach. These completely different, unique and unrepeatable patterns were presented as clothing designs.

References

  • Adeel, S., Ghaffar, A., Mustaan, M. A., Rafi, S. & Salman, M. (2018). Animal based natural dyes: A short review. In Yusuf, M. (Ed), Handbook of renewable materials for coloration and finishing (p. 41-74), USA: Scrivener Publishing, Wiley.
  • Adeel, S., Azeem, M., Iqbal, N., Rafi, S., Salman, M. & Zuber, M. (2018). Resurgence of natural dyes: Ideas and technologies for textile dyeing. In Shahid, M., Chen, G. and Tang, R. C. (Eds.), Handbook of textile coloration and finishing (p. 3-27), USA: Studıum Press LLC.
  • Adeel, S., Rehman, F. U., Rafi, S., Zia, K. M. & Zuber, M. (2019). Environmentally friendly plant-based natural dyes: Extraction methodology and applications. In Ozturk, M. and Hakeem, H. R. (Eds.), Plant and human health, volume 2: Phytochemistry and molecular aspects (p. 383-415), Switzerland: Springer.
  • Adeel, S., Amin, N., Arif, S., Azeem, M., Batool, F., Habib, N. and Rehman, F. U. (2020). Microwave-assisted eco-dyeing of bio mordanted silk fabric using cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum Verum) based yellow natural dye. Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy, 17, p. 1-8. doi: 10.1016/j.scp.2020.100306
  • Adeel, S., Amin, N., Salman, M., Usama, M. and Zahoor, A. F. (2020). An insight into herbal-based natural dyes: Isolation and applications. In Pandit, P., Ahmed, S., Singha, K. and Shrivastava,S. (Eds.), Recycling from waste in fashion and textiles: A sustainable and circular economic approach (p. 423-456), USA: Scrivener Publishing, Wiley.
  • Adeel, S., Amin, N., Ahmad, T., Batool, F. and Hassan, A. (2020). Sustainable isolation of natural dyes from plant wastes for textiles. In Pandit, P., Ahmed, S., Singha, K. and Shrivastava,S. (Eds.), Recycling from waste in fashion and textiles: A sustainable and circular economic approach (p. 363-390), USA: Scrivener Publishing, Wiley.
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  • Arğun, N. F., Çolak, S.M. and Kaygusuz, M. (2020). Ecological printing: Surface design of leathers tanned with different tanning materials. In İrkin R. (Ed.), Academıc studıes in engineering II (p. 216-234), Ankara: Gece Kitaplığı.
  • Aydoğan B., Atak, O., Bilge, G. ve Erdem, R., M. (2018). İpek kumaşların bitki yaprakları ile bölgesel desenlendirilmesi. Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü Dergisi, 22(2), s. 1058-1065. doi: 10.19113/sdufbed.88199
  • Alvin, M. & Wirawan, B. D. S. (2019). Teknik pewarnaan alam eco print daun ubi dengan penggunaan fiksator kapur, tawas dan tunjung. Jurnal Lıtbang Kota Pekalongan, 17, 1-5.
  • Akgümüş, D., Çay, A., Çelik, P. ve Eser, B. (2016). Tekstil ve konfeksiyon sektöründe sürdürülebilirlik ve geri dönüşüm olanakları. Tekstil ve Mühendis, 23(101), 43-60.
  • Ayvaz, K. M. ve Can, Ö. (2017). Tekstil ve modada sürdürülebilirlik. Akademia Doğa ve İnsan Bilimleri Dergisi, 3(1), 110-119.
  • Bilir, M. Z. (2018). Ekolojik boyama esaslı çok renkli yüzey tasarımı. yedi: Sanat, Tasarım ve Bilim Dergisi, (20), 63-73.
  • Basak, S., Chattopadhyay, S. K. & Samanta, K. K. (2014). Eco-friendly coloration and functionalization of textile using plant extracts. In Muthu, S. S. (Ed.), Roadmap to sustainable textiles and clothing: Environmental and social aspects of textiles and clothing supply chain (p. 263-287), Singapore: Springer.
  • Can, D. İ. (2016). Giyilebilir sanat’ta eko boyama-baskı teknikleri ve uygulamaları (Doktora tezi). Süleyman Demirel Üniversitesi Güzel Sanatlar Enstitüsü, Isparta.
  • Çermikli, M. A. (2019). Ekolojik baskılar ve tekstil yüzeylerde uygulanması (Yüksek lisans tezi). Mimar Sinan Güzel Sanatlar Üniversitesi Güzel Sanatlar Enstitüsü, İstanbul.
  • Dartono, F. A., Herlina, M. S. & Setyawan, S. (2018). Eksplorasi eco printing untuk produk sustainable fashion. Ornamen Jurnal Kriya Seni ISI Surakarta, 15(2), 118-130.
  • Elahi, A., Ghoranneviss, M. & Shahidi, S. (2016). Clinical surface modification process using the nitrogen plasma and its anti-bacterial efficiency. Journal of X-ray Science and Technology, 24(6), p. 893-900. doi:10.3233/XST-160599
  • Guesmi, A., Hamadi, N. B., Ladhari, N., Msaddek, M. and Sakli, F. (2013). First application of chlorophyll-a as biomordant: sonicator dyeing of wool with betanin dye. Journal of Cleaner Production, 39, p. 97-104. doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2012.08.029
  • Ghoranneviss, M., Anvari, A., Motaghi, Z., Shahidi, S., Šlamborová, I. and Wiener, J. (2011). Influence of plasma sputtering treatment on natural dyeing and antibacterial activity of wool fabrics. Progress in Organic Coatings, 70(4), p. 388-393. doi: 10.1016/j.porgcoat.2010.11.017
  • Ghoranneviss, M., Shahidi, S. and Wiener, J. (2015). Improving synthetic and natural dyeability of polyester fabrics by dielectric barrier discharge. Journal of Plastic Film & Sheeting, 31(3), p. 286-308. doi:10.1177/8756087914567013
  • Gürcüm, B. H., ve Yüksel, C., (2011). Moda sektörünü “yavaşlatan” eğilim: Eko moda ve moda'da sürdürülebilirlik. Akdeniz Sanat Dergisi, 4(8).
  • Haque, A., Farzana, N., Hussain, M., Smriti, S. A. & Siddiqa, F. (2018). Kinetic study of curcumin on modal fabric. Tekstilec, 61(1), 27-32.
  • Husna, F. (2016). Eksplorasi teknik eco dyeing dengan tanaman sebagai pewarna alam. E-Proceeding of Art & Design, 3(2), 280-293.
  • Hou, X., Chen, X., Cheng, Y., Xu, H., Chen, L. & Yang, Y. (2013). Dyeing and UV-protection properties of water extracts from orange peel. Journal of Cleaner Production, 52, p. 410-419. doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2013.03.004
  • Haji, A., Mehrizi, M. K. & Sharifzadeh, J. (2016). Dyeing of wool with aqueous extract of cotton pods improved by plasma treatment and chitosan: Optimization using response surface methodology. Fibers and Polymers, 17(9), p. 1480-1488. doi:10.1007/s12221-016-6457-0
  • Haji, A., Nasiriboroumand, M. & Qavamnia, S. S. (2018). Cotton dyeing and antibacterial finishing using agricultural waste by an eco-friendly process optimized by response surface methodology. Fibers and Polymers, 19(11), p. 2359-2364. doi:10.1007/s12221-018-8657-2
  • Haji, A. (2020a). Application of D‐optimal design in the analysis and modelling of dyeing of plasma‐treated wool with three natural dyes. Coloration Technology, 136(2), p. 137-146. doi:10.1111/cote.12445
  • Haji, A. (2020b). Natural dyeing of wool with henna and yarrow enhanced by plasma treatment and optimized with response surface methodology. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 111(4), p. 467-475. doi:10.1080/00405000.2019.1642710
  • Haji, A. & Naebe, M. (2020). Cleaner dyeing of textiles using plasma treatment and natural dyes: A review. Journal of Cleaner Production, 265, p. 1-13. doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.121866
  • Heriningsih, S., Mardiana, T. and Warsiki, A. Y. N. (2020). Community development training with eco-print training wukirsari village, sleman district, Indonesia. International Journal of Computer Networks and Communications Security, 8(4), 32-36.
  • Ikhsani, N. & Yulistiana, M. PSDM. (2020). Penerapan desain motif bunga pada scarf menggunakan teknik eco printing. Jurnal Tata Busana, 9(2), 57-64.
  • İşmal, Ö. E. ve Yıldırım, L. (2011). Tekstil tasarımında çevre dostu yaklaşımlar. Akdeniz Sanat Dergisi, 4(8), 9-13.
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There are 59 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language Turkish
Journal Section Araştırma Makaleler
Authors

Özge Özen 0000-0001-5145-6663

Özlenen Erdem İşmal 0000-0002-5428-6249

Publication Date July 9, 2021
Submission Date January 18, 2021
Acceptance Date June 21, 2021
Published in Issue Year 2021 Issue: 26

Cite

APA Özen, Ö., & Erdem İşmal, Ö. (2021). Tekstil Tasarımına Ekolojik Bir Yaklaşım: Lyocell Üzerine Doğal Boyama ve Eko Baskı. Yedi(26), 109-130. https://doi.org/10.17484/yedi.863763

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