Öz
Konvansiyonel moda endüstrisinin doğrusal üretim modeli yıkıcı çevresel etkileri olan “tüketim öncesi atıklar” üretmektedir. Bu çalışmada tüketici öncesi atık tiplerinden biri olan, tasarım geliştirme sürecinin kalıp kesim aşamasında ortaya çıkan ‘kesim’ atıklarına odaklanılmıştır. Buradan hareketle bu çalışmanın amacı Türkiye moda endüstrisinin kesim atıkları probleminin ve atık yönetim stratejilerinin belirlenmesidir. Türkiye'deki moda endüstrisi üzerine yapılan bir analiz aracılığı ile, çalışma sürdürülebilir bir tasarım ve üretim sisteminin oluşturulmasına yönelik imkanların ve sınırlamaların kapsamında “kesim atıkları” nı ele almaktadır. Bu çerçevede, Türkiye moda endüstrisinde kendi markası için üretim yapan 84 kadın giyim üreticisine uygulanan yarı yapılandırılmış bir anket, kesim atıkları probleminin derecesi ve olası atık yönetim stratejilerini önermek için değerlendirilmiştir. Veriler 2016 ilkbahar/yaz koleksiyonu hazırlama aşamasındaki üretim yöntemleri ve atık oranlarından elde edilmiştir. Bulgular atık probleminin şu anki durumunu ve moda endüstrisinin atığın çevresel etkileri ve atık yönetim stratejilerine yönelik farkındalık seviyesini göstermektedir.
Anahtar Kelimeler
Tüketici öncesi atıklar kesim atığı sürdürülebilir moda üretimi atık yönetim stratejisi
Kaynakça
- Mcdougall, F., White, P., Franke, M., & Hindle, P., 2001, “Integrated Solid Waste Management: a Life Cycle Inventory” (Second Edition b.). Blackwell Publishing.
- Ecochic Design Award, 2015, “Sourcing Textile Waste”, Ecochic Design Award http://www.ecochicdesignaward.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/3/files/2013/04/LEARN2014_Sourcing_ENG-07.pdf, Accesed 05.30.2015
- Strasser, S., 1999, “Waste and Want. A Social History of Trash”, New York: Metropolitan Books, Henry and Company.
- Binotto, C., & Payne, A., 2017, “The Poetics of Waste: Contemporary Fashion Practice in the Contexr of Wastefulness”, Fashion Practice, 9(1), 5-29.
- Naoko Tojo, B. K. (2012). Prevention of Textile Waste Material flows of textiles in three Nordic countries and suggestions on policy instruments. Copenhagen: Norden.
- Ecochic Design Award. (2015). Sourcing Textile Waste. Retrieved 05 30, 2015, from Ecochic Design Award:http://www.ecochicdesignaward.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/3/files/2013/04/LEARN2014_Sourcing_ENG-07.pdf
- Caulfield, K., 2009, January, “Discussion paper: Sources of Textile Waste in Australia”, Australia : Apical International Pty Ltd.
- Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H., 2015, “Zero Waste Fashion Design”, London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchil Books, Bloomsbury Publishing
- Rissanen, T., 2013, “Zero-Waste Fashion Design: A study at the intersection of cloth, fashion design and pattern cutting”, Doctor of Philosophy, University of Technology, Design, Sydney.
- Optitex North America. Marker Accessed: 06.10.2015 from Optitex: http://www.optitex.com/en/Marker-Making-Automated-software
- Cooklin, G., 1997, “Garment Technology for Fashion Designers”, Oxford: Blackwellsciences
- Abernathy, F. H., Dunlop, J. T., Hammond, J. H., & Weil, D., 1999, “A stitch in time. Lean retailing and the transformation of manufacturing - Lessons from the apparel and textile industries”, New York & Oxford: Oxford University Press.
- Rissanen, T. ,2008, Creating Fashion without the Creation of Fabric Waste. J. H. Connie Ulasewicz (Dü.), “Sustainable Fashion: Why Now? A conversation exploring issues, practices, and possibilities” , New York: Fairchild Books, pp: 184-206.
- Butekom, (2014). Testilde Çevre. ‘Tekstil Terbiye Sektöründe Temiz Üretim için Örnek Modellerin Oluşturulması’ projesi Teknolojik Değerlendirme Raporu. Butekom: Bursa.
- TUIK (2009), https://biruni.tuik.gov.tr/medas/?kn=67&locale=tr Altun Ş. (2016) Tekstil Üretim ve Kullanım Atıklarının, Geri Kazanımı, Çevresel ve Ekonomik Etkileri, Uşak Ticaret ve Sanayi Odası Raporu, Uşak.
- Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2015). Zero Waste Fashion Design. London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchil Books, Bloomsbury Publishing.
- Robert, J. (2011). Yield. April 15, 2017 tarihinde The Dowse Art Museum: http://dowse.org.nz/exhibitions/detail/yield adresinden alındı.
- Brown, S. (2010). Eco Fashion. London, United Kingdom: Laurence King Publishing Ltd.
- Fletcher, K., 2008, “Sustainable Fashion & Textiles” , London, UK: Earthscan Ltd.
- El-Haggar, S., 2010, “Sustainable Industrial Design and Waste Management Cradle-to-cradle for Sustainable Development” , USA: Elsevier Academic Press.
- Sustainable Landfill Working Group, 1999, “The Role and Operation of the Flushing Bioreactor” , Northampton, UK: Institue of Wastes Management.
- Forbes R. & McDougall, P. R., 2001, “Integrated Solid Waste Management: A lifecycle inventory” , Great Britain: Blackwell Science.
- European Comission, 2008, Directive 2008/98/EC on waste (Waste Framework Directive) Accessed: 09.29.2016, European Comission Environment:
- Watson, S., 2010, “Making Good Choices about Recycling and Reuse” , New York: The Rosen Publishing Group.
- McDonough, W., & Braungart, M., 2002, “Remaking the Way We Make Things Cradle to Cradle” , New York: North Point Press
Öz
The linear production model of the conventional fashion industry creates “pre-consumption waste” which has devastating environmental impacts. This study focuses on ‘Cut-and-sew waste’, a type of pre-consumption waste which occurs in the pattern cutting phase of the design development process. Thus, the aim of the study is to determine the scope of Turkish fashion industry’s cut-and-sew waste problem, and identify its waste management strategies. Through an analysis on Turkey’s fashion industry, the study addresses “cut-and-sew waste, through an analysis of the opportunities for, and limitations to, the creation of a sustainable design and production system to improve waste management. As a part of the study, a survey was conducted with women’s wear manufacturers producing their own brands in the Turkish fashion industry. A semi-structured questionnaire, responded to by 84 clothing manufacturers, identified the level of the cut-and sew waste problem, and possible waste management strategies are proposed. Data were collected regarding production methods, revealing waste rates within the preparation of the 2016 spring/summer collection. The findings illustrate the current state of the waste problem, and levels of awareness of the fashion industry towards the environmental effects of waste, and the need for waste management strategies.
Anahtar Kelimeler
Pre-consumption waste cut-and-sew waste sustainable fashion production waste management strategy
Kaynakça
- Mcdougall, F., White, P., Franke, M., & Hindle, P., 2001, “Integrated Solid Waste Management: a Life Cycle Inventory” (Second Edition b.). Blackwell Publishing.
- Ecochic Design Award, 2015, “Sourcing Textile Waste”, Ecochic Design Award http://www.ecochicdesignaward.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/3/files/2013/04/LEARN2014_Sourcing_ENG-07.pdf, Accesed 05.30.2015
- Strasser, S., 1999, “Waste and Want. A Social History of Trash”, New York: Metropolitan Books, Henry and Company.
- Binotto, C., & Payne, A., 2017, “The Poetics of Waste: Contemporary Fashion Practice in the Contexr of Wastefulness”, Fashion Practice, 9(1), 5-29.
- Naoko Tojo, B. K. (2012). Prevention of Textile Waste Material flows of textiles in three Nordic countries and suggestions on policy instruments. Copenhagen: Norden.
- Ecochic Design Award. (2015). Sourcing Textile Waste. Retrieved 05 30, 2015, from Ecochic Design Award:http://www.ecochicdesignaward.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/3/files/2013/04/LEARN2014_Sourcing_ENG-07.pdf
- Caulfield, K., 2009, January, “Discussion paper: Sources of Textile Waste in Australia”, Australia : Apical International Pty Ltd.
- Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H., 2015, “Zero Waste Fashion Design”, London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchil Books, Bloomsbury Publishing
- Rissanen, T., 2013, “Zero-Waste Fashion Design: A study at the intersection of cloth, fashion design and pattern cutting”, Doctor of Philosophy, University of Technology, Design, Sydney.
- Optitex North America. Marker Accessed: 06.10.2015 from Optitex: http://www.optitex.com/en/Marker-Making-Automated-software
- Cooklin, G., 1997, “Garment Technology for Fashion Designers”, Oxford: Blackwellsciences
- Abernathy, F. H., Dunlop, J. T., Hammond, J. H., & Weil, D., 1999, “A stitch in time. Lean retailing and the transformation of manufacturing - Lessons from the apparel and textile industries”, New York & Oxford: Oxford University Press.
- Rissanen, T. ,2008, Creating Fashion without the Creation of Fabric Waste. J. H. Connie Ulasewicz (Dü.), “Sustainable Fashion: Why Now? A conversation exploring issues, practices, and possibilities” , New York: Fairchild Books, pp: 184-206.
- Butekom, (2014). Testilde Çevre. ‘Tekstil Terbiye Sektöründe Temiz Üretim için Örnek Modellerin Oluşturulması’ projesi Teknolojik Değerlendirme Raporu. Butekom: Bursa.
- TUIK (2009), https://biruni.tuik.gov.tr/medas/?kn=67&locale=tr Altun Ş. (2016) Tekstil Üretim ve Kullanım Atıklarının, Geri Kazanımı, Çevresel ve Ekonomik Etkileri, Uşak Ticaret ve Sanayi Odası Raporu, Uşak.
- Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2015). Zero Waste Fashion Design. London, New York, UK, USA: Fairchil Books, Bloomsbury Publishing.
- Robert, J. (2011). Yield. April 15, 2017 tarihinde The Dowse Art Museum: http://dowse.org.nz/exhibitions/detail/yield adresinden alındı.
- Brown, S. (2010). Eco Fashion. London, United Kingdom: Laurence King Publishing Ltd.
- Fletcher, K., 2008, “Sustainable Fashion & Textiles” , London, UK: Earthscan Ltd.
- El-Haggar, S., 2010, “Sustainable Industrial Design and Waste Management Cradle-to-cradle for Sustainable Development” , USA: Elsevier Academic Press.
- Sustainable Landfill Working Group, 1999, “The Role and Operation of the Flushing Bioreactor” , Northampton, UK: Institue of Wastes Management.
- Forbes R. & McDougall, P. R., 2001, “Integrated Solid Waste Management: A lifecycle inventory” , Great Britain: Blackwell Science.
- European Comission, 2008, Directive 2008/98/EC on waste (Waste Framework Directive) Accessed: 09.29.2016, European Comission Environment:
- Watson, S., 2010, “Making Good Choices about Recycling and Reuse” , New York: The Rosen Publishing Group.
- McDonough, W., & Braungart, M., 2002, “Remaking the Way We Make Things Cradle to Cradle” , New York: North Point Press
Ayrıntılar
| Birincil Dil | İngilizce |
|---|---|
| Bölüm | Makaleler |
| Yazarlar | |
| Yayımlanma Tarihi | 26 Mart 2019 |
| Yayımlandığı Sayı | Yıl 2019 Cilt: 26 Sayı: 113 |