Rappel Mi Yoksa Daha Düsük Mü? Çapalari Temizleme Ve Tek Adimli Spor Tirmanislarindan Inis Tekniklerinin Kisa Bir Karsilastirmali Analizi

Yıl 2023, Cilt: 6 Sayı: 2, 69 - 84, 31.12.2023

Robert Chisnall

https://doi.org/10.36415/dagcilik.1395677

Öz

Öz
Alçaltma ve iple inme, dagcilarin tek adimli spor rotalarindan inerken kullandiklari baslica tekniklerdir. Her iki stratejinin de yararlari ve sakincalari tartisma konusu olmustur. Azalan yöntemlerin kisa bir karsilastirmali analizi, güvenlik, ekipman gereksinimleri ve bakimi, dönüstürme prosedürleri ve aksilik potansiyeline odaklanan on dört temel belirleyici kullanilarak sunulmaktadir. Her iki teknik de mükemmel degildir, ancak her ikisinin de baglama bagli olarak belirli avantajlari vardir. Bu analize dayali olarak öneriler sunulur. Sonuçlar, sinirli veya çeliskili bilgi kosullari altinda karar verme süreci için kritik olan dört degerlendirme sorusunu içermektedir.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Güvenlik, Spor Tırmanışı, İndirme, İple İnme, Sabit Tırmanma Çapaları

Etik Beyan

N/A

Destekleyen Kurum

N/A

Proje Numarası

N/A

Teşekkür

N/A

Rappel or Lower? A Brief Comparative Analysis of Techniques for Clearing Anchors and Descending from One-pitch Sport Climbs

Öz

Abstract
Lowering and rappelling are the principal techniques employed by climbers when descending from one-pitch sport routes. The benefits and drawbacks of both strategies have been subjects of controversy. A brief comparative analysis of descending methods is presented using fourteen principal determinants which focus on safety, equipment requirements and care, conversion procedures, and mishap potential. Neither technique is perfect but both have specific advantages depending on context. Recommendations are offered based on this analysis. The conclusions include four evaluative questions critical to the decision-making process under conditions of limited or conflicting information.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Safety, Sport Climbing, Lowering, Rappelling, Fixed Climbing Anchors

Proje Numarası

N/A

Kaynakça

• American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). (No date cited). ASCA New anchor guidelines. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://safeclimbing.org/new-anchor-guidelines.
• Baillie, R. (1982). Forces generated in a rappel. Explore Magazine Technical Series, 13.
• Bedogni, V., & Manes, A. (2011). Constitutive equation for the behaviour of a mountaineering rope under stretching during a climber’s fall. Proceedings of the 11th International Conference on the Mechanical
• Behaviour of Materials (ICM11), Procedia Engineering, 10, 3353-3358. https://doi:10.1016/j.proeng.2011.04.553. Blackshaw, A. (1965). Mountaineering: From hill walking to alpine climbing. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books, Ltd.
• Black Diamond®. (2016, September 7). QC lab: Retiring old ropes. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://www.blackdiamondequipmnt.coméen_CA/qc-lab-retiring-old-ropes.html.
• Blair, K.B., Custer, D.R.,Graham, J.M., & Okal., M.H. (2005). Analysis of fatigue failure in D-shaped carabiners. Sports Engineering, 8: 107–113.
• Bressan, G. (2002). Rope wear in climbing and in laboratory: Decay in dynamic performance of ropes due to wear. Commission for Materials and Techniques, Italian Alpine Club. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from Personal.strath.ac.uk/andrew.mclaren/Turin2002/CD%20congresso/ROPES%20WEAR%20.pdf.
• Caroom, E. (2022). An investigative report: 30 years of climbing accident data. Rock & Ice, 265, 54-58.
• Casewit, C.W., & Pownall, D. (1968). The mountaineering handbook: An invitation to climbing. New York: J.B. Lippincott Company.
• Cheyne, J.A., Solman, G.J.F., Carriere, J.S.A., & Smilek, D. (2009). Anatomy of an error: A bidirectional state model of task engagement/disengagement and attention-related errors. Cognition, 111(1), 98-113.
• Chisnall, R., ( Ed.). (1985). The O.R.C.A. rock climbing safety manual, Ontario, Canada: The Ontario Rock Climbing Association, Ministry of Tourism and Recreation.
• Chisnall, R.C. (2020). Analysing knots and ligatures: Tying principles, knot characteristics and structural changes. Forensic Science International, 313, 110272. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.forsciint.2020.110272.
• Ciavaldini, C., & Pearson, J. (2019). Safe and sensible: Lowering off sport climbs. Climber Magazine. Retrieved November 18, 2023 from https://www.climber.co.uk/training-how-to/safe-and-sensible-lowering-off-sport-climbs/.
• Climbing. (2013, July 28). Know the ropes: Prevent lowering accidents. Climbing. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://www.climbing.com/news/know-the-ropes-prevent-lowering-accidents/.
• Cordage Institute. (1991). Tech notes – elongation. Cordage News. Sept./Oct 1991.
• Cordage Institute. (2015). Cordage Institute Guideline CI 1401-15. Recommended safety practices for use of fiber rope. October 2015.
• DiMartino, T.J., & Sandwith, C.J. (2009). Proper care, maintenance, and inspection of climbing ropes to reduce degradation and help determine when to retire them. OCEANS 2009, 1-8. https://doi:10.23919/OCEANS.2009.5422306.
• Ellenberg, J. (2014). How not to be wrong : The power of mathematical thinking. United States of America: Penguin Books.
• Ellison, J. (2013). How to Rappel. Climbing 319: 64.
• Emri, I, Nikonov, A., Udovč, Zupančič, Flojančič, von Bernstorff, B.S., & Burnik, S. (2008). Time-dependent behavior of ropes under impact loading: A dynamic analysis. Sports Technology, 1, 4-5, 208-219. https://doi:10.1080/19346182.2008.9648475.
• European Standard EN 892: October 1996 E (British Standard BS EN 892: 1997), Mountaineering equipment – Dynamic mountaineering ropes – Safety requirements and test methods.
• Felix. (2014, August 19). Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb? The Great Outdoors Stack Exchange. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/lowering-off-from-anchors-vs-rappelling-after-a-climb.
• Ferber, P., (Ed.). (1974). Mountaineering: Freedom of the hills, Third Edition. Seattle, Washington: The Mountaineers.
• Feryok, Z. (2018). Fatigue life in damaged carabiners. ITRS presentation. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://itrsonline.org/papers/tproduct/294801796-399946666171-fatigue-life-in-damaged-carabiners.
• Filion, Jean-Marc. (1979). Belaying theory – An update. Corbeil, Ontario, Canada: A Chevres de Montagne Publication.
• Gergich, L., LarryGergich. (2017a). Question regarding rappelling vs. lowering. Reddit. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/70z0nj/question_regarding_rappelling_vs_lowering/?rdt=36919.
• Gergich, L., LarryGergich. (2017b). Don't lower through rap rings (Smith Rock). Reddit. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/7kn8h1/dont_lower_through_rap_rings_smith_rock/.
• Globerson, S., Levin, N., & Shtub, A. (1989). The impacts of breaks on forgetting when performing a repetitive task. IIE Transactions, 21(4), 376-381.
• Godino, J. (2018, November 17). Alpine tips. Rappel hardware pros and cons. Alpine Savvy. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/rappel-hardware-pros-and-cons.
• Harutyunyan, D., Milton, G.W., Dick, T.J., & Boyer, J. (2016) On ideal dynamic climbing ropes. Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers Part P: Journal of Sports Engineering and Technology. 2017; 231(2),136-143. https://doi.org/10.1177/1754337116653539
• Hess, R. (2012). Know the ropes: Rappelling. Fundamentals to save your life. The American Alpine Club. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling.
• Jenkins, O.C., & Matarić, M.J. (2002). Deriving action and behavior primitives from human motion data. Proceedings of 2002 IEEE/RSJ International Conference on Intelligent Robots and Systems (IROS), (2002) 2552-2556, https://doi:10.1109/IRDS.2002.1041654.
• Johnson, B. (2011, September 8). Lowering vs rappelling. Mountain Project. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107279145/lowering-vs-rappelling.
• JRZane. (2017). Question regarding rappelling vs. lowering. Reddit. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/70z0nj/question_regarding_rappelling_vs_lowering/?rdt=36919.
• Kahneman, D. (2011). Thinking, fast and slow. Doubleday Canada.
• Kahneman, D., Sibony, O., & Sunstein C.R. (2021). Noise: A flaw in human judgment. Boston, MA: Little Brown and Company.
• Kennedy, L. (2020, March 4). Rappelling vs lowering: A semi-scientific study (First published 11/8/15, updated 3/4/20). Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://leelkennedy.com/rappelling-vs-lowering/.
• Kirkpatrick, A. (2022, July 12). Stuck rappel ropes are dangerous—Here’s how to prevent them. Climbing. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-prevent-stuck-rappel-ropes/. (Originally published in Climbing, 2014, 327, 46-47.)
• Loughman, M. (1981). Learning to rock climb. San Francisco, California: Sierra Club Books.
• Marcus. (2023). Using rappel rings: Everything you need to know. Ascentionism. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://ascentionism.com/using-rappel-rings-everything-you-need-to-know/
• Martin, T. (1987). Rappelling, Edition II. Sterling, Kentucky: Search.
• Maynard, D.C., & Hakel, M.D. (1997). Effects of objective and subjective task complexity on performance. Human Performance, 10(4), 303-330.
• McLaren, A.J. (2006). Design and performance of ropes for climbing and sailing. Proc. IMechE Vol. 220 Part L: J. Materials and Applications. https://doi:10.1243/14644207JMDA75.
• Microys, H.F. (1977). Climbing ropes, Am. Alpine J., 21, 130-147.
• Microys, H. (1998). News from the safety committee: Findings on ropes. The Gazette, Autumn 1998, 9. Nembhard, D.A., & Osothsilp, N. (2002). Task complexity effect on between-individual leaning/forgetting ability. International J. of Industrial Economics, 29(5), 297-306.
• Obsidian. (2017). Question regarding rappelling vs. lowering. Reddit. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/70z0nj/question_regarding_rappelling_vs_lowering/?rdt=36919.
• Poborsky, M. (2013). Know the ropes: Lowering. Fundamentals to save your life. The American Alpine Club. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212427/Know-the-Ropes-Lowering. (Originally published in the 2013 edition of Accidents in North American Climbing, Vol. 10, 66(3), 8-18.)
• Paul, W. (1983). Determining rope safety. Response! Spring 198, 9-13.
• Pavier, M.J. (1998). Failure of climbing ropes resulting from multiple leader falls, Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference on the Engineering of Sport (Ed. S.J. Haake), pp. 271 - 279.
• Petzl®. (2006). Carabiner use and misuse. Rock & Ice, 153, 102.
• Petzl®. (2017). Examples of dangerous carabiner loading. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://www.petzl.com/CA/en/Professional/Examples-of-dangerous-carabiner-loading-.
• Reason, J. (1990). Human error. New York: Cambridge University Press.
• Richard, J. (2022, March 25). Know the ropes: The low down on lowering. Vertical Voyages®. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://verticalvoyages.com/climbing/know-the-ropes-the-low-down-on-lowering/.
• Schambron, T., & Uggowitzer, P.J. (2009). Effects of wear on static and dynamic failure loads of aluminum-based alloy climbing carabiners. Sports Engineering, 11, 85-91. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12283-008-0010-3.
• Schubert, P. (2000). About ageing of climbing ropes. Mountaineering + Climbing: The Journal of the UIAA, 2000, 3: 12-13.
• Sedláček, D., Roso, M., Viel, L., Perotto, N., Caven, B., Hasler, M., & Nachbauer, W. (2021). Ageing of climbing ropes with and without hydrophobic coating. Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers, Part P: Journal of Sports Engineering and Technology. https://doi.org/10.1177/17543371211062816.
• Shepherd, N. (2002). The complete guide to rope techniques: A comprehensive handbook for climbers. Guilford, CT: A Falcon Guide, Morris Book Publishing, LLC.
• Smith, M. (2005). An assessment of the effects of environmental conditions on dynamic climbing ropes. Final Year Thesis, University of Strathclyde, Glasgow.
• Squier, J. (2022, June 13). Don’t die rappelling off the rope ends: Use this easy closed system instead. Climbing. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://www.climbing.com/skills/rappel-eliminate-deaths-rope-safety-technique-closed-system/.
• Takeda, P., (Ed.). (2023). Data tables. Accidents in North American Climbing. Vol. 12, 75(4), 122-127.
• Thomas, G. (2019, January 30). The low down on lowering off when climbing. Retrieved November 18, 2023 from https://theoudooreducationblog.com/category/uncategorized.
• UIAA - Petzl® Foundation. (2013). Alpine skills: Summer. Canada: McCallum Printing Group Inc.
• Vihn, T.V., Tomizawa, T., Kudoh, S., & Suehiro, T. (2017). Knotting task execution based a hand-rope relation. Advanced Robotics, 31(11), 570-579, https://doi.org/10.1080/01691864.2017.1289119.
• Vogel, W., & Bocksch, F. (1996). Safety loss of mountaineering ropes by lowering cycles in toprope climbing” Institute of Mechanical Handling, University of Stuttgart, Presented at the conference on Nylon and Ropes, Turin, March 8-9, 2002. EUROSEIL, Deutsche Seilerzeitung, 1996, #3. (Also published in: Deutsche Seilerzeitung, 2-190.)
• Wexler, A. (1950). The theory of belaying. Am. Alpine J., 7(4), 379-405
• Wilkinson, F. (2019, April 9). Rock climbing: from ancient practice to Olympic sport. National Geographic. Retrieved November 18, 2023, from https://www.nationalgeographic.com/history/article/rock-climbing.