A Theoretical Analysis of Top-rope Climbing Anchors Focusing on Redundancy and Relative Failure Potential

Yıl 2024, Cilt: 7 Sayı: 1, 1 - 15, 03.07.2024

Robert Chisnall

https://doi.org/10.36415/dagcilik.1418873

Öz

With regard to top-rope setups using bolts, two versions of the cordelette, three versions of the quad, and a basic two-sling anchor setup are evaluated using a combinatoric analysis of component redundancy and failure potential. The two-sling setup offers complete active redundancy because each component is duplicated. Two loop knots are required to set up the quad and those knots have no backup. Similarly, the loop knot employed to create the cordelette’s master point of attachment is not redundant. Slings and cords utilized in top-rope anchors can be vulnerable to abrasion damage if the load shifts laterally during falls and lowers. Knots may be particularly susceptible to wear. The bulk and structure of anchoring knots are likely co-determinants of rock chafing and potential system failure. The characteristics of single and double versions of four loop knots are reviewed. Other setup characteristics and contextual factors are considered in this comparison.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Top-Rope Anchoring, Cordelette, Quad, Redundancy, Knot Abrasion

Top-rope Tirmanma Çapalarinin Teorik Analizi Yedeklilik Ve Göreceli Basarisizlik Potansiyeline Odaklanma

Öz

Civata kullanan üst halat kurulumlari ile ilgili olarak, kordeletin iki versiyonu, dörtlünün üç versiyonu ve temel iki askili ankraj kurulumu, bilesen fazlaligi ve ariza potansiyelinin birlestirici bir analizi kullanilarak degerlendirilir. Iki askili kurulum, her bilesen kopyalandigi için tam aktif yedeklilik sunar. Dörtlüyü kurmak için iki ilmek dügümü gereklidir ve bu dügümlerin yedegi yoktur. Benzer sekilde, kordelette'in ana baglanti noktasini olusturmak için kullanilan ilmek dügümü gereksiz degildir. Üst halat ankrajlarinda kullanilan sapanlar ve kordonlar, düsme ve alçalma sirasinda yükün yanal olarak kaymasi durumunda asinma hasarina karsi savunmasiz olabilir. Dügümler asinmaya özellikle duyarli olabilir. Ankraj dügümlerinin kütlesi ve yapisi, muhtemelen kaya sürtünmesinin ve potansiyel sistem arizasinin ortak belirleyicileridir. Dört ilmek dügümlerinin tek ve çift versiyonlarinin özellikleri gözden geçirilmistir. Bu karsilastirmada diger kurulum özellikleri ve baglamsal faktörler dikkate alinir.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Üst Halat Ankraji, Cordelette (Kordon), Dört, Artiklik, Dügüm Asinmasi

Kaynakça

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