MODA BEBEKLERİ VE MİNYATÜR HAUTE COUTURE SERGİLERİ

Haute couture giysilerin, insan ölçülerinin 1/3 oranında küçültülmüş prototiplerini giyen ve on sekizinci yüzyılda ‘modanın elçileri’ olarak tanımlanan moda bebekleri; 1945 yılında Théâtre de la Mode gezici sergisinin minyatür sahnesinde moda tasarımını dramatik sanatlar ve plastik sanatlarla birleştiren, haute couture zanaatını kültürel bir alana taşıyan öncü bir sergileme biçiminde yeniden ortaya çıkmışlardır. Bu araştırmada moda bebekleri ile minyatür haute couture sergileri düzenlemek fikrinden ilham alan Two Centuries of French Fashion Elegance (1949-1950), The House of Viktor & Rolf (2008), Le Petit Théâtre Dior (2014-2016) gezici sergileri incelenmektedir. Çalışmada, bu üç sergide tasarımcıların moda kreasyonlarını sanatsal biçimde nasıl sundukları anlatılmaktadır. Sergilerin yansıttıkları moda tarihi dönemlerini gerçek malzemeleri, teknikleri ile görsel olarak betimleyen belgeler olma niteliği kazandıklarını ve bu bağlamda moda bebeklerin birer maddi kültür öğesine dönüştüklerini açıklamak hedeflenmektedir. Minyatür haute couture sergileri konusunun incelenmesinin, Türkçe literatüre katkı sağlayacağı ve ulusal moda tasarım çalışmalarının sergilenme biçimlerine sanatsal bir bakış açısı kazandırabileceği düşünülmektedir.

Fashion dolls dressed in prototypes of clothes that were reduced to 1/3 of human dimensions, were described as ‘ambassadors of fashion’ in the eighteenth century. In 1945, at the Théâtre de la Mode, where clothes designed in miniature sizes were presented on fashion dolls, a collaboration with dramatic arts and plastic arts was established, thus moving the craft of haute couture to a cultural space. This article explored two Centuries of French Fashion Elegance (1949-1950), the House of Viktor & Rolf (2008), Le Petit Théâtre Dior (2014-2016), inspired by the idea of organizing miniature haute couture exhibitions with fashion dolls. The aim of the research is to examine the sample dolls and clothing’s selected from these exhibitions and to determine what functional or formal and cultural similarities or differences are between them and the fashion dolls of the eighteenth century. Fashion dolls and their clothes in these exhibitions are depicted with their periods, sizes, materials, techniques, clothing models, fabric types, colors, ornamentation techniques. It is believed that the research will contribute to the Turkish literature and give an artistic perspective on the ways in which national fashion design works are exhibited. As a result, it was determined that fashion dolls wearing miniature haute couture clothes reflect the fashion looks of the periods materials, production techniques, clothing models, fabrics, colors, and ornamental properties as well as in all the details. In this context, it has been determined that they document different fashion styles together, chronologically in concrete form, that fashion houses demonstrate their knowledge and skills in couture crafts, and that they also become part of international diplomacy as well as advertising and public relations work.