Comparison of Fiber and Yarn Quality Traits of Colored and Conventional Cotton (Gossypium hirsutum L.) Varieties
Abstract
Natural colored cotton has attracted increased attention as a sustainable alternative to traditional white cotton, as it eliminates the expensive and environmentally detrimental dying process. Nonetheless, the fiber and yarn traits of colored cotton are frequently reported to be inferior to conventional white cotton. This study compared the fiber traits and spinning efficacy of three naturally colored cotton types (light brown, dark brown, and green) with a conventional white cotton cultivar. Field trials were conducted at the Talat Demirören Research Center (GAP Agricultural Research Institute, Şanlıurfa, Turkey) during 2020. Fiber quality traits were assessed using the High-Volume Instrument (HVI) and the Advanced Fiber Information System (AFIS), while 30/1 Ne count yarns were spun on a ring spinning frame to test yarn quality in terms of evenness and imperfections. The colored cotton fibers revealed significantly different quality traits relative to white cotton. Specifically, green cotton fibers had the lowest HVI and AFIS quality metrics, while the dark brown cotton exhibited the highest fiber quality among the colored varieties. Yarns produced from light brown cotton had the lowest evenness and the highest levels of imperfection, whereas yarns derived from dark brown cotton demonstrated superior quality among the colored types. Overall, conventional white cotton produced much superior fiber and yarn quality compared to all colored cottons. These findings highlight the difficulties in producing colored cotton with competitive fiber traits. Nonetheless, naturally colored cotton might achieve broader adoption by suitable breeding and agronomic improvements. These improvements will provide a sustainable alternative for the textile sector without compromising quality.
Keywords
Colored Cotton, Traditional Cotton, HVI and AFIS, Yarn Uster Val
References
- Chae, Y., Lee, M., & Cho, G. (2011). Mechanical properties and tactile sensation of naturally colored organic cotton fabrics. Fibers and Polymers, 12(8), 1042–1047. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12221-011-1042-z
- Dickerson, D. K., Lane, E. F., & Rodriguez, D. F. (1999). Naturally colored cotton: Resistance to changes in color and durability when refurbished with selected laundry aids. California Agricultural Technology Institute. CATI Publication: 990901.
- Dutta, P., Rabbi, M., Sufian, M., & Mahjebin, S. (2022). Effects of textile dyeing effluent on the environment and its treatment: A review. Engineering and Applied Science Letters (EASL), 5, 1–17. https://doi.org/10.30538/psrp-easl2022.0080
- Fox, S. (1987). Naturally colored cotton. Spin Off Journal, All India Federation of Cotton Spinning Mills, 48–50. GAP Agricultural Research and Institute laboratory analysis. Şanlıurfa.2020
- Gülümser, T. (2016). Comparison of natural colored cotton and white cotton fabric in terms of dyehouse processes. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 26(3), 287–294.
- Gürel, A., Akdemir, H., & Karadayı, H. B. (2001). Possibilities of producing natural colored fiber cottons in Aegean Region conditions. Journal of Anadolu Aegean Agricultural Research Institute, 11(1), 56–70.
- Joshi, K. A., & Chirde, S. S. (1998). Color cotton research in Mahyco, India. In World Cotton Research Conference–2: New Frontiers in Cotton Research (pp. 186–187). Athens, Greece.
- Kang, S. Y., & Epps, H. H. (2009). Effect of scouring and enzyme treatment on moisture regain percentage of naturally colored cottons. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 100(7), 598–606. https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000802125113
- Karakan Günaydına, G., Palamutcu, S., Soydan, A. S., Yavaş, A., Avinc, O., & Demirtaş, M. (2020). Evaluation of fiber, yarn, and woven fabric properties of naturally colored and white Turkish organic cotton. The Journal of The Textile Institute, 111(10), 1436–1453. https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2019.1702611
- Lee, J. (1996). A new spin on naturally colored cottons. Agricultural Research Magazine, 44, 20–21.
