1587-1629 Yılları Arasında İran Safevi Dönemi Kumaş, Desen ve Motiflerinin Kadın Giyiminde Kimlik ve Statü Göstergesi

Öz

Giysi, temel korunma amacının yanında, sosyal bir ifade olarak kimlik ve statü belirtmek amacı ile de toplum içinde işlev göstermektedir. Giysi oluşumunu sağlayan en önemli öğenin kumaş olduğu varsayılmaktadır. Giysi tarihini incelediğimizde giysi oluşumunu sağlayan kumaşların hammadde, desen, motif, doku vb. özellikleri sayesinde var olduğu döneme dair bilgi verdiği görülmektedir. Giysilerin yapısal özellikleri, var oldukları zaman içerisinde toplumun yaşam tarzı, kimlik ve kültürel yapısına dair bilgi barındırmaktadır. Bu makale kapsamında, İran 1587-1629 yılları arasında I. Şah Abbas dönemine ait kumaş, desen ve motiflerin kadın giyimindeki etkileri ve kültürel gelişim süreci incelenmiştir. Bu dönemin, tekstil ticareti alanında köklü ilerlemelerin yaşandığı bir dönem olduğu bilinmektedir. Bu çalışmada, I. Şah Abbas dönemine ait olduğu bilinen Zerbaft, Kadife ve Kalemkâr (brokar) dokuma kumaşları incelenmiştir. Kumaş türlerinin üretiminde kullanılan ipek, altın, gümüş ve pamuk iplikleri, kumaş maliyetin belirleğiçi olduğu belirlenmiştir. Her kültürde farklı anlamlara sahip olan motifler, bu makale kapsamında, İran toplumuna ait toplumsal anlam çerçevesinde incelenmiştir. Altın çağ olarak nitelendirilen bu dönemin, kadın giyiminde kimlik ve statü kavramının etkenleri irdelenmiştir. Dönemin kumaş türleri toplumsal statü farklılıklarını nasıl görünür kılmıştır? Kumaş desenlerinde yer alan motifler dönemin hangi simgelerini taşımaktadır? I. Şah Abbas dönemi neden altın çağ olarak nitelendirilmiştir? Kumaş ve motif çeşitleri Safavi kadınları arasında sosyal statüyü nasıl yansıtmıştır? Bu sorular cevaplanmaya çalışılmıştır. Geçmişten günümüze kadar gelen bu ögeler/unsurlar kültürel aktarım misyönünda üstlendiği için, moda tarihinde göncel deyerlendirmelerde önem arzetmektedir. Bu çalışmada, analiz bölümünde yer alan kumaş görselleri, araştırmacı tarafından çevrim dışı ''National Museum of İran, Tehran'' müze arşivinden derlenmiştir. Araştırma kapsamı çerçevesinde minyatür ve kumaş görselleri, çevrim içi '' Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo'', ''David’s Samling'', ''The George Washington University Museum'', ''Textile As Art'' ve ''The Art Institute of Chicago'' müze koleksiyonlarından elde edilmiştir. Görseller içerdikleri semboller, temalar ve simgesel anlam katmanlarını ortaya çıkarmak amacıyla, ikonografik analiz ve tematik içerik çözümleme yöntemleriyle irdelenmiştir.

Anahtar Kelimeler

• I. Şah Abbas
• Kumaş
• Motif
• Kimlik
• Statü

Identity and Status Indicators in Women's Clothing through Fabrics, Patterns and Motifs in the Iranian Safavid Period (1587 -1629)

Öz

Besides its primary purpose of protection, clothing also functions within society as a social expression, signifying identity and status. It is assumed that the most important element in the creation of clothing is fabric. Examining the history of clothing reveals that the raw materials, patterns, motifs, textures, etc., of the fabrics that make up clothing provide information about the period in which it existed. The structural characteristics of clothing contain information about the lifestyle, identity, and cultural structure of the society in which it existed. This article examines the influence of fabrics, patterns, and motifs on women's clothing and the cultural development process in Iran during the reign of Shah Abbas I (1587-1629). This period is known to have witnessed significant advancements in the textile trade. In this study, Zerbaft, Velvet, and Kalemkâr (brocade) woven fabrics, known to date from the reign of Shah Abbas I, are examined. The silk, gold, silver, and cotton threads used in the production of these fabrics were identified as determining factors in fabric cost. Motifs, which have different meanings in every culture, are examined within the framework of their social meaning in Iranian society in this article. This study examines the factors influencing identity and status in women's clothing during the period described as the Golden Age. How did the fabric types of the era make social status differences visible? What symbols of the period did the motifs in the fabric patterns carry? Why is the reign of Shah Abbas I considered a Golden Age? How did the fabric and motif varieties reflect social status among Safavid women? These questions have been explored. Because these elements/components, which have come down from the past to the present, undertake a mission of cultural transmission, they are important in contemporary evaluations in the history of fashion. In this study, the fabric images included in the analysis section were compiled by the researcher from the offline archive of the "National Museum of Iran, Tehran". Within the scope of the research, miniature and fabric images were obtained from the online collections of "Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo", "David’s Samling", "The George Washington University Museum", "Textile As Art" and "The Art Institute of Chicago". The images were examined using iconographic analysis and thematic content analysis methods in order to reveal the symbols, themes, and layers of symbolic meaning they contain.

Anahtar Kelimeler

• Shah Abbas I
• Fabric
• Motif
• İdentity
• Status

Kaynakça

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