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What Can Be Learned from a Cookbook: An Analysis of Leman Cılızoğlu’s The Fundamental Methods and Application of Food and Cooking: Nutrition, Food, Rules of Good Manners

Year 2020, Volume: 40 Issue: 1, 365 - 396, 23.07.2020

Abstract

Books, photographs, manuscripts, legal documents, public records, letters, memoirs, diaries, and autobiographies are the primary resources used for examining and understanding the past. Apart from these, is it possible to understand the past through kitchens and what sorts of pots were used, the methods for preparing side dishes, the best way to fry potatoes, the manners about eating rice or the broad bean with meat, the proper way to prepare cranberry jam? And how can a cookbook that gives details about all of these things help a researcher? Thinking about the answers to these questions leads one to leave the grand narratives and classical resources to take a look at the kitchen as a part of everyday life, a mundane, unimportant space removed from ideology. Kitchens provide the opportunity to examine kitchenware, food, agriculture policies, food cultures, production and consumption, gender relations, and the changes in all of these. In such a context, cookbooks are understood as resources that document all of this throughout time and provide a basis through which to examine a past period. Driven by the above questions analyzed through Leman Cılızoğlu’s (1971) cookbook Yemek Pişirme Temel Metod ve Uygulama Beslenme Yemek Görgü Kuralları [The Fundamental Methods and Application of Food and Cooking: Nutrition, Food, Rules of Good Manners], this descriptive paper is structured over understanding and discussing what cookbooks can say by analyzing the book’s content, the structure of the recipes, the kitchen as a space for cooking and food, and the content of kitchens.

References

  • Acar Tek, N. & Sürücüoğlu, M. S. (2014). Basılmış olan ilk Türk yemek kitabı “Melceü’t Tabbahin”. Gazi Türkiyat, 14, 225–229.
  • Albala, K. (Ed.) (2013). Culinary history. In Routledge international handbook of food studies. Routledge.
  • Almanza, B. A., Byrd, K. S., Behnke, C., Ma, J., & Go., L. (2017). Cookbooks in U.S. history: How do they reflect food safety from 1896 to 2014. Appetite, 116, 599–609.
  • Appadurai, A. (1988). How to make a national cuisine: Cookbooks in contemprary India. Comparative Studies in Society and History, 30(1).
  • Avakian, A. V. (2005). Shish kebap Armenians? Food and the construction, and maintenance of ethnic and gender identities among Armenian American feminists. In A. V.
  • Avakian & B. Haber (Eds.), From Betty Crocker to feminist food studies (pp. 257–280). Unversity of Massachusestts Press.
  • Black, S. (2010). Recipe for cosmopolitanism. Frontiers: A Journal of Women Studies, 31(1).
  • Bower, A. L. (1997). Bound together: Recipes, lives, stories and readings. In. A. L. Bower (Ed.), Recipes for reading: Community, cookbooks, stories histories, Massachussets Press.
  • Bozdoğan, S. (2015). Modernizm ve ulus inşası. Metis.
  • Brownlie, D., Hewer, P., & Horne, S. (2005). Culinary tourism: An exploratory reading of contemporary representations of cooking. Consumption, Markets and Culture, 8(1), 7–26. http://dx.doi. org/10.1080/10253860500068937
  • Burke, P. (2014). Fransız tarih devrimi annales okulu (M. Küçük, çev.). Doğu Batı Yayınları.
  • Chen, Y. (2014). Recreating the Chinese American home through cookbook writing. Social Research: An International Quarterly, 81(2), 489–500.
  • Cılızoğlu Eryılmaz, L. (1971). Yemek pişirme temel metod ve uygulamaları beslenme yemek görgü kuralları (2. basım). Emel Matbaacılık.
  • Cooke, N. (2012). Canada’s food history through cookbooks. In M. Koç, J. Sumner, & A. Winson. (Eds.), Critical Perspectives in Food Studies. Oxford University Press.
  • Driver, E. (2015). Cookbooks as primary sources for writing history. Food, Culture and Society, 12(3), 257–274.
  • Emiroğlu, K. (2001). Gündelik hayatımızın tarihi. Dost. Epp, M. (2015). Eating across borders: Reading immigrant cookbooks. Historie Social/Social History, 48(6), 45–65.
  • Eser, G., & Orak, A. (2015). Cumhuriyet dönemi kadın eğitiminde bir atılım: Urfa Kız Enstitüsü. Uluslararası Sosyal Araştırmalar Dergisi, 8(41). http://www.sosyalarastirmalar.com/cilt8/sayi41_ pdf/2tarih_siyaset_uluslararasiiliskiler/eser_gulsah_abdullahorak.pdf
  • Gold, C. (2006). Danish cookbooks: Domesticity and national identity, 1616-1901. University of Washington Press.
  • Goody, J. (2013). Yemek, mutfak, sınıf. PinhanYayınları. Işın, P. M. (2018). Yemeğin kültürel tarihi. YKY.
  • Kayalı, K. (2006). Sunuş: Peter Burke. M. Küçük (çev.), Fransız Tarih Devrimi Annales Okulu içinde. Doğu Batı Yayınları. Köksal, O. (n.d.). Türkiye’de beslenme durumunun genel değerlendirmesi ve çözüm için öneriler. Toplum ve Hekim.
  • Mastrangelo, L. (2015). Community cookbooks: Sponsors of literacy and community identity. Community Literacy Journal, 10(1), 73–86. https://dx.doi.org/10.1353/clj.2015.0021
  • Mennel, S. (1985). All manners of food: Eating and taste in England and France from the Middle Ages to the Present. Blackwell.
  • Neuhaus, J. (1999). The way to a man’s heart: Gender roles, domestic ıdeology and cookbooks in the 1950’s. Journal of Social History, 32(3), 529–555.
  • Samancı, Ö. (2013). Food studies in Ottoman-Turkish historiography. In K. W. Claflin & P. Scholliers (Eds.), Writing food history: A global perspective. Berg.
  • Samancı, Ö. (2014). Yemek kitaplarında alaturka-alafranga ikiliği. Yemek ve Kültür, 35, 22–27.
  • Samancı, Ö. (2019). History of eating and drinking in the Ottoman empire and modern Turkey. In H. L. Meiselman (Ed.), Handbook of eating and drinking (pp. 1–21). Springer.
  • Tobias, S. M. (1998). Early American cookbooks as cultural artifacts. Papers on Language and Literature, 34(1), 3–18.
  • Tonner, A. (2008, March 28-30) Favourite cookbooks: Social and individual identity work. Notes from British Sociology Association Conference 2008. https://strathprints.strath.ac.uk/15866/
  • Wheaton, B. K. (1998). Finding real life in cookbooks: The adventures of a culinary historian. Humanities Research Group, 7. http://www.phaenex.uwindsor.ca/ojs/leddy/index.php/HRG/ article/view/22/27
  • Wheaton, B. K. (2014). Cookbooks as record for social history. In P. Freedman, J. Chaplin, & K. Albala (Eds), Food in time and place (pp. 276–295). University of California Press.
  • Wessell A. (2013). Cookbooks for making history: As sources for historians and as records of the past. M/C Journal, 16(3). http://journal.media-culture.org.au/index.php/mcjournal/article/view/717

Bir Yemek Kitabından Neler Öğrenilir? Leman Cılızoğlu’nun Yemek Pişirme Temel Metod ve Uygulama Beslenme Yemek Görgü Kuralları Kitabı Üzerinden Bir İnceleme

Year 2020, Volume: 40 Issue: 1, 365 - 396, 23.07.2020

Abstract

Kitaplar, fotoğraflar, yazmalar, resmi evrak, devlet kayıtları, mektuplar, anılar, günlükler ve otobiyografi geçmişi okumak ve anlamak için kullanılan temel kaynaklardır. Bütün bunların dışında geçmişi anlamak için bir mutfakta olması gereken tenceretava çeşidini, garnitür hazırlamanın metodlarını, iyi bir patates kızartmasının püf noktalarını, pilav yemenin görgü kurallarını ya da etli taze baklanın nasıl yapıldığını anlatan bir yemek kitabı bir araştırmacıya nasıl yardımcı olabilir, bir yemek kitabından neler öğrenilebilir? Bu sorunun cevabını düşünmek, geçmişi anlamak için başvurulan kaynakların ve büyük anlatıların dışına çıkıp gündelik hayatın sıradan, önemsiz ve ideolojiden uzak görünen bir alanı olarak mutfak üzerine düşünmeyi sağlar. Mutfak, gündelik hayatın bir parçası olarak ev ve mutfak, mutfak ekipmanı, gıda ve tarım politikaları, yemek ve yemek kültürleri, üretim ve tüketim, toplumsal cinsiyet ilişkileri ve tüm bunlardaki değişimi görmeye olanak verir. Yemek kitapları bu bağlamda, mutfağı kayıt altına alan ve geriye dönük olarak okumaya olanak veren kaynaklar olarak değerlendirilmektedir. Çıkış noktası yukarıdaki soru olan bu çalışmada 1971 yılında Leman Cılızoğlu tarafından yazılan Yemek Pişirme Temel Metod ve Uygulama Beslenme Yemek Görgü Kuralları adlı kitap incelenerek bir yemek kitabının içinde bulunan yemeklerin, tariflerin yapısının, gıdanın, yemek pişirilen mekân olarak mutfağın, mutfağın donanımının geçmiş hakkında neler söyleyebileceğine dair giriş niteliğinde betimleyici bir çalışma yapılandırılmıştır.

References

  • Acar Tek, N. & Sürücüoğlu, M. S. (2014). Basılmış olan ilk Türk yemek kitabı “Melceü’t Tabbahin”. Gazi Türkiyat, 14, 225–229.
  • Albala, K. (Ed.) (2013). Culinary history. In Routledge international handbook of food studies. Routledge.
  • Almanza, B. A., Byrd, K. S., Behnke, C., Ma, J., & Go., L. (2017). Cookbooks in U.S. history: How do they reflect food safety from 1896 to 2014. Appetite, 116, 599–609.
  • Appadurai, A. (1988). How to make a national cuisine: Cookbooks in contemprary India. Comparative Studies in Society and History, 30(1).
  • Avakian, A. V. (2005). Shish kebap Armenians? Food and the construction, and maintenance of ethnic and gender identities among Armenian American feminists. In A. V.
  • Avakian & B. Haber (Eds.), From Betty Crocker to feminist food studies (pp. 257–280). Unversity of Massachusestts Press.
  • Black, S. (2010). Recipe for cosmopolitanism. Frontiers: A Journal of Women Studies, 31(1).
  • Bower, A. L. (1997). Bound together: Recipes, lives, stories and readings. In. A. L. Bower (Ed.), Recipes for reading: Community, cookbooks, stories histories, Massachussets Press.
  • Bozdoğan, S. (2015). Modernizm ve ulus inşası. Metis.
  • Brownlie, D., Hewer, P., & Horne, S. (2005). Culinary tourism: An exploratory reading of contemporary representations of cooking. Consumption, Markets and Culture, 8(1), 7–26. http://dx.doi. org/10.1080/10253860500068937
  • Burke, P. (2014). Fransız tarih devrimi annales okulu (M. Küçük, çev.). Doğu Batı Yayınları.
  • Chen, Y. (2014). Recreating the Chinese American home through cookbook writing. Social Research: An International Quarterly, 81(2), 489–500.
  • Cılızoğlu Eryılmaz, L. (1971). Yemek pişirme temel metod ve uygulamaları beslenme yemek görgü kuralları (2. basım). Emel Matbaacılık.
  • Cooke, N. (2012). Canada’s food history through cookbooks. In M. Koç, J. Sumner, & A. Winson. (Eds.), Critical Perspectives in Food Studies. Oxford University Press.
  • Driver, E. (2015). Cookbooks as primary sources for writing history. Food, Culture and Society, 12(3), 257–274.
  • Emiroğlu, K. (2001). Gündelik hayatımızın tarihi. Dost. Epp, M. (2015). Eating across borders: Reading immigrant cookbooks. Historie Social/Social History, 48(6), 45–65.
  • Eser, G., & Orak, A. (2015). Cumhuriyet dönemi kadın eğitiminde bir atılım: Urfa Kız Enstitüsü. Uluslararası Sosyal Araştırmalar Dergisi, 8(41). http://www.sosyalarastirmalar.com/cilt8/sayi41_ pdf/2tarih_siyaset_uluslararasiiliskiler/eser_gulsah_abdullahorak.pdf
  • Gold, C. (2006). Danish cookbooks: Domesticity and national identity, 1616-1901. University of Washington Press.
  • Goody, J. (2013). Yemek, mutfak, sınıf. PinhanYayınları. Işın, P. M. (2018). Yemeğin kültürel tarihi. YKY.
  • Kayalı, K. (2006). Sunuş: Peter Burke. M. Küçük (çev.), Fransız Tarih Devrimi Annales Okulu içinde. Doğu Batı Yayınları. Köksal, O. (n.d.). Türkiye’de beslenme durumunun genel değerlendirmesi ve çözüm için öneriler. Toplum ve Hekim.
  • Mastrangelo, L. (2015). Community cookbooks: Sponsors of literacy and community identity. Community Literacy Journal, 10(1), 73–86. https://dx.doi.org/10.1353/clj.2015.0021
  • Mennel, S. (1985). All manners of food: Eating and taste in England and France from the Middle Ages to the Present. Blackwell.
  • Neuhaus, J. (1999). The way to a man’s heart: Gender roles, domestic ıdeology and cookbooks in the 1950’s. Journal of Social History, 32(3), 529–555.
  • Samancı, Ö. (2013). Food studies in Ottoman-Turkish historiography. In K. W. Claflin & P. Scholliers (Eds.), Writing food history: A global perspective. Berg.
  • Samancı, Ö. (2014). Yemek kitaplarında alaturka-alafranga ikiliği. Yemek ve Kültür, 35, 22–27.
  • Samancı, Ö. (2019). History of eating and drinking in the Ottoman empire and modern Turkey. In H. L. Meiselman (Ed.), Handbook of eating and drinking (pp. 1–21). Springer.
  • Tobias, S. M. (1998). Early American cookbooks as cultural artifacts. Papers on Language and Literature, 34(1), 3–18.
  • Tonner, A. (2008, March 28-30) Favourite cookbooks: Social and individual identity work. Notes from British Sociology Association Conference 2008. https://strathprints.strath.ac.uk/15866/
  • Wheaton, B. K. (1998). Finding real life in cookbooks: The adventures of a culinary historian. Humanities Research Group, 7. http://www.phaenex.uwindsor.ca/ojs/leddy/index.php/HRG/ article/view/22/27
  • Wheaton, B. K. (2014). Cookbooks as record for social history. In P. Freedman, J. Chaplin, & K. Albala (Eds), Food in time and place (pp. 276–295). University of California Press.
  • Wessell A. (2013). Cookbooks for making history: As sources for historians and as records of the past. M/C Journal, 16(3). http://journal.media-culture.org.au/index.php/mcjournal/article/view/717
There are 31 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language English
Subjects Sociology
Journal Section RESEARCH ARTICLES
Authors

Şengül İnce This is me 0000-0001-5277-9966

Publication Date July 23, 2020
Published in Issue Year 2020 Volume: 40 Issue: 1

Cite

APA İnce, Ş. (2020). What Can Be Learned from a Cookbook: An Analysis of Leman Cılızoğlu’s The Fundamental Methods and Application of Food and Cooking: Nutrition, Food, Rules of Good Manners. İstanbul University Journal of Sociology, 40(1), 365-396.
AMA İnce Ş. What Can Be Learned from a Cookbook: An Analysis of Leman Cılızoğlu’s The Fundamental Methods and Application of Food and Cooking: Nutrition, Food, Rules of Good Manners. İstanbul University Journal of Sociology. July 2020;40(1):365-396.
Chicago İnce, Şengül. “What Can Be Learned from a Cookbook: An Analysis of Leman Cılızoğlu’s The Fundamental Methods and Application of Food and Cooking: Nutrition, Food, Rules of Good Manners”. İstanbul University Journal of Sociology 40, no. 1 (July 2020): 365-96.
EndNote İnce Ş (July 1, 2020) What Can Be Learned from a Cookbook: An Analysis of Leman Cılızoğlu’s The Fundamental Methods and Application of Food and Cooking: Nutrition, Food, Rules of Good Manners. İstanbul University Journal of Sociology 40 1 365–396.
IEEE Ş. İnce, “What Can Be Learned from a Cookbook: An Analysis of Leman Cılızoğlu’s The Fundamental Methods and Application of Food and Cooking: Nutrition, Food, Rules of Good Manners”, İstanbul University Journal of Sociology, vol. 40, no. 1, pp. 365–396, 2020.
ISNAD İnce, Şengül. “What Can Be Learned from a Cookbook: An Analysis of Leman Cılızoğlu’s The Fundamental Methods and Application of Food and Cooking: Nutrition, Food, Rules of Good Manners”. İstanbul University Journal of Sociology 40/1 (July 2020), 365-396.
JAMA İnce Ş. What Can Be Learned from a Cookbook: An Analysis of Leman Cılızoğlu’s The Fundamental Methods and Application of Food and Cooking: Nutrition, Food, Rules of Good Manners. İstanbul University Journal of Sociology. 2020;40:365–396.
MLA İnce, Şengül. “What Can Be Learned from a Cookbook: An Analysis of Leman Cılızoğlu’s The Fundamental Methods and Application of Food and Cooking: Nutrition, Food, Rules of Good Manners”. İstanbul University Journal of Sociology, vol. 40, no. 1, 2020, pp. 365-96.
Vancouver İnce Ş. What Can Be Learned from a Cookbook: An Analysis of Leman Cılızoğlu’s The Fundamental Methods and Application of Food and Cooking: Nutrition, Food, Rules of Good Manners. İstanbul University Journal of Sociology. 2020;40(1):365-96.