2003; Darbre et al., 2002)

Öz

Selected Essential Oils in Cosmetic Emulsions: Process Oriented Stability Studies and Antimicrobial Activity

Abstract

Essential oils show self-preserving properties, which gives an opportunity for the cosmetic industry to reduce or even eliminate the application of synthetic preservatives like parabens, which are thought to be endocrine-disrupting compounds. The present study was focused on advancing of our understanding on antibacterial and antifungal properties of essential oils in cosmetic products. Especially, towards the development of practical and applicable aspects of abovementioned natural products. Presented procedures and results can be easily up-scaled and transferred to cosmetic industry. Results comprising procedure for preparation of a stable cosmetic emulsion using essential oils as natural preservatives, the evaluation of its stability by the turbidimetric method and estimation of preserving capabilities of essential oils including comparison with commonly used synthetic preservatives are presented in this present study. The stability evaluation of cosmetic emulsions revealed that the most stable emulsion is one comprising citrus oil (C= 2%) and vitamin E (C= 1.5%). The most unstable compositions are ones with rosemary oil (C= 2%), vitamin E (C= 1.5%) and citrus oil (C= 1%). Microbiological tests showed that the prepared emulsions consist of less than 10 CFU/g, which proves that the compositions are microbial clean and thus high quality.

These results confirm our hypotheses that essential oils can be effective natural preservatives in cosmetic formulations with concurrent stability and other features oriented on the possible commercial application.

Keywords

• Essential oils, cosmeceuticals, emulsions, natural preservatives

References

1. Bazylińska, U., Pietkiewicz, J., Saczko, J., Nattich-Rak, M., Rossowska, J., Garbiec, A., Wilk, K.A. (2012a)
2. Nanoemulsion-templated multilayer nanocapsules for cyanine-type photosensitizer delivery to human breast carcinoma cells, Eur. J. Pharm. Sci., 47, 406-420. Bazylińska, U., Skrzela, R., Piotrowski, M., Szczepanowicz, K., Warszyński, P., Wilk, K.A. (2012b) Influence of dicephalic ionic surfactant interactions with oppositely charged polyelectrolyte upon the in vitro dye release from oil core nanocapsules, Bioelectrochem., 87, 147-153.
3. Bazylińska, U., Skrzela, R., Szczepanowicz, K., Warszyński, P., Wilk, K.A. (2011) Novel approach to long sustained multilayer nanocapsules: influence of surfactant head groups and polyelectrolyte layer number on the release of hydrophobic compounds, Soft Matter, 7, 6113-6124.
4. Bueno J.G. (2015) Models of evaluation of antimicrobial activity of essential oils in vapour phase: a promising use in healthcare decontamination, Natural Volatiles & Essential Oils 2 (2) 16-29.
5. Burke, K.E. (2007) Interaction of vitamins C and E as better cosmeceuticals, Derm. Ther., 20, 314-321.
6. Burt, S. (2004) Essential oils: their antibacterial properties and potential applications in foods - a review, J. Food Microbiol., 94, 223-253.
7. Byford, J.R., Shaw, L.E., Drew, M.G., Pope, G.S., Sauer, M.J., Dabre, P.D. (2002) Oestrogenic activity of parabens in MCF7 human breast cancer cells, J. Steroid Biochem. Mol. Biol., 80, 49-60.
8. Calsamiglia, S., Busquet, M., Cardozo, P.W., Castillejos, L., Ferret, A. (2007) Essential oils as modifiers of rumen microbial fermentation, J. Dairy Sci., 90, 2580-2595.

9. Chaturvedi, H.C., Jain, M., Kidwai, N.R. (2007) Cloning of medicinal plants through tissue culture - a review, Ind. J. Exp. Biol., 45, 937-948.
10. Darbre, P.D., and Harvey, P.W. (2008) Paraben esters: review of recent studies of endocrine toxicity, absorption, esterase and human exposure, and discussion of potential human health risks, J. Appl. Toxicol., , 561-578.
11. Darbre, P.D., Byford, J.R., Shaw, L.E., Hall, S., Coldham, N.G., Pope, G.S., Sauer, M.J. (2003) Oestrogenic activity of benzylparaben, J. Appl. Toxicol., 23, 43-51.
12. Darbre, P.D., Byford, J.R., Shaw, L.E., Horton, R.A., Pope, G.S., Sauer, M.J. (2002) Oestrogenic activity of isobutylparaben in vitro and in vivo., J. Appl. Toxicol., 22, 219-226.
13. Deepak, J., Yogita, J., Meenakshi, J. (2013) Herbal Cosmeceuticals, Global R. Trad. Rep., 1, 7-11.
14. Dweck, A.C. (2003) Natural preservatives, Cosmet. Toiletries, 118, 45-50.
15. Edris, A.E., and Malone, C.F.R. (2012) Preferential solubilization behaviours and stability of some phenolic- bearing essential oils formulated in different microemulsion systems, Int. J. Cosm. Sci., 34, 441-450.
16. ElShafei, G., El-Said, M.M., Attiab, H.A.E., Mohammed, T.G.M. (2010) Environmentally friendly pesticides:
17. Essential oil-based w/o/w multiple emulsions for anti-fungal formulations, Ind. Crop Prod., 31, 99-106. Fryer, M.J. (1992) The antioxidant effects of thylakoid Vitamin E (α-tocopherol), Plant Cell Environ., 15, 381
18. Handa, O., Kokura, S., Adachi, S., Takagi, T., Naito, Y., Tanigawa, T. (2006) Methylparaben potentiates UV- induced damage of skin keratinocytes, Toxicology, 227, 62-72.
19. Jarzycka, A., Lewińska, A., Gancarz, R., Wilk, K.A. (2013) Assessment of extracts of Helichrysum arenarium,
20. Crataegus monogyna, Sambucus nigra in photoprotective UVA and UVB; photostability in cosmetic emulsions, J. Photochem. Photobiol. B: Biology, 128, 50-57. Kirchhof, M.G., and deGannes, G.C. (2013) The health controversies of parabens, Skin Therapy Letter, 18, 5
21. Kunicka-Styczyńska, A., Sikora, M., Kalemba, D. (2011) Lavender, tea tree and lemon oils as antimicrobials in washing liquids and soft body balms, Int. J. Cosm. Sci., 33, 53-61.
22. Maccioni, A.M., and Anchisi, C. (2002) Preservative systems containing essential oils in cosmetic products, Int. J. Cosm. Sci., 24, 53-59.
23. Maddocks-Jennings, W. (2004) Critical incident: idiosyncratic allergic reactions to essential oils, Complement. Ther. Nurs. Midwif., 10, 58-60.
24. Mulyaningsih, S., Sporer, F., Zimmermann, S., Reichling, J., Wink, M. (2010) Synergistic properties of the terpenoids aromadendrene and 1,8-cineole from the essential oil of Eucalyptus globulus against antibiotic- susceptible and antibiotic-resistant pathogens, Phytomedicine, 17, 1061-1066.
25. Muyima, N.Y.O., Zulu, G., Bhengu, T., Popplewell, D. (2002) The potential application of some novel essential oils as natural cosmetic preservatives in an aqueous cream formulation, Flavour Fragr. J., 17, 258-266.
26. Routledge, E.J., Parker, J., Odum, J., Ashby, J., Sumpter, J.P. (1998) Some Alkyl Hydroxy Benzoate
27. Preservatives (Parabens) Are Estrogenic, Toxicol. Appl. Pharmacol., 153, 12-19. Sheldon, A.T. (2005) Antiseptic "resistance": real or perceived threat, Clin. Infect. Dis., 40, 1650-1656.
28. Siemieniuk, A., Szałkowska-Pagowska, H., Lochyński, S., Piatkowski, K., Filipek, B., Krupińska, J., Czarnecki, R. Librowski, T., Białas, S. (1992a) Propranolol analogs containing natural monoterpene structures: Synthesis and pharmacological properties, Pol. J. Pharmacol. Pharm., 44, 579-593.
29. Siemieniuk, A., Szałkowska-Pagowska, H., Lochyński, S., Piatkowski, K., Filipek, B., Krupińska, J., Czarnecki, R., Librowski, T., Szymańska, I. (1992b) Synthesis and some pharmacological properties of 1,2-amino ethers with natural monoterpene structures, Pol. J. Pharmacol. Pharm., 44, 187-200.
30. Skočibušić, M., Bezić, N., Dunkić, V. (2006) Phytochemical composition and antimicrobial activities of the essential oils from Satureja subspicata Vis. growing in Croatia, Food Chem., 96, 20-28.
31. Varvaresou, A., Papageorgiou, S., Tsirivas, E., Protopapa, E., Kintziou, H., Kefala, V., Demetzos, C. (2009) Self- preserving cosmetics, Int. J. Cosm. Sci., 31, 163-175.
32. Wilk, K.A., Zielińska, K., Hamerska-Dudra, A., Jezierski, A. (2009) Biocompatible microemulsions of dicephalicaldonamide-type surfactants: formulation, structure and temperature influence, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 334, 87-95.
33. Yorgancioglu, A., and Bayramoglu, E.E. (2013) Production of cosmetic purpose collagen containing antimicrobial emulsion with certain essential oils, Ind. Crop Prod., 44 ,378-382.