Moğol İmparatorluğu’nda Tekstil Üretim Merkezleri

Year 2022, Volume: 5 Issue: 2, 317 - 326, 26.12.2022

Derya Coşkun , Anıl Yasin Oğuz

https://doi.org/10.48120/oad.1121988

Abstract

Moğol İmparatorluğunda bilhassa aristokrat sınıfının ipeğe verdiği önem dolayısıyla, Moğollar gerek sosyal gerek askeri gerekse iktisadî hayatlarının her biriminde bu metadan yapılmış olan ürünlerin kullanımına öncelik vermişlerdir. Bu durum zamanla zanaatkârları korumanın önemini ortaya koymuş, Moğollar savaşlar sırası ve sonrasında esirlerini genellikle zanaatkârlardan seçmek suretiyle onları özel koruma altına almışlardır. Moğolların ipekli kumaşlardan yapılan elbiselere göstermiş oldukları yoğun ilgi, saray imalathanelerinin açılmasına öncülük etmiş böylece fabrikasyon tarzı bir üretim sistemi Moğol İmparatorluğunda kendine yer edinmiştir. Bu bağlamda makale, Moğolların ipeğe ve ipekli kumaşlardan yapılan kıyafetlere verdikleri önem dolayısıyla zorunlu bir ihtiyaç olarak ortaya çıkan tekstil üretim merkezlerini, Moğolların zorunlu göçle oluşturdukları tekstil kolonilerini ve saray imalathanelerini konu edinmektedir.

Keywords

Moğol, Kumaş, İmalathane, Üretim, Zanaatkâr, Mongol, Cloth, Workshop, Manufacturing, Artisan

Textile Manufacturing Centres in Mongol Empire

Abstract

Due to the importance given to silk by the aristocratic class of the Mongol Empire, the Mongols gave priority to the use of products manufactured from this commodity in every unit of their social, military and economic life. This situation also created the importance of protecting the artisans, so the Mongols put their artisan captives under special protection during and after the battles or sieges. The intense interest of the Mongols in the clothes made of silk fabrics also led to the constituting of palace workshops, so a fabrication-style production system took its place in the Mongol Empire. In this context, the article deals with the textile manufacturing centres, which emerged as a necessity due to the importance the Mongols attach to silk and clothes made from silk fabrics, the textile colonies created by the Mongols through forced migration and the palace workshops.

Keywords

Mongol, Cloth, Workshop, Manufacturing, Artisan

References

• Al-ʿUmarī, Aḥmad Ibn-Yaḥyā Ibn-Faḍlallāh, Das mongolische Weltreich: Al-Umarī’s Darstellung d. mongol. Reiche in seinem Werk Masālik al-abṣār fī mamālik al-amṣār, (çev. Klaus Lech), Harrassowitz, Wiesbaden, 1968.
• Allsen, Thomas T., Commodity and Exchange in the Mongol Empire: A Cultural History of Islamic Textiles, Cambridge University Press, 1997.
• ———, “Population Movements in Mongol Eurasia”, Nomads as Agents of Cultural Change, (ed. Reuven Amitai, Michal Biran), University of Hawai’i Press, Honolulu, 2014, s. 119-52.
• Bretschneider, Medieval Researches From Eastern Asiatic Sources, C. 1, Trübner and Co. Ludgate Hill, London, 1888.
• Chü [Ju], Ch’ing-Yüan [Qingyuan], “Government Artisans of the Yüan Dynasty”, Chinese Social History: Translations of Selected Studies, (çev ve ed. E-Tu Zen Sun, John De Francis), Octagon Books, New York, 1966, s. 234-46.
• Coşkun, Derya, Serbedârî Devleti’nin Siyasî, İçtimaî ve İktisadî Tarihi (1336-1382), Atatürk Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü Doktora Tezi, 2016.
• Cüveynî, Alau’d-din Ata Melik, Ta’rih-i Cihângûşâ, C. 3, (ed. Mirza Muhammed ibn Abdu’l-vahhab Kazvînî), Luzac and Co., London, 1937.
• de Rachewiltz, Igor, “The Hsi-yu lu 西 遊 錄 by Yeh-lü Ch’u-ts’ai 耶 律 楚 材”, Monumenta Serica, S. 21 (1962), s. 1-128. El-Herevî, Seyf ibn Muhammad ibn Ya’kub, Târîhnâme-yi Herât, (ed. M. Zübeyr es-Sıddıkî), Baptist Mission Press, Calcutta, 1944.
• Emanov, A. G., Mejdu Polyarnoy Zvezdoy i Poludennım Solntsem: Kafa v Mirovoy Torgovle XIII-XV vekov, Aleteyya, Sankt-Peterburg, 2018.
• Evtyuhova, L. A., “İzdeliya Razliçnıh Remesel Kara-Koruma”, Drevnemongol’skie Goroda, (ed. S. V. Kiselev), İzdatel’stvo “Nauka”, Moskva, 1965, s. 274-97.
• Farquhar, David M., The Government of China Under Mongolian Rule (A Reference Guide), Franz Steiner Verlag, Stuttgart, 1990.
• Fedorov-Davıdov, G. A., Zolotoordınskie Goroda Povolj’ya, İzdatel’stvo Moskovskogo Universiteta, Moskva, 1994.
• Grekov, B. D. ve A. Yu. Yakubovskiy, Zolotaya Orda i Ee Padenie, İzdatel’stvo Akademii Nauk SSSR, Moskva-Leningrad, 1950.
• Haw, Stephen G., Marco Polo’s China: a Venetian in the Realm of Khubilai Khan, Routledge, London and New York, 2006.
• Hirth, Friedrich ve W. W. Rockhill, Chau Ju-Kua: His Work on the Chinese and Arab Trade in the Twelfth and Thirteenth Centuries, Entitled Chu-fan-chi, Printing Office of the Imperial Academy of Sciences, St. Petersburg, 1911.
• Juvaini, The History of World Conqueror, (çev. John Andrew Boyle), C. 2, Harvard University Press, Cambridge, Mass., 1958.
• Kiknadze, R. K., “İz İstorii Remeslennogo Proizvodstva (Karhane) v İrane XIII-XIV vv.”, Blijniy i Sredniy Vostok: Sbornik Statey, (ed. A. İ. Falina), İzdatel’stvo Vostoçnoy Literaturı, Moskva, 1962, s. 47-56.
• Kuhn, Dieter, “Some Notes Concerning the Textile Technology Pictured in the Kêng-chih-t’u”, Zeitschrift der Deutschen Morgenländischen Gesellschaft, C. 130, S. 2 (1980), s. 408-16.
• Kumekov, B. E. ve A. K. Muminov, İstoriya Kazahstana v Arabskih İstoçnikah (Sbornik Materialov, Otnosyaşçihsya k İstorii Zolotoy Ordu: İzvleçeniya iz Arabskih Soçineniy, Sobrannıe V. G. Tizengauzenom Pererabotannoe i Dopolnennoe İzdanie), C. I, Dayk-Press, Almatı, 2005.
• Lian, Song 宋濂, Yuanshi 元史, (ed. Yang Jialuo 楊家駱), Zhonghua Shuju 中華書局, Beijing, 1976.
• Liu, Xinru, The Silk Road in World History, Oxford University Press, New York, 2010.
• Lunde, Kristin Scheel, 13th – 14th Century Yuan and Mongol Silk-Gold Textiles: Transcultural Consumption, meaning and reception in the Mongol Empire and in Europe, Department of the History of Arts and Archaeology SOAS, London University, PhD, 2017.
• Mao, Huiwei, “Comparative Study of Nasij and Jin Duan zi of Mongol Period”, Asian Social Science, C. 16, S. 5 (2020), s. 13-18.
• Marco Polo, The Description of the World, (çev. Paul Pelliot ve A. C. Moule), C. 1, George Routledge and Sons Limited, London, 1938.
• Menandyan, H. A. ve N. G. Garsoyan, The Trade and Cities of Armenia in Relation to Ancient World Trade, Livraria Bertrand, Lisbon, 1965.
• Nedaşkovskiy, L. F., “Remeslo Zolotoy Ordı”, Problemı İstorii, Filologii, Kul’turı, C. 3, S. 41 (2013), s. 136-55.
• Needham, Joseph, Dieter Kuhn, Science and Civilisation in China (Chemistry and Chemical Technology)/(Textile Technology: Spinning and Reeling), C. 5/9, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 1988.
• Oğuz, Anıl Yasin, Çinli Zhang Dehui’in Prens Kubilay’ın Yaz Kampına Yolculuğu (1247-1248), Kitabevi Yayınları, İstanbul, 2021.
• Pelliot, Paul, Notes on Marco Polo (Ouvrage Posthume Publié par Louis Hambis), C. 1, Imprimerie Nationale, Paris, 1959.
• Petruşevskiy, İ. P., Zemledelie i Agrarnıe Otnoşeniya v İrane XIII-XIV vekov, İzdatel’stvo Akademii Nauk SSSR, Moskva-Leningrad, 1960.
• Poppe, N. N., Mongol’skiy Slovar’ Mukaddimat Al-Adab (Çast’ I-II) (Trudı İnstituta Vostokovedeniya XIV), İzdatel’stvo Akademii Nauk SSSR, Moskva-Leningrad, 1938.
• Raşid-Ad-Din, Sbornik Letopisey, (çev. A. K. Arends), C. 3, İzdatel’stvo Akademii Nauk SSSR, Moskva-Leningrad, 1946.
• ———, Sbornik Letopisey, (çev. Yu. P. Verhovskiy), C. 2, İzdatel’stvo Akademii Nauk SSSR, Moskva-Leningrad, 1960.
• Smirnova L. P., “Adjâ” ib Ad-Dunyâ (Çudesa Mira), İzdatel’skaya Firma “Vostoçnaya Literatura”, Moskva, 1993. Şahin, Uğur, Rasulid Hexaglot: The King’s Dictionary’nin Moğolca Söz Varlığı, Hacettepe Üniversitesi Türkiyat Araştırmaları Enstitüsü, Yüksek Lisans Tezi, 2017.
• Sung [Song], Ying-Hsing [Yingxing], Chinese Technology in the Seventeenth Century: T’ien-Kung K’ai-Wu, (çev. E-Tu Zen Sun, Shiou-Chuan Sun), Dover Publications, New York, 1997.
• Qi, Liu 劉祁, Guiqianzhi 歸潛志, Zhonghua shuju 中華書局, Beijing, 1983.
• van den Wyngaert, P. Anastasius, Sinica Franciscana I: Itinera et Relationes Fratrum Minorum Saeculi XIII et XIV, Quaracchi-Firenze, 1929.
• Waley, Arthur, The Travels of an Alchemist, George Routledge and Sons Ltd., Londra, 1931.
• Wang, Guowei, Menggu Shiliao Si Zhong 蒙古史料四種, Zhengzhong Shuju 正中書局, Taibei, 1975.
• Watt, James C. Y., Anne E. Wardwell, When Silk was Gold: Central Asian and Chinese Textiles, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 1998.
• Yakubovskiy, A. Yu., Altın Ordu ve Çöküşü, (çev. Hasan Eren), 2. Baskı, Milli Eğitim Basımevi, Ankara, 1976.
• Ye, Xinmin, “Yuan Shangdu de Yizhan 元上都的骚站”, Menggushi Yanjiu 蒙古史研究, S. 3 (1989), s. 80-87.
• Zhao, Feng, “Chinese Ancient Loom and Textile Types”, History of Science and Technology in China, C. 4 (A New Phase of Systematic Development of Scientific Theories in China), (ed. X. Jiang), Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd., Singapore, 2021, s. 205-55.
• ———, “Overview of Textile Technology in Ancient China”, History of Science and Technology in China, C. 4 (A New Phase of Systematic Development of Scientific Theories in China), (ed. X. Jiang), Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd., Singapore, 2021, s. 107-30.
• ———, “Silk Artistry of the Yuan Dynasty”, Chinese Silks, (ed. Dieter Kuhn), Yale University Press, New Haven, 2012, s. 327-68.